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100% Summit on Ixta!

After welcoming us to La Joya basecamp with a lovely warm sunset and delicious dinner from our Mexican host company, 17,160’ Ixtaccihuatl showed us that she is still a huge wild mountain. Out of the calm starry night sky, winds suddenly gusting 40-50mph forced us out of our sleeping bags and we scrambled to move our tents in the dark to the shelter of the old basecamp refugio. But our crew laughed it off as ‘adventure!’ And the next two days on the mountain showed everyone what a Mexican wilderness alpine experience can be. Complete with a spectacular high camp, billowing ash from our volcanic neighbor Popocatéptl, and the best sunset some of us have ever seen. 

On summit morning the crew climbed strong and right before sunrise, 100% of the team stood on Ixta’s summit. A new high point for the majority of the team!

We’re headed now to the colorful colonial city of Puebla, where we’ll enjoy a well earned rest day and prepare for 18,500’ Orizaba. 

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

The day that seemed like it would never come. The day the team has been training for for months. The day that starts it all, has finally arrived! We checked in with the rangers at the Parque Provincial Aconcagua, took a team photo, and started walking. It definitely felt good to get the legs moving after days of travel and sitting. The desert valley is beautiful. We walked along the riverside following the contours of the valley. After a few breaks and a juicy melon we arrived at Pampa de Lenas where we were greeted with snacks and juice. After our refreshments we put up camp as the wind picked up. The dust swirled around us.  One day in and we are covered in dirt and look as if we have been here longer. With tents up and filled with sleeping bags, we took an afternoon siesta before dinner. Dinner was magnificent! Tomato avocado salad, potatoes, bread, and carne asado. The salt burns the sun-kissed lips but it tastes so good. Bellies full, once again, we head off to bed happy.
Tomorrow brings another day walking in the Vacas Valley.

Buenos noches,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

It was great to be in Vinson Base last night... Quiet and peaceful (once the airplanes quit bringing climbers in, that is, sometime after 2 AM). We got going this morning at the usual VBC civilized hour of 9 AM. There was plenty to do in getting sorted, getting breakfast and getting some meeting time in with the other climbing guides and the ALE staff. Eventually we got tents down, packs loaded, and our ropes tied for glacier travel. We were first out of camp at 1:43 PM. Conditions were excellent and we made great time, arriving at the 9,000 ft "Low" Camp at 6:30, having traveled 5.6 miles. Sunburn was of more concern to us than frostbite today. The views of Vinson's giant and jagged northern neighbors- Shinn, Epperly and Gardner, were stupendous. Our camp went up quick and easy. Dinner went down without any hiccups and we were in bed by 11 PM. All were warned that the brilliant sunshine would warm the tents only until 3 AM. Then, although the sun won't set, it will go behind our mountain for about eight hours and life will be cold in the shadows. We'll reemerge from the tents at 11 AM to see what sort of day we have. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

We had an early wake up call this morning and were down in the hotel lobby by 4:30 am. The word was that the weather was cooperating and the flight would go as scheduled. We loaded up into the bus and headed out. We had a few more climbers to pickup on the way to the airport and then we went into the terminal for the standard boarding process. As we mentioned yesterday, there was going to be a stop en route to Union Glacier to re-fuel. This was the first time that this was done by our outfitter and it went very smoothly, only adding a little more time the flight. The group landed at Union Glacier around 2:00 pm local time. Now they are settled in and are enjoying their first night on the ice. The plan now is for the team to spend a day or two at Union Glacier and then fly to Vinson Basecamp where they will meet up with Dave Hahn. We might not get a dispatch out while the team is at Union Glacier, but will definitely dispatch once they start their climb. Best regards, RMI Guide Jeff Martin

Hello again everyone, Things are still going well here at Base Camp. After breakfast most of the climbers went on a hike to keep the blood flowing. We have had enough rest to get us ready for our summit push, now all we have to do is wait for the right weather pattern to show up. Still looks like it will be a few more days though. It's ironic that one of the hardest parts to climbing big mountains is figuring out how to stay relaxed while you wait. If the forecast holds the group should be headed uphill in a week or less. In the meantime we'll try to keep ourselves busy with the usual, card games, movies, horseshoes, and laying around in our tents. Keep your fingers crossed for us.

The One Step Closer Climb for organ donation was a project started by transplant surgeon Dr. Andrew Precht of Swedish Transplant in Seattle. The goal of the project was to put climb Mt. Rainier with a group of transplant recipients, organ donors, and transplant medical professionals including Dr. Andrew Precht and team members from Swedish Medical Transplant Program to promote organ and tissue donation awareness and demonstrate what is possible after a life-saving organ transplant. The expedition was lead by guides from RMI.

Namaste!

Hello from Kathmandu – where the whole team (and all of our bags!) have arrived.

We spent yesterday recuperating from the long flights and trying to make sense of that 12-hour time difference. Everyone stayed awake long enough for our first of many team dinners on the rooftop of Mezze. 

We had a full day today preparing for our trip – going over the schedule, checking all of our gear and picking up any last-minute items we needed from Thamel.

This afternoon, we hopped on the bus and explored Kathmandu. We started at one of the largest spherical stupas in the world – the sacred Boudhanath. We learned about the ancient art of Thangka and received blessings from the llama. Then we headed to other side of town where we held our water bottles close as we walked the steps to the top of Swayambhunath temple – also affectionately known as the Monkey Temple. I’m happy to report no monkey was able to snatch anything from this team.

We ended our day with a meal at OR2K in Thamel where we enjoyed huge platters of delicious hummus, falafel, and buttery naan. Trust me when I tell you, we will all sleep well tonight with full bellies and so much anticipation for what’s to come. 

It’s always lovely to spend a couple days in the vibrant, sound-filled city of Kathmandu but we are all looking forward to the peace of the Khumbu valley.

Tomorrow we’re off!

RMI Guides Jess Wedel, Sam Marjerison and team

 

Wednesday, June 16, 2021 - 9:49 pm PT

Good evening,

We woke today to snowflakes dancing their way to our tent making a pitter patter noise. It was a calm morning with fluffy snow. The clouds rolled in and out throughout breakfast making it a touch and go if we were going to pack up. But then as we finished our cereal and hot drinks, the snow dissipated and blue sky was showing. We broke down camp and hit the snowy trail. Heavy packs and heavy sleds weighed us down but we pushed forward. It was a tough day but we rolled into camp as more snow began to fall. Seeing the tents at 14,000' Camp as we crested the last hill was a marvelous sight. It might as well had been a cheeseburger and beer. Once the camp was established we all crawled into our new home and dried our gear. Some good ole Annie's Mac filled our tummies before we all went back to our sleeping bags for what we all hope to be a great night sleep. As the weather remains squirrely, we will decide what our agenda for tomorrow will be. Could be a back carry or could be a rest day.

Goodnight,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 12:56 PM PT This afternoon we received a dispatch from RMI Guide Zeb Blais on Forbidden Peak in Washington State's Cascade Pass. The team reported beautiful weather and a successful climb. They will spend some time on top before beginning their descent of the technical West Ridge. Congratulations climbers!

Greetings from the Suiz Andina in Malalcahuello! Today was our first day with skis on our feet and it was a beautiful one. We rode the lifts at Corralco, a ski area on the lower flanks of Volcan Lonquimay, a training ground for the U.S. Ski Team. Spring snow conditions and the sun shining through ominous clouds made for an ideal day of remembering how to ski. The vibes are super positive in our crew and we're psyched for what's to come. Stay tuned... Update 8:25 pm PT Setting out into uncertain weather today with Volcan Lonquimay as our optimistic feeling objective, I wasn't convinced we were going to see the top. After three thousand feet of skinning we transitioned to climbing mode, and as cool as it feels to have skis on your back, whippet in hand, crampons on your boots...those skis make great sails in a gusty north wind. We climbed the direct route on Lonquimay and despite having to battle the elements on the way up - wind, diminishing visibility, pelting snow and rime ice coating us head to toe... with a take-it-one-step-at-a-time mentality we managed to ski from the cumbre (summit). It was sort of the opposite of a carefree descent requiring precision whiteout navigation and a few other guide tricks, but before we knew it we were back in Malalcahuello sipping on the legendary pisco sours at the Suiz Andina...well earned. Thanks Lonquimay! RMI Guide Tyler Reid