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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Reflects on Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Mt. Everest

Dave Hahn here calling in from 21,300' on Mount Everest, Advanced Base Camp. A big day for us. We went as planned up on the Lhotse Face. We went to 23,500', very nearly to where our Camp 3 is gonna be, just short of that. A good day out on the Face. We broke Dan Johnson's altitude record. We didn't quite break Seth's or mine. But really nice to be climbing up on the Lhotse Face and a beautiful day. And from way up there, looking at Everest, the top of Everest and the plume blowing off, it was impossible not think of the day that Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu, two of our heroes, summitted the mountain 50 years ago in a big cloud and snow plume, in high winds. But pretty remarkable anniversary and neat to be around the mountain for that anniversary. We are definitely thinking of that incredible accomplishment 50 years ago, but also our own incredible accomplishment today. It felt really good getting up there and getting back down. And as well, a number of Sherpas, from various teams got together and fixed rope all the way to the South Col today. So rope is fixed to 8,000 meters and that is pretty much opening the door for summit bids. May is here and it's all gonna start happening. But we're pretty psyched with what we accomplished on this round. We're headed down in the morning and looking forward to the comforts of Base camp. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from Advanced Basecamp.

On The Map

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Way to GO Dan!! We are following your progress and send our prayers via west winds. Our best to all our Sherpa friends who helped us out at Base Camp Everest this year- we had a wonderful time. Mark- Khumbu Masters?

Posted by: Elsie Bemiss on 5/1/2013 at 6:38 pm

Congratulations Dan on your new milestone.  More to come!
I’m trying to keep track of Base Camp trips up and back.  What will be the roundtrip total? Five?

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/1/2013 at 5:31 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Unable to Summit Due to Lightning

The Four Day All Women's Climb August 6 - 9 was unable to summit due to weather.  RMI Guides Emma Lyddan, Hannah Smith and Lily Emerson turned the climbers around at 12,800' due to lightning, ice and rain. The teams returned safely back to Camp Muir. They will descend the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later this morning and conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Photos: Hannah Smith

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Great job everyone! Glad to hear the group is safe and sound. I love you Ashley!

Posted by: Brian Battaglia on 8/9/2022 at 10:36 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit!

The Four-Day teams reached the summit this morning at 5 am! RMI Guides Brent Okita and Christina Dale reported great route conditions and no winds on the summit. They are currently finishing their descent to Camp Muir for a quick break before packing up camp and starting their descent to Paradise in the summer sunshine.

Congrats team!

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Congratulations to everyone!  Special thank you to Lead Guide Christina, and to Trevor for all his help with me on the descent.  So very proud my son Christian Rainier Culbert summited a 2nd year in a row with RMI.  On an even more beautiful day this time when they got to see the sunrise from the summit.  I’ll always remember (rue?) the unique challenge of Disappointment Cleaver. Pre-dawn on the Ingraham Flats with Gibraltar Rock looming behind us in that early light, a canopy of stars just beginning to fade above us…a moment I will treasure.  Appreciated everything so much; RMI you are a credit to your stewardship of our beloved Mt. Rainier.

Posted by: Geoff Culbert on 8/8/2022 at 7:35 am


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Arrive at Basecamp

Tuesday, December 28, 2021 7:47 pm PT

When we met for breakfast at seven this morning, we were optimistic…about COVID test results, about weather in Antarctica and about a thousand moving parts and plans meshing perfectly.  Turns out our optimism was warranted; this was a great day.  We fired up the Gulfstream 7 at 12:30 PM and flew out of Patagonia headed South.  We watched out the windows as sea ice began to appear and then mountains and massive glaciers.  Our pilot slash climber extraordinaire, call sign -Sniggy- landed the plane ever so gently on the ice runway at Union Glacier just after 4 PM.  We got out, marveling at our new world, unloaded our gear and then watched pilots Kurt and Rob lift the G7 off the ice and back into the sky bound for Punta Arenas.

We boarded two ski equipped Twin Otters and took off just after 5 PM for Vinson Base Camp. It was a clear and sunny day, so we could see thousands of the jagged and angular peaks comprising the 200-mile-long Ellsworth Mountains.  We landed uphill at 7000 ft on the Branscomb Glacier a little before 6 PM.  We met Hannah, Scott and Forrest, the excellent ALE guides we’ll be partnering with for this trip.  With Superstars like Conrad Anker and Ed Viesturs on the team, there were plenty of outgoing climbers anxious for handshakes and pictures.  Then it was an easy and pleasant evening of getting settled in camp and sorted for moving up the mountain tomorrow.  We ate a fine dinner in the comfortable basecamp dining tent and attended to chores, some jogged in the snow around the 1/4-mile perimeter of basecamp for a little exercise.  All of us spent a fair bit of time with our mouths hanging open, just staring at gigantic and precipitous Mt. Vinson a few miles East of basecamp.  And then we called it a day.  But a great and memorable day.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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This is the best, informative, dispatch I’ve read in a while.  Please keep them coming; I am a fan.  As you keep moving forward it is a true inspiration to me.  Keep reaching for sky!

Posted by: Terri L. Jennings on 12/30/2021 at 6:36 am


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Enter Kilimanjaro National Park

Hello Everyone

We awoke early today and left behind the comforts of our beautiful lodge and have headed to the mountain towards the start of the climb. We hit the road shortly before 8am we drove along the rural country side for two hours to reach the park entrance. Most of the area surrounding Kilimanjaro has been cultivated and primarily used for coffee production and for a variety of other agriculture needs, but there are still some areas that have been untouched and resemble more of a savannah that Tanzania is known for.

The base of Kilimanjaro is forested and resembles a jungle or cloud forest. Traditionally it supports a large part of the banana production for this area. Lucky for us it was cloudy, which made for wonderful hiking conditions.

Once at the gate we had all of our gear weighed and divided into 20kg loads for our porters to carry before hitting the trail. Once everything was in order we started our climb slowly making our way up the winding trail. It was slightly busier than last week, but the team made good time.

The team just finished an amazing hot meal and are looking forward to a good night of sleep at a little bit of exercise.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew.

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Good luck to all of you - amazing journey! Cory - you better take a lot of pictures!

Posted by: Dennis Quimby on 9/14/2022 at 6:19 am

Have a lovely evening, mountaineers! Sending you good vibes and look forward to updates. We love you, Scottie! Be well.  Victoria and the girls.  Cheering and the crew on from Oak Park, Illinois

Posted by: Victoria on 9/14/2022 at 4:15 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Teams Turned Back by New Snow & Avalanche Danger

The Five Day Climb June 5 - 9 ascended to Camp Muir on Monday after their inital orientation and Mountaineering School days.  Yesterday they enjoyed some additional time working as a rope team and walking in crampons as they traveled above Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats.  They were able to explore more of the mountain and see a bit of the route.  Today they left Camp Muir hoping to reach the summit.  They traveled up to Ingraham Flats and then started to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver.  Unfortunately new snow and potential avalanche danger forced them to turn back at around 12,400'.  The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise.  They will conclude their program in Ashford later this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

the same thing happened to me in 1969 !!!! That was a long time ago. But over the years, I was successful 4 more times. I will never ever forget those great experiences, so do not give up. Book another climb as soon as possible. bill bussey

Posted by: bill bussey on 8/18/2021 at 11:59 am


Ecuador Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Acclimatize on Rucu Pichincha

Today we got second chair on the gondola and enjoyed a quiet morning on Rucu Pichincha.  For many this was the second highest altitude they had reached and a good hike to really get the acclimatization going.  Contrary to my previous trips and further proving the unreliability of weather forecasting in the tropics, we did not get rained on and it really did not threaten to rain on us at any point today.  Following the hike we enjoyed a team dinner at a favorite local Lebanese restaurant and tomorrow we are headed north towards Cayambe.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

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All the Best to you and your team Dustin!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/3/2021 at 3:15 am


RMI Team back in Kathmandu

The team has safely returned to Kathmandu. We left base camp early on the morning of Oct. 3rd and walked about 10 miles to get to our ride out. It was a cold and windy day, but we made good time. Once in our vehicle we drove for many hours across the beautiful Tibetan plateau. After several hours we reached the valley that leads to the border between Tibet and Nepal. It was a amazing to drive through this huge valley that descends over 10,000'. It had been a month since we had seen anything green and it overwhelmed our senses. We spent the night in Zhangmu and crossed the border in the morning and headed for Kathmandu. It was another long day but everyone was happy to be back to Kathmandu and it was quite the culture shock. After getting checked into our hotel we headed out for dinner where we ran into many of the climbers who were also on Cho Oyu and a few friends from other expeditions. It sounded like everyone had a tough climbing season. It was a great trip and certainly the summit would have made it better, but it's nice to be healthy and headed home after such tough weather and climbing conditions. Should be home soon.
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Mt. Rainier: Grom, Halliday & Four Day Teams Reach Summit

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Alex Halliday led their Four Day Climb Teams July 10 - 13, 2021 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams reached the crater rim at 5:10 am.  Skies were clear and winds were calm as the teams enjoyed some time on the summit.   They began their descent from the crater rim at 6:30 am.  Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise. 

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Way to goooooo!!!!!

Posted by: MaryBeth & DZ on 7/13/2021 at 1:39 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: First Rotation Complete

Our first rotation up the hill is completed. We came down the Icefall this morning in fresh falling snow, which muffled sound, concealed crevasses and greatly reduced traffic. Normally, after three nights acclimating at Camp One, we'd have gotten up a little earlier and come down a bit sooner in the morning, but daybreak at close to 20,000 ft was a bit different this time around. We had received a foot of snow in the past 24 hours and listened to avalanches running almost constantly down the steep faces of Nuptse and Everest West Shoulder. We weren't terribly anxious to run out and test our luck at finding the path through the icefall, but a few things began to work in our favor. Although no Sherpas were breaking trail from below on such a day, a few teams at Camp One were more anxious to get down than we were. We actually contemplated sitting another day to let things settle and improve, but once a few bigger teams had plowed a trail down and a short break in the storm materialized, we decided to capitalize and descend. We packed and closed our tents up tight and began walking toward Basecamp at around 9:30 AM. It wasn't a quick descent, we were quite careful stepping through the concealing powder and onto shaky ladders as the snowstorm returned to make things interesting. We were all stunned to see that the "horseshoe hotel" had fallen. This was a massive free-standing cube of glacier which we'd been passing under with a fair amount of trepidation. It came down all at once... luckily with no one in the vicinity, and we were amazed to see that the massive chunks of debris had fallen in several directions... But they hadn't bulldozed away the climbing route. The intervening crevasses had done their work and swallowed up a whole lot of hotel. The snows kept falling and we kept working our way down in a quiet cloud. Eventually we came out from under the clouds just as we reached the less hazardous features at the bottom of the Icefall. We weren't able to do everything we wanted on this rotation; it certainly would have been nice to have hiked up and touched ABC (Camp 2) but it would have been foolish in the snowstorm, so we mostly sat in our tents yesterday... But that also can lead to good acclimatization when the tents are high enough. Now we'll enjoy the relative comforts of Basecamp (although the snowstorm has seemed to follow us down) First; tables and chairs and food served up by the plateful... Later showers and shaves and the freedom of walking around without worry of crevasses and cliffs. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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