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Vinson Massif:  Hahn & Team Assemble in Punta Arenas

Happy Thanksgiving from Patagonia!  The RMI Vinson team has assembled, there are three of us.  Under normal circumstances, it is a little bit of a big deal to successfully negotiate and navigate through airlines and airports to reach Punta Arenas, Chile complete with climbing equipment, ready to take on Antarctica.  In this pandemic year, it is a really big deal to accomplish such a feat.  We’ve been testing constantly and jumping through bureaucratic hoops in order to travel safely internationally.  And now we are almost there.  Today, our gear will be collected and weighed and packed on the jet.  We hope to fly to the Ice tomorrow, but we will hear more later as to current weather and what is possible.  These last few days, Rajat and Mark and I have been walking the streets of Punta Arenas (in masks), flashing our “mobility passes” to get into restaurants, and tracking down last bits of essential gear.  We’ve had some good walk and talk sessions along the shores of Magellan’s Straight, gazing out at Tierra Del Fuego and a million wind-driven waves.  We hope that today is the end of our hotel based “testing period” to ensure nobody brings the virus to Antarctica. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Arrive at Vinson Base Camp

Pretty smooth day all around.  Considering that in other years it has taken weeks to get from Punta Arenas, to the Ice and then to Vinson, we are mighty lucky to have done it all in a day.  And for that, it wasn’t even a stressful day.  No angst about whether we were going to go or not… no waffling weather or closing window for flying.  It was just a day of green lights from the get go. 

We left the hotel at 6 AM and there wasn’t too much slack time out at the airport.  There were eighty of us, dressed in quite the variety of colorful cold weather gear and fancy boots.  We mingled and had mini reunions with old and less old acquaintances.  And then we trooped on out the gate to board our plane.   Things are different this year!  We used to ride in cargo and troop transports… this year we walked into a shiny Icelandic Air Boeing 757.  And it was nice and nobody was fighting over the mask mandates.  I have to say though, that a little bit of the cowboy feel to flying to Antarctica is now gone.  It was a lot like going from Seattle to Denver or Dallas.  Time to watch movies or sleep.  The pilot put the wheels down on Union Glacier’s ice runway at 12:45 PM just like he’d been doing it forever.   We bundled up and came down the stairs.  It was a remarkably fine day for November.  Our faces and fingers weren’t in danger of freezing as we milled about on the ice, snapping pictures.  Then we got on board a souped up van with great big wheels and were chauffeured over to Union Glacier Camp.  It was comfortable there and we were immediately warned not to get too comfortable.  The plan was for the three of us to be on the first airplane out to Vinson.  There was time for a tour of camp and a hot and hearty meal in the dining tent and then we loaded into a ski equipped Twin Otter for the hop out to Vinson.  After 45 minutes and another perfect landing - this time on the snow strip of the Branscomb Glacier at 7000 ft of elevation- we were walking around in our new and beautiful home at Vinson Base Camp.  This was around 4:15 PM.  The work began.  Lots of camp building and digging and sorting gear and getting settled.  We didn’t eat dinner until after 9 PM, which didn’t matter too much, the sun was quite strong making our dining tent comfortable.  Not all eighty passengers on the 757 were Vinson climbers, but there are six different guided groups out here as of today to kick off the first climbing season since the pandemic began.  Now it is 12:30 AM, still with good sun, but time for bed. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Reflects on Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Mt. Everest

Dave Hahn here calling in from 21,300' on Mount Everest, Advanced Base Camp. A big day for us. We went as planned up on the Lhotse Face. We went to 23,500', very nearly to where our Camp 3 is gonna be, just short of that. A good day out on the Face. We broke Dan Johnson's altitude record. We didn't quite break Seth's or mine. But really nice to be climbing up on the Lhotse Face and a beautiful day. And from way up there, looking at Everest, the top of Everest and the plume blowing off, it was impossible not think of the day that Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu, two of our heroes, summitted the mountain 50 years ago in a big cloud and snow plume, in high winds. But pretty remarkable anniversary and neat to be around the mountain for that anniversary. We are definitely thinking of that incredible accomplishment 50 years ago, but also our own incredible accomplishment today. It felt really good getting up there and getting back down. And as well, a number of Sherpas, from various teams got together and fixed rope all the way to the South Col today. So rope is fixed to 8,000 meters and that is pretty much opening the door for summit bids. May is here and it's all gonna start happening. But we're pretty psyched with what we accomplished on this round. We're headed down in the morning and looking forward to the comforts of Base camp. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from Advanced Basecamp.

On The Map

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Way to GO Dan!! We are following your progress and send our prayers via west winds. Our best to all our Sherpa friends who helped us out at Base Camp Everest this year- we had a wonderful time. Mark- Khumbu Masters?

Posted by: Elsie Bemiss on 5/1/2013 at 6:38 pm

Congratulations Dan on your new milestone.  More to come!
I’m trying to keep track of Base Camp trips up and back.  What will be the roundtrip total? Five?

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/1/2013 at 5:31 pm


Vinson Massif: Beginning the Expedition

This is Dave Hahn with the RMI Vinson Expedition, V1, we are starting the Vinson season. Myself, Seth Waterfall, Billy Nugent along with our climbers have had a run of good luck now. We flew from Punta Arenas last night. At quarter to midnight we left the ground after a day of stop and go, hoping for a flight and being stopped short earlier in the day. And then finally, late last night we departed Punta Arenas and arrived in Union Glacier around 5 am. Things were great there, it was nice and calm and our good luck continued. During the day the staff at ALE managed to get us all out to Vinson Basecamp and that is where we are sitting right now, on the Branscomb Glacier below Mt. Vinson. We are at about 7,000', it's partly cloudy and again calm. We are excited, after a few days in Torres del Paine, which was not that bad of a delay being in a National Park in Southern Chile, to come on the very next day and already be on the mountain. Everything is looking good now. More when we can, RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Vinson Basecamp.

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CH
Good luck and have fun.
Bruce

Posted by: Bruce2 on 11/21/2011 at 10:10 am

Hey Cheryl! We’re rooting for you here in Beaver Creek and will be thinking of you Wednesday, opening day!!  See you soon!  xo, lin

Posted by: Lin Bercher on 11/21/2011 at 9:29 am


Ecuador Volcanoes: Cotopaxi Summit!

Good morning,

I am happy to report that on a beautiful morning the team made the summit of Cotopaxi.  Sunny skies and light winds made for great climbing conditions.  The local guides have departed and the team is headed back to Quito for an afternoon of relaxation and a celebration dinner.  This trip has thrown some curveballs, but I'm proud of the team for sticking with it and being flexible along the way.  Everyone, regardless of whether they went to the summit of Cayambe or Cotopaxi did a really fine job pushing themselves towards goals they have worked so hard for.  Cheers to this team!

Thank you for following along with our blog and please continue following the final RMI Ecuador trip of the season which starts next week!

RMI Guides Dustin, Avery and Team!

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Awesome!! Sunny Summit!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/4/2022 at 3:45 am

Congrats all! Great to see that mountain summited

Posted by: Sam on 2/3/2022 at 12:50 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Top Out Early

The Four Day Climb August 5 - 8, 2022 led by RMI Guides Alan Davis and Matias Francis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The teams reported windy conditions.  They left the crater rim around 5:20 am and as of 7 am were at the top of Disappointment Cleaver on their descent.  Once back at Camp Muir the teams will have a quick break before continuing the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise.  They will then conclude their program this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Congratulations! A question: I wonder if the trip leaders know what the winds were like on summit day (Mon Aug 8)? I too submitted (independently with my climbing partner) and we experienced persistent winds throughout but also gusts at Disappointment Cleaver that felt quite stiff. Might your own team(s) have a sense of how high the winds actually were (as opposed to forecast)?  Thank you,

Posted by: Larissa M on 8/10/2022 at 3:11 pm

Congratulations to the whole team for summiting, but I would like to give a special “Bravo” to my wonderful husband who reach the summit!! So proud of you Stéphane!! You did it!!!!

Posted by: Annie Quinal on 8/8/2022 at 8:01 am


Vinson Massif: Dave & Team Carry to High Camp

It is a quarter after one in the morning in the Ellsworth Mountains of Antarctica. We made our carry of summit supplies to Vinson high camp today. It all went quite well. We made it up there in under six hours, arriving just before 8 PM. Two-and-a-half hours later we were back down the fixed ropes and thirty-five hundred feet lower in camp one. These are late days, but we are simply trying to use the best sun of the day. In such cold temperatures it doesn't make sense to do otherwise. Our storm is gone, but there is still a lot of high cloud in the area. We were warm enough going up the fixed ropes but met with a nagging four mile per hour breeze on the less steep slopes before high camp and that allowed us to fully appreciate the ambient temperature (forecast to be -24 C today with about -35 C at the summit) It was all good training for the bigger and harder days which will follow. Climbing out of the Branscomb valley, the team got to look out upon the endless world of ice to our west today. It is a stunning and magnificent view, and virtually impossible to tell where ice ends and sky begins. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Fantastic Li! You’re getting closer & closer! Love Dean

Posted by: Dean on 12/9/2011 at 6:11 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Cayambe Summit!

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Jason Thompson checked in this morning with the news that their team reached the summit of Cayambe (18,997') at 7:10 a.m. local time today. The team left the hut on Cayambe (15,330') just after midnight with a low cloud layer above keeping them warm to about 17,000'. The team climbed well with some steep and challenging conditions on the final approach to the summit. They reported mostly cloudy skies and knee to ankle deep snow in places. Unfortunately, the cloud cover obscured their views from the summit but they did take some time to celebrate their accomplishment before starting the descent. Everyone is back to the Cayambe hut. They are planning to pack up, load the vehicles and make their way down the mountain. They will stop for lunch and then continue to Chilcabamba Eco Lodge where they will stay and rest the next two nights. Congratulations to the team!
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What a great achievement! Congrats to my brother Charlie and the whole team!! IT is awesome to see photos and get these updates.

Posted by: Annmarie Eldering on 12/7/2011 at 7:52 am

Papa - Everyone looks great.  Hope your climbs are all they would be.  Keep up the great work!  We miss you.  Michael and Gracie

Posted by: michael and gracie on 12/6/2011 at 6:25 pm


RMI Team back in Kathmandu

The team has safely returned to Kathmandu. We left base camp early on the morning of Oct. 3rd and walked about 10 miles to get to our ride out. It was a cold and windy day, but we made good time. Once in our vehicle we drove for many hours across the beautiful Tibetan plateau. After several hours we reached the valley that leads to the border between Tibet and Nepal. It was a amazing to drive through this huge valley that descends over 10,000'. It had been a month since we had seen anything green and it overwhelmed our senses. We spent the night in Zhangmu and crossed the border in the morning and headed for Kathmandu. It was another long day but everyone was happy to be back to Kathmandu and it was quite the culture shock. After getting checked into our hotel we headed out for dinner where we ran into many of the climbers who were also on Cho Oyu and a few friends from other expeditions. It sounded like everyone had a tough climbing season. It was a great trip and certainly the summit would have made it better, but it's nice to be healthy and headed home after such tough weather and climbing conditions. Should be home soon.
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Mt. Rainier: June 16th Update

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Dan Windham led the Four Day Summit Climb teams to 13,500' this morning before deciding to turn around due to deteriorating weather conditions and increased winds. The teams checked in from Ingraham Flats around 7:30 a.m. on their descent as the rain continued to fall. They returned to Camp Muir to repack and hopefully dry out a bit. At 10:00 a.m. they began their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp in a few hours.
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A message from Miami- To my husband Joe- I love you and wish you a Happy Fathers Day! - My thoughts and prayers are with all of you. Happy Day and Weather to you all. Be safe. Evelyn

Posted by: Evelyn on 6/17/2012 at 7:06 am

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