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June 20, 1014 - 10:00 pm PT
We woke up this morning when the sun hit the tent. It was a cold morning here on
Denali so it took us awhile to get out and about. We were on a rest/acclimatization day so we ate, drank, and took care of some chores to get us ready for our cache day up high tomorrow. Our plan is to carry some gear to somewhere between here and 17,000' camp. The actual cache spot will depend on how well we are feeling and what the weather gives us.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
With a very unfavorable weather forecast ahead of us, we decided to stay inside on the 15th and have a skills session with knots, hitches, carabiners, and other climbing gear. The 16th brought a better chance of climbable weather so we set off from the Lake Ann Trailhead armed with lightweight daypacks. We were able to approach the climb and reach our goal of climbing to the top of the
Fisher Chimneys. We experienced wet-to-very wet trail and rock conditions, and only got rained on for a few sections of our climb. We then reversed our route and made it back to the trailhead just before the heavy rain started falling. It was a solid 12-hour day of climbing and hiking and we were happy to be back in time to beat the rain. And also in time for a late pizza dinner! The final push up the summit pyramid wasn’t in the cards with the hand we were dealt by the weather, but we were able to climb the bulk of the route and maximize the use of our time in the mountains.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hello world,
Some good hard rewarding work went into our day today. We pushed our bodies up to a new altitude of 16,300’, with acclimatization in mind, as well as a goal to access some glaciated terrain to get our crampon and rope skills game on. We did a lot of breathing and a lot of moving around after an early start, with the intention of getting back to Base Camp by mid afternoon. A siesta was certainly in order because tonight, finally, we’re going for a summit (weather permitting)!! We’re excited the time has finally come, a week into our Peruvian adventure, that we can put the hard work and acclimatization to work.
Ishinca has an 18,143’ summit and the route looked like a bunch of fun from our training site today. We’re getting up in the middle of the night tonight, but we’ll check in tomorrow and tell you all about it. For now, a hot dinner is on the table as usual, so we’re out!
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘No tengo hambre’
We had a relaxing day in historic Puebla yesterday. The Team spent the day walking around the markets and taking in the beautiful buildings and cathedrals. The city was founded in 1531 and is a busy commercial hub filled with murals, colorful buildings, delicious food and several ornate cathedrals.
Today we are headed East through rolling Mexican farm land to the small village of Tlachichuca near the base of
Pico de Orizaba. After we pack our gear, 4x4 trucks drive us up to Piedra Grande hut at 14,000’. From there we will get ready for a summit bid tomorrow.
The weather looks promising and recent snowfall should make for great climbing. Everyone is doing well and looking forward to the main objective, 18,491’ Orizaba.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Hi, this is Mike with the
Mexico Volcanoes program. Everyone arrived yesterday with all our bags and we spent the night in Mexico city. We loaded our vehicle this morning and toward the mountains. We had a nice, casual day today. Lots of rain and thunderstorms kept us from hiking La Malinche. The group is hanging out watching some football and we are going to sleep tonight around 10,000', the former training center for the Mexican Olympic team. We'll be heading over to Ixta tomorrow. We will be checking in every day from here on out. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Amazingly, most of the team actually got some sleep last night before I made my rounds to wake folks up just past 11:00pm. The night sky was amazingly clear and calm, and though the temps at camp were below freezing it felt a lot warmer than I had expected.
Our 7 1/2 hour ascent covered a variety of terrain from scree to rock, and got colder as we gained altitude. In fact, all the Camelback hydration systems people insisted on bringing froze and became useless until low on our descent.
What a big mountain. Our team couldn't believe that our summit bid could go on for so long. But, at about 7:30 we finally reached the summit,
Uhuru Peak at 19,340'. What was most impressive was that everyone summitted! The team just put their heads down, pressure breathed and got it done. But a big thanks needs to go out to our local guides: James, Freddy, Peter, Patrick, Naiman and Venance. They worked tirelessly to help the team achieve this dream.
Following our summit, we were greeted with a nice lunch upon arriving back at camp, then there was the five-hour hike to our next camp at about 10,000' Mweka Camp. Sore feet and knees were casualties of the descent, but it sure feels good to be down here now. Especially after another great meal prepared by Tosha, our chef.
The eyelids are growing heavy, so I'll bid you all good night.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
Greetings from Huaraz!
Do you like movies? Recognize the Paramount Pictures' logo? Well... that mountain exists, and we're off to climb it!!!
After a day of international traveling, and a night in Peru's capital, Lima, we drove north through the Pacific coastal desert, then through a section of Peruvian farmland where chili peppers are getting dried in the sun and finally, over the 14,000-foot pass of Conococha to arrive in Huaraz, the gateway of the "Callejon de Huaylas" Valley. This is where the
Cordillera Blanca Range extends for nearly 100 miles. We checked in to our hotel, and a clear evening provided a great view of the mountains to the Northeast form the terraces of our rooms in the Hotel Andino, an incredible facility, where after four years, we're part of the family now.
We're off to bed, excited for our acclimatization hike tomorrow. Stay tuned as we start our expedition.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
June 1,2016 - 11:21 p.m. PDT
Hi! We are checking in from our
high camp at 17,200 ft. on Denali. We had a good move up here today and are hoping to make our summit attempt tomorrow. I'm going to keep it short because it's late and time to get some sleep so we can hopefully make it to the summit of Denali tomorrow.
I will check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guide
Brent Okita and team
On The Map
June 20, 2015 9:26 pm PT
Woke up this morning... RMI GuideJake Beren was crouched in my vestibule! He happened to stop by our camp super early on his way to the airstrip to hand off some highly coveted coffee for our climbers. Thanks Jake! Soon thereafter we got up and fired the stoves ourselves. After breaking camp, the weather gods obliged us with comfortable walking temps and some cloud cover that gave us respite from the sun. Our team made short work of our move to
Camp 2 at 9,600 feet, dispatching it in 3.5 stretches of walking. We enjoyed a lazy afternoon in the sun, keeping cool with sleeping bags draped over top of the tents, rehydrating and snacking until dinner. We are excited to leave the massive loads behind in a cache here which we will hopefully back-carry up to 11,000' in a couple days.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and team reached the
Mount Rainier summit before 7:00 a.m. The weather was already quite warm and calm winds. After spending some time on top, including the last stretch to Columbia Crest, the team began their descent at 8:25 a.m.
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Was a great day in the Cascades. Too bad you din’t have our weather. View of 3 volcanoes from the top of Bandera
Posted by: Ron on 6/21/2014 at 5:28 pm
Anchorage 30mph winds and poring rain. But better than wenatchee. Miss you, stay warm
Posted by: Gwyn on 6/21/2014 at 4:08 pm
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