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Alpamayo: Elias and Team Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 19,512'

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Original Post | July 20, 2016 - 11:38 a.m. PDT Hello! This is Elias and the Alpamayo team we are on top! A great crew - some excitement out there. We got to the top here in four hours and a half. We keep beating the time every year! So, the RMI Alpamayo Climb is getting better and better every year! Peter, I, and the guys here are pretty psyched. We're going to enjoy the views a little longer and then start our descent. We'll give you a shout later on tonight from camp. We will head for base camp tomorrow. That's it for now! Update | July 20, 2016 - 3:16 p.m. PDT And we did it! Everybody reached the summit of Alpamayo today. We were on the fence about climbing and almost didn't leave camp. Starting around 11:00 p.m., we experienced unusually strong winds which lasted pretty much all night and all morning. We dragged our feet, and decided to give it a go after a delayed breakfast. With no one on the wall, we could have the luxury of climbing this surreal face without headlamps. With better conditions than usual, the plethora of of nevé provided pure joy on our steep upward progression. By 19,000', crystal ice demanded more focus and conscious delivery of every swing with our ice tools. With the incredible training and preparation by the team, we reached the airy summit a mere four and a half hour after departure. We celebrated on the summit and started our descent. Eight 60 meter rappels brought us to the overhanging bergschrund and deposited us back on the glacier, a stones throw to our tents. Now we're enjoying dinner at our high camp. Our two porters, Leoncio and Miguel, greeted with a huge smile and bows of soup. We climb hard, and we climb in style. We'll be checking in from Base Camp tomorrow! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team


Elias de Andres Martos & Team on Summit of Alpamayo July 20, 2016

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Awesome work guys.  Way to set an impossible bar for next year’s group!

Posted by: Brian P on 7/21/2016 at 9:05 pm

Phenomenal job everyone - well done!!!!!!

Posted by: John Horgan on 7/20/2016 at 4:42 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Wrap Up Their Expedition

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

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June 18, 2016 - 7:18 pm PT It was anyone's guess how today would turn out based on the snow piling up on our tents this morning. We dragged our feet a little before downing a cup of coffee and packing up our camp. We pushed down the glacier in a near whiteout, unsure if any planes would venture into the Alaska Range today. After a great trip the team was ready to head home, but we had to still wait and see what Denali had in store for us. As we descended, the visibility improved and it began to look like some fancy flying might just get us to a shower after all. The weather continued to cooperate and it wasn't long before the awesome pilots at K2 had us back in the land of green forests, running water and options for food. And like that we left the Range after a few great weeks with our teammates. It was an exceptional adventure, made great by the team who shared the effort to make it happen. Thanks to all involved for making it happen and we will all be home soon! RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Thanks to the great guides who did such a wonderful job getting this team up to the summit and safely back down again.  Your knowledge of the mountain, the weather patterns, and your decisions about when to advance or when to stay put make all the difference.  Thanks a million to all of you.  You’re the best!!!

Posted by: Bud on 6/18/2016 at 8:48 pm

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team Check in from Mexico City

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 7,300'

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Last night our crew assembled for the first time in the lobby of our hotel to start the process of building a team. There is quite a lot of experience spread throughout our squad and I look forward to seeing everyone get to know a few of Mexico's big mountains. Today we will leave this bustling metropolis and head for La Malinche, our first acclimatization hike. We ought to be on the trail this afternoon for our first taste of some thin air. Tonight we will stay at the old Olympic training facility to sleep around 10,000 feet above the sea. We've hit the ground running (or efficiently jogging) and look forward to getting started. Off to a good start! RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Set to Explore St. Petersburg

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

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Well..., I know...I know...you've heard enough from me! So for today's blog from Russia, I'd like to hand it over to one of my favorite...(sorry guys!) team members from Team 2!... RMI Guide JJ Justman Greetings from St. Petersburg! Our team left the mountains of Cheget this morning after one last feast of porridge and eggs, and drove up to the airport in Mineralnye Vody early this morning. The changing scenery was quite breathtaking, especially some of the great rock formations just outside of Cheget. After arriving to our new destination in due time, we were greeted by the welcome sight of a Starbucks cafe, where several of us enthusiastically loaded up on caffeine. The streets and architecture we passed on the way to the hotel gave us a great preview of what to expect tomorrow, where we will be touring this 'Venice of the North,' including the Hermitage, the canals, and the Church of the Savior on Spillled Blood. Until then, the team will be enjoying some well-deserved downtime, and possibly attempting to see Finland from our hotel. Cheers! Lindsay
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Kevin, thank God for Starbucks! Drink up.

Posted by: Lori on 8/4/2015 at 8:17 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 11,000’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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Monday, June 1st 10:23 pm PDT This morning we woke up at 7:30 to another beautiful day. Despite the chilly breeze, we packed up camp and had a quick breakfast and hit the dusty trail. Soon the wind dissipated and we found ourselves in base layers again. The team moved very well up Ski Hill and past our cache site on up to 11K camp. Luckily 11K camp was somewhat vacant so we moved right into an old camp saving us a lot of work, although we will need to fix up the snow walls a bit tomorrow. After a delicious dinner of mac and cheese, we crawled into our tents as the low clouds crept higher with the incoming front. Weather permitting tomorrow we will retrieve our cache at 9,600' and do some work around camp here at 11. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

“Greetings up there!” Hope you are the team that my brother “Steve” is with as I am tracking your progress.  Sounds like the trek has been pretty smooth thus far- “GOD SPEED”
“TO THE SUMMIT!!!”

Posted by: Pamela Wincapaw on 6/2/2015 at 5:15 pm

Hey Kim!  It looks amazing up there!  Stay dry and warm, but most of all enjoy every moment!

Posted by: Nicole on 6/2/2015 at 2:18 pm

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Mexicos Volcanoes: Luedtke & Team Reach the Summit of La Malinche

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 14,636'

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Monday, November 4, 2024 - 5:44 pm PT

Today was the bees knees!

After our rainy hike yesterday, we popped onto the same trail to attempt the summit of La Malinche. On the way up, we got more comfy with one another telling a plethora of jokes. We found that we all have a similar sense of humor. It was a steep climb of 4,500 feet in 4.3 miles, picking through screen and boulder fields, but we all made the summit and nobody threw up or passed out, so that's a win!

We rested on the summit and then started slowly making our way down the loose dirt and rocks. We finished out night with beer and a hot meal. Off to Ixta tomorrow!

RMI Climber Emily Bowling

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Mt. Rainier: Climb For Clean Air Enjoy Sunrise At Ingraham Flats

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,200'

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Shifting route conditions prevented the American Lung Association's Climb for Clean Air from climbing above Ingraham Flats on Mt. Rainier this morning. The team, led by RMI Guide Win Whittaker, made the most of their morning by watching the sunrise at 11,200' before returnning to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing the team at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Break Camp And Move Up to 11,000ft Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

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Hello from 11,000' Camp on Denali!

After a quick breakfast of oatmeal, we tore down camp and retraced our steps from yesterday. As we worked our way in and out of the clouds and limited visibility we finally pushed past our cache site, and continued to 11,000 ft. Once we rolled into camp, the work for the day wasn't done. We made quick work setting up tents and building camp. After many hours of hard work we finally wrapped up the evening with some ramen as it lightly snowed at camp. Tomorrow we will make the quick jaunt downhill to our cache and get the rest of our gear. Check in tomorrow!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Keep going!! Love to you Tim! Go team!!

Posted by: Teri on 5/21/2024 at 12:40 am

Way to go Pops! We’re rooting for you. We love you.

Posted by: Noel on 5/20/2024 at 8:19 am

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Mt. Rainier: September 22nd Update

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,080'

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The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams were unable to summit due to winds and a high level of precipitation. They will leave Camp Muir at 10:00 am and return to Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon.
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Aw guys I’m so sorry!! Get down safely! If this gets to Chris - I’ll be at café

Posted by: Caroline Gerhardt on 9/22/2018 at 10:42 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Retrieve Cache, Ready to Move Higher

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

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Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 8:59 PM PT Oh what a day! We awoke to cool, clear skies and quickly readied ourselves to go retrieve our cache at 13,500. As we walked and the sun began to rise higher in the sky our numb digits started to gain some life and the beautiful views put a little pep in our step. When we returned from the cache we lounged in the sun, listening to Rusty’s eclectic musical mix and filling our bellies with a delightful bagel breakfast. Later we practiced running belays and traveling on fixed lines in preparation for tomorrow’s cache at 17,000'. Our Super Crew cruised on through it and will do great with tomorrow’s climb. We are now packing bags and picking out the perfect food to stash at 17,000' Camp. We plan to rise early for our climb and be back tomorrow afternoon for some proper rest time. All is well here at scenic 14,000' Camp! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I hope the weather cooperates on your final day(s).
MS-150 riders missed Rusty’s intense bicycle face. Lol
Safe climbing to all.
Carlos

Posted by: Carlos Bernal on 6/25/2018 at 6:31 pm

Looks like the weather is finally in your favor! Hey Daddio (aka Craig Clark)- Finally have some news! It’s a GIRL! Another granddaughter on the way! Love you!

Posted by: Nicolette on 6/25/2018 at 6:13 pm

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