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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Everest: The Team is Ready to Start Their Summit Bid!

Bags are packed and the Everest team is ready! We have been busy with last minute sewing and labeling of food and gear for each camp. Checked re-checked. All systems are go. Weather has been a bit tough right now, but the forecast is good for the planned summit day. A couple of showers to help with soon to be shared tents. All good. Sad to report the Khumbu Country Club golf course is now closed for the season. The fairways are a bit to hollow and wet. We still have our horseshoe pit in great shape, and guess who had a double ringer to end the game today? Up early tomorrow, let the summit bid begin! RMI Guide and Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dan!! This is it buddy. Time to dig in and get going. Good luck on your bid for the summit! Hugs xo

Posted by: Lauralea on 5/18/2013 at 8:33 am

Godspeed as you reach for the stars. See you all in September at Mountain Fest in Ashford. Beer & burgers!

Posted by: Rick on 5/18/2013 at 8:22 am


Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent & Team Waiting Out the Storm in Talkeetna

Update 10:34 am PST Billy called from Talkeetna to give us an update: It is snowing in Talkeetna and the team will not be flying today. Update from 5/16/13 at 11:00 pm PST Checking in from a rainy Talkeetna... We woke up early this morning and headed over to the hangar after a quick breakfast at the Roadhouse hoping to finish up our last odds and ends and fly on to the glacier. While we were weighing the last of our luggage for the flight, the K2 staff told us the bad news: snowing at basecamp, flat light, and a low cloud ceiling. Translation: no go for us. So we hung out most of the day today eating food and worrying about what we forgot to pack while the rain gradually built up all day. Unfortunately, it's not looking good for tomorrow either so we may have to organize a pingpong tournament in the hangar. Despite the crummy weather the team is in good spirits and looking forward to our big adventure. We'll check in tomorrow, hopefully from Kahiltna Basecamp. All for now, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

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Pete will kill you all in Ping Pong!  ;)

Posted by: Bennie on 5/17/2013 at 11:16 am


Mt. Rainier: May 17th Update

Casey Grom and the Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climb called in early this morning. Due to low visibility the team made the decision to turn at 13,300’. The team is en-route to Camp Muir, and expected back at Basecamp this afternoon. Tyler Reid and Adam Knoff are heading up to Camp Muir to start their Five and Four Day Summit Climbs respectively.
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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Train Close to Camp

As in all expeditions weather always play a big part. Today we experienced a pretty big storm that will be on the radar for the next three days. The forecast is calling for 4 feet of total snow fall with winds up to 40 mph. We spent the day learning basic knots and learning to take care of camp during a storm. The weather was a big part of today's lesson. It has snowed about a foot and is still snowing as I'm sending this dispatch. We all are staying busy and dry and doing well. We'll see what happens over night. Will keep you posted. RMI Guide Andres Marin

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Wait Out a Storm at 11K Camp

Our team is hunkered down at the 11,000' camp still, as the weather has progressed to become a pretty significant storm. Snow is falling and winds are howling as we sit tent bound for the majority of the day. Save for breakfast and dinner, and some quick forays to the bathroom, there is really no reason to leave the relative comfort of our tents today. We're all doing well, albeit a bit eager to go climbing. Hopefully the weather breaks soon so we can get up the the 14k camp. That's all the news from this end... RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Grom & Team Check Out Cathedral Gap

Casey Grom checked in after the team climbed up to Cathedral Gap on their rest day of the Five Day Summit Climb. The weather was beautiful! The team was preparing for their summit bid in the morning. Check out the photos Casey sent after returning to Camp Muir.
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Mt. Everest: The Team Sets a Date for Their Summit Bid

We held a strategy session this morning and we set the date for a try on the summit. Weather is expected to improve as the next week goes by, but that was little consolation for those who were at the South Col last night and trying for the top this morning. Our sources tell us it was a no-go day due to high winds. We are looking for a shot on the top somewhere in the May 22 to May 23 range, which will mean that we have one more day down in Basecamp to pack, sleep and eat. Each day at the bottom of the mountain has started out with plenty of sun, so it seemed a little unfair that we sipped coffee in a damp, cold cloud this morning. It burned off before long though and we were treated to warm and springlike conditions with ice melting everywhere. Camp seems very quiet at the moment as many people are already up the mountain and getting in place for their attempts on the top. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ciao papu. good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :):) :) :) :) :)

Posted by: Elena Pellegrino on 5/17/2013 at 4:09 am

Good luck and I hope your window of opportunity opens for you all to have as close to perfect summit weather as can possibly be had. 

ABQ Uptown#985 NM/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/16/2013 at 2:32 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Staying at 11K Camp Another Day

Well, we're still at the 11,000' camp below the West Buttress. The temperatures dropped and the winds picked up considerably today as a cold storm system is affecting Alaska. Apparently, it's snowing in Anchorage; that's about 11,000' lower altitude than our camp. So yeah, it's cold here. But we're all doing well. Most of the day found us either in our sleeping bags in our tents, or in the cook tent, staying out of the wind and passing the time by reading, playing scrabble, and telling stories. We're hoping the winds abate tomorrow and we are able to move camp up to 14,200'. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team’s Snow School on the Glacier

Today we woke up with a deep blue sky and a 360-degree view. The team slept well for our first night on the glacier. After some coffee and breakfast, we all had the experience to try the CMCs which is one of the biggest novelties of the trip. Once we were well fueled and ready to head out of camp, we traveled over to a slope close to camp and completed our snow school. Lots of learning and reviewing made for a fun day on the glacier. All and all a great day! RMI Guide Andres Marin

On The Map

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we have been thinking of you and glad to hear all is fine.  been warm here in CT and undoubtedly cold there - we’d both benefit from something in between.  most important, take care and stay safe.

Posted by: david areson on 5/17/2013 at 10:51 am


Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent & Team Ready in Talkeetna

Hi all, today kicked off the official start of the second RMI Denali expedition of the 2013 season! We spent the day dealing with the more unsavory and tedious parts of mountain climbing in our preparation for tomorrow's flight into the range. Namely, we checked (and re-checked) gear, completed our orientation and permitting process with the NPS, and packed up and weighed all of our food and equipment for loading the planes. We enjoyed a team dinner on what is hopefully our last evening in civilization. The team is psyched, strong, and maybe a bit nervous but certainly ready to go - we just need the weather to cooperate tomorrow morning so we can get into Basecamp. we'll see... RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Glad the team finally made in to the glacier. Have a great journey!
Kristan

Posted by: Kristan on 5/19/2013 at 3:30 pm

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