Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: June 11th - Team Haugen Arrives in Talkeetna

June 13, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Hi All! We are hanging out in beautiful Talkeetna, Alaska. We had a gorgeous day for organizing and packing our gear. the sun is shining and the mountain is visible in the distance. The team met up in Anchorage yesterday and have been slowly molding into Summit Assassin RMI Team 6! They really are a great crew! Our gear is all bagged, weighed, and tagged. We got the word that we are all supposed to fly to basecamp around 9 tomorrow morning so we are all scrambling to get in those last correspondences and last minute tasks before the morning. We are all set for an incredible expedition. Off to bed for an early start- RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’

June 13, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 A fine day for a move presented itself to us this morning and we certainly made the most of it. Leaving our 11,000' Camp in the early morning cold is great training for the chill of higher altitude and we made a solid bid before the sun came out in force. It's nearly always hot coming into 14 and today was no exception. We were treated to some real hospitality when we arrived in the form of another RMI Team, led by Tyler Jones and Garret Stevens. Freshly hydrated, we set to work building camp and rebuilding ourselves with a big meal and early night's rest. Tomorrow is a rest day, but I hazard a guess that we will be working in some way most of the day, retrieving a cache, fortifying camp and practicing for the fixed lines. It is exciting to be up here with such a great team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Galen,
I wait eagerly everyday for updates, checking the blog multiple times (despite the fact that I have subscribed to notifications). I have also read the blogs of the team you saw come down after their summit as well as the other team who’s also at 14k but started before your team. Reading all of these incredible stories and lush descriptions makes me jelly :( and reminds me of when I camped on top of tajumulco. Looks like there’s a bit of very cold and fierce wind and you may have to wait before climbing to 17k and/or to the top. By my calculations, you have 2/3 days of buffer time so hopefully the winds will die down a bit. Or “if you can hold on. If you can hold on, hold on.” Today I found myself thinking and brainstorming about our travel and it made me happy. I hope to see you soon R

Posted by: Alice on 6/14/2013 at 1:04 am

Keep up the great work everyone!I miss you Michael, have fun and be safe. Love Vien.

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/13/2013 at 5:22 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

June 12, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Today is unfortunately another out chill situation. Garrett and I woke about 6 this morning to continued strong wind from 16,000 feet and above. The nature of the climbing is steep and exposed. With wind and a very cold north east flow, the risk of frostbite and loss of balance from the wind gusts, we have chosen to stay another day and hope for less wind tomorrow. We try to conserve our lunch food and avoid the piggy tendency that sitting and waiting in the tents provides! The weather is clear and warm in most of Alaska, but at the altitudes we want to venture into, the jet stream is on! On a more positive note, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his crew pulled into camp this afternoon, making for a great meeting of the minds in our 14,200' home. We are excited to spend some time with friends and climbing partners from past trips, although we do have high hopes for a move tomorrow. Report back soon! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Jess and team,

Mother nature will cooperate, she is just having one of those days. Weather down here not much better. Keep up the spirits, it will get better.

Jess, miss you here! Keep up the great work.

Love, Hector

Posted by: Hector Valle on 6/13/2013 at 4:35 pm

Robin and Team!
Kudos to all of you for staying put and being safe! I have faith that conditions will be much better tomorrow and you will be able to move to your high camp.
Stay safe and stay warm and lots of prayers for your safe successful climb tomorrow. As the lyrics go “movin on up!” Look forward to your next blog from high camp!
Love DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/13/2013 at 6:18 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 12, 2013 - Summit!

June 12, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Billy reported clear and beautiful skies, but cold temperatures with winds of about 10 - 15 mph form the northwest. The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 13,500’

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, June 11, 2013 All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

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Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way. Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA

Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm

James and Others:

It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve). Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive, persistence, and stamina! Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe. Best of success as you all continue to ascent!

Fred

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 11, 2013 You can't always get what you want... Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the West Buttress route above. While camp here at 14,200' remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000' camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we're not going to venture into that kind environment. So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least. While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song): If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need So here's hoping we get what we need! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team

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Completely enjoy today and the amazing view from where you are….you are somewhere so very few have ever been! Way to feel and create the magic of your life’s goals :)! Onwards and Upwards to you all!!!

Posted by: Sue Lopez on 6/12/2013 at 12:58 pm

Nothing wrong with sitting tight and waiting for the right moment. Just stay safe and stay warm and have another bagel:) We’ll be praying for your weather to break… and you will get what you need. Looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers and prayers for you all!

Matt -1

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/11/2013 at 10:03 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 11, 2013 Summit!

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Zeb Blais, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos and our Five Day Summit Climb Team Led by RMI Guide Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams climbed above the 8000’ cloud deck and reported moderate winds. They will spend some time on the summit before descending back to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Semnar - Emmons Team led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route this morning. The team had a great day of climbing and are the first RMI team to reach the summit of Mt.Rainier via the Emmons route this season. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woohoo! Yey dad!

Posted by: Jennifer on 6/12/2013 at 6:19 pm

Awesome!!!!! I am so happy that you were able to make it to the top. Thank you to the entire team ... I am sure that it took lots of team work to accomplish your goal! I love you John!!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/11/2013 at 6:22 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Continue Rest at 14,000’

June 10, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Monday, June 10, 2013 A windy and cold night was greeted by more wind. For our team this is no issue, as we had planned this second consecutive rest day. This will be just the ticket for a more acclimatized and rested body that we will need for summit success. The menu for this morning was supreme. Round upon round of bagels with cream cheese topped with bacon along with hash browns covered in cheese took us once again well past noon to complete. The places we travel in the mountains can lead one to believe we are Martians, ready to launch onto to another planet - and that is exactly what we are doing. We push ourselves both mentally and physically, taking our personal learning and discovery to a higher level. When we return from these Martian lands, after having come face to face with deep personal truths and surpassing previously held limitations...we bring a richer and more rounded person home, someone who understands more about the nature of teamwork, sacrifice, and awareness. We thank you all for the support and the opportunity to let us dig deep and take on a new understanding of our passions! The afternoon has more smelly tent time spent pounding water, fussing over who is the best celeb of all time and growing hairier by the day! The forecast is looking to set up nicely over the next few days and we hope to move to our high camp tomorrow. Till then keep the vibe high for our push! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the crew

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Great work Justin aka Jason. can’t wait to see your pictures. Clubbie

Posted by: Kathy on 6/11/2013 at 9:29 am

Nice going! And congratulations, Justin—I think the Kensington Fire Department lightweights have nothing on you now.

Posted by: Peter on 6/11/2013 at 8:31 am

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Mt. McKinley: Team Beren Enjoys Rest Day

June 10, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, June 10, 2013 It did snow a little bit last night and the cold wind this morning made a camp day a welcome change of pace for this team. We are climbing very well so far, and I'm sure everyone would've done just fine continuing higher this morning. Patience on the big mountain is key, and the recovery day will only make us stronger for the future as we acclimatize and settle in to camp life. After a big breakfast we reviewed some cramponing techniques and ice axe usage. After our mid-morning relaxation session we are going to have a potluck lunch and move to a little rope work and cache digging before dinner. Tomorrow if the weather is workable we will carry towards 14,000' Camp and get a little taste of some real altitude. Everyone sends their best to family and friends back home. Over and out, RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Team Caraccio is thinking of you Mike. You are an inspiration to us all. Love Lori

Posted by: Lori on 6/11/2013 at 4:15 pm

Thinking of you Michael. I love you and miss you!
Vien

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/11/2013 at 11:13 am

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Mt.Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Reaches Summit!

June 10, 2013

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Shaun Sears reached the summit of Mt Rainier on this clear, sunny morning. They reported windy conditions with views all the way to Mt. Hood in Oregon. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. After a short rest at Camp Muir, the teams will continue down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations!

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: June 11th - Team Haugen Arrives in Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 12, 2013 - Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 13,500’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 11, 2013 Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Continue Rest at 14,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Team Beren Enjoys Rest Day

On The Map

Mt.Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Reaches Summit!

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