Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
July 15th, 2014 - 7:16 pm PT
Yesterday's storm hit hard at 17,200 ft. The heavy snow continued through dinner and the night, with plenty of wind to make things noisy. The team took turns through the night, going out to dig snow in order to keep tents from being crushed. The hard workers would come back into the tents coated head-to-toe in rime ice. By morning, several things were clear. Significantly, the sky wasn't one of them. Our climbers were wet and cold from the rough night and our summit ambitions were now going to take a back seat to getting down the mountain safely. Even before we could see the Autobahn, we knew it couldn't receive two plus feet of snow overnight without gaining a significant avalanche risk. Sure enough, after the morning shovel session and breakfast we did get some clearing and couldn't see any evidence of our track to Denali Pass. The slope had dramatically wind sculpted snow slab from top to bottom. We won't mess with it. Winds died in the afternoon, which made it a little easier for the team to dry out and get some rest. We'll give the slopes below us a day to cook in the sun and stabilize and we'll hope the next storm pulse holds off long enough for us to get down from the ridiculously high West Buttress.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
All is well here in the Baksan Valley, at the base of Elbrus. We've settled into our comfortable hotel here in Cheget, which doubles as a ski town in the winter. It reminds me of Jackson Hole with Mt. Rainier instead of the Grand Tetons.
We woke to a beautiful morning and finally we were able to get out and stretch our legs a bit. We made the most of the local ski lifts, (to save our knees of course) and hiked up the neighboring peak to start our acclimatization. It started off a little cloudy today, but eventually cleared for some decent views of Elbrus. After our ascent we headed back down to town for a nice lunch and headed over the local climbing shop to pick up a few last minute things. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing, getting our bags packed and just wrapping up another enjoyable Russia dinner with plenty of borscht.
All is well here and we'll check in again tomorrow!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and Crew
Casey,
You do get around!
Good luck and stay safe.
Art Muir
Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 8:38 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Good morning from Huaraz!
The team is on its day one of the expedition. After meeting in Lima, we took the mandatory 8 hour ride to Huaraz and checked into the hotel. We met with Peter, our outfitter and best asset in Peru, and headed for a much needed dinner. Early bed time to overcome the many hours of international (and domestic) travel and we´re now ready for breakfast. The plan for today? A 2 to 3 hour walk in the vicinity of town, a thorough gear check and pack for tomorrow's departure to Cashapampa, the trail head for Alpamayo.
Best regards,
RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team
Pete-
What a feast! Best wishes to you and your trail mates for a successful climb!
Dad
Posted by: Ted Sage on 7/16/2014 at 5:15 pm
Pete,
Great to see your smiling face in the Huaraz pic. Jim Daverman alerted me to your presence on this trip.
Good luck; make it happen!
Art Muir
Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 8:40 pm
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guide Peter Whittaker and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 5:20 am. The team is making their descent back to Camp Muir and enjoying a light wind. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon.
The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7:00 am. Pete reports clear skies on the summit and 15 mph winds. He says it is fairly warm and a really nice day to climb. The team is enjoying some time at Columbia Crest and will begin their descent to Camp Schurman around 8:00 am.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
We ARE SO PROUD and HAPPY that you reached The Summit John! Can’t wait to see that photo!! Safe return during the descent!!! See you soon! Love, AM and Biscuit
Posted by: Mary Ann and Carter Boicourt on 7/16/2014 at 6:02 am
Way to go Jimmie D.
This Rainier summit business is getting to be old hat to you.
Well done.
Art
Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 8:42 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
.jpg)
July 14th, 2014 - 7:45 pm PT
At seven this morning, a good chunk of the sky was clear. We could see way out into the tundra to the West and there were mountains visible in the South that we were seeing for the first time on this trip. Our objective, Denali's South Peak, was in the clear and there didn't appear to be any wind blowing at Denali Pass. We geared up to climb for the summit. There was a bit of cloud to watch in the Northwest though. As we broke trail toward the base of the Autobahn (the route to Denali Pass) we watched that cloud in the NW come a little closer. We climbed some of the steeper terrain of the Autobahn while still in morning shadows. It was cold and progress was slow due to our need to re-establish the snowed over route. The clouds encroached on the North Peak. Then they formed a cap on the South Peak. We were still in relatively calm conditions, so we pushed on to about 17,900 feet, in order to give the clouds a chance to change their mind and flee. This didn't happen. The clouds became a snowstorm and so we spun around and worked carefully back to high camp. Since the storm showed no signs of abating, it seemed a good time to retrieve our emergency cache of food from 16,200 feet. A few intrepid guides accomplished that mission just in time to avoid strengthening winds on the West Buttress. We're safe in our tents now at 17,200 feet, waiting for the storm to go elsewhere before we try once again to climb Denali.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
We are cheering for you all and keeping the faith for good weather! Stay warm, stay positive and see you soon!
Posted by: Sarah Jayne on 7/15/2014 at 9:15 am
Another snow day!! Look forward to summit report tomorrow.
Posted by: Mary on 7/15/2014 at 3:50 am
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Hello again Everyone,
It was anyone long day of travel here in Russia for us again. We departed Moscow moderately early and flew southward to the town of Mineralnye Vody (which means mineral water) where we were meet by our local guide Alexander. We loaded all of our duffels into the waiting van and continued heading south towards Mt. Elbrus. This part of Russia is very rural and the countryside is mostly used for agriculture purposes, especially sunflowers! It has been heavily influenced by the Turkish and is therefore predominately Islamic. It's beautiful here, but it also seems a bit behind the times when compared to Moscow or St. Petersburg. The team enjoyed the views, had a little fun, but everyone is ready for some exercise!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and Crew
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four- and Five- Day Mount Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Seth Waterfall and Billy Nugent, were on the summit to watch the sunrise. Both teams called in at 7:30 on the descent and they were at the top of Disappointment Cleaver. They reported no wind, blue skies and a low cloud layer just above Rainier Basecamp in Ashford. It’s a beautiful day on the mountain and getting hot!
Way to go Megan! I am very proud if you! I can’t wait to hear stories!
Posted by: Anna O'Neill on 7/14/2014 at 6:50 pm
AMAZING!!! Way to go Rob!!! You are amazing! All your girls are so proud of you! Great job team!!! So incredibly cool! Rock on!!!
Posted by: Kathryn on 7/14/2014 at 3:12 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
July 13, 2014 - 10:58 pm PT
Yesterday was a tough climb to reach high camp at 17,200 ft. Bad weather at the start of the day caused us to get on the trail later than we'd have liked and a couple inches of new snow on the route made the steep pitches a little more exhausting than they might otherwise be. Even so, with heavy packs and tired legs, we were thrilled to balance along on the crest of the West Buttress, enjoying an endless sunset of golden light. We pulled into camp at 9 PM, just as the sun got tangled in thick cloud. It was a scramble to build camp and get stoves going before the real cold took hold. We ran stoves until 2:30 AM in order to have enough water. As we worked hard to get dug in, we watched a team of two guides and one climber make a late descent of the "Autobahn". They'd managed to thread the needle and hit the summit and as they neared camp, the weather came in again with clouds and wind. Our tents stood up to a few good gusts in the night and the usual blowing snow but as tired as we were, it didn't keep us awake. Morning was calm and easy where we were but too windy and mean up above, so we finished getting our camp in order and took it easy instead of climbing. The team of three has descended now and we are left alone in our quest... Likely the highest people in North America, even as we simply sit in camp on what has become a beautiful evening. If the good weather lasts until morning, we'll know how to use it.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Hello from Russia everyone!
The team arrived yesterday, and after the long flights we took it easy with a brief team meeting and a quick bite to eat. We then retired to our rooms to sleep off the jet lag.
Today we woke up rather leisurely, had a continental breakfast, and walked just a short distance to meet our tour guide at the Red Square and Kremlin. We spent the better part of the day walking around the Kremlin, Red Square, and the famous St. Basil's Cathedral. Along our walk we also passed by the tomb of the unknown solider and had a brief lunch at the G.U.M.
After our tour we took a short break to do a little exploring on our own, or snuck off for a quick cat nap. We wrapped up the evening with a nice walk down to a diner to grab dinner where we enjoyed mingling with the locals and getting to know each other better.
All is well and everyone is looking forward to heading to the mountain tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and team
So happy everyone is having a good time so far!
Posted by: Sydney on 7/14/2014 at 11:45 am
Glad to see you are all smiles! Happy climbing.
Posted by: Mary An on 7/14/2014 at 9:22 am
Posted by: Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Greetings all,
After spending the last 10 days above 14,000', our eyes and lungs relished in the sights, smells, and the oxygen-rich, moist ocean air we encountered on the drive back from Huaraz to Lima. A stop in Playa Barranca for ceviche, tacu-tato, and other local seafood dishes truly brought our expedition full circle as we enjoyed an ocean view from our lunch table. Upon arrival in Lima, the inevitable disbanding of the team began as some caught midnight flights back to friends and family, while a few have one more day in Lima to relax, catch the World Cup Final, and relive the wonderful experiences we've had over the past couple weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. Best wishes from sea level and thanks for following along!
RMI Guides Robby Young, Elias de Andres Martos, and the Peru Seminar Team
Previous Page
Next Page
.jpg)
.jpg)
Job well done to the whole team! Wish you could have made the summit, it is much better to be safe than risk get into trouble. Have a wonderful and safe journey down. Joe and Sean, can’t wait to hear about it. Cheers to all of you!!!
Posted by: Tower on 7/16/2014 at 11:12 am
It’s been fun learning about your trek. Be safe out there. Kb, I look forward to hearing a bit more about everything.
Posted by: Patrick Bell on 7/16/2014 at 10:44 am
View All Comments