Entries By pete van deventer
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Between training and the climb itself, climbers spend a lot of time with a pack on their backs. Somewhat of a necessary evil, the goal is to make your pack carry comfortably and efficiently so that it doesn’t work against you. A few tips that will result in a more enjoyable pack to carry:
1. Minimize dead space in the pack
2. Try to fit everything (except the ice axe) inside the pack
3. Keep the mass of the pack close to your body
4. Frequently adjust the straps to carry the load more comfortably
5. Have a system
Minimizing dead space in the pack will help the pack ride in a more balanced way, and allow you to fit everything inside. A big factor that creates dead space is too many stuff sacks packed together. Round or barrel shaped stuff sacks don’t nest together well, instead leaving large gaps between them (like a cup full of marbles). To minimize this effect, try to limit the number of stuff sacks you use. A compression stuff sack for your sleeping bag is important, as it dramatically reduces the volume of the sleeping bag, but most of the other items can be packed loose, without stuff sacks. The down parka and spare insulating layers do a great job of packing around the sleeping bag to fill any spaces. Some guides go so far as to pack their pack partway, and then (taking care not to crush anything breakable) insert their foot into the pack and squish everything down to squeeze out all of the air. In addition, if climbers have packs with dedicated sleeping bag compartments, I often recommend that they detach the shelf that separates the compartment from the main pack, and treat the pack as one large tube. Sleeping bag compartments tend to create dead space where we want it least, right near the center of mass of our bodies.
Minimize the number of items that are attached to the outside of the pack. The ice axe generally has a dedicated attachment point (the ice axe loops), and is really the only exception to this rule. The rest of our equipment should fit inside the pack. With a little bit of thought, items that seem to take up a lot of space can be packed more efficiently. For example, by stuffing the helmet with extra socks and food before packing it, the volume of the helmet itself becomes very little. Crampons can be put together so that the tines cover each other, and they too can be placed in the pack. Items clipped to the outside of the pack tend to swing, get damaged, and make a ruckus. By minimizing the number of items clipped to the outside of the pack, your pack will carry more comfortably and with less noise!
In general when you are packing, place items that you won’t need or use that stretch to the bottom of the pack, while items that you would like to keep handy (food, sunscreen, etc) stay near the top. Additionally, place heavier items closer to the back panel of the pack, keeping them nearer your center of mass.
There is no perfect fit for a pack, and comfort and fit of your pack will change throughout the course of a climb or training session. In general, try to carry the majority of the weight on your hips. When putting on a pack, hitch the pack up higher on your back than it will ride, and cinch down the waist strap. Then tighten the shoulder straps until they just make contact with your shoulders. Next, lightly tighten the load lifter straps on the shoulder straps and waist belt. This helps to pull the weight of the pack in closer to your back and helps with balance. Lastly, constantly adjust throughout the day as discomforts arise!
Have a system to your pack so that you have a good idea where each item is. This will save you time and frustration throughout the climb, if you can reach straight to a warmer pair of gloves for example, rather than unpack most of your pack each time you need an item. With a well-organized system, you will spend more time at each break resting and recovering, and less time digging for items in your pack. With a little bit of time and practice your pack won’t be such a burden and your training sessions, and ultimately the climb, will be more enjoyable!
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Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Read about Pete's recent sailing and ski mountaineering trip to Norway's Lofoten Islands on the RMI Blog.
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Posted by: Dave Hahn, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Way to go Ben and Kara! Summited on Claire’s Birthday.
Posted by: Dad, Connie and Claire on 8/8/2013 at 6:20 pm
So happy for you Kara, Ben and Jeff! You’ve worked so hard for this… I am so proud!! Come home safely, I can’t wait to hear about everything. I love you!!
Posted by: Chris sand on 8/7/2013 at 8:44 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations Team Miller!! We Are so excited and proud!!!
Posted by: Bonnie, Curry and Jamie on 7/30/2013 at 9:51 am
Good job Nick - at least you made an attempt - next for you is Everest
Posted by: Captain H on 7/29/2013 at 2:39 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Scott,
Congrats on another great climb! Your family is very proud of you and your accomplishment. Glad you are home safe and sound. love, m and fam
Posted by: Michelle Rico Wilsdon on 7/29/2013 at 11:51 am
Way to go pops! Looking forward to seeing pictures and hearing about the hike.
Posted by: Jon G. on 7/24/2013 at 10:02 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
On The Map
Hi team: My stepson is with Dave Hahn on the way up, and I’ve been reading your team’s posts also. Hope you got down, and got to fly out.
Posted by: Vicki on 7/10/2013 at 3:25 pm
Hola Guapo,
Viola just called me to tell me you were stuck” IN a glacier?” I HOPE NOT!....I’m hoping you meant : “stuck ON the glacier i.e.:mountain”. Did you forget our home number?
You have nothing scheduled at the office until the 22nd. Viola wanted me to let you know that. She said you would be home Thursday How is this possible?
Aywhoooo
Are you planing to take me away?...Far…....Far…...away? I hope so! If you can’t…make sure you pick up a box of Calgon at the supermercado before you come home! (Calgon take me way!!)
xxoo
Marion
Posted by: marion and maya on 7/9/2013 at 4:09 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
On The Map
Hello Guapo,
Everyone is asking me how long the trip down is, but I honestly don’t remember.
On the 9th it will be three weeks…..seems like forever.
Looking forward to hearing all about it…everyone is!
We are all proud! Im glad you are resting and recovering.
xxoo
Mairon ad Maya
Posted by: marion and maya on 7/7/2013 at 3:54 pm
Good morning, Tommy! I am grateful you are well and resting. I miss you, but I am happy ya’ll are using caution as you come down. More than anything, I can’t wait to hear your voice! There was lots of excitement on Facebook once everyone learned of your success reaching the top. I can’t wait for you to read the posts and the messages and “likes” of those following you. I posted a special message to you on Facebook from me and your supporters today. To say I am proud seems like an understatement because I am so much more. I am humbled by your courage, strengthened by your strength, and inspired by your passion. We have such an incredible future ahead. Thank you for showing me what is possible. I pray for an awesome day and safety coming down. My love and thoughts are with you going down as they were going up. I am so excited thinking how close you are to coming home! I love you!
Rhonda
Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 7/7/2013 at 8:21 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls in after summit success!
On The Map
Derek, Congrats on your climb! I’m in North Pole AK and have been looking at the mountain from the fire. ICP is at elem. school stop by if possible.
Stay Safe,
Kim
Posted by: Kim Lemke on 7/10/2013 at 2:20 pm
Way to go!!! Can’t wait to hear the tales, Wy. What an awesome accomplishment. It’s almost like being able to say, “I walked on the moon!” :) Love you!
Posted by: Donna Evenson on 7/7/2013 at 9:01 pm
Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
On The Map
Derek - I hope you and the team are safe and will finally make summit in honor of the 4th of July!!
Love, Aunt Rita
Posted by: Rita DeCamp on 7/4/2013 at 4:02 pm
So excited for you to reach the summit!
We are roasting to death in this humidity…you are far better off there!
I told you that you could make it to the top!
We can’t wait to hear all about it!
Lots Love and hugs
Guapa and Duckie
Posted by: marion and maya on 7/4/2013 at 2:37 pm
What are your thoughts on training with steel barbell weights in a pack, up to 50 pounds? Does this mimic climbing conditions, or should different materials be used for a more realistic pack feel?
Posted by: Mark on 11/19/2019 at 6:58 pm
Hi Vikas,
It depends on how many days you are heading out for and what kinds of conditions you expect to encounter. In general, a 60L - 85L pack should be adequate for a backpacking trip of several days in the summer. Check out Whittaker Mountaineering’s Guide to Backpacks for more information on picking and sizing a pack:
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/mountain-logic/guide-to-backpacks
- The RMI Team
Posted by: RMI Expeditions on 5/24/2014 at 12:42 pm
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