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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Repair Gear and Rest at 14,000 ft Camp

Wednesday, May 25, 2022 - 10:13 pm PT

As the forecast promised, we watched evidence of wind evolve above us across the Alaska range today, but our home at 14,000' Camp was calm, warm, and quite pleasant. We made the most of it, repairing gear that's malfunctioned, visiting with friends across camp, and napping. Tomorrow is most likely more of the same, so we'll spend time organizing so that when the weather switch flips, we're ready. Yesterday as we headed up, another team that was taking a rest break told us that we "were a Porsche 911 turbo engine". We'll hope to fire that up on Friday.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Visit Edge of World, Prepare to Climb Fixed Ropes

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 6:08 pm PT

Today we enjoyed another sunny rest day at 14,000' Camp. Without a breath of wind and cloudless skies we enjoyed possibly the best views of the trip so far. Frigid morning temps quickly gave way to pleasant heat as soon as the sun hit camp. After a casual breakfast we made our way across camp and over to "The Edge of the World," a stunning precipice overlooking the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. Looking down at the tiny dots of Ski Hill camp it was hard to believe we were there just a few days ago! Before retuning to camp we reviewed the skills and gear associated with fixed rope travel in anticipation of our carry up the fixed lines tomorrow. This afternoon has been spent resting and gathering the supplies we intend to cache. As our acclimatization continues and sunny weather persists we are all feeling excited to see the upper mountain. Tomorrow should be a great day for a walk up high!

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

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So glad to be able to follow your adventure. Sending good energy your way as you continue to ascend. Morgan and Ed also send their regards. We keep all of you in our thoughts.

Posted by: Maria Alexandra Velez on 5/20/2022 at 3:34 pm

Thinking of you all from Scotland and hoping you have a great climb.  Charles and Jennifer

Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/20/2022 at 7:27 am


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Travel to St. Petersburg

We traveled all day and have finally arrived in one of the most beautiful cities in all of Europe, St.Petersburg. After a short ride from the airport, we got checked into our hotel and took a short break before dinner. We had dinner at a local brew pub, as the team was hungry for some burgers and beer. We then took a short but scenic stroll, which included a climb up St. Isaac’s Cathedral to take in the beautiful evening view. Everyone is very excited to explore and see this city tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey and team.
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Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Ascend to Shira Camp

Day 1 -

We're all excited to have finally gotten our climb going. After months, and in some cases years, of anticipation of this adventure, day 1 is almost over. 

Driving through the lush agricultural zone low on the flanks of Kilimanjaro we finally arrived at the start of our climb, the Machame Gate. Light rain was falling as we debarked the bus that brought us here, but stopped by the time we started hiking. Five hours later we arrived, the group showing strong form on this first day. 

Camp had been set up and awaited our arrival, a stark change to what many of us are used to. Following this, tea time and popcorn then a great dinner. 

The highlight so far was the wonderful cake that was so carefully brought to camp to recognize Thomas's 20th birthday, accompanied by the excellent singing of our guides as they presented this special recognition of a special person. Thanks Naiman, Tosha, Alfred and the rest of the crew

We're looking forward to going higher tomorrow. To Shira Camp!!!

Day 2 -

Shira Camp!

We walked out of the light clouds and drizzle of Machame Camp forward to gaining some elevation and rising above the rain forest. Although it took a little while we finally broke out of the clouds and into the sunshine we've been missing since arriving to Tanzania.

Everyone crushed our 5 hour hike to camp. The last hour we were treated to our first view of Kibo, Kilimanjaro’s summit area. The Western Breach was impressive and allowed us to see the general direction we’ll be climbing over the next few days,

We’re looking forward to tomorrow where we’ll reach a high point of 15,000’ before descending down to Barranco Camp at 13,000’. A perfect day for acclimatizing.

We’ll talk soon from Barranco Camp!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Reach the Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported clear skies, light winds and pleasant temperatures. They began their descent from the crater rim after 7 a.m. PT. The teams will return to Camp Muir (10,060') for a short break and then continue down to Paradise (5,400') this afternoon. RMI Guide Kel Rossiter and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team called from Camp Schurman. They reported good conditions and great weather. The team made their summit attempt today and reached 13,500' but decided to call that their high point and return to camp. The team will spend tonight on the mountain with some additional time for training. They will break camp tomorrow morning, descend to the trail head and return to Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford in the late afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbing teams!
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Thanks Jake and team again for an amazing trip! You guys are awesome and will be missed!

Posted by: Tricia on 7/11/2013 at 12:59 pm


Chris Ebeling reflects on his AMGA ski guide course

Standing in the Taggert Lake parking lot of Grand Teton National Park, we gather for one of the last morning guide meetings of our AMGA Ski Guide Course. Everybody smiles and chuckles as our meeting leader reads the weather report. Over the last 9 days we have received over 80 inches of snow containing more than 8 inches of water equivalency. The avalanche forecast is high and predicted to hit extreme after a rain event starts this evening. We all talk about dialing back our terrain choices…way back. This storm has been relentless for many days, altering our objectives, creating whiteout conditions to navigate, forcing meticulous terrain selection, and making for some great skiing. We have all learned many tools for creating a positive and safe mountain experience amidst a dangerous snowpack. Today we talk about our tour plan, a planned route up a 3000 vertical foot feature in Grand Teton National Park. Through mapping tools, some math, and a little technology, we know what we're getting into and have a plan to manage the risks. We talk about who will take the lead for our group on each climb and each descent, as well as our pacing, timing, emergency plans, equipment, and weather forecast. We break our meeting, beacons checked, skins on, click in, it's time to go skiing!

AMGA Ski Guide Course - Jackson 2017 from Chris Ebeling on Vimeo.

In February with the help of the RMI guide grant I attended this 12-day AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Ski Guide Course in Jackson, Wyoming. This is the second course in the four courses and exams that lead to becoming a certified AMGA ski guide. The course covers numerous factors of guiding in the winter environment. Managing terrain, instruction and modeling, and putting clients in the safest, best snow is the primary focus of our techniques on the down. Creating efficient tracks, navigation, and terrain selection is a big focus of our time guiding the climb. We cover many technical factors as well, including adding security in 3rd class terrain using our rope, technical lowers and rappels into steep ski terrain, crevasse rescue on skis, travel with an improvised emergency sled, and construction of winter emergency shelters. Discussing possible terrain choices Many thanks to RMI and the RMI guide grant for their financial and mentorship support. Another big thanks to our instructors Christian Santelices and Rob Hess for their dedication to growing the professionalism of our guiding community. _____ Chris Ebeling has been guiding with RMI since 2015. He grew up in the Northwest, climbing, skiing, and riding around Oregon and Washington before making the move to the Northern Rockies of Montana. He returned from Montana to join RMI, but still returns to Montana to explore the remote corners of his home range during the winter.
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Mt. Shuksan: September 26th Summit!

RMI Guides Mike Walter & Billy Nugent led their team to the summit of Mt. Shuksan today. The team enjoyed stellar views and a great climb. They will return to high camp for their final night in the mountains. They will descend to the trail tomorrow. Congratulations to the team!
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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Teams Reach Summit

The Five Day Climb August 25 - 29 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on Wednesday evening. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Josh McDowell reported a light breeze and clear skies. The weather at Camp Muir this morning is cloudy with a soaking rain. The team is hoping the rain dissipates for their departure and walk down the Muir Snowfield to Paradise. The team will celebrate their adventure in Ashford later today and conclude their program. Congratulations to the Five Day Climber!
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Awesome climb, awesome guides, good advice. professional team. Thanks josh! Take care.

Paul

Posted by: Paul koltronis on 9/2/2019 at 2:04 am

Way to go, dad! What an amazing accomplishment. . . You never cease to amaze us! We love you and are so proud of you!

Safe journey to the mainland.

Love and God Bless,

Bo, Chris, and Carlton

Posted by: Bo, Chris, and Carlton on 8/29/2019 at 2:20 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Acclimatizes with hike of Rucu Pichincha

Hello again everyone Today we had a very nice hike to help with our acclimatization on a nearby peak called Pichincha. It is one of the many local peaks that is situated above Quito and is used by many climbers to help adjust to the higher altitude here in Ecuador. We made use of the gondolas to help us gain access to around 12,500 ft then hiked the additional 2,500 ft to the summit. It took our team roughly 3 hours to gain the top after a little scrambling up the final bit to reach our high point thus far. It was a personal high point for a few of us, and the entire team did a fantastic job. After spending a bit of time on the summit and getting are photos we descended all the back to our hotel for a brief nap before dinner. Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew.

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: August 20th Summit!

This morning the RMI summit climbs reached Washington's highest point, Columbia Crest on Mt. Rainier! The weather was great with some winds around 25 mph, a little chilly but really nice. The Four Day Summit Climb left the crater rim to start their descent back to Camp Muir at 7:50 a.m. Congratulations to today's summit climbs!
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Congratulations to Mike and everyone else in this group. Can’t wait to see pictures. What an accomplishment.

Posted by: DEBBIE on 8/21/2012 at 8:15 pm

Daniel, Awesome pics my love…the inter glacier is beautiful. I’m sure the pics don’t do it justice. Rendido ante ti mi amor! Eschchur yo eschando otra did mas had ta, Jennifer

Posted by: Jennifer Penn on 8/21/2012 at 7:01 pm

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