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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Visit the Edge of the World

Tuesday, June 29, 2021 - 4:25 pm PT

The sky was blue and winds were calm at 14k this morning. Up higher it was a different story, with a lenticular cloud cap on the summit and long plumes of spindrift streaming out to the east. We enjoyed a morning jaunt to the Edge of the World, where we could look down almost seven thousand feet below us to the Kahiltna Glacier and our camp at the Base of Ski Hill at 7800'.

We also spent a few ours reviewing and practicing some climbing techniques that we will employ up higher.

Our next task is to establish a cache up high, above the Headwall on the West Buttress proper. Weather willing we'll do that tomorrow. Now it's time for some reading and resting before dinner.

We'll be in touch tomorrow.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Huascaran: Elias & Team Check in After Summit Day

Good evening from Moraine Camp! Yes, we reached the summit of Huascaran today. We stood on top of the most heavily glaciated peak between the tropics. What a day! This is an incredibly challenging mountain, and the terrain was no joke. But we knew what we were after, and the previous climbs of Yanapacha and Chopicalqui were the right acclimatizing/preparation stages. We left at midnight, and shortly after 8 am we were on top. Super steep terrain, massive crevasses and some seracs kept the guides on task non stop. But sure it was rewarding; the views from the top are this guide's new favorite! After an efficient and no less involved descent, upon arrival to high camp, it was obvious we had gas in the tank to continue to lose elevation. So we packed camp up, and with the invaluable help of our porters (the real heroes) we started down. Bypassing Camp 1 on the way, we continued to Moraine Camp in an arduous 19 hour day. We are still higher than our beloved Rainier, but sure this air will feel thick tonight. Now, time to turn to the stoves and cook some diner! Our team kicked butt today. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
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Congratulations on a successful summit!

Posted by: Holly on 7/22/2019 at 2:40 am


Mt. Everest: The Team Begins Their 2nd Acclimating Rotation

Hey RMI, this is Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall and Dan Johnson. We're up at Camp 1, and we came up this morning through the Ice Fall in about five hours time. Good moving and great conditions today, just a beautiful morning. And coming into Camp 1, it seemed like we were on a different planet than when we were last here and it was snowing so hard and so cloudy and cold. So today we just had a nice calm, sunny day at Camp 1. Rested and relaxed, drank a bunch of water. And we're a little bit excited because we're moving up to Camp 2 tomorrow. Our Sherpa team established Camp 2 yesterday and built it up. Yubaraj and Lam Babu spent the night up there. It's about dinner time now. The clouds were starting to creep in. Late afternoon clouds, not bad weather. Later this evening we expect them to roll right back out again. So everything is going well on our second rotation. We're hoping to be up here for about a week this time. A little bit longer. But we've been in touch with Mark Tucker down at Basecamp and everything seems to be going well. All for now, bye. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Camp 1.

On The Map

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Hey Danny boy, hope things are going your way. I know you have what it takes to get to the top.
Best of luck to you and your group.
Pete

Posted by: Peter McLean on 4/27/2013 at 11:59 am

May the “Sun God” shine brightly on your adventure!

Posted by: Tammy on 4/26/2013 at 7:58 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Back at High Camp After Successful Summit

"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows. . . " After nearly two weeks of hard work here in the Andes, our team stood on top of the tallest mountain in either North or South America! Congratulations on a job well done. We had to earn it today, climbing through the chilly pre-dawn winds into a whiteout summit. Occasionally the surrounding peaks popped out, only to retreat behind an opaque veil that became our visual reality as we ascended the Canaleta to the summit. A fine day in the mountains nonetheless and everyone should be proud of a tough, safe and successful climb. Tomorrow we start the long voyage back to Mendoza, retracing the steps taken a few weeks ago back to civilization. Thanks for all the support from the homeland and we'll be seeing you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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KATIE AND ADAM—Way to go! Have safe and beautiful.trip back to us.
Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Slocumcoals on 1/2/2012 at 6:42 pm

Trevor, congratulations on your speedy climb!!!  Was that record time or what???  We all can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Love:  Heidi, Steve & the kids

Posted by: Heidi on 12/30/2011 at 3:44 pm


Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Ascend to Shira Camp

Day 1 -

We're all excited to have finally gotten our climb going. After months, and in some cases years, of anticipation of this adventure, day 1 is almost over. 

Driving through the lush agricultural zone low on the flanks of Kilimanjaro we finally arrived at the start of our climb, the Machame Gate. Light rain was falling as we debarked the bus that brought us here, but stopped by the time we started hiking. Five hours later we arrived, the group showing strong form on this first day. 

Camp had been set up and awaited our arrival, a stark change to what many of us are used to. Following this, tea time and popcorn then a great dinner. 

The highlight so far was the wonderful cake that was so carefully brought to camp to recognize Thomas's 20th birthday, accompanied by the excellent singing of our guides as they presented this special recognition of a special person. Thanks Naiman, Tosha, Alfred and the rest of the crew

We're looking forward to going higher tomorrow. To Shira Camp!!!

Day 2 -

Shira Camp!

We walked out of the light clouds and drizzle of Machame Camp forward to gaining some elevation and rising above the rain forest. Although it took a little while we finally broke out of the clouds and into the sunshine we've been missing since arriving to Tanzania.

Everyone crushed our 5 hour hike to camp. The last hour we were treated to our first view of Kibo, Kilimanjaro’s summit area. The Western Breach was impressive and allowed us to see the general direction we’ll be climbing over the next few days,

We’re looking forward to tomorrow where we’ll reach a high point of 15,000’ before descending down to Barranco Camp at 13,000’. A perfect day for acclimatizing.

We’ll talk soon from Barranco Camp!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Aconcagua Expedition: Scott & Team Ascend to Camp 2

Today was the day! The day we would move from Basecamp straight to Camp 2, or Nido de Condores as it is officially called here. Unfortunately, the wind still did not want to cooperate and the mountain was still going to make us work for every foot of elevation gain. We walked up hill through snow, sleet, grapple, and wind gusts that made us wobble. When the wind came, we put our heads down and persevered making great time to our gear cache at Camp 1. After adding some “training weight” to our packs we turned towards Camp 2, walking into more and more wind and snow. Aconcagua really didn’t want this trip to be an easy one, not that any of them are ever easy. After 5 1/2 hours and 4000 feet of elevation gain we strolled into camp feeling accomplished, but tired and of course very hungry. By the time we put up our tents the wind was giving us a break, but the snow how now doubled its efforts and dropping 6-7 inches of fluffy powder on us in a couple hours. We were all happy to be warm and cozy in our tents watching the snow fall and waiting for dinner to help warm our bellies. Once again, everyone on this team absolutely styled an incredibly difficult day. Arriving in camp smiling and feeling well despite the thin air here at 18,500 feet. Tomorrow is a rest day and hopefully a sunny one at that!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit on Windy Day

The Four Day Climb August 29 - 1 September reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7 AM today. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Ben Ammon led the groups today. Brent reported windy conditions as they were approaching the crater rim. After enjoying the views the teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. They will conclude their adventure at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon and hopefully enjoy the festivities of Rainier Mountain Fest. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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You are all rockstars!

Posted by: Lois on 9/1/2019 at 11:25 am

Congratulations Jonathan!!!! I am so proud of you!!! <3

Posted by: Joanne on 9/1/2019 at 9:09 am


Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Ready to Launch

Our departure this morning was earlier than anyone wanted, but gave us plenty of time at the Moscow International Airport to sort out our numerous duffels, get everything checked, and have a quick breakfast and coffee before we boarded. The flight to Kislovodsk was uneventful (as they all should be), and soon we were blazing down the road in a minibus towards our hotel. While the team did some food shopping and relaxed, the guides made a trip to our outfitters to grab some stored gear. We got the special treatment, returning in a Russian jeep! We've had dinner, checked through our gear, and are ready for bed and a departure for the mountain tomorrow morning. Best, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
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Good luck and we look forward to following the climb.  One question on the Russian truck, it appears to be held together by tape?

Posted by: wendy kolosar on 8/6/2019 at 9:27 am

Godspeed Pete and friends.
PS: Aconcagua + Rainier book in composition..
Fun reliving dat. To find a publisher now,,,,

Posted by: Waltero Glover on 8/6/2019 at 8:01 am


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team North Instead of South

Our last day on the ice turned out to be all about flying. Flagging down an Ilyushin 76 is a big deal. This one set her wheels onto the ice runway around mid afternoon. By then we'd taken tents down and checked our bags at the first class counter (a table in the snow with a roll of stickers, some clipboards and friendly ALE staff who were not checking our ID's). Our Union Glacier hosts even gave us a deluxe final lunch in the dining tent. Once the plane landed, there wasn't any need for us to hurry. It takes a while to unload such a big and powerful jet transport. Eventually we caught a ride out to the ice runway in a comfy tricked out big wheeled van (with Utah plates) and then we were picking seats on the Ilyushin. The plane took off a little after 5 PM and the Russian crew cranked up the heat. 4 hours later we'd crossed the Drake Passage and were floating in over the Straits of Magellan. Punta Arenas lay waiting with flowers and Trees and grass in vibrant midsummer color. The sun set as the bus brought us in from the airport (we hadn't actually seen any sunsets while down on the ice). By 11 PM we'd checked into the hotel and showered and gotten together in the lobby for one last, pleasant, mandatory team function... The victory dinner! Thanks for following the trip and for the friendly encouragement of the blog comments (which were relayed to us). Best Regards and Happy New Year, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Carstensz Pyramid:  Team Packs and Prepares in Timika

Hello from Timika, Indonesia! It's Sara McGahan, I'm 17 years old, and you may remember me from 2011's Mt. Everest Expedition! I'm now climbing with RMI Carstensz Pyramid team. Today was spent preparing for the expedition ahead of us. We have organized gear, shopped for food, and protected everything in waterproof sacks or trash bags. This climb seems so different from any others I've done; For most of our expedition we will be hiking through a hot, humid rainforest with expected rain showers almost hourly. We must plan that everything will get wet, but we are trying to do what we can to prevent it from getting completely soaked. The culture here is also so different from anywhere else I've been in the world. There are many parts of West Papua which are still undiscovered. Some tribes have only been in contact with Westerners since the 1970's, and even now the people are still rooted in the customs and traditions of their ancestors. It is normal for some people to walk around with little to no clothing on, except perhaps for a grass skirt for the women and some shells for the men. Personally, I am fascinated by the culture here and so excited to further experience it. While it's easy to type this in a nice hotel with internet and buffet breakfasts, this seems like a one in a lifetime experience that I can't wait to begin. The terrain will be difficult both physically and mentally, but everyone in our team seems well prepared for the challenge and enthused for the adventure that awaits. We are catching a 6 am flight tomorrow to Sugapa and then headed into the jungle. That's all from Timika! Sara McGahan

On The Map

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Hi Sara, wow that sounds interesting!  Have fun!

Posted by: Candace Keach on 7/1/2012 at 4:02 am

Sara! I am so excited to follow your blog! I wish you and the team all the best :) Have fun! Can’t wait to hear all about it as you go!
Much Love,
The Girl Talk Team

Posted by: Maryashley Whitaker on 6/29/2012 at 7:10 am

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