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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies and Head Back to 11K Camp

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

And we were getting so lucky with weather to this point... Ah well, we did our best to make use of a break in the snow and wind today. It started, here at 11,000 ft, with a snowy and socked-in morning. Many a team leader came out of his or her tent and then went right back inside, waiting for something better to work with. We were up at 7... but then gave it a pass until 8 and then we took a look at 9 and had breakfast. Things did start looking up by 10 and a few teams went for it. We liked the trend by 11 since we were seeing a lot of blue sky above (the uppermost part of the mountain was still in cloud) and only some indication of wind here and there. We were wearing our spikes and carrying our ice axes out of camp by 12:20. Our intention was to carry food and fuel up and around Windy Corner, cache it and then drop back down to 11 camp. The first hour went great. That was spent on "Motorcycle Hill" which was far steeper than any hill we'd tackled so far on the climb. From the top of Motorcycle, we could see winds starting to whip at the top of "Squirrel Hill" our goal for the next hour. We topped the hill in a fairly vicious and cold breeze and pushed on into the "Polo Fields" below the end of the West Buttress. From there, we had a good view of Windy Corner, which looked... you guessed it, windy. We decided not to push things too far, although the team was handling everything just fine to this point. We chose a cache site at about 12,850 ft and dug in. The only reason for burying it all is that ravens long ago developed a taste for climber food and a talent for ripping a cache to shreds. We couldn't see any ravens, but by this point in the day we were seeing a lot of blowing snow and swirling cloud again. With light packs, we made good time getting down the hills and back into 11k. We were home by 5:30 and dining in the shelter of our posh tent by 7:00 while the storm intensified. It isn't a terrible storm yet, just some wind and snow, but we hope it plays out overnight and leaves us in peace. Your messages to the web site were passed on to us and were thoroughly enjoyed by all the team. Thanks for the well wishes... keep those fingers crossed. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Daddy (Brian), I miss you and I want to go camping in that orange tent with you when you get home. (Direct quote from Connor)

Hope you and the team had some relaxing down time and that tomorrow brings good climbing weather. Stay safe, we love you!

Posted by: Connor Bulatao on 7/5/2012 at 6:12 am

Hello Brian! I hope that you and the team have a good climb, and I have added you and the team to the chruch prayer list for a safe trip. Love, Mom Bulatao

Posted by: Mom Bulatao on 7/4/2012 at 4:45 pm

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Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Return to Basecamp

June 24, 2023

Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

Saturday, June 24, 2023 7:39 am PDT

We’re at Basecamp and I think there is a good chance we will fly. We’ll let everyone know when we arrive in Talkeetna.

Friday, June, 23, 2023 8:28 pm PDT

The crew descended down to 11,000’ Camp where we will depart for basecamp during the night in hopes of flying off the mountain Saturday.

The weather has not been all that kind to us on this trip and we are in and out of snow as clouds stream up the Kahiltna glacier up and over Kahiltna pass. We’re hoping for flyable weather tomorrow but know that no one has flown off the mountain since Monday. Hopefully the next time you here from us, we’ll Be in Talkeetna!

RMI Guide Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship and Team

Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Do Well With First Real Uphill Climb

June 13, 2022

Posted by: Hannah Smith, Kiira Antenucci, Daniel May

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Sunday, June 12, 2022 - 8:59 pm

Good evening readers,

After sending the dispatch last night we listened to the weather from Kahiltna Basecamp. With the weather, basecamp also reads a trivia question. And guess what? We won it! What is a group of ravens called? An unkindness. And what an unkindness they will do if you don't bury your cache deep enough. So today when we arrived to our cache spot at 10,000', we made sure there would be no unkindness done to our belongings. Once again it was an early start to our day. A few snoozes to the alarm to let the weather clear up a bit led to some oatmeal and packing up half our gear. Carrying half our gear will allow our move tomorrow to be a little more enjoyable. The team cruised up ski hill, stepping over several crevasses, and making easy work of the first major uphill of our journey. Clouds took away most of our views but every once in awhile parts of the mountain showed its beauty. It was a good day and we also got our first taste of moving downhill. Sitting at camp looking up, it's amazing how much more terrain we need to cover. In due time we will get there. Tomorrow we will repeat what we did today plus a little to bring us to 11k camp. Getting to 11k is a great feeling because it will be our first camp we truly get to nest into and enjoy a rest day. For now, we have four minutes till the weather comes on, so we will end it here.

Happy reading,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi to the Jasons…
Happy climbing…
Reach for the stars SAFELY
Great reads TY

Posted by: Jo Anne Neas on 6/14/2022 at 7:57 am

Hey Hannah! Wishing you and your Team all the Best on this adventure!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/14/2022 at 3:41 am

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Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum & Team Practice Crevasse Rescue And Improve Camp

May 27, 2021

Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 7,300'

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 11:54 pm PT

Another bluebird day here on the Kahiltna Glacier. Today was all about crevasse rescue for us. We found a nice big hole about 20 minutes from camp and practiced our haul systems from about 9 am until the sun got the better of us in the early afternoon. We retreated to our tents for our routine afternoon shade session.

The plan was to cover sled rigging and hauling before dinner, but all these perfect warm weather days caught up with the structural integrity of our camp. Our kitchen tent collapsed on itself as its foundation slowly melted away. Not a big deal. We moved it over twenty feet and built a new and improved version. Like so many home improvement hopefuls before us, once we started we just kept going, and before we knew it we had buffed out our entire camp and it was time for dinner.

We’ve got a bit of a weather system moving in over the next few days. It’s lightly snowing as I write. Weather permitting, tomorrow we’d like to pack up some gear and get out of town for a few days, venturing somewhere down on the main fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We’ll wake up tomorrow, see how the weather looks and make our decision then. We’ll check in tomorrow, hopefully from our new home.

RMI Guide JM Gorum

Machu Picchu: Trek & Team Watch the Sun Rise from the Sun Gate and Explore Machu Picchu

July 22, 2019

Posted by: Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Machu Picchu

Elevation: 7,972'

We got up today at 3:30am, this put us in the Sun gate for the sunrise over Machu Picchu and we got a great view. There’s something about seeing glaciers from a high jungle ridge and taking in the most complex stone structures built onto the side of mountainous terrain that’s put the last 5 days into perspective. The steep step section named the “gringo killer” didn’t slow this team of gringos down. Our group has adapted from cold and wet to hot and humid conditions exceptionally well. While this is a hiking trip, the mileage, consistent high altitude, and awkwardly placed stone steps are not for the faint of heart. We toured Machu Picchu for a couple of hours and took in the amazing stone work and sheer size of this important cultural site for the Quechua people. As the crowds began to swell we decided that a beer, warm shower, and burger (that was the actual order) was well overdue so we headed for our hotel. Tomorrow we will take an early morning visit to Machu Picchu and a hike up Huayna Picchu before heading to the train and our return to Cusco. This has been a great trip through the Andes, while a little cold and wet at times we got unprecedented views of the glaciated peaks while hiking through scenic valleys and learning about one of the great civilizations and their impressive achievements. RMI Guide Mike King

Mt. Rainier: A Summit for the Five Day Climb!

July 8, 2019

Posted by: Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Jess Matthews and the Five Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning with perfect weather conditions. The team reported warm temperatures and zero wind. After spending some time celebrating on the summit the team began their descent to Camp Muir shortly after 9:00 AM. The team will be back in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations climbers!

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Congrats! We left some beer in Ashford for you guys to celebrate with. :)

Posted by: Derek Hertel on 7/8/2019 at 9:29 pm

Congratulations team!!! So excited for you!

Posted by: Kris Ramilo on 7/8/2019 at 7:38 pm

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Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Summit!

July 8, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 18,510'

RMI Guide JJ Justman and 100% of his Mt. Elbrus team reached the summit this morning! Everyone is back, safe and sound, at the Garabashi Hut. The team sent a video as well as a photo from their successful summit.

RMI Guide JJ Justman calls from the Mt. Elbrus Summit!

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Congrats, Team Texas Health!

Posted by: Andy Wilson on 7/10/2013 at 2:42 pm

Congratulations Team THR and have a safe trip home!

Posted by: Tenia on 7/10/2013 at 1:00 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team at 7,800’ Camp

July 1, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

It was a little tough waking up at 1 AM, since we hadn't been able to get to bed terribly early, but coffee and bagels got us going. Just as we'd hoped, it had been a clear night and the glacial surface had frozen up good and hard. Conditions were ideal for tackling the lower glacier. This section can be problematic since it is normally heavily crevassed in late season, but we found that the recent snowfall and overnight freeze had combined to bridge things nicely. We set out around 4:30 AM and made steady progress, first dropping a few hundred feet to reach the main glacier and then turning North while working up small hills and inclines. The packs were heavy and despite the fact that the fully loaded sleds were sliding easily along, we were all pretty thankful for the short rest breaks each hour. It was good hard work, but we didn't have much in the way of glitches or problems. The last two hours of our push were conducted in bright sunshine with a great view of Denali's south face. The West Buttress stood out clearly in relief. We pulled into our intended camp at 7,800 ft at about 9:15 AM and got to work. In no time, we had tents, a kitchen, a dining area, a latrine and the start of several significant naps. It was a day for power lounging and for catching up on hydration. We rallied for a group dinner since Solveig Waterfall was serving up excellent burritos, but then the naps resumed. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Richard, Great progress - Non-stop to the top, Best Wishes.

Posted by: Ritesh on 7/3/2012 at 5:27 pm

Richard - we are keeping tabs on you and your team. What beauty of nature you must be viewing! Blackie and I are keeping good thoughts of you and look forward to sharing your climb stories. XOXOXOXO Genny

Posted by: Genny on 7/2/2012 at 9:21 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry to 14K Camp

June 15, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Climbing consistently gives you opportunities to improve, especially on Denali. A summit day is possible only after weeks of getting in position. During those weeks we are dedicating ourselves to improving all aspects of our game. This morning we took the lessons of yesterday's approach to go pick up our cache at Windy Corner. Getting ready in the cold morning will pay off as we move higher. The crew did well on the back carry and the little bobbles in our rigging were addressed when we got back with everyone taking a little time to do some homework dialing in their cold weather systems. Tomorrow we will rest here at 14,000', reviewing fixed lines, running belays and if we have some visibility, taking a short cruise to THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for some views. Then it all depends on the weather, but the team is feeling great. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Fathers Day Jim! Hope you are having a fun adventure. Halsey: sunscreen!!! Give each other a hug for us. Love Anne and Jack

Posted by: Anne on 6/16/2012 at 11:36 pm

Ross and K,

Keep plugging away! Take some pics tomorrow at the edge of the world. Been thinking of you guys today, hope all is well with tent life and the elements. Try to keep everything dry! A dry hand is a happy hand. Your in the middle of it, enjoy the views. -Dave

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/16/2012 at 8:36 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker & Team Getting Ready for Summit Attempt

April 6, 2012

Posted by: Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 16,685'

Hey Mark Tucker here checking in from Island Peak Base Camp. Well, know sooner than us signing off from the dispatch yesterday that it started to snow and pretty much continued throughout the night. Had a pretty good blanket when we woke up. You know.... was enough so that our move up to high camp was probably not the best idea. So we stuck around down here... Now I'm looking down..... So we did a little hike up towards Camp 1 just to kinda get a feel for it and the conditions so we're all ready for that. Now we're packing and adjusting and fidgeting with gear all day today. Resting, eating... a little bit earlier than normal because being down at Base Camp so we are going to start looking at the weather around midnight. Just finished a nice dinner and we're going to crawl in the bag. Start resting and hopefully get a few hours of shuteye. We don't really need to sleep for this event, we just need to rest. We've got a bunch of batteries stored up so we are looking good... We'll check in with you guys progress in the near future. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

Mark Tucker checks in from Island Peak Base Camp.

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies and Head Back to 11K Camp

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Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Return to Basecamp

Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Do Well With First Real Uphill Climb

Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum & Team Practice Crevasse Rescue And Improve Camp

Machu Picchu: Trek & Team Watch the Sun Rise from the Sun Gate and Explore Machu Picchu

Mt. Rainier: A Summit for the Five Day Climb!

Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Summit!

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team at 7,800’ Camp

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry to 14K Camp

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker & Team Getting Ready for Summit Attempt

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