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We left
Camp Muir this morning at 4: There was a cap over the summit from the outset of our climb but we were thankful the winds from yesterday evening had abated and hoped the cap would follow suit.45 a.m. in reasonable winds. The team took to heart the lessons learned at yesterday’s climbing school and climbed strong on the upper mountain in deteriorating conditions.
I began the route finding effort up the Ingraham Direct but gave way to
RMI Guide Zeb Blais as he led the team up to a break at 12,800’. As we switchbacked our way up the mountain, we encountered increasing wind speeds and steadily decreasing visibility. We made the smart and safe choice to call 13,400’ our high point for the day. On our descent to Camp Muir, clouds would billow up from below causing white out conditions followed by periods of visibility. This process repeated continually until we returned to Camp Muir.
We’re back at Camp Muir safe and sound. We are looking forward to a low-key afternoon at camp with a siesta and some easy training on the schedule.
Signing off for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides
Elias de Andres Martos and
Leon Davis were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams returned to Camp Muir at 7:45 am from their high point of 12,700'. While at Camp Muir the teams will gear up for their descent to Paradise; we look forward to greeting them when they arrive back at Rainier Basecamp later today.
Ecuador Skills Seminar 2013 is coming to a close. Although we did not attempt to climb the tallest of our three chosen mountains which should have taken place today, we settled for a 17,500 foot consolation prize, Illiniza Sur. We left our hostel this morning at 1 am and began the two hour approach to the hut at 1:45. Forty five minutes into the hike we had to stop and don rain gear to ward off the cold mist that was beginning to soak us. By the time we reached the hut the mist had turned to snow. Sadly the weather was not the only thing going south. By the time we were ready to depart, Jaime our local guide was too ill to continue, Suzanne was too knackered from her battle with a loose gut and Jan began to have stomach cramps. By the time we filed out, only Gary and Clark were able to ascend with both
Casey and myself. With a one to one ratio the steep, technical terrain we encountered was greatly entertaining. Not to mention the weather broke just as we were approaching the glacier. From bottom to top and back again, this climb was a fantastic way to end our time together as a climbing team. I am really bummed we could not all stand on top together but tonight we become a party team. It is always important to remember the summit isn't everything. Tonight we are all ready for a grand fiesta of both food and spirits. Our time in Ecuador has been packed with good laughs, good climbing and great people. We will miss it. But now we are all deeply anticipating the reunion with family friends and ice climbing. Thanks to everyone who followed along and gave support. Hasta mañana.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
This morning (or night, depending on your point of view), the intrepid Team Blackberry/iPhone, awoke to darn near perfect climbing conditions and decided to give the old lady a shot. Our high camp had positioned us perfectly for a good shot at topping out on the first of our big volcanoes for this trip. We left under dark skies, high above the town lights of Amecameca and Chalco far below us. We walked steadily through the rocky glacial debris at the base of the Ayoloco Glacier, skirting the previous night's accumulated hail and gaining the ridge just before first light. Once on the ridge we bundled up because even though in Mexico it can still get cold in the wind at 17,000 feet. From the ridge we handled our new challenge of cold temps until gaining the true summit of Ixtaccihuatl as the sun broke over the horizon, illuminating our next adventure, Pico de Orizaba. After a few photos and some summit celebrations, we steeled ourselves for the descent back to our high camp and the homemade soup of Rogelio's (our trusted driver) wife, waiting for us at the trailhead. Easing our way back into wheeled transport, we stuck to the backroads, avoiding the weekend traffic and checking in to our hotel in the zona historica of the colonial city of Puebla. Tonight we will feast and enjoy a good night's sleep at relatively low elevations, using tomorrow to explore the city and recuperate for Pico de Orizaba, the highest mountain in Mexico.
Sunday, January 9, 2022 - 7:22 pm PT
Today was our last day in Mendoza before heading closer to the mountains. At the thought of leaving the comforts of civilization all the climbers made sure to indulge in one last cup of gelato from the corner tienda. After ice cream we were required to complete one last covid test while in town before we would be approved to enter the park. Don’t worry! Everyone on the team was negative. With climbing permits in hand we moved higher into the mountains through the deep valleys of the Andes. We left the hot and dry Mendoza valley behind and entered the beautiful, lush village of Uspallata where we were relieved to find much cooler temperatures and a bit of afternoon rain. Soon after arriving at the Grand Hotel Uspallata, we got to work packing our expedition duffels for the mule team that would ferry our heavy gear up to basecamp for us. After many hours of packing and sorting group gear we sat down to a wonderful group dinner, our last indoors for awhile, before turning in for some much needed rest. Tomorrow we start our trek to basecamp and the first leg of our journey to the summit. Wish us luck and stayed tuned for the next episode of Aconcagua 2022!
RMI Guide Nick Scott
The
Four Day Summit Climb July 10 - 13 led by RMI Guides
Andres Marin and
Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The teams reported clear skies, light winds and beautiful day. Both teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 am PT. They will return to Camp Muir for a brief stop before continuing to Paradise later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Our Climbing Team was up early again today with Camp 1 as the goal. It was still a little windy at Base Camp but not as much as yesterday so our climbing Sherpa headed out in front of the group again to set tents at Camp 1.
We have a nice spotting scope here at Base Camp that allows me to follow the teams progress for the majority of the climb to Camp 1. It can be a beautiful dance the way you climb in the Khumbu Ice fall or an ugly representation of how not to do it. If I were a judge on Dancing with the Stars our team would be moving into next weeks competition.
Dave and Sara were very fluid in there ascent working as the lead team with Linden and Bill right behind.
As Expedition Leader Dave Hahn sets the highest standard and expectation possible of his team this making this hazardous endeavor the safest possible.
Lots of challenges exist on this push to Camp 1 which we cannot eliminate, but moving with strong technique, knowing the smartest and safest places to take a break and when to push a bit harder and faster will get you to camp in reasonable shape. We want everyone arriving at Camp 1 feeling good and with enough reserve to help your body recover after such a work out.
We received a radio call just minutes ago informing us that the climbing team is minutes away from Camp 1. Nice work team!
Till next time
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Wednesday, June 22, 2022 - 9:43 pm PT
We set out at 6:30 AM today for a carry of food and fuel. Skies were clear and winds were calm as we walked through the early morning shadows up Ski Hill. Ski Hill wouldn’t actually have been such great skiing with about a half dozen crevasses opening up, but it wasn’t bad for walking. We enjoyed great views of Denali’s steep South Face and of the rocky southern aspect of Kahiltna Dome. Our loads were considerably lighter than those we carried yesterday and we made good time. The terrain got easier as we cruised along the plateau before Kahiltna Pass. We cached at 9700 ft at about 10 AM, burying the supplies deep enough to thwart the ravens. It took just over an hour to descend to camp, by which time the sun was getting quite strong. We did a few camp chores before diving in the tents to snooze the afternoon away. It was burrito night on the Kahiltna. We filled up and most of the team was getting ready to turn in -under skies that had clouded up- by 7:30.
The plan is to move on up to 11,000' Camp tomorrow if the weather cooperates.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello again everyone.
Just one more day to go before we reach our goal of
Basecamp! Today we arrived in
Gorak Shep, the original Base camp that early expeditions used. Being that this is the last stop before the normal BC it is rather small, only about 4 tea houses here. Originally we were planning on climbing Kala Patar this evening, but due to reoccurring stomach issues and clouds rolling in we have opted for a morning ascent. The standard weather is clear in the morning and clouds in the afternoons, so hopefully it will continue to be the same.
Just so everyone back home knows, I have spoken to a few doctors about the issues (just mainly upset stomachs) and they have informed us that there have been many trekkers with similar symptoms this season.
Everyone is still smiling, just not all day long.
We are looking forward to Base Camp!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Another excellent day on ice. We enjoyed an absolutely calm and beautiful day today as we broke camp down low and moved up high. We got moving by 2:15 PM (as usual it was bitterly cold before the sun came around at 11:30 AM) and moved well and efficiently up the steep fixed ropes. Our training from the carry two days ago and our rest from yesterday seemed to be paying dividends as it took just six hours to reach high camp. The tents were pitched and dinner got cooked. Naturally we talked over our plans and hopes for tomorrow. It could be our shot at the top, but of course everybody must have a good night first, and we need continued luck with the weather.
Best regards from 13,000 ft,
RMI Guide
Dave Hahn
Zeb led the way for Mariana and I out of Camp Muir on June 20, 2010. He got us up to Ingraham Glacier before returning with climbers. Mariana and I continued to the summit, led by Solveig Waterfall. I will always be grateful to Zeb for his kind and thoughtful pace out of Muir . . . I’ve not seen him since, but want to send a big hello his way and the heads up that I will be forever grateful to him for his efforts that Father’s Day. Thanks, Zeb!!!
Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2014 at 9:58 pm
Thanks for keeping my guys safe and sound! Think warm thoughts! Hugs to Mike and Steve
Posted by: cathy on 4/16/2014 at 7:59 pm
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