The summit bid is getting close. This is how I know:
1. Dave, Linden and Tuck (aka Mark Tucker who is called everything but 'Mark') are constantly huddled around the latest weather report, which seem to come out every 2 to 3 hours. The weather forecast is murky (which is better than it being bad). What Dave, Linden and Tuck seem to know is that no big storm is on the horizon, but the jet stream seems to be on the move. The question is "when" the jet stream is going to move, and then how fast its going to move. We do not want any of our team high on the mountain when the jet stream is over us. We know its going to be cold up there, but what we want to work hard to avoid is high winds. Here is the understatement of the year: the level of difficulty in predicting the weather at 29,000 feet is quite high.
2. Lots of other climbing teams are comparing notes on when to start their bid. It seems that other teams have different forecasts and information, but the conclusions seem to be the same: even the people making the forecasts don't have a high degree of confidence in them, and that the forecasts are uncertain.
3. Our entire climbing team of 7 people seem to be fully rested and well (not sick). This means that they have been down long enough to have their full strength and are ready to start climbing when it is determined that its time to go. I keep bugging Sara to "eat more" and "drink more" to build up her strength but she 1) knows what to do, and 2) is tired of listening to me. Everyone on the team has lost their baby fat, some even a touch of their adult fat, on this trip, but we have to keep trying to eat as much as possible to keep our strength.
4. Our Sherpa team has done a phenomenal job of strategically positioning gear on the mountain. We have tents positioned at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (although the Camp 2 tents are the only ones 'up' - the rest are in bags - due to the ever present threats of high winds), and our oxygen bottles and gear are at Camps 3 and 4. We have other gear (food, safety equipment, etc.) at different camps throughout the mountain. It really has been a herculean task to get things positioned.
5. Today we are taking showers. We always take showers close to the day of departure.
6. Sara is trying to get a massive amount of history homework done. Sara always tries to get a lot of work done prior to a week long climb. It is like cramming before a test I guess. She is massively reading (and highlighting) a text book on the Byzantine Empire (Sara occasionally reads something to our group about the era at dinner, and we all pretend that we know what she is talking about).
7. Our entire climbing team is charging all their cell phones an Ipods/Itouches. We always make sure we are a fully charged team as we start off. The Sherpa's focus is on charging their cell phones, which work at the higher camps for some reason, (the non-Sherpa's cell phone coverage doesn't work above base camp). Westerners have to use a service called Ncell, but locals are allowed to use a different cell phone provider that has better coverage up high. Its one of the mysteries of Everest in 2011.
8. Sara, Dave and Linden have all picked out food to eat at Camp 4 (at the South Col). While the team only hopes to stay one night at Camp 4 (at 26,000 feet), they are bringing enough food for up to 3 days (just in case). This food consists of a lot of freeze dried dinners (Mountain House Lasagna), candy bars, cup-o-soups, cheese sticks, etc. The group hopes to climb to Camp 4 one day and then leave for the summit in the middle of that same night, but if a storm pops up (or even high winds), they may stay at Camp 4 for longer.
9. I have picked out a "get fired up" movie for Sara to watch tonight: The Fighter. The movie (starring Mark Walhberg) is based upon a true story, and has several messages, one of which is what incredible sacrifice and determination it takes to be a champion.
10. The Calendar. It is May 16th. I know we are getting close for a try at the summit because we are getting close to the Monsoon showing up. And when the monsoons start, the mountain is closed for the season.
11. All of Everest BC is abuzz with groups getting ready for their summit bids, monitoring their teams on the mountain, or just leaving. Several camps are already gone, having accomplished (or not accomplished) whatever they set out to do.
12. The physicians here are incredibly busy. The HRA (The Himalayan Rescue Association) doctors are a group of physicians whose costs are covered by the various climbing groups to treat clients, guides, porters and Sherpas, They do an incredible job. Many patients are treated face to face, but other times the HRA docs are called upon to help treat climbers who are high on the mountain. They are on call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and are currently working (as I write this) at an incredible pace under tremendous pressure.
13. We are almost out of Coca Colas. When we started this trip Sara and I ordered 24 twelve ounce Coca Colas (for about $40) to have at Base Camp. We have been enjoying them, but self rationing them, since we arrived at base camp on April 6th. We are down to one Coca Cola. I think we are going to split it.
14. Our camp is melting. We live on the Khumbu glacier and our camp is noticeably melting every day. Our tent sites, which were originally flat, are now not, but we are living with it because, hey, the glacier may melt them flat again. Pools of water form in our camp daily and then freeze at night. The base to our Stupa is rapidly melting. We may have to do some construction work in the days ahead.
15. Avalanches are now so common we don't pay much attention to them. When we originally got to Basecamp we would rush out of our tents to see an avalanche coming off one of the many surrounding mountains. Avalanches are now so common (due to the warmer weather) that we no longer rush to view them, or even pay much attention to them, unless they are in the Khumbu Ice fall. Needless to say, the ice fall is an extremely scary place.
So, in summary, this is how I know that our summit bid is getting close: food picking, charging, showers, homework, doctors busy, dwindling Coca Colas, etc..
I am both nervous and excited for Sara. I know how hard she has trained and worked for an attempt at the summit, but I also know how much luck is involved in actually summitting. I know she is very determined and "wants it" very badly, but I also how easily things could change to prevent a summit bid. Three years ago Sara and I tried to summit Mt. Elbrus and bad weather stopped our entire group. Then last year Sara and I went back to Elbrus and had a perfect weather day and made it to the top in about 6 hours of easy walking. Mountain climbing is a fickle business, and it can be
extremely rewarding, and also extremely disappointing. I know that Sara is strong enough to climb this mountain, but one never knows if things will work out.
So, that's it from Base Camp for today.
Bill M.
Sara, Bill! No matter what ends up happening, you two are top of the world from my perspective. The decisions you are making and have made are awesome. Im so impressed. Love, Anita
Posted by: Anita on 5/17/2011 at 9:18 am
Dave Hahn, do you know BILL? Thanks for writing Bill, and thanks for the clinic mention. Give our docs a hug for me? HOpe Sara, Dave, Lindon and Sherps get up quickly and down safely. xox
Good things come to those who wait. At 20 minutes to midnight yesterday, with the Southern Cross shining down on Punta Arenas, we left the continent. We were shoehorned into the cavernous cargo compartment of the Ilyushin 76 airplane, along with about fifty other passengers, a pickup truck and a mountain of gear and supplies. The flight took about four and a half hours and was almost completely lacking in any noticeable turbulence. We passed time by reading, listening to music and simply snoozing.
With about thirty minutes to go, everybody began layering up, tying boots, and pulling on hats and face masks. With perhaps 15 minutes to go, the flight crew turned on a new feature, a big screen TV with the outside view from the nose of the plane. It was absolutely spectacular, like a clip from "Frozen Planet" or "Planet Earth". Surreal beauty, until we felt the wheels under our seats touching the ice surface in the picture. Then it became real as the engines roared to slow the plane.
After the perfect landing, we marched out into the middle of Antarctica. After some photo-ops and handshakes, we shuffled over to a warming hut and then into a modified van for a ride across the glacier on giant tires.
It wasn't to be as far as getting straight out to Vinson Basecamp. Weather there wasn't suitable for a Twin-Otter flight, so after an early morning welcome meal, we built our tents and crashed for a few hours. The weather slowly deteriorated during the day, with cloud building up and light snow falling. That didn't stop us from spending a few hours out in late afternoon to review rope techniques. We rounded out the first day with an excellent dinner and an evening spent chatting with various adventurers on exotic missions on ice.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Five Day Climb August 19 - 23 led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom & Dan May left Camp Muir around 2 am to make their summit attempt. The teams climbed to the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300') before high winds and deteriorating weather conditions forced them to descend. The teams will return to Camp Muir where they will spend another night on the mountain. If weather improves they may be able to do some additional training before descending to Paradise tomorrow to complete their program.
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by JJ Justman and Billy Nugent turned today at the top of Disappointment Cleaver due to difficult conditions. The weather continues to be winter like on the upper mountain and is slowly transitioning into summer. High winds and firm conditions have thwarted attempts and guides are working hard to establish a safe route.
We are expecting Mt. Rainier to release its winter hold on the upper mountain any day now.
Great job, Mark and team! You guys are unstoppable!
Posted by: barry on 6/16/2012 at 6:40 am
Kristen!
We are oh so proud of you, here back at Hanover High School! It’s graduation week and we’re missing you terribly but so happy that you have completed your journey!
We love you and are thinking of you constantly!
Can’t wait for you to get home!
Love,
Asie
After much discussion and hearing a favorable weather forecast for the next few days, we decided that an extra day at 11,000' was the best way for the group to rest and acclimate so we are strong for our move to 14,000'. We are looking to move tomorrow and are expecting good weather for pulling into camp.
As for today, we lazed around all morning in the posh, but had to move outside as the day progressed. It was way too hot to hang out in tents or the posh, a rare treat for a May Denali trip. I think today was just what the doctor ordered for us to move up in style tomorrow. Everyone is feeling strong, well-rested, and ready to camp in beautiful Genet Basin tomorrow night. We'll hopefully be checking in from 14,000' tomorrow.
Hope all is well at home,
RMI Guide Maile Wade and crew
Wow! sounds like all is going well. What a great please to have your birthday on the 19th! so HAPPY BIRTHDAY my girl I love you tons be safe
xoxoxoxoxo Mom
Our Aconcagua team moved to High Camp. The winds stopped as if a switch had been flipped around 9:30 last night. The eerily calm night led to another calm and hot day. The summit winds were still high with snow blowing 1,000 feet into the sky but have begun to calm down, or all the snow has vacated the summit. We will get some rest, eat and hydrate before turning in for the evening. Sleep is hard to come by at 19,600'. Hoping for a successful summit day tomorrow. We'll keep you posted!
Love reading the updates. Keeping you all in our thoughts and prayers for a safe and successful summit. Brother Mitch, we love and can’t wait to hear all about your adventures.
Posted by: Marianne Harvey on 1/14/2023 at 10:05 am
After a couple of relatively inactive days, we left base camp like a bunch of caged animals who had recently tasted freedom for the first time.
The crew walked across the Kahiltna with confidence and strength under a clear Alaskan night sky, only a few clouds hanging like ornaments from the peaks of Denali, Foraker, Crosson and the Kahiltna dome.
We made it to camp one in great time, the snow having frozen to a beautiful supportable crust that felt more convenient to walk across than a city sidewalk, and the temperatures were ideal for carrying heavy loads.
We are now hiding from another boisterous Alaskan sun, watching the snow melt and looking forward to some much needed and deserved rest before we wake up this evening to hopefully carry tonight.
RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and Team
BREAKING: Tom Brady has was released by the Tampa Bay Buccaneers early Sunday morning after the NFL concluded that he will be stripped of his prior 6 rings due to more confirmed allegations of cheating.
We left Camp Muir this morning at 4: There was a cap over the summit from the outset of our climb but we were thankful the winds from yesterday evening had abated and hoped the cap would follow suit.45 a.m. in reasonable winds. The team took to heart the lessons learned at yesterday’s climbing school and climbed strong on the upper mountain in deteriorating conditions.
I began the route finding effort up the Ingraham Direct but gave way to RMI Guide Zeb Blais as he led the team up to a break at 12,800’. As we switchbacked our way up the mountain, we encountered increasing wind speeds and steadily decreasing visibility. We made the smart and safe choice to call 13,400’ our high point for the day. On our descent to Camp Muir, clouds would billow up from below causing white out conditions followed by periods of visibility. This process repeated continually until we returned to Camp Muir.
We’re back at Camp Muir safe and sound. We are looking forward to a low-key afternoon at camp with a siesta and some easy training on the schedule.
Signing off for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Zeb led the way for Mariana and I out of Camp Muir on June 20, 2010. He got us up to Ingraham Glacier before returning with climbers. Mariana and I continued to the summit, led by Solveig Waterfall. I will always be grateful to Zeb for his kind and thoughtful pace out of Muir . . . I’ve not seen him since, but want to send a big hello his way and the heads up that I will be forever grateful to him for his efforts that Father’s Day. Thanks, Zeb!!!
Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2014 at 9:58 pm
Thanks for keeping my guys safe and sound! Think warm thoughts! Hugs to Mike and Steve
After two days of rest at 16,400 feet we woke up this morning to strong winds. So strong in fact we had to do some midnight tent repairs. We saddled up our packs and leaned into the wind. The team is now at Camp 2 settled in their tents at 18000 feet. Everyone is great and we are happy for a new view overlooking the Andes.
Unfortunately, one of our climbers wasn't feeling well at Camp 1 and had to descend. He returned to Mendoza and has been checked out by local doctors. We are glad to hear from him this morning that he has been released to fly home. We hope to see him in the mountains again soon.
RMI Guide JJ Justman and Team
Hey dad! (Lew Smith) Kim has been keeping everyone well abreast of the situation with the climber that had to descend and we wish him the best. We hope you are doing well and that you will be able to go for the summit today, weather permitting, of course! Love you and we are so proud of you!
Kyle and Steph
Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/27/2014 at 6:09 am
Lew, I hope today is the day for ascent! Good Luck and God is with you.
Mike
Lulled to sleep by rock and icefall, what a night at Everest Base Camp. A few comments that it was the best dinner since arriving in country. Short lived this time, we are already back in Pheriche gearing up for Island Peak. Should be deep sleep tonight here in the thick air of 14,000 ft. We'll bid farewell to the Trek team in the morning. As usual a whirlwind tour for the group. Lots of firsts for all. Once again the mountains provided fantastic views with perfect weather. Times like these are what bring you back to challenge the physical and mental. In time the photos will overshadow the tough conditions you are subjected to on trips like these. Maybe Hawaii next time, but I bet down the road another adventure of this type just can't be avoided.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
L & P- A Dream realized!....and you are changed forever!! Kudos. YEA!!
You epitomize YMNTBP!! Our Congrats to the entire team!! Thanks again, Mark…yes we think more Adventures will be in the offing!
Much love M & G
Posted by: Gretchen & Mike on 4/2/2013 at 9:06 am
just love following “team tucker”!!! what an adventure!!! safe trek to pheriche!!! tons of hugs buzz…Nancy
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Sara, Bill! No matter what ends up happening, you two are top of the world from my perspective. The decisions you are making and have made are awesome. Im so impressed. Love, Anita
Posted by: Anita on 5/17/2011 at 9:18 am
Dave Hahn, do you know BILL? Thanks for writing Bill, and thanks for the clinic mention. Give our docs a hug for me? HOpe Sara, Dave, Lindon and Sherps get up quickly and down safely. xox
Posted by: Dr Lulu on 5/17/2011 at 7:52 am
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