We left Kislovodsk early this morning, making the 45 minute drive north out of the foothills and into the farmland to the Mineralnye Vody airport. Getting checked in was a smooth affair and before long we were airborne, heading northward to St. Petersburg.
We touched down in the early afternoon and navigated the mayhem of the Pulkovo domestic terminal to retrieve our baggage and drive into town. The difference between St. Petersburg and the Caucasus as well as Moscow is striking. Built by Peter the Great and modeled after European cities, wide boulevards are neatly aligned through rows of classically built buildings, painted in shades of pastel colors. Constructed on swamp land, miles of canals help drain the city and water is everywhere with bridges and waterways weaving throughout, giving the city the reputation as the "Venice of the North".
Our hotel sits right on the banks of the Moikya Canal, a few minutes stroll from the historic center of St. Petersburg. We arrived early enough to have some time to explore the city on our own before our tour tomorrow. It was another long day of traveling and after an excellent dinner we are turning in for the evening.
Well, we have gone off the map. Or at least out of cell phone range, and the internet is not working up here at 14,250 ft in Lungdhen, so we are coming to you via satellite. The team was -once again- surprised to wake in Thame surrounded by beautiful mountains. The normal pattern, clouds in afternoon and an evening with crystal clear mornings will produce that kind of morning surprise. Today the peaks were extra stunning at first light.
We set off at about 8:20 up the broad valley, pointed north toward the Tibetan border. We had left the trees behind, so today there were just low shrubs and grasses, and a big roaring tumbling river (as usual). Without coming to any single big hill, we gained altitude steadily through our 6.5 miles. We sat for tea a while in Maralung before taking on the final push up to the Kwangde View Lodge in Lungdhen. We did one of our typical eat and rest afternoons as the clouds came around outside. It is a little cooler up here, and we aren't so far from the snow now.
We will explore a little tomorrow and stay a second night. That should offer our best chance at proper acclimatization before we try to get over the 17,600 ft Renjo La.
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6 a.m. this morning. The team climbed above the clouds and experienced great route conditions.
Congratulations to today's Team!
Photos by Jason Thompson, see more of Jason's photography here.
Hello everybody back home. This is Casey Grom checking in from the Ecuador's Expedition. I just wanted to check in to let everyone know that all's going well. We had a nice leisurely day today at Chilcabamba. Got up this morning, got things packed up and had about just over an hour drive up to the parking lot to the Cotopaxi Hut. We got out of the car little bit of cloud and took us about 40 minutes to hike up a nice easy trail to get up here to the hut. It sits at about, oh just shy of 16,000'...(transmission lost)
RMI Guide Casey Grom
RMI Guide Casey Grom checks in from Cotopaxi's Hut.
What a difference a day makes. Things didn't seem a whole lot better, first thing this morning. Talkeetna was still a little dim and grey with low cloud lurking as we headed out to the airstrip. It took a few hours of waiting for things to come around. Our pilots figured out a clear path in to the Kahiltna, despite a fair amount of lingering clouds hiding the mountains. What we were able to see was stunning and spectacular, as if to make up for all that was hidden. Unbelievably steep and immense mountains began to pop up all around us as we entered the heart of the range. Glaciers, snow and random ice seemed to hang on every possible flank. The K2 pilots did their normal perfect approach and landing with the big ski equipped DeHaviland Otters. We'd taken off from town at 11:30 AM and we were unloading gear on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna 35 minutes later. At basecamp it was intensely sunny and warm with no wind whatsoever. The cloud cover evaporated and we were treated to grand views of Mount Hunter, Mount Foraker and even Denali on occasion. We built camp and began reviewing glacier travel techniques. There was plenty to get done and we worked throughout the afternoon and evening at divy-ing loads and getting rigged for an early morning move to camp at 7,800 ft. What we could see from the planes backed up what we've been hearing from other climbers... conditions on the lower glacier are excellent.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Climbs August 10 - 13 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jackson Breen. It's a beautiful day with clear skies and great views. The teams enjoyed some time on top before starting their descent from the crater rim around 6:40 am. Once they reach Camp Muir they will take a short break and then continue the final 4,500' to Paradise.
Yesterday's weather started out looking pretty decent, but it shut down pretty quickly and we were forced to remain tent bound. This morning is much nicer and we should finally be able to move to 11,200' Camp. We'll check in again soon, hopefully from up higher.
Update Saturday, May 30th 8:30 pm PDT
Summit day! We decided to do something a bit unorthodox and wake up and leave early without the sunshine. Usually it would make for a really cold couple of hours, but the temperatures have been unseasonably balmy. It had the added advantage of getting us out ahead of several other teams that were heading for the summit also. The deviation worked out perfectly and we had a nice warm morning to walk, with no other teams in front of us. The skies stayed crystal blue all day, and 6 1/2 hours or so later, we were standing on the highest thing around! We had a good half hour on the summit, snapping pictures and taking it all in, before chilly breeze convinced us to head back for camp. We are back with plenty of time to brew up dinner and watch the later teams on their descent. It was a special day and everyone's really excited. It was especially great to have the whole team make it to the top. Tomorrow we turn our sights downhill and start the journey home!
Pete, Robby, Josh and team
Saturday, May 30th 3:32 pm PDT
This is RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calling in from the top of Mount McKinley in Alaska. We just touched the summit; it's just past after 2 o'clock in the afternoon. Our group and Mike Walter's group summited today in short order. It's a really, really nice day up here--sunny, light winds, and relatively warm as far as Alaska goes. The whole team made it up. It was awesome, Really great day and everybody is excited. [cheers] We'll give a shout when we're back at 17k Camp safely and soon we'll be back in Talkeetna before we know it, heading downhill. Alright, talk to everybody later.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley.
Here we are! Base Camp! The team made it Down from high camp in 50 mph winds. It was a tough day packing up but the weather calmed down as we descended. It's a slow gradual zombie descent. However, as soon as people see the tiny little tents of base, people's spirits soar.
Now in base camp we are sucking down juice and wearing flip flops. The team has a little bit of packing to do and then we are off down the trail to finish the mountain part of the adventure. Tomorrow we will head to Lenas, which was our first camp on the trek in. I usually tease our climbers by telling them we are going to have chicken ramen for dinner. However, I think another giant steak asado is in order. After all, when in Argentina! Especially after a safe and successful summit of South America's highest peak!
RMI Guides JJ Justman and Leah Fisher and Team
We all agreed that carrying a load of food, fuel and gear 2500 vertical feet up the fixed lines was hard. It was steep (both going up and coming down) it took a long time (7 hours round trip from low camp) and it was sometimes too hot and sometimes too cold. It felt a lot like mountain climbing. Today we had crampons on our feet and axes in our hands, unlike the last couple of sled dragging days on the low angled approach glacier. So all around, it was pretty tough, but we did it. We got those unreal Antarctic views as we got higher, spawning questions like "Is that ice way out there or is it cloud?" (It was both). Our hope, of course, is that by doing such tough work today, by going so high (11,800) and by coming back down to sleep and rest through tomorrow, we'll be stronger, more familiar with the route and better acclimated to the altitude. That may be, but at any rate, it sure was fun climbing today. It was a little cloudy which seemed to hold some heat in the air, making things a bit easier. The two teams above us apparently made the summit today, which is great, we'll see them tomorrow on their descent.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
the most amazing event i have ever experienced!
Posted by: eric u. on 6/24/2013 at 10:09 am
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