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We thought we were moving up to
High Camp today. No dice. It was too windy up high. Although it was sunny and calm where we stood at Low Camp, we could see big streamers of snow jetting out from the ridge we wanted to be on. We packed up about halfway anyway and ate breakfast watching to see if things eased. Radio communications with the teams already at High Camp confirmed that it was miserable and cold up there and that they were just in hunker-down-and-wait mode. We did the same, without the misery. If anything, the wind got a little worse in the early afternoon, chasing snowy dust devils all the way to the base of the fixed ropes. We thought for a time that the wind might work on over to Low Camp, but we were spared. The afternoon did get a bit cold though when the sun ran into a high stationary cloud sitting west of the mountains. My team took it all in stride, retreating to books and sleeping bags for a second rest day. In other places, such winds wouldn’t be a big deal and you could push on through, but with the colder temperatures we deal with down here, there’d be too much chance of frostbite and hypothermia. We’ll wait for a better day.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Today we continued to descend the
Gokyo Valley towards Khumjung, "The Green Village", which, with its twin city, Kunde, hosts the largest population of Sherpa people in the Khumbu. Sightings of the smaller, yet impresive Ama Dablam, Tamserku and Kantega peaks reminded us we were back to the proximity of the lower lands where we started ten days ago.
Upon arrival to Khumjung, we visited its monastery, which believe it or not, conserves a scalp of the Yeti!!! We saw it ourselves. We continued to circumnavigate the perimeter of the two villages following long mani stone walls (fence like dwellings made with flat slate stones engraved with prayers and mantras) which, along with the mist and the domesticated yet majestic yaks, delivered a great deal of Himalayan mysticism.
We're now in bed, and bound to Lukla to finish the trek.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
The sprinkles began today at noon. The full-on rain came at 1 PM, but by then we were snug in our new camp at Shira 12,600 ft. The day had begun clear for us down at Machame, and we were treated to our first good views of Kibo,
Kilimanjaro's central peak. We set out from camp at 8 AM and got walking up steeply rising rocky steps in a forest of giant heather. The sun was on us -but only for about a half hour before clouds came over. We kept working uphill, eventually in fog and a little murk. The day involved a number of rock steps that required a good handhold or two to negotiate. We were wearing rain jackets by the time we turned a corner onto the Shira Plateau. We actually finished by walking several hundred feet downhill to reach camp. The rain didn't let up until after dark, but it just made it a little easier to stay inside and rest. We still gathered in our nice and dry dining dome tent for meals and tea time and to share climbing stories. By the end of dinner, the sky was back to stars and planets and the Milky Way. We'll hope the moisture takes a break.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
July 1, 2017 12:18 a.m. PST
This time we did it. But it wasn't easy by any means. As usual, there was murk and cloud around at 5 AM, but we could see the
West Buttress and we couldn't see signs of big wind blowing. We packed up and ate a last low altitude breakfast. The team was climbing by 7:45 in light snow. We didn't have the perfectly packed trail this time and in the poor light of the mild shadowy whiteout, it sometimes felt as if we were climbing by Braille. At the top of the fixed lines, the crest of the Buttress wasn't universally friendly. When the sun prevailed, we were too hot and when the wind and cloud ruled, it could be kind of raw and mean. What was definitely friendly was crossing paths with
Mike Haugen's victorious descending team. Climbing Washburn's Thumb at 16,600 feet was strenuous and exhilarating. The airy ridge walk after that felt slightly less airy with cloud filling the void on either side of the crest. It took us 8.5 hours, with some glitches and minor setbacks, but we got up to high camp. The weather improved at 17,200 ft as the clouds fell far below us and the sun made everything comfy and magical as the evening progressed. We'll likely rest tomorrow, but that doesn't mean we won't be looking out early to check conditions.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
May 17, 2016 - 12:29 a.m. PDT
I woke up at the chilly hour of 5:00 a.m. to start the stoves. It was a perfectly clear morning with barely a breath of wind. After a hearty breakfast we packed our backpacks with supplies to cache up above the fixed ropes. We started climbing in the shade, as the sun still had not poked out around the
West Rib. The cold temps were perfect for climbing and we warmed up quickly. After an hour and a thousand feet of vertical gain, the sun welcomed us at our first break.
We continued climbing and employed our mechanical ascenders to aid us up the fixed ropes. A couple hours later we were on top of the West Buttress proper. The team climbed hard today and we accomplished our goals, with one team putting a cache in below Washburn's Thumb (16,700'), and the other team pushing on to high camp (17,200') to establish a cache. We're all back at camp and in our sleeping bags now after a long day of climbing. A much deserved rest day awaits us tomorrow.
RMI Guide
Mike Walter & Team
Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by
RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under clear skies, with warm temperatures and a light breeze. The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent from the crater rim just after 7 am PST.
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens made a sunset climb last night and reached the crater with 100% of their team.
All three teams will descend to Paradise today and return to Ashford to conclude their programs.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Hi all,
Not much new to report from our basecamp here at
Plaza Argentina. The physical output and exertion on yesterday's carry is hopefully triggering our bodies to take advantage of today's rest and accelerate our acclimation process. We're spending the day eating good food (egg & prosciutto scramble! cucumber, tomato, and melon salad!), napping, and tying up loose ends in preparation for tomorrow's move up to
Camp 1. We've been listening to the hippies over at the freelance porter tent jam away on their drums and recorder. While not exactly relaxing it's at least a bit comical. Anyway, hoping for a good night's sleep, provided the porters have jammed themselves out, and don't play another night into the wee hours of the morn... We'll check in again tomorrow evening and let you know how it all went.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Day 11 on the mountain.
We woke up at the 14 camp once again chilly but not quite as cold as the previous night. Everyone prepares for the day and makes their way to the mess tent. Hot water is ready! Coffee is essential, and then Cinnamon Toast Crunch with powdered milk and warm water. It is actually very good!!
Since coming to 14,000’ Camp, we have been admiring the headwall which directly faces the camp ascending about 2,000’ above. Today is our day to ascend and cache supplies. The headwall is like motorcycle hill on steroids! We made our way up to the bergschrund near the top and where the fixed ropes begin. The first step over the bergschrund was fun and exciting to ascend for most! And then using our ascenders made our way up to the top on the ropes. The incline is probably 60 degrees, and the practice yesterday was very useful, for most of us, it was the first time using these ropes and gear.
We all made it and cached our stuff. Descending was equally perilous but a bit more fun and of course, a lot faster! Wrapping the rope around our arm we just leaned forward and walked down. (I personally really enjoyed that!). We made it back to camp a little tired but excited to have ascended.
This place is incredibly beautiful but also can be merciless. This place has some of the most amazing views I have ever seen and dangerous corners and crevasses. It’s a place where you can simultaneously get sunburn and frostbite. We are constantly taking layers on and off. It can be so cold to have to wear a parka and then in a few hours just a T-shirt. Having the right gear and guidance is so important. We are blessed to have three outstanding guides. Dom, Seth, and Nicole. They are very capable, knowledgeable, and kind of superhuman! So, rest assured to all our loved ones at home, we are in very good hands.
We are also far enough along in this trip to start missing home and in particular our friends and families. For me, I miss my family, my kids Max, Emma, and Sophie mostly. Cannot miss this opportunity to tell you how proud I am of all three of you!!
Tomorrow is rest day, and then hopefully we scale the headwall again up to 17,000’ camp.
RMI Climber Cary Idler
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Denali Expedition June 9, 2024
Greetings!
Another beautiful day here in Huaraz City! We woke up early this morning with one final acclimatization day scheduled here in town. We took it up a notch, however, and we shuttled up to the
Lake Churup Trailhead at the foot of some of the higher peaks outside of Huaraz. A couple hours later, we were relaxing lakeside at one of the most beautiful lakes in the Range. Words don’t do it justice, so we sent pics!
This afternoon, we were back in town putting the finishing touches on our packing and our normal lives before we head into the mountains for a week. First stop, the Ishinca Valley. We have some training planned, as well as a couple climbs...not to mention some delicious eating from our cooks up there! We’ll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Robby Young and Team ‘No Swimming’
Happy New Year from Quito, Ecuador. I am happy to report the entire
Expedition Skills Seminar team has arrived safely and is ready for a fun evening enjoying local culture and spirits. Our fiesta will come on the heels of a great day which involved a number of interesting and fun activities.
To begin our first official day together we met after breakfast going through a quick team introduction and itinerary overview. At 9 am the streets outside were already filling with eager New Year’s enthusiasts, some dressing in drag and some wearing colorful wigs, but we passed on joining them and loaded onto our tour bus bound for the middle of the world. Once at the equator, we observed fun physical anomalies only present on the actual equatorial line. Much of our group earned their “Egg Master” awards, balancing an egg on a nail, while others tried to shut their eyes and walk the line without tipping over. Why an egg will balance on a nail but a human can’t balance with their eyes closed is beyond me but proves to be the case.
Outside of the museum, the team encountered a group of locals partaking in the local custom of burning large dolls supposedly filled with the year’s bad energy. As it burns you are supposed to make a wish for better things to come, then leap over the burning pile to make that wish come true. Stephanie showed no fear in giving her wish the best chance.
From the equator we traveled south into the old town of Quito where we gained beautiful vistas of this 40 mile long city atop a hill called El Panacillo. Unfortunately, there were no views of our snow capped peaks but we know they are out there. After this we descended into the old town where we toured some traditional shops and streets then finished in the main square of Quito directly across from the presidential palace.
Despite most of the team feeling a bit tired from traveling and jumping straight to 9000', we left time to have a late lunch at a great little micro-brewery trying it’s best to replicated those in the states. Although the IPA needs a bit more hoppiness, the stout proved our favorite.
Tomorrow we gear up for our first acclimation hike. Stay tuned to see if a few in the group break their previous altitude high points. Late night or not, I have high hopes…..
Happy New Year once more. Salud.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
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Best of luck to Pat and Lynn and the rest of the team for a safe and fun climb !
-Mike
Posted by: Mike Sowa on 9/21/2017 at 10:03 am
It’s great to wake up and see how the day has gone for the team! Hope there are clear skys the next few days. Sending lots of love to Colin and Steve <3
-Jacqs
Posted by: Jacquelynn on 9/21/2017 at 8:08 am
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