Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Update

June 23, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Summit! The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by JJ Justman and Kel Rossiter stood on top just after 7:15 a.m. Snow and sometimes rain was falling on the summit and the teams are currently in a mountain cloud cap. Both teams recharged and refueled in the summit crater before starting their descent at 8:25. Although precipitation was falling, the guides reported pleasant climbing conditions and an excellent route. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

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A big congrats Gautam!Gritty G! Proud of you.

Posted by: Bhaktha on 6/29/2013 at 9:16 am

Congratulations Gautam!!

Posted by: Mahadev on 6/26/2013 at 9:40 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Carry Heavy Loads to 9,600’ Camp

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Greetings from Pete, Geoff, Robby and Team, Under cool temperatures and partly sunny skies, we moved uphill again this morning from our camp at 7,600' to 9,600'. The slopes of Ski Hill offered up our first significant climb of the expedition given our full loads weighing down our packs and our sleds. After building camp at 9,600', we continued to lighten our loads and fill our bellies by feasting on soups and Tasty Bite delicacies, followed by some hot beverages and storytelling. Our team is feeling strong and weather looks accommodating for a move to 11,000' camp tomorrow morning, where we'll finally post up for some rest and acclimatization. RMI Guides Robby, Pete, and Geoff

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Aloha Gail,
IMUA, from Kihei Charter.
We are thinking of you and the entire team.
Safe climbing.
Aloha
Gene

Posted by: Gene on 6/26/2013 at 3:35 am

Guapo,
met someone this morning who has also climbed Rainer, and a few others;is climbing Denali in 2015 with his dad and brother. I got his name for you, he’d like to meet you!
I see you have a team member from Kihei!....I bet you wish you were feeling those temps instead, but the views where you are now? They really outshine Kihei!
We miss you and are following your progress. Lots of cheering coming from Facebook
Have a great climb tomorrow
Guapa

Posted by: marion on 6/23/2013 at 8:10 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 16,600’

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Movin' on up! We woke up early and set out to cache some gear up high. Even though the sun was not on us, we thought it was warm for 14k camp. We were wrong. As we set out towards the fixed ropes that allow us to climb the steep face up to 16,000 ft safely, a cold wind picked up and made us cold...like Denali cold! I think we needed it because we were getting a bit spoiled. Once we gained the ridge, we were out of the wind and in the sun and immediately life was better. We decided to make a cache a around 16,600' under a prominent rock feature called Washburn's Thumb. We cached some food and fuel for when we head up to our last camp at 17,000' in a couple of days. I was really impressed at how everyone did at the altitude and on the fixed lines. Go team! Rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

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Lance’s little ones are off camping with the dinosaurs the next 3 days . BUt we will be thinking about you all and wish you warmer wind and fantastic next few days

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/24/2013 at 6:30 pm

Enjoy your day off, but I am sure you will find something to pass the time. This team likes to stay busy it seems. Tell Q the Bruins are at home tonight for game 6. They trail 3 to 2. Should be a great game 7 this week. Go Bruins!!

Posted by: George on 6/24/2013 at 5:05 am

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

June 22, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

After a relaxing night at the hotel Casa Sol, we headed to the world famous market in downtown Otavalo this morning. Here the indigenous Otavaleños display their artisan craft goods, including ponchos, blankets, and sweaters woven from the wool of sheep and alpaca, jewelry, paintings, wood carvings, and the like. We spent the morning exploring the market, and now we're about to head out to the climbers' hut on Cayambe, where we'll spend two nights and hopefully get good weather for a shot at the summit. Cayambe sits at an elevation of 5,790 meters, with massive glaciers flowing from the summit. It is the 3rd highest peak in Ecuador, and also holds the distinction of the highest altitude on earth over which the equator passes. The weather today is beautifully warm and sunny, and we are optimistic that the good weather will continue while we are up on our climb. Hasta luego... RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Exciting to watch and hear your progress!! Glad to hear everyone is moving strong and feeling good. Looking forward to seeing you at the top and celebrating your summit!! go, Go, GO!!! Lumley

Posted by: Jennifer Lumley on 6/25/2013 at 5:12 am

Been following and envious! Sorry to hear just 300ft short of Summit - better safe. We will hope for the best on the next climb. Be safe & enjoy!

Posted by: Dan C on 6/24/2013 at 10:17 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 22, 2013 Summit!

June 22, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, Walter Hailes, JJ Justman, Win Whittaker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Walter Hailes called as they reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:59am this morning. The teams have clear weather with light winds, but cold temperatures. They spent some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams! RMI Guide JJ Justman's team was awarded with a beautiful day of climbing up to Camp Muir. The team is keeping their fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow morning!

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What an awesome journey you have just completed. Walking by the full moon in the wee hours of the day to stand on top of the world must have been exhilarating and inspiring. Your hard work was admirable as you put your energy into reaching your goals. I bow gently in respect for all of you. Now…What’s next?

Posted by: Jan Alexander on 6/22/2013 at 5:45 pm

Outstanding pic! Can’t wait to se the videos.

Posted by: Tom Buser on 6/22/2013 at 1:25 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Has a Rest Day at 14K Camp

June 22, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, June 21st, 2013 Ahhhh a day of rest. We did not even move in our tents until the sun hit them at 9:30. We had a morning of slowly cooking pancakes for the group. We believe pancakes are the perfect acclimatization food. We volunteered to be guinea pigs for a medical experiment having to do with high altitude. The test involved having a series of heart rate and oxygen saturation measurements taken and then walk around a track for 6 minutes to see how those measurements change. It was not a competition, but let's just say our group crushed it! If the weather is nice tomorrow, our plan is to move some gear up to 17,000' Camp. On Denali, 60% of the time the weather is good all the time! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

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Any smiley faces in the pancakes? Glad you got some rest. Big storms here (well, yes, it is all relative) but all is well. :)

Posted by: KConstantine on 6/22/2013 at 9:25 pm

Pancakes, huh? Well, OK. But you know, the other teams are reporting Pop Tarts. Since we live at 9500 feet, Bill and I are sure proof that Pop Tarts are the best high altitude food ever made. But if you guys want to eat pancakes, carry on.
Love to Steve & Grasshopper from Lisa, Bill, Taii, & Togo

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 6/22/2013 at 6:56 pm

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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Ascend Fuya Fuya

June 21, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 14,000'

We packed up our luggage this morning, checked out of our hotel in Quito, and headed north, towards the town of Otavalo. As much as we enjoyed our time in Quito, I think we all are very excited to leave behind the hustle and bustle of car horns and traffic, get out into the mountains, and enjoy the views of the snow covered peaks of the Ecuadorian Andes. That is, after all, why we’re here. We summited our second peak today on our final acclimatization hike. Fuya Fuya was the objective this time. At just over 14,000’, the old volcano is lower than yesterday’s climb of Rucu Pichincha but the climbing was consistently steep, from the trailhead to the summit. The trail gained elevation quickly as it climbed thru high Andean grasses, culminating in a short rocky scramble to the summit. Although the summit was in the clouds once again, the weather was terrific for the climb. We were treated to stunning views of the Laguna Mojanda below us, a large lake formed in an ancient volcanic crater. Our team also caught a brief glimpse of an Andean Condor soaring in and out of the clouds around Fuya Fuya. Now we’re all settle in at our tranquil hacienda, Casa de Sol. We’ll have a relaxing morning tomorrow, visiting the Otavalo market, before heading up to the climbing hut on Cayambe for a couple of nights. We’ll keep you posted as always... RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Rainier: June 21, 2013 SUMMIT!

June 21, 2013

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Solveig Waterfall, Nick Hunt, Steve Gately, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Solveig Waterfall reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported clear weather with a cap on the summit, and the new route via Camp Comfort great to climb. The teams spent some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!

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Wahoo! This is a day to remember, huh?
We are soooo proud of you!

Posted by: Vicky on 6/21/2013 at 10:17 pm

Yooray! Such an achievement! So proud.

Posted by: Gerri on 6/21/2013 at 3:42 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Fly into the Alaska Range

June 21, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Thursday, June 20, 2013 We have begun! Talkeetna was warm and sunny this morning, with perfect weather for flying into the Alaska range. We had our last big breakfast at the Talkeetna Roadhouse, putting down heaping portions of eggs, toast, and reindeer sausage. Within an hour of finishing, we had the two Otters loaded up, and were climbing on board for takeoff. The scenery flying in is always stunning, and our excitement built as we watched the lush green swamp land give way to glacial toes, rocks, and finally, the steep and imposing walls of the Range. We had a great view of Denali, before banking sharply and descending to base camp. With record setting warm temps this week, we had to set camp at basecamp and wait to move until tonight to give the glacier time to freeze up. So we had a leisurely day of sorting gear, rigging sleds, and getting our kits dialed. It will be an early morning for us as we try to make it to the base of ski hill at 7,600 feet tomorrow before the sun turns on the heat! We'll be in touch! RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and gang

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Buenas Guapo!
Looking forward to hearing how things went today.
The pictures are beautiful; so glad the sun is shining for your team.
We are thinking of you.
The Pets are all fine!
XO Guapa

Posted by: marion on 6/22/2013 at 7:09 pm

We’re eagerly awaiting more news about the climb. Michael, we’re thinking of you.
Mom & Dad

Posted by: Sara Doherty on 6/22/2013 at 4:36 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Make Their Move to 14K Camp

June 20, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, June 20th, 2013 We made the move. The wind was blowing most of the night last night. I set my alarm for 2:30 a.m. just to see if the weather was going to allow us to move up camps. Right when my alarm went off, it was as if someone hit a switch and turned the wind off. We got up, packed up camp, and headed up another 3,000 feet. The move only took us about six hours to hike, but we had to work hard building snow walls once we arrived at Denali's 14k camp. This camp, as much or more than the other camps we have been in this far, can receive huge winds that pick up at a moment's notice. We used snow saws to quarry blocks of snow to make walls that surround our tents. All of this hard work will pay off with a full rest day tomorrow. The sun does not hit this camp until around nine in the morning. I am pretty sure that none of us will be out of our tents until he sun warms us up! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

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What is the temperature range at 17,200? Is it balmy? (“No such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing”?) We’re hoping for both to be good, and for all the luck possible!

Posted by: Kathy Uchal on 6/22/2013 at 6:23 pm

Great to see your progress!! Hope the weather holds up. Mtn Mo

Posted by: Mo on 6/22/2013 at 4:33 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Update

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Carry Heavy Loads to 9,600’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 16,600’

On The Map

Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 22, 2013 Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Has a Rest Day at 14K Camp

On The Map

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Ascend Fuya Fuya

Mt. Rainier: June 21, 2013 SUMMIT!

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Fly into the Alaska Range

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Make Their Move to 14K Camp

On The Map

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