Entries from Mt. McKinley
May 30, 2014 - 7:43 pm PT
Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! The
Upper West Rib team arrived in Anchorage yesterday afternoon and shuttled north to Talkeetna, our launch site for the mountain. Right now, this sleepy little town is bursting at the seams with climbers waiting to fly onto the glacier. The skies are overcast and the planes have been grounded since early in the week. Everywhere you look, there are softshell clad people trying to pass the time.
Our team was distracted from the constant refreshing of weather websites by plenty of prep work today. After meeting with the National Park Service for a general orientation, we rolled our sleeves up and got right to work. Eight hours later, our bags are packed and we will head to dinner to discuss the only thing on waiting climber's minds... "when will the clouds break?"
For now all we can do is relax and know that we are prepared whenever that eventuality comes about.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
May 30, 2014 - 6:29 pm PT
Our team is still at
Kahiltna Base Camp waiting for the weather to improve so that we can fly back to Talkeetna. This is day 23 of our trip and we're all getting antsy in anticipation of a hot shower, food, and flush toilets.
We picked up another eight inches of snow over night, and the precipitation has continued pretty much all day. We're hoping for a break in the weather in the next few days so that planes can get in to Base Camp.
That's pretty much all the news from this end.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
May 29, 2014 - 11:07 pm
The team got through their first night here at 14,200' in splendid shape. Most actually got their best nights sleep of the trip.
Although we got a few extra winks of sleep this morning, we got up early enough to pick up our cache at 13,500' and were back before noon. This allowed us plenty of time to get in some training before we hopefully make a carry up the fixed ropes and finally on to the
West Buttress, the namesake of our route up Denali.
But before we could call it a day and enjoy some quality time relaxing in the tents, we built a 'proper' latrine complete with high walls to protect us from the wind and blowing snow. These walls do double duty to afford us some much appreciated privacy as well.
Walls were also built up around our tents, which will be of huge benefit if the forecasted winds appear tonight.
We'd like to end with a parting shout out to three generations of Greg's family celebrating their birthday today. Happy Birthday Sarah, Robin and Ken!
Good night everyone.
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
On The Map
May 29, 2014 - 7:22 pm PT
Today has been more of the same from the last few days: snow, some light winds, and evidence of strong winds up high. As the weather continues to stall groups here at
14K camp, more and more groups have arrived to join the community. When we arrived, 14K Camp resembled a tiny village of tents and snow walls, but sprawl has taken over and camp looks more like a city everyday. As the population grows, so does the sense of community, since everyone is dealing with the same problems. When they announce the weather over the radio at 8 pm, small clusters of climbers come together across camp to listen and discuss afterwards. As you walk through camp, the weather is on everyone's tongue; what is it going to do tomorrow, when will the window come, and what is causing this pattern is discussed a hundred times a day. A small barter market of food, toilet paper, and entertainment has sprung up. It feels like a small emptiness opens every time a team runs out of days and has to head back downhill, but their space (both physical and psychological) is quickly filled by the arrival of a new group. All of this helps to keep us patient and sane as we wait. Tomorrow will likely be a continuation of this trend, but the awaited window does seem to be showing itself in the forecasts, so the end may be in sight!
Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, and Josh
On The Map
May 29, 2014 - 5:55 pm PT
Winter's grip on
North America's tallest mountain stays strong, while climbers surround the flight office in anticipation of what lies ahead. A sudden roar, cough, cough, an engine turns over. A lone pilot off to scout the weather towards Basecamp takes off from the Talkeetna air field. With him he carries the hopes of the climbers on either end. So far, no one has made it in or out, and we stand by, sending good wishes and warm thoughts to our friends currently sitting on the mountain.
Here in Talkeetna we are lucky to have a meal in arm's reach, to enjoy one another's company, share stories, learn new skills and refine the existing ones. A team bonds, creating an experience that each of us will remember for a lifetime. But for now we wait, hope, and learn. For this is just another day of one intrepid group in Alaska.
All the best for now.
RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett and Bryan
May 29, 2014 - 3:55 pm PT
We awoke again to the faint patter of snow hitting our tents rainfly. Sticking our head out revealed slightly better visibility than when we tucked away in our sleeping bags last night. Looking east you could make out the lower features of Mount Hunter and looking west you could scarcely make out the lower flanks of Foraker. Sometime late morning the clouds began to break ever so slightly and the sun poked its head in through the clouds just enough to cause the many teams waiting here at camp to stir. Over 14" of new snow has fallen since we first arrived and that's a concern for when our flights are able to pick us up. The accumulated snow makes it difficult for the small bush planes to take off from the glacier. So an effort was organized to gather the folks in camp to strap on there snowshoes and skis and go pack down the take off zone. Shortly after our task was finished the clouds descended and took over the southeast fork of the
Kahiltna again. It's early afternoon now and we're still patiently waiting for conditions to improve, but with plenty of food and camp becoming busy with teams moving down from the upper mountain our team is biding their time making new friends and reacquainting with teams we shared time with at 14 camp. All is well here from the Kahiltna. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Steve Gately and team
On The Map
May 29, 2014 - 12:06 am PT
Greetings from beautiful
Talkeetna, Alaska! The entire team finally arrived today, after one of our team members experienced a slight delay coming up yesterday. We had a great day here, spending most of the morning talking about the personal climbing kits, the gear we'll need and the food we'll eat, and what to expect in the days to come as we prepare for our grand adventure in the heart of the Alaska range.
We met with the park service this afternoon, and then headed back to the hangar to finalize packing. Our team is dialed and as a result we had no troubles as we culled out the superfluous gear from what we brought. Everything's looking tight and right, and we're all excited to get underway. While the forecast doesn't look incredibly promising, we'll be ready to launch at a moment's notice tomorrow, and we hope to be on the glacier soon. We're standing by, filled with anticipation for the expedition and respect for the task ahead. Stay tuned for more details, and keep the positive vibes coming!
Until next time,
RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, and Bryan
On The Map
May 28, 2014 - 10:33 pm PT
Evaluating the weather at 6:20 this morning from the vestibule of our tent I saw a somewhat similar scene to what I saw yesterday. With one exception. A little lightness shining through the clouds to the north. Faint in the early morning light, but there it was. So with that small glimmer of hope that the weather might cooperate for us today, we set the wheels in motion. Stoves were fired up and the call to wake up made. Still uncertain if the weather would improve enough, we held off packing up the tents until last.
But finally the clouds parted enough to give us the confidence to head to
14,200' camp. We could see the sun about 1,000' above the clouds we were in. Unfortunately, Mother Nature didn't want to make it too easy and threw some gusty winds our way on Squirrel Hill. It seemed like the weather might be changing, but everyone was climbing well so we persevered and by the time we got above that hill, things had mellowed out. Even Windy Corner wasn't too bad.
We eventually made it to camp at 14,200' where the sun was out and it was warm and pleasant. To make things even nicer, we were greeted by the RMI group ahead of us who were camped there. Led by Pete Van Deventer, the whole team came out to lend us a hand getting camp set up.
Everybody had great appetites at dinner, a good sign given that we had just moved 3,000' to our higher camp. It was a tired, but very happy team that put down bowl after bowl of Ramen tonight.
We're all ecstatic to be here tonight, and I couldn't be prouder of how the team climbed today.
Well, it's about time that I hit the sack as well.
Goodnight!
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
On The Map
May 28, 2014 - 11:25 pm PT
We weren't surprised to wake up to more snow and evidence of winds up high today. It's part of the process, and it took the team one glance up to the
Buttress to know that we'd be sitting in camp again today. To combat the sitting, we made a checkers/ chess board, with jolly ranches and butterscotch for checkers, and Robby's artistic renditions for chess pieces. The forecast we got tonight looks like it may be another few days before we get our window, but spirits are high, and we're very comfortable here at 14 until that time comes. We're keeping our fingers crossed for the shift in weather we're looking for.
We'll be in touch tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team
On The Map
May 28, 2014 - 10:18am PT
Good morning from
Base Camp!
We are listening to the snow fall while we sit in our tents, and although it seems bright and cheery from inside the orange nylon walls, this weather system has settled in and the South East Fork is thick with clouds.
We made quick work of the walk down from 14 yesterday, stopping in at 11 Camp to dig up our cache and say hello to Brent, Leah, Nick, and their team.
It's much warmer down here, but consequently the snow is wet, heavy, and saturating, so we are all enjoying more time sitting "indoors" of sorts.
Hopefully we get a break in the storm soon and K2 Aviation can get us back to Talkeetna!
RMI Guide
Mike Walter & Team.
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There you are!
Hi to all of you.
Im glad to see you guys getting ready to move on.
Thanks for the postings. That’ll be one of the greatest accomplishments. I look forward more updates of your progress. Good luck.
Love you,
Jesse :)
Posted by: L. Rosales on 5/31/2014 at 2:26 pm
Thanks for the visual of your location! Glad that you are safe in Talkeetna. Loved the moose! Thinking of you all constantly! I love you John!!!!!
Posted by: Patricia Stenderup on 5/31/2014 at 7:30 am
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