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Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum & Team Practice Crevasse Rescue And Improve Camp

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 11:54 pm PT

Another bluebird day here on the Kahiltna Glacier. Today was all about crevasse rescue for us. We found a nice big hole about 20 minutes from camp and practiced our haul systems from about 9 am until the sun got the better of us in the early afternoon. We retreated to our tents for our routine afternoon shade session.

The plan was to cover sled rigging and hauling before dinner, but all these perfect warm weather days caught up with the structural integrity of our camp. Our kitchen tent collapsed on itself as its foundation slowly melted away. Not a big deal. We moved it over twenty feet and built a new and improved version. Like so many home improvement hopefuls before us, once we started we just kept going, and before we knew it we had buffed out our entire camp and it was time for dinner.

We’ve got a bit of a weather system moving in over the next few days. It’s lightly snowing as I write. Weather permitting, tomorrow we’d like to pack up some gear and get out of town for a few days, venturing somewhere down on the main fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We’ll wake up tomorrow, see how the weather looks and make our decision then. We’ll check in tomorrow, hopefully from our new home.

RMI Guide JM Gorum

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Ishinca!

Hello, good morning. This is the Peru climbing team calling from the summit of Ishinca, 5,530 meters. It's 9:45 a.m. local time. I'm going to let you know how the crew is doing... [Team's happy cheers!] I hope that was a good enough sign. We had a heck of a climb this morning. The team crushed it. We are having a really good day. We've had some easy weather the last couple of days but this morning from sunrise to right now, nothing but blue skies. The views from up here are astonishing, and we'll let you know when you see the pictures. We will keep you posted of our schedule. Tomorrow we are going to take a rest day and we'll see what the next couple days bring us as we wrap up the program. We call you back and I hope everybody is doing well at home. That's it for now. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calls in from the Inshinca summit!

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Awesome, Lucy and Corell!!! So excited for you and the rest of the team!!!
One more to go!
Can’t wait to hear about it all, and to see photos!

Corell- the boys are home from Philmont—Colman is filled with stories—not the least of which is waking up to a lightning-induced forest fire ~100 yds away across the creek. A nascent forest fire that their group actually alerted the nearby staff/ranger camp about, and the same fire that made the papers back here… YIKES! we are fortunate the group leader got up earlier than the others to make coffee—noticed the flames filling the trees just across the creek, then went to the tents with the sleeping boys and said, “Boys, we might have a bit of an emergency here…”  Colman said they had never packed up so fast!!!!

Thurston’s group was not on same trail, but apparently saw the flames…think both groups were diverted a bit. I think the fire was finally contained a week later…
But oh my!

Hoping your adventures are challenging—- but not so dangerous!!
XOXO

Posted by: Dana Marie on 7/8/2014 at 8:53 pm

Great job, Lucy.  So good to hear everyone is climbing well and the weather is cooperating.  All is well in VA.  Love from all 5 of us.  C

Posted by: Carter on 7/8/2014 at 6:39 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 1st Summit Climb Update

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Kel Rossiter and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Mark Falender reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Kel reported calm and sunny conditions, a beautiful day on top. They are descending back to Camp Muir and we look forward to welcoming them back in Ashford later this afternoon.
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Wonderful that the weather has cleared for the top-out.  We received a note early yesterday from Alysse that all was well—that was important!  Thanks and we will see and talk with you soon.

Posted by: Bill Rossiter on 6/1/2014 at 2:48 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Bring Cache From 13,600’

First and foremost, the biggest event of the day was Pete's birthday--14K on a sunny day is not a bad place for a party. Today was a bit a work and a bit of play, or rest anyway. We started by moving the 13,600' cache. We moved the cache and carried the cache to 14K. Resting at the cache spot before our carry, we could hear the water flowing underground, deep under the glacier. The trip back to camp was smooth and everyone arrived back far from flippy-floppy. We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon in the peaceful oasis of our surroundings. Though we all could certainly get used to that lifestyle, we're also eager to make the most of this weather and the team's strength, so we're heading off to bed soon to get ready for tomorrow's carry up the fixed lines. RMI Guide Kel Rossiter

On The Map

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Understand you are going to the top Monday Yahoo have a good day. Almost there.
Sending lots of luck to all of you.

Posted by: Judy Blaisdell on 5/26/2013 at 9:40 pm

Hey Bob,

Can’t wait to see those pics. Enjoy every minute and be careful. Love Ya

Posted by: Judy Blaisdell on 5/26/2013 at 8:38 pm


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Back to Union Glacier

Just like that, we went from a high cold camp on Vinson to a low, warm (relatively) camp on the Union Glacier. It was hard work, as usual, knocking down tents, getting packed up, and getting in some breakfast this morning, but we did it. We started walking down the mountain at 10:30 AM. The fixed rope descent was a workout with the big packs, but it all went smoothly, as did repacking for sled travel at Low Camp. A few beautiful hours of glacier trudging brought us to Basecamp. We packed, repacked and enjoyed the sunshine and big views of Mount Vinson as we waited for our airplane. The Twin Otter swooped onto the strip and we loaded up. Our flight back to Union was even a little more spectacular than usual as our pilots wanted to check on a few climbers in a seldom visited cluster of steep mountains just south of the Vinson and Craddock Massifs. We landed at Union just in time for a delicious sit-down (in chairs, that is) meal in the grand dining tent. It was fun to see all of the other climbing teams again and to catch up with the ALE staff. Quite a change for my small team after these past few days of solitude. We are living in the lap of luxury now and are perfectly positioned to catch our flight north on Dec 29th, should conditions allow it. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Reach Approach Camp 2

Today we left camp to the sound of our herreros singing as they packed up the mules for Casa de Piedra, today was again hot, but as the temps rose, our tailwind turned into a headwind and kept us cool. The team did great today, handling day two of our approach and just before camp we were treated to a spectacular view of Aconcagua and Cerro Amenghino. We even saw two guanacos loping down valley as we pulled into camp! Nice to see our objective at last and tomorrow we all look forward to making our basecamp on the mountain. PS is it the end of the world as we know it? We feel fine. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to all of you
Watch out for the reindeer.
Bud

Posted by: Bud on 12/24/2012 at 9:21 am

Madhu, Take care of your health and have a great time with your team.

Posted by: mommy & daddy on 12/23/2012 at 5:58 pm


Alaska Seminar: Team Moves to 7,800’ Camp

This morning we woke to clear skies and chilly temperatures. After warming our hands with breakfast and hot tea or coffee, we packed up camp and tied into our ropes to leave the basecamp area. The goal for the day was moving to 7,800' camp on the main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier. We enjoyed pleasant temperatures and excellent conditions on the glacier, enabling us to make the trip in just under five hours. As one of the first teams to arrive for the day we were able to move into some pre-dug tent platforms. The peaks surrounding us are shining in the sun and shimmering blue ice is all around. Quite the view from our new home. The weather forecast is great and we are looking forward to our next few days. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Jason Thompson and the AK Seminar team
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Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum & Team Focus on Skills at Kahiltna Base Camp

Monday, May 24, 2021 - 11:13 pm PT

We made it in to base camp last night. We landed at our new home in the Alaska range around 7pm and got to work building camp. It took us about two hours to get settled in, and then we had a late dinner consisting of Talkeetna’s finest Mountain High Pizza Pie. It’s hardly ever a bad call to fly on to the glacier with four large pizzas.

This morning we had a leisurely start, waiting until the sun hit our tents around 8am. We drank some coffee and ate some toasty bagels, and then we got to work. Today was a skills focused day. We worked on footwork, rope travel, knots, and anchors. We didn’t venture too far out of camp, but we did do a little tour of the new neighborhood. Along the way we scoped out some crevasses that should work nicely for practicing rescue in the next few days.

We’re turning in now, tomorrow we’re going to get up a little earlier and put our newly practiced skills to use on a smaller climb close to camp. We’ll let you know how it goes.

RMI Guides JM Gorum

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Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team Reach Casa de Piedras

Hola from Casa de Piedras! Today's weather was a total contrast to yesterday's, as we wound our way further up the Vacas Valley. We woke this morning to clear skies that turned to sun as it cleared the canyon walls. It made for a pleasant walk as we covered the nine miles or so from camp last night. A light breeze helped to keep things from getting too hot. The trail crosses the river over a small foot bridge immediately out of camp. Once on the opposite bank, it alternates between following the river bank, and rising over a chain of small bluffs. Casa de Piedras is located at the mouth of the Relinchos Valley and river. Tomorrow we will cross the Vacas, and leave this valley behind as we ascend the Relinchos to base camp at 14,000 feet. Everyone is in great spirits (it's amazing the power that big orb in the sky has) and sends their best. Tomorrow we'll touch base from Plaza Argentina! Cheers, RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and Team
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The mountains were his masters. They rimmed in life. They were the cup of reality, beyond growth, beyond struggle and death. They were his absolute unity in the midst of eternal change.”
― Thomas Wolfe, Look Homeward, Angel

Posted by: Janet on 1/23/2013 at 6:15 am


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Smooth Sailing

What a day! Right from the start everything fell in place perfectly. Our last breakfast at the Roadhouse was savored before we made our way to our air service, K2 Aviation, who were great about getting us off the Tarmac ahead of schedule. This set us up to walk out of Basecamp at a reasonable hour, which allowed us to reach camp at 7,800' by 5:30. But the real highlight of the day was just how well everyone climbed and dealt with what is usually a pretty tough day. I'm impressed. I must say, though, that the weather cooperated today too. Warm temperatures, blue skies and calm winds might have had us perspiring just a tad, but I didn't hear much complaining about it. Although some evening clouds formed while we were having dinner, I think we might have a good day tomorrow as we make our way up Ski Hill to 9,500' camp. Talk with you then. RMI Guide Brent Okita

On The Map

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