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And the progress uphill has started! We made a carry today to Depot Camp, right at the edge of the glacier, where we deposited some hardware, gas, tents, boots...Our goal is to have our kit in position where we need it, without having to carry it every time. As expected, the first venture into the 6000m vicinity was exhausting, and the "morrainy" terrain contributes to it. However making progress, laying eyes on the route, and continuing with the acclimating process is all a great payback.
Our strong Sherpa team continued until close to
Camp 1 (they are the first ones to set foot on Shishapangma this season) and had success finding a good passage through the massive penitentes field that we have to cross just after Depot Camp. Imagine a moon-like area that presents some of the most intricate climbing of our route, that is what we will have to cross shortly after leaving Depot Camp.
We're now enjoying a rest while our cooks Purna and Aital finish preparing our dinner. With our yak drivers gone until our departure in a month, only another small team of 3 French and 1 Australian (with their couple Sherpa and cooks) are issued to climb here this season here. It's definitely an off the beaten path mountain!
Wishing you all well,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Good evening from Huaripampa, our camp on our way to Artesonraju Base. For the writer here, starting the Santa Cruz trek from this side has been a revelation of yet undiscovered beauty. We're currently enjoying an incredible dinner of fresh trout, zucchini soup and fried banana, fueling for tomorrow's hike. We're all enjoying social time and laughter inside or pyramidal dining tent.
Stay tuned on our progress,
RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Eric Frank, Peter and team
Hi everyone! This is RMI Guide Adam Knoff checking in from Ecuador. We reached the summit of
Cayambe this morning on what turned out to be a beautiful day. Last night at dinner we were nervous about the climb; it was pouring rain outside. Would it clear for our climb? Would we even be able to leave the hut?
My alarm went off at 11:00 p.m. and when I went outside to check the weather I saw stars in the sky. Our climbing window was open! It turned out to be a great climb. The rain last night didn’t hamper our efforts. We had a great route with great local guides. The team did an awesome job. On the summit we had views of Antisana and smoky Cotopaxi.
Now we are back down and waiting for our bus to take us
Guachala, the oldest hacienda in Ecuador. Our bus is delayed by rain, the same rain that made us nervous at dinner last night is now delaying our pick-up. Delays are part of the game so we take them in stride but I must say that this delay is definitely increasing our appetite for a juicy hamburger…hopefully soon we will be able to satiate our appetites.
Until next time,
RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt, and team
On The Map
Hello from High Camp on
Kilimanjaro. We are having great weather on this trip so far. We're hoping it keeps holding for a couple more days.
Today was a pretty light day on the trail. We were under three hours moving up from 13,000' to 15,000'. Our plan for the rest of the day is to relax and get ready for the climb. If all goes well we will be near the summit when the sun rises in the morning. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
The
Four and Five Day Summit climb teams led by
RMI Guides Mike Walter and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning via the Disappointment Cleaver route. Mike reported great climbing, light winds and mild temperatures with a few clouds at around 6,500'.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and his
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team climbed via the Kautz route and successfully reached the summit of Mt. Rainier in time to watch the sunset. The team will be finishing up their training today and be back at RMI Basecamp later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
The Four Day Summit Climb, led by Seth Waterfall and Ben Liken, reached the summit of
Mt. Rainier today. Seth reported a fair amount of wind and cool temperatures with clouds hanging around 9,000’. Both teams began their descent at 7:25 a.m.
May 25, 2014 - 8:47 pm PT
Hi everyone!
The team is back at camp safe & sound after an adventurous attempt on
Kahiltna Dome. The predicted weather came in but with less snowfall than anticipated. At 6 am we had enough visibility to leave camp and start up the east ridge. The climbing was great fun and we had just enough visibility to keep going. We passed the high point from the previous seminar by chopping and probing our way up and around the ridge. A great team effort! At 10,700' the clouds came in thick and the snow began to fall heavy and this put a firm halt to our upward progress. So we turned and navigated our way in the flat light down to camp. Despite falling short of the summit everyone was really excited for the adventure and it was great fun to explore new terrain. Tomorrow we travel back to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier in the twilight to see if planes will take us back to civilization.
Good night and see you all soon!
RMI Guide Leon Davis
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Bryan Mazaika reached the Camp Comfort head-wall at 12,500' and were turned due to weather. Eric reported fresh snow on the route and 15 - 30 mph winds. The team is en route back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to Today's Teams!
Hello all!
Another day here in the beautiful Ishinca Valley! However, unlike yesterday’s rain and snow, today was splitter and bluebird! We took advantage of the sunshine and made our way up to the toe of the Ishinca Glacier for some on-snow training. The views of the massive Ranrapalca as well tomorrow’s objective,
Ishinca, were second to none. We all got some much needed rest this afternoon, and are tucked into the tents already this evening, in anticipation of a 2am breakfast and an attempt on 18,143’ Nevada Ishinca tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guides
Robby Young,
Alan Davis and Peru Team ‘Con Gas’
After a late dinner last night the team enjoyed a good nights rest at our hotel, La Cienega. Our agenda for today was quite simple, gorge ourselves on burrito's and drive to our
climbing hut on Chimborazo.
After a simple breakfast of sliced fruit and eggs we hit the road at 10:30AM. We made a short stop at a grocery store to buy water and last minute items before heading to El Rey del Burrito and the biggest challenge of our day, surviving lunch. The small restaurant, located in the bustling city of Ambato is home to the infamous 50cm burrito. That is nearly two feet of tortilla, meat and cheese! Fortunate for us, Jason, was willing and turns out quite up to the challenge, finishing the burrito as if were an afternoon snack! The rest of us were content with spectating. With full bellies we loaded back onto our trusty tour bus and our driver Victor speed off to Chimborazo.
We are all now safely nestled in at 15,000' on the side of the tallest peak in Ecuador. We will get another well needed full nights rest before moving to our high camp tomorrow in preparation for our summit attempt. From everybody on the team, thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
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Art, this must surely be the climb of all climbs for you. I am practically holding my breath reading this and looking forward to the team’s daily progress. Go team!
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 9/14/2016 at 5:07 am
Jarrett:
Excited to hear of your progress to the glacier. Can’t wait to hear more! The “assault” on Bonneville was mixed. We beat the old G/CPRO record but the car’s ignition system broke up at 7500 in fifth gear on the return run. Better luck on your attempt
Posted by: Rick Deerwester on 9/14/2016 at 3:37 am
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