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Posted by: Eric Frank, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,800'
The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Seth Burns climbed the Ingraham Direct Route on Mt. Rainier and reached 12,800'. Firm route conditions kept the team from climbing higher.
The team is at Camp Muir where they are in and out of the clouds. They will spend some time re-fueling and organizing their gear before starting their descent.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Melissa Arnot, Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
On The Map
I’m chewing on my nails in anticipation.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/9/2013 at 10:08 am
Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Trevor Katz, Josh Geiser
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
RMI Guide, Henry Coppolillo checked in from the summit of Mt. Baker this morning. The team enjoyed a great climb and will enjoy their evening at camp before they pack up their things and head back to their cars.
Nice work team!
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Howdy all,
One of the most important traits to have in expedition style climbing is patience. Patience to wait for a window that will give you the best odds to reach your goal: to safely summit the mountain. We are currently testing our patience waiting for the best opportunity for the team to move to 17,000' Camp and go for the summit. Rest days or waiting days can get long and can be quite boring but they are necessary. The down time can be hard and your mind can drift to family and friends and your life back home, but its important to keep your head here and in the game. Lots of tent time, snacking, reading, and Netflix occupy our time. We did get to greet a RMI team who came down from 17,000' Camp after a successful summit. It was fun seeing friendly faces and hearing about the route. It makes us that more excited to get up there. In due time it will be our turn. Till then we wait.
Till tomorrow,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Wishing a great and fair weathered summit bid to the entire team! Happy birthday at my bad a$$ little sister who just turned 20 at 17k!!!
Posted by: Paulina Johansson on 6/22/2021 at 9:22 pm
BJ - thinking of you and continuing to wish you and your group the very best. You’re almost there! I am proud of you and I love you.
Posted by: Anna Geigle on 6/22/2021 at 5:36 pm
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Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
One of the keys to performance in endurance events such as distance running, cycling, swimming, or mountaineering, is to be able to put in a hard burst in the middle of your effort and then recover. We see Tour de France cyclists do this all the time, racing a full out sprint in the middle of a stage, then recovering for the final sprint 60 miles later. Runners do it when they make a break up a hill to get away from the field, and mountaineers need to be able to do it when getting through a tough stretch of Disappointment Cleaver or clambering over the bergschrund on the fixed lines on Denali. The ability to put on a burst AND recover while you maintain your activity is developed through interval training.
There are lots of different intervals that can be tailored to accomplish different goals, from natural rolling intervals (Fartlek Intervals), to the 4x4 interval workout. Another useful set of intervals are ladder intervals.
Ladder intervals are sets of increasing and/or decreasing intervals. Ladder intervals can be done in a variety of terrain, from flats, to rolling hills, to a hill climb. A common ladder set might be to do a 1-minute interval, then recover, then do a 2-minute interval, followed by a 4-minute effort, followed by a 6-minute interval. Once you reach your peak (you’ve worked your way up the ladder), start working your way back down, reversing the pattern. After the 6-minute interval, do a 4-minute interval, then a 2-minute interval, and then finish with a last 1-minute interval. As with all interval training, the goal is to complete each one at a similar pace. The 1-minute interval might naturally be a bit faster, but you want to avoid blowing yourself out in the first couple of intervals so that you are just surviving through the remainder.
Another important component to interval training is the recovery time. Recover for between 50-100 percent of the duration of the previous effort. For shorter intervals, recovery time might be closer to 100 percent (you might recover for 1 minute after a 1-minute interval) while longer intervals may be closer to 50 percent (for the 4 and 6-minute intervals). Recover for long enough that your heart rate has dropped and you feel ready for the next set, but not so long that your heart rate returns to a very low zone 1 or 2 effort level. Recovery is best accomplished actively, at a very slow jog, walk, or spin; after all, the ability to recover while moving is what we are trying to develop.
As with all training tools, the ladder intervals can be adjusted to fit your needs. Using longer sets (at a slower pace) will help to build your lactate threshold, while shorter (and faster) sets will help to build your anaerobic threshold and recovery. These can also be done over distances rather than time, such as on a track. An example might be a 100m, 200m, 400m, 800m, 400m, 200m, 100m. Remember that interval training requires a quality warm up and cool down, both to prevent injury, and allow you to perform and get the most out of the workout.
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Need a refresher on interval training? Learn more about general interval training…
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here!
very impressive post for mountain climber like me.i am very excited to do my next expedition after reading your article.
Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Rajendra Timalsina on 5/14/2019 at 8:18 am
Dave Hahn Calling from Advance Base Camp
Dan, sorry to hear you had to turn back. You did extremely well to make it so far. Look forward to hearing about your trek when you return. Be safe!
Posted by: Steve on 5/24/2013 at 5:49 am
Danno!!!
You made a good choice in trekking with RMI. Your safety is the most important thing here and it’s great to hear that you’re in responsible hands and will be coming back in one piece.
Safe travels and don’t fret. There are plenty more mountains in your future.
Your friend - Jake
Posted by: Jake on 5/22/2013 at 10:08 pm
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest.
On The Map
Congratulations Dan!! Want you to do this so be safe. Thinking of you. Hugs ps it got do hit here I had to start cutting my grass yesterday!
Posted by: Lauralea on 5/2/2013 at 5:21 am
congratulations to Dan on achieving a personal best in his climb. watching your progress and cheering all on in everyone’s success on this climb
Posted by: Marc Zanutto on 5/1/2013 at 2:55 pm
Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Kiira Antenucci, Evan Sather
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
There we were, finished up with our day of training, enjoying the amenities of the Gombu Hut. A screeching howl ripped across Camp Muir - the wind was here. We spent the rest of the evening discussing altitude illness and taking bets on the high score for strongest gust. Ends up we were all wrong, so so wrong. The darkness fell and our winds averaged 70mph with gusts in the 90mph. Things were knocking, shelters were rocking, and we hunkered down. This morning we awoke to thick solid ice rime covering the surface of our world. We affixed Everest style hand lines to the bathroom. Full battle gear mandatory. Today we will practice the most important mountain skill, entertaining ourselves while the storm rages.
RMI Guide Jack Delaney and the Muir Seminar signing off, till tomorrow...
Yeah! Hope it was a blast - we’re proud of you!
Posted by: Lila Blandford on 7/24/2013 at 7:51 am
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