Our Sherpa climbing team went up through the Khumbu Icefall a final time early this morning. The rest of us sat out in the warm sunshine and continued the packing process as we watched the glacier and listened to our radios. It was great to relax, and to be safe, but of course that relaxation wasn't complete until Lam Babu brought the entire team down from Camp One with the final loads. Then the day passed slowly and easily, listening to avalanches and rocks falling off the surrounding peaks. Helicopters buzzed the camp incessantly, either capturing the last film footage of "Basecamp 2013" or looking for riders with VISA cards. Summer is coming to the Himalaya and the forecasts tell us the monsoon is only a few days off. There are still climbing teams on the mountain, but the vast majority have finished and gone home. Tents and puja flags were coming down in every direction today and strings of yaks and porters were taking everything down-valley. Trekkers quit coming around about a week ago as weather down low shifted to cloudy mode. We'll leave base tomorrow and the remaining team will collapse the camp in our wake. It seems hard to believe that we've lived in this place for seven weeks now... That will have to be enough for this year. We'll just hope to hang on to the spectacular imagery and the sense of camaraderie we've built up through the experience. Thank you for following the expedition.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Way to go Seth. I’m proud for you and the entire team - Jon.
Posted by: Jon Keith on 6/17/2013 at 7:05 pm
AWESOME AND WONDERFUL JOB…YOU ALL DO AMAZING WORK…I LOOK FORWARD TO MEETING AND SOMEDAY BEING ON THE TEAM…THANKS FOR BEING EPIC DAVE…SUPERMAN ON THE MOUNTAIN…GODS BEST AND ENJOY ...AIRYSWE
It seemed as though everybody was on the move today. When I looked out of my tent at 4:15 AM, there was a line of headlights strung out like a Christmas parade through the icefall. Some of those lights belonged to our gang. The "first team" of Peter Whittaker and Ed Viesturs, along with a couple of the camera crew, got out early and were making their way toward Camp I. They are bound for a "rotation" up the hill, sleeping at CI tonight and possibly at ABC (CII) tomorrow night. That ought to work pretty good for them, although it won't necessarily feel so good. A first night at close to 20,000 ft. is usually good for a headache and some frustrating insomnia. Then a first night at 21,300 ft (ABC) will be good for... let's see, a headache, some more insomnia, and more of everything that is uncomfortable and mean about new altitude. These rotations up high can't be avoided though. Not if one is serious about eventually trying to spend nights at 26,000 ft above sea level, like we are. I'd hazard a guess that when they come down, Ed and Peter will be pretty happy to rest at basecamp again for a few days... which is also an important part of acclimating. It may be oversimplifying things to say that those bound for the summit just need to mix up intensely hard work and ample rest, time at extreme and less extreme altitudes, and endure terror and boredom for two months... but it does run something like that.
I was looking out of the tent at 4:15 AM because I was putting on my own boots for an important run up to the midpoint of the Khumbu Icefall. At 4:30 AM, I got together with Seth Waterfall, Erica Dohring, cameraman Kent Harvey and producer Cherie Silvera in the mess tent where we each slammed a few hot drinks and bowls of porridge before stepping out into the last shreds of starlight and moonshine. We were walking by 5 AM on what I've come to consider a fairly important mission. Let's call it the Khumbu Dress Rehearsal. I've already explained plenty of the reasons why the Khumbu Icefall is not a smart place to dilly-dally... while also pointing out that the rapid gain in altitude and the difficult climbing make humankind very much prone to dilly-dallying there. When guiding, I want my climbers strong, acclimated and familiar with the weird skills needed for the Icefall... BEFORE they step into the Icefall for real. It is not a good place to have a client or partner stumbling around with exhaustion, obviously, since most footsteps in the Icefall have to be precise in order to avoid crevasses and cliffs. And the worst possible way to come into Camp I for a first night there would be on one's hands and knees, begging for mercy, oxygen and water. That does happen from time to time, but being so spent can make one a prime candidate for fatal altitude illness.
As we chugged up the first ice hills and watched the light begin to hit the highest peaks, it was already gratifying to see how much stronger Erica was than during our initial forays up the glacier. This "dress rehearsal" was undertaken in the hopes of giving Erica the necessary confidence for climbing through to CI... but equally important for Seth and me was our need to watch Erica and gain our own confidence in her abilities. Before we risk our own lives in accompanying her toward her goals, we need to believe she is ready to reasonably go after them. It is a delicate balance. But Erica was doing a lot of good balancing herself as she stepped over bottomless crevasses and kicked up ice-walls on her spikes. Not to say that she had an easy time of it, just that her difficulties seemed no different than anybody else's in the same awkward places. In our second hour of climbing, we moved up the "popcorn" section, which is just a bunch of SUV sized ice chunks heaped against one another like... popcorn... actually.
Erica and I reached the our goal for the day, the "Dum" which is the old Sherpa name for the dump... as in gear dump (in the old days when it took a lot longer to negotiate the Khumbu Icefall, the mid-point was a significant load-carrying goal and even an intermediate camp from time to time). Seth, Cherie and Kent were already there and welcomed us with gloved fist bumps and cheers. Since, at 7:40 in the morning, we were still without the heat of the sun in the Dum, we just took a quick food and water break before declaring the "up test" a success and beginning the "down test".
We began to deal with a lot of traffic, both up and down and this was actually an important part of the test (although I definitely had not arranged with the Russians, Kazakhs, Croats, British, Koreans, Americans and assorted Sherpas to meet on these particular ladders at this particular time). Everybody stayed patient and pleasant and with some careful downclimbing we reached the lowest part of the Icefall and walked into the warm sunshine. Peter, Ed and the team already at CI had been listening out on the radios to make sure we were ok, and it was with great pride and relief that I told them to shut off and save their batteries... we were going to be fine.
Erica passed her exams. She is ready for CI and I'm fully confident that she'll get there with adequate strength reserves. Toward that end, we'll maybe go hiking one more time, rest another day and then come at Camp I ready for that all important first rotation. Oh yeah... that's where they keep the headaches... can't wait.
RMI Guides Peter Van Deventer & Dominic Cifelli led their Four Day Climb July 31 - 3 August teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The groups reached the crater shortly after 6 am and enjoy some time snapping photos and enjoying the views. Pete reported lights wind and a thicken lenticular cloud just off the summit as they started their descent around 7:30 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing the final 4,500' descent to Paradise.
The American Lung Association's Climb For Clean Air Team made a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier early today before low visibility and poor weather forced the team to turn. This team was led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and JT Schmitt. Each team member commits a year to training and raising funds to support the American Lung Association’s mission of saving lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease. The team is currently at Camp Muir and will be heading back to Rainier Basecamp for an afternoon celebration.
Congratulations to Today's Team!
Awesome job CFCA Mt. Rainier Climb Group #1! Thanks for letting Dylan and I join in on your descent from Pebble Creek! Y’all are so inspiring dealing with that insane weather!
Posted by: Leesha on 6/27/2019 at 7:31 pm
Well done CFCA Team! Weather is always a crap shoot! Better to be safe to climb another day! Glad your safe!
June 12, 2017
Hello from our new camp at 17,000 ft on Denali! The team had an early start pack up camp and departed around 7 am. The winds picked up on the West Buttress as we neared the first break. The team had some amazing dance moves as we waited an hour or so for the morning winds to subside. The team climbed strong all the way to high camp in optimal weather. We worked for a few more hours to build camp. The climbers crawled in to have a rest as the guides worked to melt snow and tidy camp. We are now eating big bowls of Annie's Mac and cheese with bacon and soup. The hydration and eating up here never stops. Tomorrow with high hopes of good weather and light wind the team will shoot to stand on top of North America. Send us good vibes!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Matt - Hoping to hear news of a summit soon! Stay safe. Sending love and good vibes for fair weather!! Daisy and I are trying to be patient waiting for you to get back. We miss you so much!!
Love, Colleen
Posted by: Colleen on 6/15/2017 at 6:32 pm
@ John Gunn and team,
you got this!!! hope it all goes well getting to the tippy top! stay safe and hopeful!!! you’ll be down here sitting around the table telling all your stories and eating a home cooked meal from momma in no time!
Well, we barely snuck in a move today from Aconcagua Camp 1 to Camp 2 before the wind started a blowin' and the snow started a snowin'. Fortunately, everyone is tucked away in their tents hydrating, breathing, and getting used to life at 18,000 feet. We are all glad to be here; it feels like the upper mountain is finally within reach. More tomorrow!
RMI Guide Ben Liken
WOW! In awe of your achievement. I have trouble walking the small hills of NEPA.
Not the little girl I remember anymore!
Watching you in awe! Best wishes and travels to you and the team! Stay safe
Posted by: Janet Yontas on 2/10/2017 at 4:19 pm
For ,Dave & Kelly. You are on the cusp of an achievement realized by so few yet admired by many. You climb for more than yourselves. We’re all up there with you and even breathing heavey even at 1500 ft.
Posted by: Nick Lazzareschi on 2/10/2017 at 3:49 pm
A rest day! Yay! We did such amazing things as sleeping in, more turbo tanning, sport eating, walking out to the Edge of the World, more sport eating, fixed line practice, and packing for tomorrow's carry up the fixed lines. Per the norm, the team is in good spirits but perhaps a bit anxious for tomorrow. The weather is supposed to be in and out for the extended forecast so we are planning to stick to our schedule until we are forced to wait.
Hoping for a great day tomorrow, once we get this cache in we will be on standby for good weather and hopefully pulling the trigger on our move to high camp and subsequent summit push...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and friends
Hello GRD from AOMS in Tucson Arizona. We are thinking of you and tracking your progress. Your almost to the top!!! WooHoo!!! Looking forward to the Summit pictures, stories and your safe return!
Enjoy every moment!!! :)
Posted by: Robin Alexander on 5/29/2012 at 9:22 am
Hi Donny. We are so proud of you. The whole family in St Louis is following your team’s progress. Uncle Jim
Today we fled the thin air of 17 camp for the more tolerable altitude of a mere 14,000 feet. It might seem easy but descending was anything but that. The team was definitely still in a energy and hydration deficit from summit day. So on weak, sore and wobbly legs we made our way down the West Ridge, slithered our way down the fix lines and groaned, moaned and hobble down the final hill into camp. Everyone quickly scurried into their tents for some much deserved rest. A hearty meal of bacon mac & cheese was swallowed with gusto and then off to early bed. We still have thousands of feet and many miles before we make it to the airstrip.
Michael!!! I heard of your summit and literally screamed! Love you so much and hear you guys are pacing back down the mountain. Love you so much, was on the phone with grandma just after we got the news of successful summit and grandma was so proud. We love you! Can’t wait to hear all about the experience. Prayers and safe travel vibes to you all. Congratulations team and love to you all!!!
After two days of carrying big packs and moving from near sea level in Moscow, to 8,000' at Base Camp, to 12,000' at Camp 1, it was a fine day to rest and let our bodies catch up to the altitude. We had a leisurely rolling breakfast and coffee session outside the dining hut in the sun, watching climbers on the route above, some still ascending, some descending from their midnight departures. Some of us found nooks to tuck into and devour our books, while others stood around and chatted. Caffeine consumption was a theme for most.
We did a short climbing refresher on the toe of the glacier in the afternoon, double checked that our climbing equipment and skills were ready for a carry to 15,000' tomorrow, and then returned to camp to nap and wait for dinner. The most exciting part of the day was saved for just before bed when Pamela spotted a red fox cruising through camp. Everyone pulled out to catch a glimpse, though the fox was quick to slide behind some rocks, out of sight. Our plan tomorrow is to make a small cache of gear at our next camp, Lenz Rocks, in preparation for a move and summit in short order.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike Uchal, and Team "we saw a red fox and it wasn't the clothing brand"
The weather could not have been better last night and early today. Right now it is snowing lightly. It can sure help to have stable weather conditions for any night at 21,300' and a major bonus to have calm weather for the first night of many at that altitude. The word from above is that the team did well during the night. So well in fact, that Dave was able to rally the team early this morning for a 7:30 a.m. departure and climb to just below the Lhotse Face. That section took about an hour and forty-five minutes. We would call that part of the day, the approach to the climb. Above where they stopped is a continuous steep climb to get up to Camp 3, which sits at 23,900' more or less. Dave reports that since we have been having daily snow, the conditions on the face have improved. What we saw in the earlier part of the month was blue ice on most of the face.
The previous dry winter has created a big gap between the lower angle slopes and the steep face, which is referred to as a bergshrund. If it were a wet winter with lots of snowfall, that gap could be filled in with snow making crossing much easier. At the last meeting of the teams, we decided to send up a ladder to be placed in that area if it seemed like it would help the climbers get on to the steep section. More progress was made by the fixing team above Camp 3. Sounds like the ropes are set to Camp 4, which is the South Col (26,000'), our final camp before the summit push. More work will be needed to improve the ropes from Camp 2 to the South Col but that is huge to have the initial set in place. Dave, Sara, Bill, and Linden plan on getting on the face tomorrow. This will be a taste of steep climbing at extreme altitude.
The team is right on track and fired up!
Till next time,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
SAYSEE!!! just wanted to say hi and tell you that i love you more than anything! and keep pushing and fighting and everything will be worth it in the end. you are so amazing for doing all that you are doing and i am so proud of you! we all miss you here and can’t wait to see you but for now we are here cheering you on! i think about you everyday and how incredible this is. know that you are in our prayers and you inspire me so much, it’s incredible! i really do love you more than you know- to heaven and back! you’re the greatest sara rose. -emma
Posted by: Emma Payne on 5/1/2011 at 5:37 pm
Hi Linden! Helped deliver my sissys baby 1 day old, in Georgia near the Tornado! Would rather be climbing in Nepal EXCEPT FOR HIS CUTE LITTLE FACE! GOING VERTICAL
Way to go Seth. I’m proud for you and the entire team - Jon.
Posted by: Jon Keith on 6/17/2013 at 7:05 pm
AWESOME AND WONDERFUL JOB…YOU ALL DO AMAZING WORK…I LOOK FORWARD TO MEETING AND SOMEDAY BEING ON THE TEAM…THANKS FOR BEING EPIC DAVE…SUPERMAN ON THE MOUNTAIN…GODS BEST AND ENJOY ...AIRYSWE
Posted by: fred eddy on 6/6/2013 at 3:58 pm
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