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Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 12,000'
We awoke in Mexico City this morning to clearing skies, warmer temperatures, and relatively quiet streets. Leaving town early on the Sunday morning of a holiday weekend has its benefits!
The team enjoyed a delicious traditional Mexican style breakfast provided by the hotel, and after efficiently transferring our mountain of luggage into the vehicle to go to the actual mountain, we stole a few extra moments prior to loading our bus to make a final run to the closest Starbucks. This last minute luxury is one which instantly triggers my Seattleite soul into an irrepressible mental fist-bump!
We sailed through the streets of District Federal with ease, making quick work of our exit from the metropolitan area. We had discussed the need to "roll with the punches", so to speak, at our evening meeting, as the logistics of traveling in this part of the world can sometimes be an exercise in patience. Soon after we left the city center behind we were met with our first mental challenge of the trip!
Our driver pulled off the highway, jumped out of the bus, and made a break for the nearest field and distant buildings in what at first appeared to be either a desperate trip to get to the restroom, or an oddly-timed opportunity to get in a quick jog...either way we all followed suit and hopped off to snap a few quick selfies and capture the views of Ixta and Popo.
To our delight, our driver returned, with tools and additional man-power, and we soon discovered we were not being abandoned, but rather beginning the process of repairing a punctured tire.
After an hour of relaxing roadside, we re-boarded and continued toward La Malinche, eagerly anticipating stretching our legs on the slopes of the long-extinct volcano. Once we arrived here at the La Malitzi Resort, we quickly moved into our Cabanas, organized our day packs, hit the trail, and hiked at a casual pace ascending to our high point of just over 12,000ft.
Back at the resort just before dark, we are enjoying a beautiful sunset here at 10,000ft, awaiting our dinner reservation and a hot shower to wash off the trail dust.
Tomorrow we head to Ixta to continue the acclimatization process and prepare for our first summit bid in a few days!
Buenos Noches!
RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the Team
Hey gang,
Being on the border of the Amazon Rainforest almost always keeps some clouds floating around Cayambe, but last night it brought more than just clouds. We awoke to a soaking mist that would have drenched the team within minutes of climbing. So we postponed for an hour and a half until there was a minor let up. Then we gathered our gear and started walking up hill in what can best be described as a "dry mist". For 45 minutes we had optimistic smiles as the moon was poking through the clouds and the team was moving strong. But at the first break the rains came and didn't let up. We pushed a bit further to 16,500 feet until the crew was soaked and the decision was clear to head down. To go higher would mean freezing our wet clothes and pushing the limits of a safe climb.
The descent went well and the whole team is now at Papallacta hot springs, happy and healthy. Everyone is turning their sights to more training and our next big climb......Antisana!
Stay tuned
RMI Guide Ben Liken and the Team
Today, we had an early start, however we weren’t sleepy on the trail for very long.
We crossed the river on foot five minutes away from our last trekking camp. The frigid waters came up to our knees as we crossed. Yikes! All this before sunrise. We quickly dried our feet and legs, and put on warmer foot wear to make our way up to Aconcagua. Six hours of hiking later, climbing 3,300 feet over seven miles, we walked into base camp.
We’re finally here! A few days to acclimate, and we should head up to Camp 1.
RMI Climber James Esrey
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Aconcagua Expedition January 31, 2025
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Chad Gaffigan, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
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Friday, June 28, 2019 - 10:23 PM PT
The heat wave is on. The highest temperatures of the season -so far- are hitting the mountain. The freezing level was up at 13,000 feet today and that is the expectation for tomorrow as well. (It might "normally" be down at 8,000 feet this time of year). We were up at 4:30 to take advantage of the cooler morning shadows. It took until about 7:10 to get on the move though after a good breakfast and some packing and gear sorting. We rolled up the now familiar series of hills -Motorcycle, Squirrel, Polo Field- but this day had much less cloud about than our carry two days back. There are layers of forest fire smoke in the air though -a big fire (56,000 acres) is burning down on the Kenai Peninsula, among others. Even so, we could see all the way down to the Tordrillos at the southern end of the Alaska Range.
We moved quickly around Windy Corner and then lost any wind or breeze as we worked up into the giant reflector oven of Genet Basin. It was getting downright hot at 1PM as we pulled into camp at 14,200 ft.
It was a fine thing to be greeted by Mike Haugen’s team taking their rest day. They helped us out with some water to get started and showed us a nice set of pre-built tent platforms not far from their own. We built our new home and then crawled in to take shelter from the blazing sun. Each time any of our climbers or guides came out -there’d be a few “wow’s” and some jaw-dropping or head-shaking as they tried to take in the views out over the mountains and glaciers to the South. And usually bigger WOW’S as they turned to look at Denali’s South Peak standing a mile in the sky straight up over us.
We ate our dinner in a new snow dining room, told some stories and talked over plans for the next few days. First off, we plan to get a good night's sleep after a hard-working day.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
What an amazing hike we did today. Starting in the dense trees of the national park (which are open in Mexico), we headed up past horses grazing and children laughing to 12,000 feet where we met some really nice people who were excited to joke with us. We kept our slow and constant pace all the way to 13,500 feet where the trail became rockier and the air lighter. After a break of dried fruit and protein bars we headed to the summit of La Malinche at 14,500 feet. We were in a light cloud so no great views but it felt got to be up there and not too winded. Here's a picture of Sue at the high break. Feeling happy and proud, we chitchatted all the way down to hot showers and enchiladas!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Posted by: Robby Young, Alan Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Saturday, July 14, 2018 - 4:10 PM PT
Hello world!
We're back in Huaraz! The team is all safe and sound in the friendly, and bustling, city of Huaraz after a wonderful four days in the Llanganuco Valley. We saw amazing nights skies; we endured unusual Cordillera Blanca weather, and we summited an amazing mountain in Pisco Oeste, at 18,871'.
The stars aligned for us during our last climbing objective here in Peru. For a while, it seemed that the weather wouldn't cooperate and would prohibit us from climbing to the highest summit of our trip. But with a bit of improvisation, and a little extra hard work by the team, we achieved our goal, climbed in good style, and snuck in Pisco's summit in the only 12-hour window of good weather the mountains would muster over the past four days. We're counting our lucky stars back here in the city, and we're prepping for our last celebratory dinner to share stories, lessons, and reflect on the past two weeks we've spent together in one of the most beautiful mountain ranges on Earth. Tonight is our team's last night to experience some of Peru's finest cuisine as the recovery stage of our climbing begins. Chances are some folks will indulge in the local favorite, Cuy, a.k.a. Guinea Pig. Don't worry, we won't send pictures. Meanwhile, enjoy some photos of our most recent climb! We're back to sea-level tomorrow as our team begins the long journey home. One more final post tomorrow, before you all see your loved ones once again!
Until then, hasta luego!
RMI Guides Robby Young, Alan Davis, William, and Peru Team "Pisco"
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
June 18, 2017
Well folks, I'm happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I'd be lying if I said it didn't make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000' and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We're now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600' to retrieve the rest of our belongings.
Good night from Camp 3!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
Awesome reading about your daily travels. Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)
Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am
Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa
Posted by: David Roe on 6/19/2017 at 8:38 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 17,800'
Hello, this is the RMI crew on top of Mount Urus. This is guides Elias, Peter and Robby. We are going to show you the excitement of the crew. {Cheers from the team!] I think that was loud and clear but once again 100% on the top of Nevado Urus. We're pretty psyched. It's 10 o'clock local time and we are having a great time. The weather gave us a break. Been a couple days of snow but we are under sunny skies now looking at our next objective, Copa, and if I turn around, I'll be looking at our last objective, Ishinca. Stay tuned. We'll be letting you know how we are doing on the last stretch in the next couple days. That's it from the top of Urus. Bye.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calling from the Nevados Urus summit!
Congrats to my Dad (Larry) and the rest of the team! Keep up the hard work and stay safe. Finger crossed on 3 for 3.
We’re thinking of you from the beach.
Ryan
Posted by: Ryan Burg on 7/6/2015 at 2:20 pm
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
June 28, 2015 12:20 am PST
Big day today... In spite of the forecast for 6-12" of new snow to fall today we awoke to partly cloudy skies, sun breaks, and only occasional flurries. Our long-shot plan to carry was a reality. We got rolling and packed up loads of supplies for High Camp and after a quick breakfast we made moves for the headwall and the fixed lines. After a few growing pains the team hit their stride and were able to put a cache in all the way up at high camp. The need for a back-carry could have hamstrung us on our move but since we cached at camp we are sitting pretty, waiting for our summit attempt weather window to open up. We're planning on a rest day tomorrow and then it's game on. We're a tired bunch but we know that today's hard work will pay off.
All for now!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
beard looks good on you !
Posted by: MARK AND HELEN WALSH on 6/29/2015 at 6:14 am
Hard work paying off indeed team - rest and be ready!
Doug - “If the sky could dream, it would dream of dragons”
-Llona Andrews, Fate’s Edge
Stay safe on the dragon’s back. ~Belladonna
Posted by: Belladonna on 6/28/2015 at 11:28 am
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Billy Haas, Katrina Bloemsma
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Yeah!
We made it off the trail today and after a quick lunch and a semi-successful sage sauce recipe aquisition in Penitentes we loaded all of our duffels onto the van and hit the road for Mendoza. We got into town around 5:30 or 6, checked into the hotel, and finally got those showers we´ve been dreaming of for so many weeks. Our sunburned, dirty faces definitely make us stand out among the normal people of the city but what can you really do? We´re headed out for a brew pub and a casual dinner tonight before we have our official celebratory dinner tomorrow night at a fancier restaurant. I´ll check in one more time tomorrow evening to officially wrap the expedition up.
Ciao, headed for some cervezas...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team
So, Glen, you are back on semiI level ground. Havel a good meal and shower, bet that feels good. Have a safe trip back home. See ya soon!
Posted by: John and Kathy on 1/30/2015 at 6:23 pm
Great picture, Uie, keep smiling! Enjoy yourself, good climbing, and stay safe, please!!!
Posted by: Pam Zechlinski on 1/19/2019 at 4:16 pm
Sue : Sounds like a spectacular trip, have fun and be safe
Of course very jealous of you in good way
Posted by: Sandra E on 1/16/2019 at 5:16 am
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