Hello from Cusco, on our last night before the trail!

Today started about as well as a day can start: alpacas, llamas, guanacos, and vicuñas, all of them looking slightly like cartoons come to life, all of them very willing to be fed by hand. Pure, uncomplicated joy.

We learned all about the fibers and the natural dyeing techniques from bugs to plants and had a chance to shop, of course.

From there, up to Sacsayhuamán, the massive stone fortress above the city, and then down on foot into Cusco itself for a walk through the old imperial center. “Stone with stone, no element in between,” Edgar told us, pointing out joints so tight you couldn’t slide a knife between the blocks. Limestone, interlocking, no mortar, nothing but precision holding it together. The Incas had a passion for perfectionism.

After a few more stops at the convent and the cathedral, we took some time to go through our gear and pare it down for the trail. We also have a passion for perfectionism, or something.

And then, the main dinner event — cuy. Guinea pig. A full plate and a genuinely brave showing from this group. Verdict, once everyone had worked up the nerve: chewy. Very chewy. Chewy cuy, we said. Would we order it again? Debatable. Do you have to try it once in Cusco? Also yes.

Bags are packed, boots are ready, and tomorrow we drive to the trailhead.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Machu Picchu team