The team stood on top of Pico de Orizaba at 7:30 this morning. We had calm air and partly clear skies to begin our hike up the steep moraine trail. Once in the labyrinth the trail was covered in firm snow & ice, which was unexpected based on how dry the surrounding area was. The team was moving up the glacier around 5 am. Once on the summit the pyramid shadow cast by the rising sun greeted everyone and was a highlight of the trip. The descent is always hard on toes and knees but we got back to Piedra Grande hut and packed up for the bumpy ride down in the trucks. 

We are back in Sr. Reyes’ hostel and packed for flights tomorrow afternoon. This has been a great trip with a stellar group of climbers, especially since we had summits on Ixta via a forgotten route and a classic Orizaba summit day. Thanks for following along.  

RMI Guide Mike King

Photo credit: Mike Greene

We had a nice relaxed day off in Puebla yesterday. The team struck out in some smaller groups to walk around Puebla. Seems like good  food, drink and site seeing was had. Today we head to Tlachichuca for a quick stop at Servimont’s historic soap factory turned climbers hostel to repack for our last summit attempt, Pico de Orizaba 18,491’. The remainder of the day will be spent taking trucks up a long and windy road to the Piedra Grande hut. Once there we will go for a short hike uphill to see the rocky and circuitous trail we will begin our climb on. We’ll check in hopefully from the summit tomorrow morning with a more detailed report once back down to the hostel. Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

We had some new information about the steep snow slope on the “knees” route upon arrival at La Joya. The slope had not got any new snow and was a firm ice sheet. Having been there last fall I decided that we should come up with a new plan to acclimate our group in preparation for Orizaba. Our local guide Alan had mentioned that climbers had been descending the Ayoloco route. For context the Ayoloco glacier was declared “dead” in 2018. Our guides had used this route to climb Ixta until 2011ish. We decided that if the Ayoloco was descendable then it must be ascendable.  

We set off yesterday into a dry and tall grassland filled with large sporadic pine trees, small lizards currying underfoot at 13000’. We picked our way up a “trail” not frequently used. Our high camp was 1000’ lower than the Refugio on the “knees” route but more pristine. We had a running water source nearby which doesn’t exist higher up. 

Our team wound its way across Ixta’s middle slopes at midnight with the night lights of Mexico City showing the way.   After a circuitous climb of the area formally known as the Ayoloco, we were on the summit at 5 am. Taking in the dawn colors before dropping into the once bountiful Ayoloco valley the team rallied like they have all trip. 

The descent to La Joya aggrieved knees and toes but there’s no motivation like a hot shower, cold drink and rest day. We are in Puebla for a rest day and will repack for our Pico de Orizaba attempt on Saturday. Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

January 17, 2024 - 5:50 am PT

Our team reached the summit of Ixta via Ayoloco route. We are descending to high camp and will post a full update once in Puebla.

RMI Guide Mike King

We called an audible this morning after hearing updated route conditions. The last remaining snow on our summit day has not got a refresh and is firm ice. This traverse would likely shut our summit day down. Instead we decided to go attempt the old Ayoloco route since teams have been using it as a descent route. The team is doing well. We will check in hopefully from the summit tomorrow morning. Until then, rest, hydration and dinner will occupy our afternoon.

RMI Guide Mike King

Yesterday the Mexico Volcanos team left our luxury accommodation at Hotel Geneve in Zona Rosa, Mexico City and headed to Volcan La Malinche to stretch the legs and get used to higher elevations. 

We made great time through pine forests and cool air from 10,000ft to roughly 13,800ft before we were turned by the Policia de Montaña. Largely to protect the many locals in jeans and street shoes, their 2pm turn around was strict and they were not impressed by our fancy technical outerwear and backpacks. 

Our conciliation price was an amazing view of our next goal, 17,103’ Volcan Iztaccíhuatl (Ixta), and later a muy grande BBQ feast at our cabañas. Off to Ixta!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

This is Mike checking in for our Mexico Volcanoes team. All our climbers arrived over the last two days with bags in tow. We had a quick team meeting last night and a good dinner. Today we are enroute for our acclimatization hike on La Malinche. This dormant volcano has a dense pine forest that covers the lower slopes. The route gets above tree line after a few hours and ascends to a ridge that weaves its way to a nice summit. The air is clear here now so we are getting some good views of Ixta & Popo on our exit from Mexico City. Our hike today is approximately 9000' of gain/loss so we'll keep our fingers crossed for good weather. We will sleep at 10,000' in a former Olympic training facility....from the 1968. We won't have service at our cabins. I'll check in tomorrow while enroute to Ixta. The group is excited to get going.

Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King