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Entries By george hedreen


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz SUMMIT!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Katuz Route early this morning. Mike reported great climbing, clear skies, and light winds. The Kautz Route is a great adventure for physically fit climbers ready for a slightly more technical adventure on Mt. Rainier, and today's team climbed strong! The team will be descending the Disappointment Cleaver Route, taking a short rest at Camp Muir before returning to Paradise.

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. Rainier: Teams Brave the Cold to Come Out on Top

RMI guides Mike King and Mike Haugen called from the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported some chilly temperatures, moderate winds and beautiful weather for climbing this morning. Despite the cold temperatures, the team enjoyed a great climbing route. Congratulations climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Enjoys Lovely Day of Climbing

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and Alex Halliday lead the Five Day Climb June 8 - 12 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Alex reported a lovely day with a light breeze.  The teams reached the summit crater between 6:30 and 6:45 am PT.  The teams enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent just before 8 am.  Once back to Camp Muir they will take a short break to refuel and repack before descending the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's Five Day Climb team members!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams on the summit!

RMI Guides Eric Frank and Mike King led their Four Day Climb June 5 - 8 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Mike reported good climb and a good route but they climbed in a cloud cap with limited visability.  The teams reached the crater rim around 6:30 am and were starting their descent shortly before 7:30 am.  They will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing down to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Four-Day Team Stands On Top!

The Four-Day climbing teams led by RMI guides Steve Gately and Christina Dale reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported some light route traffic and a great climbing route.

They will return back to Camp Muir for a quick rest break before descending back to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this evening to celebrate their success!

Nice work team!

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BE EPIC. Today. Tomorrow. And every single day after that. Congratulations Anthony, Payson, and the entire team on an epic adventure!!

Brenda and Abby Gerlach

Posted by: Brenda and Abby on 5/28/2023 at 9:36 am


Four Day Climb: Hahn, Parrinello & Team Remain at Camp Muir Due to Winds

RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Avery Parrinello and the Four Day Climb May 11 - 14 were unable to leave Camp Muir for their summit attempt due to high winds.  Dave reported winds gusting 60-70 mph.  The teams waited, ready to climb, for the winds to dissipate, but no such luck.  

The teams will return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon to conclude their climb.

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Team Reaches Summit!

The Five Day Climb May 4 - 8, 2023 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday afternoon led by RMI Guides Ben Ammon and Dominic Cifelli. The team had a nice day with the clouds below until they reached about 13,500', then they were enveloped by a cloud cap but were able to push through to the summit.  They did quick high fives, hugs and quickly started their descent. They returned to Camp Muir for a well deserved rest.  The team began their descent from Camp Muir at 9am.  We look forward to their return to BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratutions to the team!

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Yay, Darius! ❤️

Posted by: Jenn on 5/8/2023 at 10:27 pm


RMI Guides Hone Their Craft in Colorado

From Dan May

At the beginning of April a crop of RMI guides including myself, Leif Bergstrom, Henry Coppolillo, Lacie Smith, Tatum Whatford, and George Hedreen, headed off to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado to work on honing our alpine guide skills with the help of the AMGA. We split our time between Boulder and Estes Park, Colorado while completing the Alpine Guide Course. Often in these courses, you are amongst colleagues spread across other guiding companies, however in this instance, we had the opportunity to work and learn together. Being able to sharpen our guiding skills in alpine terrain amongst our peers that we work with in the North Cascades, Denali, and South America was a great opportunity.

Practicing terrain belays

These courses offer us the chance to add additional tools to our ever-growing toolkit as guides while being reviewed, critiqued, and taught by the AMGA instructors. While romping around the Flat Irons, Eldorado Canyon, and Tyndall Gorge of Rocky Mountain National Park, we took turns climbing rock, ice, snow, and mixed routes while guiding each other through the terrain. These chances and skills as a guide are invaluable. It is easy to convince your friends to go climbing with you, but to convince your friends to let you guide them through peculiar terrain to practice your techniques and skill sets is another story.

Leading a pitch of mixed climbing.

At the end of the nine days, all RMI guides successfully completed the course and had a great time doing so. Now we are all turning our sights to Ashford and Mt. Rainier in preparation for another great summer of climbing.

George, Lacie, and Dan practicing short roping.

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Thank you for sharing how you, as guides, maintain & improve your skills. I hope to climb with RMI this year. I wish you all a safe and healthy climbing season!!

Posted by: James O’Neil on 4/23/2023 at 9:49 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team Had a Successful Week of Training

RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Steve Gately and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team spent a fun week on Mt. Rainier learning new mountaineering skills such as snow & ice anchors, crevasse rescue, ice climbing, fixed line travel, belaying and other technical skills needed to tackle the world's greatest peaks. The team spend their time training on the Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers that surround Camp Muir and made it to Ingraham Flats at 11,200' to enjoy the incredible views of other peaks in the Cascade Range. 

Congratulations Team!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Unable to Summit, Reach 12,300’

The Four Day Climb August 28 - 31 led by RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and Jack Delaney were unable to summit today.  Climbers reached 12,300, the top of Disappointment Cleaver, before deciding to turn back due to unfavorable route conditions and warm temperatures.  The teams were back to Camp Muir just after 7 am.  They took some time to repack before beginning their descent from Camp Muir back to Paradise. We expect the groups to be at Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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