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8/29 - A well deserved rest day! Again, sleeping in and waking with the sun - we enjoyed our final bagel, cream cheese and smoked salmon meal of the trip. Nick was running the stoves, and taking orders, and the morning was leisurely around camp. We spent the day pondering weather, and making a game plan for the coming days. We ate snacks, played some games, and continued to put off walking to the edge of the world. The day wrapped up with Mac and Cheese and some team rounds of heads up. We are continuing to look for a 3 day weather window to move up hill, summit, and return to 14 camp. Let's see what the weather brings!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition May 12, 2026
Monday, May 11, 2026 - 10:13 pm PT
Today, we bring you a poem from the team:
Snow always falling
It never stops
Saw the sun for five minutes
We nearly blew our tops
Then yet again,
The snow returned
What will tomorrow bring?
Soon we will learn…
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison
New Post Alerts:
Ruth Glacier Seminar May 2, 2025
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Kat Porter, Dan Harper, Edward Barrett
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Around 6:45am this morning, RMI's four-day climb led by guide Joe Hoch made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team reported good conditions and are on their descent back to Camp Muir. They will be back in Ashford this afternoon.
Great work up there!
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Calvin Jiricko
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Tuesday, June 2, 2026 - 4:26 pm PT
We awoke in the early morning cold at 11,000 feet to break down camp for the final time. One last descent over familiar terrain back to the airstrip! The first leg of our journey started out with a less than auspicious start - in a cloud with blowing snow. After a couple of hours we popped out of the cloud into blinding sunshine and panoramic views of the Alaska Range! Three hours of scenic glacier travel later we arrived at Kahiltna Basecamp. After checking in with Mary, the lovely basecamp manager, we were in the queue to be picked up by K2 Aviation. The team dug up the cache we had left on day one revealing a wealth of treasure inside, forgotten snacks, beers and bubbly waters! We got organized, relaxed and sipped our beverages until we heard the whine of Turbo Otter engines in the sky. Less than an hour later we were in Talkeetna, a strange and alien place full of greenery and modern conveniences. The final 48 hours from summit to town felt like a fever dream. The trip is officially over with everyone back, safe and sound. Thanks for following our journey dear readers!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Jack Delany and the Team
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 8, 2026
Thank you team leaders for giving the 11 climbers an experience of a lifetime that will be embedded in their memories forever!
It was a harrowing experience for those of us reading the daily blog, but so appreciated to be kept in the loop. Thank you for keeping our loved ones safe in the extreme weather, cold and ice. You had a huge responsibility! Enjoy your time off.. well deserved!
Posted by: Michelle Wyly on 6/2/2026 at 8:27 pm
Posted by: Sam Marjerison, Celeste Wilson, Oliver Kendall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The four-day climb led by RMI guides Sam Marjerison, Celeste Wilson, and Oliver Kendall reached the summit of Mt Rainier this morning around 5:10 am. They reported sunshine and a fantastic climbing route. They are currently on their descent back to Camp Muir and will return to Ashford this afternoon.
Way to go climbers!
Monday, June 15, 2026 - 3:57 pm PT
Our climb of Cotopaxi was a resounding success. After making out way to the Jose Ribas Refugio at 15,950' on Saturday, we woke to high winds and blowing moisture. Not knowing exactly how things would progress, we donned our shell layers and headed out to attempt the peak. The weather remained the same throughout our climb and despite the fact that a thick layer of ice built up on every vertical surface, the team trudged on, reaching the summit at 6:30am on Sunday.
Yesterday afternoon we returned to Quito for a celebratory dinner, some thicker air, and a collection of flights to our various corners of the country.
On a personal note, I wanted to say thank you to this team for an amazing week of climbing. In many ways, this was a textbook trip: we had 100% success on each of the four peaks we climbed. That doesn't mean that the climbs were without challenge, but rather that each teammate showed up fit and ready to climb. Even when things were in doubt, they kept positive attitudes and were willing to make the best of every situation. I feel fortunate to have spent the week getting to show them around one of the best climbing areas in South America. Cheers!
RMI Guide Eric Frank
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Ecuador Expedition June 5 - 15, 2026
Posted by: Seth Burns, Ben Thorneycroft, Margo Kerr
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,200'
5/29 - Today’s post includes two stories, we’ll let you decide what happened with Burn’s team’s seventh day on the mountain.
Story 1:
Seth and guides woke everyone up at 1 am, seizing the weather window and decided to make the first ever RMI summit push from Camp 2. After pounding 5 shots of espresso and 2 cups of powdered milk each, in just base layers, the team sprinted up the mountain at a blistering pace, reaching the highest point in North America in just 3 hours. They celebrated by shotgunning beers at the top, and cruised back to Camp 2 in 37 minutes (Denali FKT?). Very proud of everyone’s efforts today!
Story 2:
The team woke up to some more snow and decided to rest. Life is good.
- RMI Climber Andy
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition, May 19, 2026
Way to go Andy and team.
Posted by: Dawn Riewe on 5/30/2026 at 12:10 pm
Go Andy!! Sending good vibes to all for a successful climb!!
Posted by: Nancy Geldean on 5/30/2026 at 10:53 am
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel, Calvin Jiricko
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 11,000'
5/16 - It’s 6:30pm and I’ve just turned off the stoves in the kitchen tent after finishing melting water. I step out, get sandblasted with snow as I sneak my way to the big red Hilleberg dining tent or “the hilly” as we call it.
It’s windy, it’s cold, the snow is spinning and spinning around.
I step down into the hilly and feel the warmth from the stove, the whole team all bundled together as Jack and Calvin use creative methods to cook delicious pepperoni and cheese pizzas. Everyone slides over and I slot in between layers of down jackets.
We spend the next couple hours slowly eating pizzas and chatting about a range of topics.
At 7pm, we listen to the weather on the radio and the nightly trivia question. Jack answered it immediately and correctly and ended the dispatch with “RMI RULEZ” so the whole mountain knows our lead guide is an expert on the similarities between sea horses and sea dragons. (you should ask him)
Today we took a somewhat forced but also perfectly timed rest day. Somewhat forced because more unsettled weather has arrived.
Perfectly timed because we have been working so hard nearly every moment since we landed on the Kahiltna glacier.
I keep thinking of the phrase “be here now” and it’s something so challenging in our daily lives but out here there is a forced nowness. We eat long meals together, we shovel walkways to our tents and then shovel them again. Our efforts and our lives are all revolved around a singular goal of moving the team forward. We are living in the now in the most raw way possible and there’s something so beautifully brutal to it all.
We will wake up tomorrow, look at the mountain and see what she says.
Maybe we will stay put at 11k camp, maybe we will have the chance to carry our gear to our 14k cache.
We’re open to what is. We’re in the now-cast.
RMI Guide Jess Wedel & Team
New Post Alerts:
Mt. McKinley Expedition May 8, 2026
Tina said nothing about pizza on the mountain. PIZZA?!
Posted by: Grayson Currin on 5/17/2026 at 4:07 pm
I look forward to these daily updates. I am cheering Forest on and all of you hoping for a successful summit. So far you all are facing adversity like champs! You all got this!!!!!!!
Posted by: Peggy Diaz on 5/17/2026 at 1:51 pm
Posted by: Ben Luedtke, Mike Bennett, Avery Stolte
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska
Elevation: 348'
Tuesday, June 30, 2026 - 9:37 pm PT
Hey daily blog readers,
For whoever you are reading this blog for… well now is the time to call them. Ring them. Yes now.
They have a story for you.
Thanks for following along ✌️
That’s a wrap.
❤️
RMI Climber Devon Levesque
New Post Alerts:
McKinley Expedition, June 9, 2026
Today we launched for 747 Pass but were turned back halfway through our day due to 2-3ft of trail breaking. We are now back at camp and battening down the hatches for another round of weather! We’ve had the great pleasure of passing time with plenty of card games and a delicious dinner of Pad Thai. Tomorrow we plan to work on skills and wait until the weather breaks!
RMI Guide Sam Marjerison












Go Karen! The Colorado pod is rooting for you!
Posted by: Rebecca on 5/30/2026 at 3:25 pm
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