Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Set Up Camp at 14,200’

May 23, 2015

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, May 22nd 5:52 pm PDT The day dawned (that is, the sun rose since it's always some shade of dawn or dusk but never night) with blue skies and calm air in camp, so we hit the rally button, gobbled breakfast and set about breaking camp to head to 14,200 ft. As we climbed, clouds started to appear and stream over our heads and we knew that winds were building. Windy Corner lived up to its name, but it was really only unpleasant for a short while, with wind whipping snow and ice pellets into our face. As soon as we passed the Windy Corner, the winds died and the oven turned on. It's a long move to 14k Camp, and once we arrived the work wasn't over. We set about building walls, a new kitchen, and getting everything bomb proofed. Now we're settled into our new digs, happy, warm, and content. 14k Camp really is the cat's meow. Tomorrow we'll retrieve our cache, and it will be great to be fully settled. Until then, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

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Keep up the good work, Matt! Here’s a terrible pun for your trouble: ‘I have kleptomania, so when it gets really bad, I take something for it.’ Stay warm and safe, and enjoy the view!

Posted by: Scott on 5/24/2015 at 9:52 am

Jon and Team,
Congratulations on hiking up to 14,200 base camp! In spite of the snow and ice pellets you all persevered and succeeded. Thank you guides for your wisdom.
We continue to pray for your safety, cooperative weather and good health.
With caring thoughts to all,
Hugs,
Mom and Aunty Karen

Posted by: Kemai on 5/23/2015 at 10:52 pm

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Mt. Rainier: May 23rd Update

May 23, 2015

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 13,200'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Brent Okita was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Low visibility and windy conditions prevented the team from climbing above 13,200 ft. The team will descend back to Camp Muir before continuing on to Ashford this afternoon.

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,200’ Camp Waiting for Better Weather

May 22, 2015

Posted by: Billy Haas, Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 22, 2015 - 5:01 pm PT Once again we find ourselves resting at the 14,200' camp on Denali's West Buttress. This is our second rest/acclimatization day at this camp, and we are feeling stronger each day. The weather is quite pleasant here in camp, with partly sunny skies and barely a breath of wind. The story is a bit different up higher on the mountain, where strong winds are streaming snow off of the West Buttress. Winds are forecast to increase and there is a high wind advisory for tomorrow and tomorrow night. That means we're planning to stay put in our comfortable and secure camp for the next couple of days while we wait for more reasonable weather in which to climb. We'll keep you updated... RMI Guide Mike Walter & team

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Take A Weather Day at 11,200’

May 22, 2015

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 21, 2015 - 11:31 pm PT Mt. McKinley made it abundantly clear today that we were welcome to stay in the tents, but were not welcome to move higher. Big snow plumes above us and swirling clouds, snow, and wind in camp made the decision to rest for the day easy. We passed the time with a long brunch, some tent time, and another long dinner session hanging out in the posh. This evening our visibility improved, the sun shone through, and the winds diminished, so we're hopeful that we'll take a take two tomorrow and head up to 14,000'. Keep your finger crossed for us. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard and team

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Thinking of you all up there. McKinley is showing both her sides to you, will definately cross fingers she will start behaving tomorrow and let you guys through.
Love and miss you Renee as always. So very proud of you. Please keep safe and warm. Jordy leaving Oz soon - how exciting hey. All doggies well as far as i know - Mama xxx

Posted by: lori on 5/22/2015 at 4:17 pm

Team Pete that sounds like the best decision. Keep spirits up we are all praying for better weather and safety for all for the rest of your journey. Thanks for the update !
Matt everyone here @ home miss you bunches, stay healthy and strong!!
I go by your house every other day get mail it lets people see someone is there its all fine, pool does not seem to be open sure wish it was :>( Stay safe and warm.
Till next update
Love you mom xox

Posted by: Terri on 5/22/2015 at 1:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Arrive at Camp 1

May 22, 2015

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 21, 2015 - 10:46 pm PT The team has made it to Camp 1 in almost perfect style. I am on my seventh Denali climb as a guide and have never gone from Base Camp to Camp 1 with such seamlessness. No one had a single sled issue or cursed my name for giving them so much gear. No one got a blister or fell behind a single second. Like I said earlier, I am very pleased with this team. One day down, who knows how many more to go. Stay tuned for tomorrow's report. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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We sure hope the weather holds clear and bright the rest of your journey. Safe climbing to the whole team. Keep up the good work and good luck to you all.

Posted by: Connie Whitley on 5/23/2015 at 4:14 am

Way to go team! Glad all is well. We sure are routing for y’all. Greetings from Texas! Yee,haw!!

Posted by: Joyce Tocher on 5/22/2015 at 6:20 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Rest at 14,000’

May 22, 2015

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 21, 2015 - 10:26 pm PT Hello from 14k on Denali! We took a planned rest day today, which was a good thing because the weather was a bit inhospitable this morning in camp. Winds were swirling and blowing snow around, with very little visibility. We took advantage of the situation and had a three hour brunch in the comfort and relative luxury of our cook tent. The weather improved a bit in the afternoon, and we did some work around camp fortifying our snow walls. By this evening, the skies were nearly clear and the wind was light at camp. Strong winds were still obvious up higher on the route. The weather forecast for the next few days is still calling for high winds? So our plan is to sit tight and wait for a better weather window in which to climb higher. In the mean time, we're resting, acclimating, and telling lies in the cook tent. We'll keep you posted as we continue to watch the weather. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

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Alaska Seminar: Dave & Team Train at 9,800’

May 22, 2015

Posted by: Leon Davis, Bridget Belliveau

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,800'

May 21, 2015 - 10:03 pm PT Here we are at 9,800' for a second night. This morning the winds continued to whip at the surrounding ridges and moving camp up the Kahiltna Dome was not prudent. However we were able to go for a venture towards Kahiltna Pass to see what there was to see. Good times trying to get over the bergschrund which was a trap door of deep faceted snow. Towards the top of the ridge we met firm icy conditions that forced us back down. Good times nevertheless! If the weather improves tomorrow we will make an attempt on the Dome. Good night! RMI Guide Leon Davis

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Down here in North Carolina, we had our first day at the pool yesterday! Stay warm. Love, Mom

Posted by: Judy Kenyon on 5/23/2015 at 5:28 am

Love the positive vibes from Guide Leon!

Posted by: Laura Bryson on 5/22/2015 at 5:51 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches Summit

May 21, 2015

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

At 8:30 am the Expedition Skills Seminar – Muir led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Walter Hailes crested the summit crater of Mt. Rainier. The team will spend about an hour on the summit enjoying light winds and mild temperatures before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. The team will spend one more night at Camp Muir before returning to Ashford on Friday. We look forward to hearing of their training and climbing adventures.

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to Windy Corner

May 21, 2015

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, May 20th 6:11 pm PDT Our day was productive, if not easy. This morning the winds had abated, though not gone, and we seized our opportunity to make some headway. We swapped snowshoes for crampons, packed loads of food and fuel, and roped up for the climb to Windy Corner. The winds, not nearly as strong as yesterday, were nonetheless a bit blustery as we climbed and added a bit of extra challenge to the day, and everyone rose to that challenge. We made it to Windy Corner and cached our loads as the wind seemed to pick up a bit. We scooted back downhill to the comfort of our tents, and tucked in. By mid-afternoon, the winds returned to 11k Camp and brought snow with them. We'll see how the current pattern progresses, and in the morning we'll find out if the weather will allow us to move up, or whether we'll extend out stay at 11,200' for another day. For now we're snug in our beds. RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and Team

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Hi Jon!
As I looked at the picture of the team climbing with heavy packs I thought of our Mt. Fuji climb. Fuji must have been a piece of cake compared to what you and the team are experiencing. Hope that the weather will permit the team to advance to the 14,000’ base camp.
With warm thoughts and prayers for everyone!
Hugs,
Mom

Posted by: Kemai on 5/22/2015 at 1:25 am

Hi Renee, hope the weather gets better for you all. Photos look amazing. Hope your taking plenty of them. Miss you bulldog and staffy stare at the door waiting for you whenever they hear a noise outside. I’m nearly all packed ready to leave! Can’t wait to see you. GABS starts today will have a milk chai stout and finger lime ale for you! Love Jordy, Ralph & Meissa xoxo

Posted by: Jordan on 5/21/2015 at 3:44 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter and Team Carry to 16,200’

May 21, 2015

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, May 20th 3:19 pm PDT We took advantage of a beautiful morning today and bumped a cache of food and fuel up to 16,200 ft on the West Buttress, above the fixed ropes of the head wall outside of 14k camp. We made efficient work of the head wall and, as we neared the top, clouds and wind moved in around us. The weather was manageable, just not very pleasant. So once our cache hole was dug and our food and fuel was buried, we retreated back down the fixed ropes to the comfort of camp. The afternoon was spent relaxing as winds swirled around camp. We will take a rest day tomorrow to recover and acclimate further. The weather forecast for the next couple of days indicates strong winds up high, so we'll likely have a couple of days to rest here at 14,200' while we wait for a reasonable weather window to move up to high camp and have a crack at the summit. Hopefully the weekend will bring more favorable climbing weather. We'll keep you posted either way. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Set Up Camp at 14,200’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: May 23rd Update

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,200’ Camp Waiting for Better Weather

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Take A Weather Day at 11,200’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Arrive at Camp 1

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Rest at 14,000’

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Dave & Team Train at 9,800’

Mt. Rainier: Expeditions Skills Seminar - Muir Reaches Summit

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to Windy Corner

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter and Team Carry to 16,200’

On The Map

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