Entries from Expedition Dispatches

May 12, 2015 10:15 pm PT Team is ready for our first objective: tomorrow morning we will be switching to multi-pitch mode and conquer our first big route. We had a great day training on (and summiting) "the Munchkin." We spent the day on its south ridge and east face rehearsing for steep snow and technical rock. Everyone is doing great and we all look forward to checking in with more accounts from the outstanding routes we are about to tackle. Good evening! RMI Guides Elías, Sean, Andy and the team.

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Awesome job you guys! Paul you are amazing!!!

Posted by: Merilee Jopson on 5/14/2015 at 9:58 am

Congratulations to everyone! Very exciting to get the updates. Wish I was there!!! Good luck!

Posted by: Leo Wright on 5/13/2015 at 12:17 pm

Mt. Rainier: May 13th Update

May 13, 2015

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,300'

The Five-Day Muir Summit Climbs, led by Brent Okita and Zeb Blais, turned at the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning due to weather. Cloud deck is currently at 8,700'. Both teams left Camp Muir just after 9:00 a.m. PT. Brent sent some photos as they descended this morning (shown below).

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team First Full Day on the Pika Glacier

May 12, 2015

Elevation: 5,600'

May 11, 2015 11:00 pm PT Greetings! Warm temperatures, clear skies and pristine snow is what we enjoyed today. Our first full day in the Pika entailed a thorough review of our different anchors, crevasse rescue systems and scenarios, and a tour of the glacier to check the approach to our upcoming routes. Keeping a close eye on the ravens, whom are after our kitchen and tents, we enjoyed a massive production of tortellini at dinner. This will fuel us for our first objective tomorrow, when we'll try our first summit while mastering transitions, protection and descents on rock and snow. Best regards, RMI Guides Elias, Andy, and Sean

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I’m so proud of your adventurous spirit. Your trip looks amazing! I can’t wait to hear all about it when you get home.

Love you so much,
B

Posted by: BC on 5/13/2015 at 8:44 am

Hope the good weather continues..enjoying your Blogs.

Posted by: JH on 5/12/2015 at 7:52 pm

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Tackle Ski Hill

May 12, 2015

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Billy Haas

Elevation: 9,600'

May 11, 2015 9:10 pm PT Greetings from the Kahiltna Glacier! Our team is making steady progress, and we're currently at our camp at 9,600'. The weather has been beautiful since we were able to land on the glacier on Sunday. The climbing is strenuous, as always, as we carry heavy backpacks and pull full sleds. This morning we tackled "Ski Hill", our first real significant incline, followed by rolling glacial terrain until we reached camp. Camp is all set up and we are busy cooking dinner. We'll try to rack out early tonight for some well-earned rest. Tomorrow we plan to make a cache of equipment here, at our current camp, in order to lighten our expedition loads. Then the plan is to then move up to the 11,200' camp; we'll come back for the cached gear the following day. That's the plan at least. Our plans are always at the mercy of the weather in the mountains. That's it for now. Everyone is healthy and in good spirits. We'll touch base again tomorrow, hopefully from 11k camp. RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Fly on the Glacier

May 11, 2015

Posted by: Billy Haas, Solveig Waterfall, Mike Walter

Elevation: 7,800'

May 11, 2015 12:51 am PT Hi everyone! We finally had a break in the weather and were able to fly on to the glacier this morning. After days of waiting in Talkeetna, we were all eagerly anticipating our flight this morning. We took off just after 9 am, and once on the glacier we packed and organized our gear quickly in order to make the most of the day. We are now snug in our tents at the base of Ski Hill (7800') after a long but satisfying day covering the relatively flat lower glacier. Our group climbed strong, and tomorrow we're looking forward to moving camp farther uphill. It's nearly midnight and we've all had a big day, so we're going to get some rest and we'll check in again tomorrow! RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Eric - So exciting to follow your adventure. We are looking forward to hearing about it from you in person. Good luck! XOXO Kathy & Casey

Posted by: Kathy Mangan on 5/28/2015 at 9:52 am

Received a surprise cell call from son Eric last night at 10:15pm EST from Camp 2 (9600’) and he sounded pumped. Great to hear your voice my boy!! (No details as call dropped after 10 seconds.) They’re on the move!

Posted by: Alex Alimanestianu on 5/12/2015 at 6:40 am

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly to the Pika Glacier

May 11, 2015

May 10, 2015, 9:28 pm PT We woke today in Talkeetna to beautiful weather and were able to fly on to the Pika Glacier before noon. We spent the day building the camp that we'll be calling home for the next week, and also had time for some avalanche education and training. For now, we are in and out of light clouds and snow, but things are relatively calm, temperatures are mild and all of us are excited to be in Little Switzerland after a weather day in Talkeetna. Fingers crossed for blue skies in the coming days! RMI Guides Sean Collon, Elias de Andres Martos and Andy Hildebrand

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Praying for all!
Spoke with Phillip and Christy last evening. Phillip sent me a picture of he and his girlfriend.

Love You Brian

Posted by: Duane Mycroft on 5/12/2015 at 6:18 pm

The trip looks beautiful! We admire your courage. Be safe and enjoy a trip of a lifetime!

Posted by: Ken and Pam on 5/12/2015 at 8:56 am

Alaska Update: Improved Weather - Teams Fly To & From Talkeenta

May 10, 2015

Posted by:

May 10, 2015 11:50 am PT RMI Guide Leon Davis checked in from Talkeetna. The weather improved this morning allowing RMI Mt. McKinley May 5th Team led by Mike Walter to fly to Kahiltna. This same plane then loaded Leon and Team to fly from Kahiltna Base Camp to Talkeetna. The Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine led by Elias de Andres Martos was also able to fly from Talkeetna today and have been flown to the Pika Glacier to start their expedition.

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Looks amazing Jimmy. Be safe and keep warm and dry. Have fun.

Posted by: Edguardo on 5/12/2015 at 11:06 am

Mike: All the best for a fine climb…You are a great leader…All the best and God bless you and your crew…Walter from IN….

Posted by: Walter Glover on 5/11/2015 at 6:29 am

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team - Day 1 Training in Talkeetna

May 9, 2015

Greetings from Talkeetna, Alaska! We are wrapping up our first day of the Alpine Skills Seminar. Everybody arrived on schedule to Anchorage yesterday, and a rainy drive took us to the gateway of the Alaska Range. As planned, we spent the morning getting ready with the pertinent logistics prior to loading the bush plane equipped with skies to take us to the glacier. As our appetite climbed for what we hoped to be the last served meal of the week, the thick clouds brought the rain (snow in the range) that would keep us grounded. We took advantage of the delay, and practiced some skills at the K2 Hangar. We got familiar with our tents, reviewed knots and hitches and mastered crevasse self extrication to make the most of a wet afternoon. Our hopes are to fly tomorrow morning straight onto the Pika Glacier. We´ll keep you posted! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Long Walks and Long Clouds

May 9, 2015

Posted by: Leon Davis, Bridget Belliveau

Elevation: 7,300'

Good evening warm comfortable people! The team here at base camp continues to thrive midst the constant storm. We needed to stick our heads in it so we packed our sleds and made our way to the main flow of the Kahiltna and started walking upstream. Although the visibility was only a few hundred meters and the snow fell wet, we managed to make a seven-mile round trip journey up the expansive long frozen river. Everyone performed well and lessons in self care were earned. With the weather outlook looking bleak, we may have to take the first flight out tomorrow morning. Hopefully in time to call our mothers on Mother's Day! RMI Guide Leon Davis

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Good luck! Can’t wait to hear all the adventures!

Posted by: Sandra on 5/10/2015 at 11:14 am

good luck Doni n Pepi
gunna b cold n wet

Posted by: Donato Arguelles on 5/10/2015 at 9:52 am

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team in a White World

May 9, 2015

Posted by: Leon Davis, Bridget Belliveau