RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make a Run up the Fixed Lines

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 6:56 pm PT We decided that the perfect weather this morning demanded that we go take a run up the fixed lines to check them out, and finally gain the West Buttress. We're sitting through a spell of fantastic weather, warm, calm, and sunny, and the views back over camp were stunning. The fixed lines are often a point of uncertainty, nervousness, and apprehension, right up until we clip in to them and everyone realizes that's it's just the same old climbing that we are all used to. Everyone did a fantastic job and we cruised to the top, took a bit to enjoy the views and breathe some thin air, then headed back down to camp for an afternoon siesta. Tomorrow we'll take one more rest day before we look to make our move to 17K Camp and get our summit push underway. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

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Hey Rich and all your teammates…great pictures have been coming our way and we are so pleased you all have had such great weather. Can’t wait to see more!!! Love mom and dad

Posted by: Richard lewis on 6/3/2018 at 2:12 pm

Thinking of you all every day and enjoying these updates! Happy Birthday yesterday to Henry - love to him and Caleb from Gran/Mom (and of course to the rest of the group!)

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 6/3/2018 at 8:17 am

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 3:23 PM PT Early this morning we broke down camp under perfect conditions! The team climbed remarkably strong and we made great time up to our Camp III at 11,000'. We arrived in mid morning to avoid traveling while in the heat of solar rays and overheating our engines. The crew then built camp in short order now we’re settling in for a mid day siesta. We’re strong, happy and stoked with our performance. Tonight we will have a feast of Annie’s Mac and cheese, then we will try to be up before the sun hits us in the morning for a short back carry to retrieve yesterday’s load of groceries, fuel, and personal luggage. That’s all for now from our new camp and currently the rest and hydration station. Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Brian Mazaika, and Nick Scott

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Go Team Jones! Go Shawn! August says that next time he want to go with you :-)
Keep up the great work everyone. Awesome progress up this amazing mountain!

Posted by: Kam on 6/3/2018 at 7:36 am

Yes!! Watching you all move up the map is incredibly exciting. Stoked to hear the team is climbing strong and the conditions ideal. Sounds like the team is climbing with style.

Dave and Team, you are in our thoughts and we are cheering on each step higher!!

Love,
B

Posted by: Beth on 6/3/2018 at 4:55 am

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Prepare For Summit Attempt on Huayna Potosi

June 2, 2018

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 17,600'

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 2:43 PM PT We awoke to a leisurely morning as we waited for our porters to arrive and collect some of our gear to bring to High Camp at 17,600’ on Huayna Potosi. As with any big mountain around the world, weather plays a major role when attempting to summit a 6000 meter peak. With a deteriorating forecast in the coming days, we’ve decided to bump up our summit attempt to tonight! Today we climbed a little over 1500’ to the Anselme Baud hut at the base of glacier. The hut feels similar to any European Chalet with a mixture of people from all over the world looking to climb. The crew did great getting to the hut allowing us ample time to enjoy tea, and food. Currently it’s cloudy, with no precipitation and winds are calm. Our hope is to climb tonight before the weather turns with an approaching cold front. Forecasting weather in Bolivia is a challenge as clouds slowly build in the Amazon lowlands slowly building over the mountains. Some local guides use the sight of a certain beetle to tell when a storm is approaching. We remain optimistic that weather will hold off until Monday. We’ll keep our fingers crossed as we look to make our summit attempt tonight on Huayna Potosi. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Getting Ready to Move to High Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories:

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 5:01 PM PT A good weather window appears to be forming right now, and lasting through the weekend. Our plan is to take advantage of the good weather and move camp to 17,000' tomorrow and, hopefully, summit the following day. We'll keep you posted with our progress. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Another great update - whew! Everyone is safe and weather is good!

We wish you all a safe summit and descent on Monday with a good climb to the 17,000’ camp tomorrow. Fingers remained crossed for continued clear weather to achieve all this in the next 48 hours!
Cheers from Larkspur, CA!
Susan

Posted by: Susan on 6/2/2018 at 3:45 pm

All rooting for a beautiful summit!
Lots of love from the hood in brooklyn.
Lulu Noto Garrick Elisa
Tommy and Alex big pasta monk dinner waiting in celebration and of course
Our cos wine to wash it down.

Posted by: Lulu and Noto on 6/2/2018 at 1:50 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 10:30 PM PT We're falling into the rhythm of Denali. After a big day yesterday, it seemed appropriate to take a rest day and avail ourselves of the comforts of 14,000' Camp. It was a stellar, beautiful day and we rested for most, taking a brief reprieve to practice and train for the fixed lines tomorrow. We'll take our first spin on those and everyone is excited to get on the West Buttress and some exciting terrain! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Happy Birthday to your mate on the mountain!

Rich hope all is going well! Can’t wait to hear all about your trip when you get back home

Posted by: Susie and the kids on 6/2/2018 at 7:51 pm

Happy birthday to Hank Huntington! -Thomas

Posted by: Thomas Huntington on 6/2/2018 at 11:38 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach the Crater

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Steve Gately, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb May 30 - 2 June, 2018 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Steve Gately reported consistent 20 mph winds and cloudy conditions. The team will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats team! What an amazing accomplishment!

Posted by: Staci Ikeler on 6/3/2018 at 6:45 pm

Awesome! Wonderful! Best news I’ve had in a long time. Enjoy the descent and the memories of a life time experience together. Thank you for the blog information. It made my day for sure.

Posted by: Helen PicKell on 6/2/2018 at 1:16 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 9:30 PM PT We had our first rest day of the trip today, and the team certainly earned it. The weather was perfect, with blue skies, and a cool breeze that kept us from baking in the tents. The day went pretty quickly, which is not always the case. We passed most of the time trading stories about our most embarrassing moments, and listening to Finnish heavy metal courtesy of our friendly neighbors. Not much else to report from the mountain today. We'll check in tomorrow, hopefully from our new home at 14,000'. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brett,
We are so proud of you! Garrett and I miss you but we’re doing great and we’re happy thinking about you, Alden, and Chip on this amazing adventure! We’re sorry we missed your sat call. We love you!!! Xoxo

Posted by: Kate on 6/2/2018 at 9:55 pm

Alden, keep pumping brother. Me and the lady buglettes are behind you and your team 110%.

Bugman

Posted by: Matt Lattig on 6/2/2018 at 6:10 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Complete Seminar, Return to Talkeenta

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 348'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 6:33 PM PT From the top of Radio Tower to the bottom of the crevasse on the Kahiltna, your guides; Christina, Lucas, and Alex thank the Alaska Seminar team for bringing a sense of humor and awe to the 9 days spent together. We are now off the ice and onto burgers and brews.

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Pack Camp and Move to Huanya Potosi Base Camp

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 15,200'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 6:21 PM PT The sun warmed our tents before a majority of the team was up and about this morning. We decided to sleep late and take advantage of some well deserved rest after our climb of Pequeno Alpamayo the day before. Cups of tea and coffee, bread with honey and scrambled eggs with ham rounded out breakfast. Today was a move day. After breakfast, we slowly packed up our camp and walked back out of the Condoriri Valley to the awaiting Land Cruisers. With our duffles loaded tightly in the trucks and above on metal racks, we quickly drove the 20 miles back out to the highway and headed south toward Zongo Pass, the basecamp for Huayna Potosi. The refugio here is a nice change from the tents that we have spent the last few nights sleeping in. Heated rooms, ample storage and electrical outlets seem like a real luxury. The plan tomorrow is to move up to a hut higher on the mountain to get in position for our climb. The trail uphill is steep, but we will have porters helping with our load and expediting our progress. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear at 10,200’

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 4:58 PM PT Today we awoke to a clear and cold morning in camp and after breakfast we began the hour long climb up Ski Hill. Taking advantage of the brisk temperature, it allowed us to stay cool and good snow conditions had us walking in just our boots. Walking without snowshoes let us set a good pace to our cache site at 10,200 ft. At the cache, we left some group meals, extra personal food and gas that we don’t need for a few days. After burying our gear, we descended back to camp in bluebird skies, sun and incredible views of the Lower Kahiltna glacier. Soon enough however, the heat of the sun had us retreating back down to camp and into our tents for some rest and relaxation after a hard morning. The menu for tonight calls for some quesadillas, which is most often a favorite meal on the mountain! If the weather holds true tomorrow, we hope to make the ascent again tomorrow and move our camp to 11,200'. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Team Jones,
It’s exciting to read your blog everyday. Thanks for sharing this advantageous journey with us. Best luck to you guys! Luv you, Lei. Hao

Posted by: Hao on 6/2/2018 at 7:50 am

Good morning Nick and team! Love following along on this adventure. The pictures are beautiful. Praying for great weather and safe travels for all of you! Coeli (Nick’s Mom) XO

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/2/2018 at 6:13 am

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make a Run up the Fixed Lines

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Prepare For Summit Attempt on Huayna Potosi

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Getting Ready to Move to High Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs Reach the Crater

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Complete Seminar, Return to Talkeenta

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Pack Camp and Move to Huanya Potosi Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear at 10,200’

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