Alaska: Elias & Team Successfully Climb Moose’s Tooth

And we flew out! We got in a day early, and flew out a day early too, as to secure our exit off the glacier with the great weather we had: the runway at the Root Canal Glacier is no major airport where to secure a flight under the action of the elements. The trip ran very smoothly, and we're happy to have tackled this ultra classic line, "Ham and Eggs" up the Moose's Tooth, which is without a doubt, a haunting peak in the Alaska Range. Vanessa and Taylor trained the necessary technical skills not only to overcome the difficulties of the route, but to shine for the hours on end that climbing 3,000ft of steep ice, snow and mixed terrain entails in the remoteness of this environment. Now the team has parted ways, and we feel proud and accomplished. Regards from Anchorage! RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos
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Alaska: Elias & Team Back Down to Camp

Good afternoon from the Root Canal Glacier! We just descended from a successful, safe and adventurous climb up the Ham & Eggs Route on Moose's Tooth. We left yesterday at 6am, with great weather and enthusiasm. The route started very well, in great condition. The upper half, though, was bullet proof ice, which slowed our progress a bit. But we managed to maintain our calfs alive pitch after pitch of relentless intermediate angle blue alpine ice. After finishing, we stuck to our plan of spending the night at the col; perched at 10,000ft, on the exposed and corniced saddle that greets the few mortals who venture up this, one of the most impressive granite massifs of the Alaska Range. After a true alpine bivi, with our ropes as sleeping pads for the bottom half of our bodies, a two-person tent for three, and a belay to go to the bathroom, we woke up to questionable weather this morning, and so, we started our descent; some 16 rappels back down to the glacier. Now we’re back to our fresh vegetables, steak and beverages of choice at our camp. Our next report will be after we fly out from Talkeetna. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Alaska: Elias & Team Fly Onto the Root Canal Glacier

Greetings from The Root Canal Glacier! We were able to fly in yesterday, a day ahead of schedule thanks to our fantastic air taxi, K2, who had our logistics all planned upon our arrival in Talkeetna. We dug our camp right before the night fell, and enjoyed our first Alaskan dinner on the glacier. Today we dragged our feet and enjoyed the sunrise in our tent. After breakfast, we decided to go for a few pitches of the route, as to build team communications and to warm up for the big push. Now, we'll just take the best day that the weather throws at us; the Moose's Tooth awaits! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Long before we began to land there, i would come out of 747 pass and give my passengers a thrill, flying over the glacier and pass, i eventually named the root canel.  Glad to see the name stuck

Posted by: Tom klein on 5/12/2023 at 12:06 pm

Super stoked to read the blog. My wife is fearless. I’m so proud of your accomplishment Vanessa and your first bivi! Mick and I can’t wait for the photos and the story! Love Mickey and Brett.

Posted by: Brett Calta on 4/12/2018 at 10:57 am

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