Entries By miles watson

Saturday, June 20 - 7PM PST

At 2AM things didn’t look so great… there were big clouds and it was spitting snow on our 8K camp. After a cup of coffee, everything looked better and we rallied the team for moving day. We were on the trail just ahead of 5 AM and moving well in the cool shadows. Before long we were up Ski Hill and pulling on to the plateau at 9500 ft. We took a break near our 10K cache and then rounded the corner bound for 11K. The last hill was bigger and steeper but our team was firing on all cylinders and we cruised into our new home by 10AM. It took about 2.5 hrs to hammer out tent sites and a kitchen and dining tent but it then felt pretty good to move in to shelter from the intense high altitude sun. After a few days down in the valley of the Kahiltna, it is a thrill to be looking out at the Alaskan tundra to the NW and back down to 17,400 ft Mount Foraker to the SW.  The end of the West Buttress is gigantic above camp. We may actually get a thunder snow shower after dinner this evening as the cumulus clouds have been building and rumbling.

- RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Friday June 19th - 6:30PM PST

Perfect day for climbing to the head of the Kahiltna Glacier.  We woke at 2:30 AM, happy to find that we had new neighbors -Dan May’s RMI team, fresh from summit success, had set up next to us in the night.  We congratulated them (although they were still trying for a little sleep) and set out on our carry to 10,000 ft.  Conditions were excellent for travel, the surface had frozen up just right and our sleds were gliding effortlessly… except for when we were going uphill, which was most of the time.  We traveled well at any rate, reaching our target elevation before 9 AM, just as the first rays of sunshine were creeping over the end of the West Buttress. We dug a deep hole in the snow and cached food and fuel. The walk down was relatively easy with light packs.  Looking South we could see all the way to the Tordrillo Mountains on the horizon.  By late morning we were diving into our tents to beat the midday heat.  We hope to move up tomorrow.

-RMI Guide Dave Hahn
 

June 18th - 7PM PST

We started stoves at 12:30 AM today and hopped into our climbing boots.  Conditions looked to be perfect.  It was a clear night and the glacier surface had frozen up just right to make walking and sled dragging easy.  Or easier, at least.  As expected, it took a good while to get geared up, to break camp, get breakfasted and rigged for glacier travel. We were moving by 3:45 and watching the first sun way up on Mt Foraker’s 17,000 ft slopes. In contrast, we were still in deep shadow as we worked along the immense Kahiltna glacier.  By a little after eight, we’d already reached our destination for the day The base of Ski Hill at 8000 ft.  It took a few more hours to build a secure camp and then we made good use of it, diving in tents to avoid the midday sun.  We will carry a load up the glacier tomorrow and return to this camp.  All are feeling strong and enjoying the scenery.

-RMI Guide Dave Hahn
 

Wednesday, June 17, 2026 - 9:24 pm PT

Just like clockwork.  We ate a great Swiss Alaska breakfast, walked to the hangar, put on our boots and flew in to Kahiltna Base Camp.  It was a stunningly beautiful flight.  There were some clouds but our pilots found ways between them and put the ski equipped Otters down as gently as possible onstunningly beautiful flight.  There were some clouds but our pilots found ways between them and put the ski equipped Otters down as gently as possible on the SE Fork.  We were on by 10 AM which made for an easy day of building camp and conducting a review of glacier travel techniques.  We are surrounded by gigantic cliffs of ice and rock and by glaciers stretching for miles.  The guides served up a phenomenal burrito feast in our dining tent and the team turned in early.  We intend to get up in the middle of the night to go climbing.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn 

Tuesday, June 16, 2026 - 11:11 pm PT

As expected, today was a busy one.  We talked over our priorities and strategies. We sat with the National Park Service rangers for our required orientation.  We dialed personal gear, group gear and food quantities.  We packed and prepped and checked our systems.  Then we went into town, relaxed and ate pizza.  We are ready. We hope to fly in first thing tomorrow morning. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Four Day Climb (June 2-5) led by Joe Hoch and Ben Ammon turned at the top Cathedral Gap (10,640’) early this morning due to strong winds that were making climbing and continuing uphill very difficult. They are back at Camp Muir and plan to descend from Paradise later this morning. They will be back in Ashford this afternoon. 

Way to hang in there team!

RMI Guides Mike King and Avery Stolte and the Five Day Climb Teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:50am this morning. Mike reported a chilly morning with light winds. Both teams are on their descent back to Camp Muir and will head back to Paradise tomorrow. 

Congratulations!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today via the Emmons Glacier.  The team met at Rainier BaseCamp on Saturday May 23 for a full day Orientation, Equipment Check and pre-climb prep.  The following day the team spent the day training above Paradise practicing glacier travel, ice axe arrest and cramponing.  Packed and ready at 7 am on Monday morning, the team left Ashford headed for the White River Trailhead. The team ascended to the Inter Glacier where they set up camp and spent the night.  Yesterday, the team bumped to Camp Schurman and then launched their summti attempt early this morning.  By 7 am they were at 14,000' on their descent.  They will return to Camp Schurman to spend the night.  Tomorrow they may do a bit more training before they retrace their steps to the trailhead and make the drive back to Ashford.

Way to go team!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Joe Hoch turned at 10,800' at Cathedral Gap due to snow instability and potential avalanche danger.  The team returned to Camp Muir and plans to start their descent to Paradise around 9:30 am.  They will be back at Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

The Four Day Climbs August 10 - 13 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jackson Breen. It's a beautiful day with clear skies and great views.  The teams enjoyed some time on top before starting their descent from the crater rim around 6:40 am.  Once they reach Camp Muir they will take a short break and then continue the final 4,500' to Paradise.

Nice work team!