Entries from Alaska
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
Sunday, June 20, 2021 - 8:23 pm PT
This afternoon around 2pm the team stood on top of Denali! After weeks of hard work we got the sweet reward of the top.
We were the first team to summit in at least four days, which made for a true Alaskan climbing experience. We broke trail for 7.5 hours to get to the top. Most of the permanent protection was buried, so we placed our own and put in the track to the top!
Starting early made it so we had the peak to ourselves and really got a true experience of a summit day on Denali!
Now we just have to descend from 17K Camp to the upper airstrip over the next couple days. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
Sunday, June 20, 2021
Just like that… we woke up in Talkeetna and the clouds were gone. We scrambled on over to the airstrip at 8 AM and started putting on the big mountain boots. By a little after 9, we were up in the air in two glorious DeHaviland Otters… prop driven ski planes built in the 1950’s. The Alaska Range was visible in full from the moment we cleared the Talkeetna tree tops. Denali was spectacular and seemed bigger and steeper than in previous years. We flew straight at the peak and then moved a little West as we crossed into the mountains. Our K2 Aviation pilots eased the planes down on to the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 7100 ft and we slid to a stop at basecamp. A few minutes of shuffling and shuttling loads in mushy snow ensued. We built our camp and got settled in before a day of light training and a review of glacier travel techniques. As the day proceeded, we went from hot sunshine to cool overcast, but the clouds didn’t rob us of the magnificent views of impossibly big and steep mountainsides. We watched a handful of ginormous avalanches drop off various surrounding mountains. We capped the day with a burrito dinner and an early bedtime. Our hope would be to get up in the night and climb in the cool part of the early morning tomorrow.
Best Regards,
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 11:00 pm PT
Today was about prepping and packing. We got out to the airplane hangar early for a fine safety briefing by a National Park Service climbing ranger. We then conducted gear checks and set about organizing and sorting personal equipment and group gear. This took us through mid afternoon and culminated in a weigh-in with the K2 Aviation ramp crew -the folks responsible for loading and unloading the aircraft. We were happy to be sheltered within the hangar as it rained off and on through much of the day. The rain mellowed by the time we got into town for dinner at the brewery. Plenty of tourists in town enjoying the weekend, but we seemed to fit in just fine. Tomorrow, with a little luck, we’ll get on the mountain.
Best Regards,
Good luck Aaron!!! Thinking of you and can’t wait to see pictures of your climb! Be safe! Love you!
Susan ❤️
Posted by: Susan Wells on 6/21/2021 at 1:22 pm
Good luck to the entire team. Watch out for Aaron.
Posted by: Bob Telford on 6/20/2021 at 4:18 pm
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 3:51 pm PT
Today we woke up to snow and wind. We are resting and acclimating today, hoping to climb tomorrow!
RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 2:30 pm PT
We woke at 1am this morning and fired up stoves for a quick breakfast and a cup of coffee and then we set off down Heartbreak Hill to the Kahiltna Glacier and up the the base of Ski Hill. By traveling in the wee hours of the morning we were able to take advantage of firm snow conditions and comfortable temperatures for climbing, before the glacier turned into a solar oven.
The traveling was pretty straight forward, climbing over some crevasses and skirting around others. We made quick work of the mission, and four hours after setting out we found ourselves making camp.
After "brunch" we retreated to our tents for some rest and to get out of the searing sun.
We'll stay on the alpine start schedule for now and hope to carry a load of food and fuel up to somewhere close to 10,000' tomorrow before returning back down to our current camp. We'll let you know how it goes.
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT
It is usually a good sign when the easy part goes smooth and easy. Our team of seven climbers and guides flew in and met up in Alaska without a hitch. It was cloudy and overcast as we drove up from Anchorage, but not so much that we couldn’t get glimpses of the big mountains up mingling with the cloud tops. We stopped briefly in Wasilla for a few final provisions from the world of supermarkets, and then cruised on up the Parks Highway to the Talkeetna spur road. After settling our gear at the airplane hangar and ourselves at the hotel, we braved mosquito hoards and labor shortages to find a fine dinner at the West Rib. A well-fed climbing team then waddled out to the banks of the great Susitna River to see if the mountains had come out. Not quite, but we judged it all to be good enough for day one.
Best Regards,
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
Friday, June 18, 2021 - 8:43 am PT
Good morning from Kahiltna Base Camp. We were packed and ready to fly all day yesterday, but the weather wouldn't cooperate with our plans. After playing the waiting game for most of the day, we finally loaded up the two turbine Otters and launched towards the Alaska Range. We arrived at Basecamp at around 6pm and set up shop here. We'll spend the day here today and move to the Base of Ski Hill tonight when the snow freezes back up.
Praying for safety. Thanks for the update!! Rob, Dad got your postcard today and was thrilled to hear from you. Praying you all make it to the Summit!
Posted by: Marg Millman on 6/22/2021 at 6:25 pm
Miss you Daryl! Looking forward to the updates! Everyone asking about you everyday
Posted by: Katie on 6/21/2021 at 11:02 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Thursday, June 17, 2021 1:33 pm PT
This morning we woke up to a foot of new snow and the winds have been blowing 30 mph all day, which is slightly unpleasant but what we expected. There is a lot of strategy in expedition climbing, and this plan is part of that. We got up to 17,000' camp yesterday knowing it would not be possible today, and now we are in position to take advantage of tomorrow’s supposed high pressure.
Send good thoughts our way for good weather tomorrow!
RMI Guides JT, Alan, Kirra and the RMI team.
Vano, when you shotgun a beer at the summit, have you thought about the pressure change and how that beer may just buss everywhere? Please get back to me
-Heater
Posted by: Heater on 6/18/2021 at 5:10 am
Sending good thoughts!
Posted by: Ann on 6/17/2021 at 6:49 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday June 16, 2021 - 8:30 pm PT
Good evening,
Higher and higher we go! We continued moving gear uphill today. We left camp in the morning and made our way up motorcycle hill. It’s a rather steep hill, very much in your face. But with good cramponing and pressure breathing we made it to the top. Next, we cruised up squirrel hill, across the polo fields, around windy corner to our cache site. Some firm snow made digging our deep hole difficult but the effort is worth it so the ravens don't get at our food. The team is feeling good and looking great. We are all very excited to move to 14k camp tomorrow. There is a weather system possibly hitting the mountain Wednesday night so it will be nice to get out of 11k camp and up to 14k camp in case it produces a bunch of snow. Plus, a new scenery and home will be a fun change as well. It’s the little things that bring you joy on mountain.
Goodnight,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
I’m so exited for the entire team and the tremendous progress you have already made. I wish I could have been there with you Julia and I think about it every day as the memories we shared together from Reiner are as vibrant as if it was yesterday. I love you to the end of the universe and back and the entire family are routing for a wonderful experience out there together with your team. Älskar dig för alltid!! Pappa.
Posted by: Stefan Johansson on 6/16/2021 at 12:40 pm
Happy Anniversary Hector! Lots of love from NY
Posted by: Anna Haring on 6/16/2021 at 11:35 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, June 15, 2021 - 4:50 pm PT
We are enjoying a nice sunny rest day at 14,000’ camp today after our carry to 17,000’ yesterday. We are waiting to see what the weather has in store before we make our next move. All is well here at camp!
RMI Guides JT, Kiira, Alan and the RMI team
Go team go! Hoping for great weather and easy travels!
Posted by: Ellen on 6/16/2021 at 10:12 am
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Congratulations to my my son, Alan Davis and to the rest of the team on your summit! Dad couldn’t be more proud of you! A wonderful Father’s Day gift to have given me! Love you and safe travels to you and the team on your descent!
Posted by: Patrick Davis on 6/21/2021 at 1:03 pm
Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team, who summited Denali yesterday. Matt, you worked so hard training. In fact for this climb you started in 2020 only to have that trip canceled. Buddie, our sheltie, enjoyed his mountain climbing in Phoenix on your easy days of training. So glad your guides let you make a second attempt for the summit. And thank the guides for great up dates. Safe travel to the 6 of you down the mountain. Can’t wait to hear the stories.
Posted by: Mary and George Howell on 6/21/2021 at 12:07 pm
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