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The whole team stood on top of Pequeño Alpamayo today! We woke up to an almost shockingly warm night, and although it still got a little chilly at 17,000' at 4 am we spent most of the day in just one or two layers and thin gloves. Conditions were vastly better than the last time I climbed Pequeño in 2024, but don't be fooled, this was still a very long, hard day and everyone had to give it their all. To even get to the mountain one first must summit Tarija, itself a glaciated 5000m peak, before descending several hundred feet of 3rd and 4th class rock terrain to the saddle with Paqueño Alpamayo, all before the really steep climbing starts. All told you essentially summit three 5000 meter peaks, since you have to climb back up the rocks to Tarija on the way back, which makes for a pretty challenging "acclimatization" day, but such is the nature of climbing in the Cordillera Real. Hannah and I are both so proud of this team and impressed by everyone's efforts both on the mountain and in the preparation at home. We couldn't be more excited for two more big summit attempts within the next week!

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

5/17 - Another morning greated by the soft pitter patter of snow on the tents, as we unzipped the vestibule we were met by moderate snowfall, and low visibility. The waiting game begun. Wait to see if visibility increases, if winds decrease and if the snowfall stop after a few hours, none of those things happened and we settled into another weather day. A morning of breakfast scramble, followed by hours of tent time, some shoveling and some naps. The night was wrapped up with "burgers" and weather. Here's too tomorrow?!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team

Saturday, May 2, 2026 - 9:41 pm PT

We awoke to a wonderful sunrise and some unsettled weather that brought some rain and clouds in the morning. After quick breakfast, we donned skins and packed our bags for a summit attempt of Mount Baker. As we skinned up the glacier, the winds began to die and the clouds parted at approximately 10am. By the time we summited the snow was soft, the skies were clear and the winds were minimal. We enjoyed 5,000’ of perfect skiing straight back to camp. Tomorrow we plan to descend and celebrate a great program back in Sedro.

RMI Guide Sam Marjerison

Friday, May 1, 2026

Today started bright and early at 7am in Sedro-Woolley, where we met the team, double checked our kits and made a few last minute stops for food before driving up to the trailhead. After an hour of walking through the woods, we reached the snowline and began skinning up to the Easton Glacier. Breaks along the way gave us views of Mount Shuksan, Glacier Peak and the Picket Range. After setting up camp we enjoyed a great sunset and dinner. Tomorrow, we plan to ski from the summit of Mount Baker before descending back to camp.

The Four Day Climb led by Nikki Champion turned at the top of the Cleaver this morning due to high winds. They'll descend from Camp Muir around 9am and return back to Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon. 

Our Five Day Emmons Expedition led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier, Rosie Hust and Liam Moore left Camp Shurman early this morning in hopes of reaching the top of Mt. Rainier. At 7:45am they acheived their goal, summitting the 14,410' volcano. They're on the decent back to camp and will stay one more night at Camp Schurman to rest up before walking out tomorrow morning.

Nice work team!

Wednesday, June 17, 2026 - 9:24 pm PT

Just like clockwork.  We ate a great Swiss Alaska breakfast, walked to the hangar, put on our boots and flew in to Kahiltna Base Camp.  It was a stunningly beautiful flight.  There were some clouds but our pilots found ways between them and put the ski equipped Otters down as gently as possible onstunningly beautiful flight.  There were some clouds but our pilots found ways between them and put the ski equipped Otters down as gently as possible on the SE Fork.  We were on by 10 AM which made for an easy day of building camp and conducting a review of glacier travel techniques.  We are surrounded by gigantic cliffs of ice and rock and by glaciers stretching for miles.  The guides served up a phenomenal burrito feast in our dining tent and the team turned in early.  We intend to get up in the middle of the night to go climbing.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn 

Saturday, June 6th

Burns & team make it back to Talkeetna.

Congratulations everyone!

5/16 - We woke up to the light sound of snow on our tents, and a thick cloud bank. As we emerged, we couldn't see either end of camp. As the snow continued to fall, and winds blew, we slow rolled our morning waiting to see what the weather would bring. After a morning of paying attention to weather, and some logistical problem solving, we opted for a weather day. 

The morning consisted of bagels, cream cheese, bagels and storytelling of infamous first dates. The afternoon was filled with sport eating, resting and building walls around camp to prepare for any incoming weather. We finished off our day with a dinner of pad Thai, listening to the weather, and mountain wide trivia. If weather allows we will move to 11 camp tomorrow.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
 

Tuesday, May 26, 2026 - 10:36 pm PT

The orange snake slithers slowly in front of me, at a mountaineers pace I follow it knowing it is going where I can find shelter, food, and water. Flexing left cheek, right cheek, then left again. We stop for a break and laugh and smile at each other as we check for signs of our faces getting too cold. Puffies on, stay warm, move your fingers and toes. Breaks over, both too short and too long as we are tired but need to move to stay warm. 

I'm following the orange serpent to wherever it takes me next.

RMI Climber Wayne

Well it’s safe to say no one expected that we would make 11k camp our home for 9 days but the mountain is our mistress and the weather has the final say. Finally our patience paid off and the weather was ideal for moving to 14k camp.

This morning we packed slowly, waiting for the sun to hit camp and raise the mercury to positive digits. It took a significant effort to dig up and breakdown camp since we had weathered multiple storms here. Our team wasn’t the only ones prepared to move in the good weather. Almost the entirety of camp emptied out and ascended up the mountain, either to move to 14k camp or to cache supplies to prepare for their own move in the following days. It’s safe to say we were in and out of conga lines of mountaineers all throughout the day.

When we finally rolled into camp - the team was tired but elated to finally be at our new home. The mantra was slow and steady as we built camp in the thin 14,000 foot air. The ambient air temp is chilly willy as we snuggle into our large down sleeping bags and think warm thoughts. We will not leave these cocoons until the sun hits our tents tomorrow.

Cheers,
Jack and the Team