Most Popular Entries

Monday, May 25th 11:30pm PST

Today was a tough day. We woke up to clear skies, and the signs of high winds at upper elevations. We quickly tore down camp and finally started the move to 14 camp. The first stretch was pleasant, but by the top of motorcycle hill we were met by strong winds the winds only persisted up squirrel hill and across the polo fields, but it was at windy corner where we were met by the worst of the weather. A cloud overtook us, winds increased and visibility decreased, but the team pushed through and gained visibility by the cache site. Eventually, we made it to 14 camp and set up our new home. We wrapped the night up with pad thai.
 

RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team

RMI Teams led by guides Dustin Wittmier and Tom Skoog made it to the top of Mt Rainier this morning around 6:15am. After several days of extremely high winds, they reported light winds and nice temperatures. They will return to Ashford this afternoon. 

Great work, team! 

Sunday, May 10 11:19 AM PT

As we woke at 3:30am for our summit day, excited with our mostly sunny forecast, a wet cloud settled into camp and over the Squak glacier. Crowds of skiers passed us up into the white-out, but we decided to have another cup of coffee in our tents. The weather will do what it wants on Mt Baker it seems. 

And lucky for us, an hour later it decided to grant us a little clearing, and by an hour into our tour uphill, not a cloud in the sky. This added a lucky euphoria to the already stunning views of the North Cascades all the way to Mt Rainier. 

It was a solid refreeze overnight, and as we cramponned up a solidly frozen Roman Wall, the question of skiing this steep frozen mogul field weighed on everyone. But we had a wild card up our sleeves. 

After our triumphant photo session on Mt Baker’s summit, we clicked into skis and skied directly into the Barbeque Run, straight off the summit into the smoking crater of the volcano. It has a little more east exposure and a little volcanic activity, and was perfect soft carving! 

A short skin took us to the top of the Squak Glacier, and as we carved perfect shiny corn snow for the next 4000 vertical feet, the only reason to stop was to give the legs a little break. It doesn’t get much better than 20 minutes of perfect carving snow to camp. 

We packed up camp and were treated with a fun session of snow to forest floor to snow patch skiing which had everyone giggling like kids. Doesn’t get much better on Mt Baker!

RMI Guide Joe Hoch & Team

RMI's Four Day Climb summited Mt. Rainier this morning and were descending from the crater at 6:45am. They reported a warm morning with some light breeze on the top of the Disappointment Cleaver. The group celebrated RMI Guide Mike King's 100th summit of Mt. Rainier!

They're currently on their way back to Camp Muir and will return to Ashford this afternoon. Congrats, team!

We're all settled in up Huayna high camp. Yesterday we enjoyed a mellow morning at Condoriri Base Camp, and then made our way back to the bus with the help of the mules once again. From there it was back up and over the pass separating the eastern side of Huayna from the Condoriri zone and down Refugio Vista Panorámica Huyana Potosi, a lovely and comfortable mountain lodge with stunning views of the route we're climbing tonight. Everyone got a long and welcome night of sleep, and we moved well up the steep and rocky trail to the high hut at almost 17k'. Our wonderful cook staff from Andean Summits has prepared a delicious lamb and rice lunch for us, and now everyone is having a siesta ahead of another alpine start tonight!

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo & Team

The Five Day Kautz Climb, led by RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo, climbed to the top of the Kautz Ice Chute this morning and continued to approximately 13,000 feet before determining that overnight rain had significantly deteriorated the route conditions. With safety as the top priority, the team made the decision to turn around and begin their descent.

The climbers will return to camp, spend one final night on the mountain, and complete their descent to the Paradise trailhead tomorrow, concluding their five-day adventure.

The four-day climb stayed at Camp Muir today and were unable to climb due to heavy snow and wind. Gusts were nearly 60 miles per hour overnight. 

Way to stay strong up there team!

Five-day Kautz climb led by RMI Gudie Sam Marjerison turned around shortly after heading up into the ice chute after snow and ice conditions proved to be inadequate to climb. The recent snow and wind has continued to affect the Ingraham Direct route, and the Kautz is seeing a similar result, as well. The team will return to Ashford this afternoon. 

Nice work team!

Monday, June 29, 2026 - 10:39 pm

A big step forward today! We made our carry up on to the West Buttress at 16,200ft. The morning at 14K was calm, we were in and out of the clouds and snow, but it was clear above so we went for it. We started up just as the sun came around the South Peak, moderating the cold temps. The first hills were familiar, of course, but this time we could actually see where we were, so that helped. It was exciting to finally get on the fixed rope section and do some steep climbing. The team did quite well and we topped out about 3.5 hrs after leaving camp. There was a little breeze on the ridge, but it was delightfully calm where we stopped to cache our supplies. The descent was in clouds and falling snow again, but we were pointed in the correct direction for such conditions. Back in camp we rested and prepared to move to high camp.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mount Baker season is here! We met at Bingham Park and got right into it. We framed our climb around team work and risk management, so we spent our morning setting that up with a thorough gear check and packing lesson. We laid out our plans and previewed how each segment plays into our team risk management strategy. The first day would be all about learning the pace and self-care we would need on the upper mountain. We quickly found a pace that could only be described as relentlessly moderate. After a couple hours of hiking in the cool temps we got to our rock outcrop at Sandy Camp. After a brief break to take in the views of the Sisters Range and the Puget Sound, we made a robust snow camp. Snow camping, we determined, is a craft best learned in the warm temps and long days near the Solstice. 

The following day we used our Snow School to fill out our risk management plan by learning the skills to handle moving through snow and ice. Our morning hours were cool enough to provide the firm snow that makes school most rewarding. We learned to walk like French mountain guides (upright with a baguette in hand) and to climb in the heavy metal style of German technique. In the afternoon we roped up and learned to stop each other from falling down the mountain. A small, steep roll in the terrain provided the perfect place to develop trust in our teammates by flinging ourselves down the slope.  

In the wee hours, we awoke and prepared for the climb ahead. We put our plan into play and began the climb uphill with the same group pace we learned on the way to camp. Our team was at the front of a line of 50 or so climbers. While some would pass us for a moment here and there, we managed to keep astride of all comers with our diligent, steady pace. After two of our comrades ended their climb at the crater rim, we carried on up the Roman Headwall. This final steep step tested our new cramponing skills as the boot track was crawling with people. We decided to step out of the track and were rewarded with perfect Styrofoam conditions for cramponing. At the summit, which we had to ourselves, we had a group dance party and took all the pictures. 

Motivated by thoughts of Steak Fajitas and Margaritas, we descended swiftly through punchy snow, and down sandy trail to our cars at Park Butte TH. A short hour later, we shared a final meal at the ever-classic end-of-trip spot Lorenzo's. 

- RMI Guide Joe Crawford