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June 13, 2026

Today we made it to 11 camp! The team started early with a 4:30 wake up and a quick breakfast to make it up to 11 just before the clouds rolled in.

At 11 everyone quickly got to work buffing out tent platforms and creating a “cathedral” of a kitchen tent.

We are all settled in now and with cheese cake for desert and lots of monopoly go we are ready for any clouds that come our way. Now time for some well deserved we shall see what tomorrow brings!

- RMI Guide Avery Stolte

Wednesday, May 27, 2026 - 10:14 pm PT

Ah, a sweet sweet rest day. After a few days of solid work, the team deserved it. We slept in, and spent the morning sharing breakfast scrambles of hashbrowns, eggs and bacon (some soy bacon as well...), before settling into our tents for a few hours. The afternoon was spent working on the skills necessary to tackle the fixed lines tomorrow so we practice running belays, fixed line work, and steep crampon techniques. The weather was in and out, and wrapped the evening up with some more jambalaya and chats about the coming days. After our acclimation day tomorrow, we will be looking for a weather window that safely aligns.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Wednesday, May 20, 2026 - 4:52 pm PT

Made it up to Condoriri basecamp today with the help of about a dozen mules. After setting up camp and having lunch we kept walking up to the toe of the glacier at around 16,000,' where we spent a few hours reviewing some more advanced mountaineering skills- steep cramponing, ice climbing and lowering and rappelling. We're getting to bed early ahead of an alpine start tomorrow, we'll check in when we're all back in camp tomorrow afternoon!

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

The Four Day climb led by RMI guides Nikki Champion and Joe Crawford attempted to summit this morning. Shortly after leaving Camp Muir, they experienced lightening which led to them turning around. The lightning continued until 4am. They reported a dark cloud deck below, and a cloud cap above. They enjoyed a sunrise hike to Muir Peak instead. They will descend to Paradise this morning and be back in Ashford this afternoon. 

Nice work up there!

Thursday, June 25, 2026 - 12:55 am PT

Denali Dispatch 6/24/26

Thoughts on Patience:

As Ben says, if this mountain teaches you anything it’s patience.

Patience with the weather, with the conditions and with each other. It’s easy to forget on the days of warm sun, calm winds and endless views that Denali isn’t always this way. That she can change her mind in a moments notice and have you walking in circles from whiteout conditions and cursing her tent rattling winds as you try and sleep.

But one way or another patience always pays off. To remeber that the sun is always shining somewhere above the clouds and that these glaciers and rocks have been here long before us patiently observing each passerby. Our time on this mountain is short in the grand scheme of things and I know everyone here will soon miss the simplicity of life on Denali. The rhythm we have found over leisurely breakfast conversation, camp walks, reading, writing and excess games of M-deal. Our time here is utterly human- working as a team to do what we need to survive.

So as today marks day 8 of being at 14,000' Camp and waiting to see when the mountain will invite us higher. We once again practice patience. Waiting in this jaw dropping alpine amphitheater for the mountain to tell us we have been patient long enough and it’s our turn to try and touch the top.

So as we get excited and motivated to move higher. We must remeber to move at rhythm of the mountain slow and steady. Observing, listening and being. Always remembering that in a moments notice she can decide to test our patience once again.

It is such a privilege to be among these echoing cliffs and snowy spines and I’m so proud of our team for keeping their spirits high among the waiting game. There is so much time to still be had here and I feel lucky I get to practice my patience with each and every one of you. 

Now let’s patiently wait to see what tomorrow brings!

With love from 14k camp,

RMI Guide Avery Stolte and team!

Great News!

Dan May and 100% of the team reached the summit of Denali! 

Sunday, June 14th - 11:15PM PST
Greetings from team DDM at 14k! We started our morning with some high winds that almost flattened our cook tent. Once we reset our anchors, we enjoyed a nice rest day full of naps and snacks. Thank you to Seth and Jackson for leaving all of their cookies for us to enjoy. Our dear climber Zack sang us a song about camp DDM at 14k to the tune of Pink Pony Club. We will enjoy another rest day tomorrow full of more snacks, prep for our move to 17k, and more singing.

Cheers!
-RMI Gudie Mac

Wednesday, June 24, 2026 - 9:44 pm PT

Well the storm was still around today but it got done piling snow on our tents by 5AM.  We ended up getting a pretty sunny calm day. There were still clouds everywhere but not on us. Having received at least a foot of new snow in a relatively short time, we needed the slopes to cook and settle in the sunshine to cut down on avalanche possibilities. They seemed to be doing just that.  Will Ambler gave a master class in snow/avalanche science to our assembled climbing team this afternoon.  We’ve now got our eyes on a move up to 14,000' tomorrow morning in what should be good weather.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Friday, June 12th - 11:30PM PST

Sorry forgot to post yesterdays dispatch. Here is today’s:

The team had a good active rest day today. After sleeping in, we enjoyed a good hot breakfast. We then hiked over to the edge of the world to enjoy the beautiful vista, and to get our legs good and warmed up for tomorrow. This afternoon, we practiced rope skills for tomorrow's anticipated acclimatization trip up the fixed lines. With bellies full from dinner, we are ready for another good night of sleep at 14,000 feet. 

- RMI Climber Paxton
Junior Assistant Dispatcher (In training)
 

Friday, June 12th - 10PM PST

Upward progress continues as the team takes advantage of early momentum on the mountain. Conducting their first carry of the expedition, nearly half of their equipment, food, and gear was moved up to just below 11 camp at just above 10k feet. Slighter cooler temps made for a more pleasant push, and the team made the round trip effort in just over six hours. The rest of the day let way to rest and a timely dinner, finalizing with packing for the push to the next camp. All is well and stoke remains high as the team prepares to continue onward and upward.