Entries from Mt. McKinley
Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 11:02 pm PT
Things were perfect to move to 14,000' Camp today when we woke up, except that all of camp had the same idea too, and were up early as well. We decided it would make a lot of sense to enjoy a good smoked salmon breakfast and let the unbroken line of climbers that stretched from the top of Motorcycle Hill work things out. A few hours later, we were packed, no teams in sight, and we rolled out of camp heading uphill. A high, thin cloud layer and light breeze kept us happily cool through breezy turn. As we came out the other side though, the wind died and it got HOT! We climbed the last bit of elevation and happily arrived at 14,000' Camp. We dug in a nice camp for the next several days next to the first RMI team and gathered for dinner and cherry cheesecake before the chill of our new, higher home drove us to our sleeping bags. Tomorrow is a rest day. We're psyched.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, May 21, 2022 - 9:49 pm PT
Today we poked our heads out of our bags just as the sun was doing the same above the eastern horizon. Believe it or not it can be incredibly hot on Denali, and today was one of those days.
We got out and up to 11,000' Camp in great form, just as the inferno hit. We set up camp while the glaciers around us reflected the long wave radiation, making it feel as if we were in a microwave. But regardless we got camp set up and got some time to relax.
It’s been a grueling few days and now we get to enjoy the relative comfort of 11,000' Camp.
That’s all for now.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
May 21 - 10:36am
Yesterday we woke up to blue skies and no wind, perfect for our carry to high camp. After a quick breakfast we roped up and headed out of camp. We ascended the fixed lines in the sun and traversed the stunning West Buttress in incredible weather. Arriving at 17,000 feet in high spirits we cached our gear for a summit push and descended the way we came. After an 11-hour day we enjoyed a well-deserved meal of Mac and cheese with bacon and tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags to rest. Today, we will continue resting at 14k camp with warm weather, enjoying listening to Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me over brunch and coffee!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 20 - 11:42pm
We made full value out of our rest day today. We woke late, had a brunch of blueberry pancakes and maple syrup, lounged for the better part of the day, and capped it with burritos for dinner. We have had no problem eating well.
Our main entertainment has been a very large team made up of members of the British military. We are all on a similar schedule, and subsets of their team have been filtering into camp the last couple days. As of today, our camp is encircled on three sides. The main constant in the wide variety of British accents constantly around us is the abundance of the F bomb. That word cuts through all accents and after our informal survey today shows up on average as every third word. There has been general hilarity listening to their banter through our tent walls and it was a main topic of discussion over dinner tonight.
We plan to move up to 14 tomorrow. Rested and refreshed after today, it should be done enjoyable climbing.
If anyone sees the “BRIT” soldiers can you tell a certain ADAM OCONNOR that his mum and dad are rooting for him and the rest of the group that fingers crossed they get to the top…
Posted by: David on 5/23/2022 at 2:21 pm
Is Roy Kent climbing with the British group? :) Hello to Chris, Steve and Stu! Good luck on the next stage! Be a goldfish!
Posted by: Kimmy Romine on 5/21/2022 at 12:03 pm
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday May 20 - 10:38pm
Today we woke to another perfectly sunny windless day. The team moved strongly up to 10,000 feet where we cached gear to retrieve later.
After that we made short work of the descent, and are now back at camp 1, hoping to move up the mountain tomorrow!!
JT and the RMI team
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 12:35 am PT
Today the team woke up from a tumultuously excited slumber to bluebird skies and calm winds in Talkeetna, which apparently mirrored the conditions in the Alaska range. Due to our fastidious preparation the day before we stepped off the asphalt onto two full loaded Dehavilland Otters shortly after 830.
As the wheels left the tarmac we were treated to the most incredible flight into the Alaska Range I have ever experienced. It seemed as if we could see forever, and that’s because I’m pretty sure we could. The winds were so calm that we could fly through passes with granite and glaciers towering above the planes, seemingly no more than a wingspan away.
As the skis of the Otters came to a stop we were pleased to hear the sound of frozen crunchy snow beneath our boots. After a few hours of re packing and reviewing skills, we walked to Camp 1 under deep blue skies, wearing nothing but our sun hoodies and toothy grins.
Now we are settled into our sleeping bags, much like our camp is nestled in the immense beauty of the alaska range.
RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.
Hello Ken! What amazing scenery! Our best wishes to you and your team members for a safe and successful climb! We’ll be following your progress.
Diane and John
Posted by: Diane and John Bertosa on 5/21/2022 at 11:11 am
What beautiful pictures!! Must have been an amazing flight and glad to hear the walk to Camp 1 elicited more grins than groans (although one could not fault you for leaving those out of the blog!). Thanks so much for posting!!
Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/21/2022 at 3:41 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 10:57pm PT
It was a perfect day to switch from lower glacier load hauling to actually climbing. The weather was clear and calm in the morning, so we pumped through a bagel breakfast, grabbed loads of food and fuel, and set our sights on motorcycle hill. Many teams cache at 13,5k just past windy corner, but we had our sights set on 14. The first several hours were pleasant. Sunny, but with just enough air moving to keep us comfortable. Rounding windy corner, there wasn't a breath of wind. The sauna turned on and we all had mild cases of heat panic. We cruised on into 14,000’ camp and got to say hi to Mike Walter and team, who were kind enough to top off some water bottles. With our goal secured, we turned and beat feet back to camp.
It was a solid day out and hard work, so we will reward ourselves with the first proper rest day of the trip tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and Team
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 6:08 pm PT
Today we enjoyed another sunny rest day at 14,000' Camp. Without a breath of wind and cloudless skies we enjoyed possibly the best views of the trip so far. Frigid morning temps quickly gave way to pleasant heat as soon as the sun hit camp. After a casual breakfast we made our way across camp and over to "The Edge of the World," a stunning precipice overlooking the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. Looking down at the tiny dots of Ski Hill camp it was hard to believe we were there just a few days ago! Before retuning to camp we reviewed the skills and gear associated with fixed rope travel in anticipation of our carry up the fixed lines tomorrow. This afternoon has been spent resting and gathering the supplies we intend to cache. As our acclimatization continues and sunny weather persists we are all feeling excited to see the upper mountain. Tomorrow should be a great day for a walk up high!
So glad to be able to follow your adventure. Sending good energy your way as you continue to ascend. Morgan and Ed also send their regards. We keep all of you in our thoughts.
Posted by: Maria Alexandra Velez on 5/20/2022 at 3:34 pm
Thinking of you all from Scotland and hoping you have a great climb. Charles and Jennifer
Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/20/2022 at 7:27 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
Wednesday, May 18, 2022 - 11:19 pm PT
Here is the first dispatch from the third RMI Denali team! We are all packed up and ready to fly in the morning. Our team was efficient and prepared today as we organized all the necessary items for a Denali expedition. The weather is beautiful in Talkeetna and we are excited for the climb ahead.
RMI guides Jackson Breen, Matias Francis, JT Schmitt and team.
They’ve got great guides!
Posted by: George Strait on 5/20/2022 at 2:16 pm
Looks like a strong team!!!
Posted by: Anna Budayr on 5/20/2022 at 7:35 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Thursday, May 18, 2022 - 12:46 am PT
We took our time over coffee and breakfast burritos this morning, enjoying the slow start and the warming sun that doesn't hit camp until 9 am. Satiated, we left camp and moved quickly downhill to our cache at 9600', relishing the opportunity to stride it out and cover ground. We passed a lot of teams headed towards 11,000' Camp, slowly trudging under the loads of big packs and full sleds. With our cache retrieved, we worked out way back uphill to our cozy camp. Overall, 11,000' Camp felt like it doubled in size today and lots of folks were strolling around, enjoying a warm afternoon. We'll look to continue our momentum tomorrow caching a load of fuel and food up high near Windy Corner.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Wonderful reading the news. We are with you in spirit. Enjoy. Love, Barbara
Posted by: Barbara Corona on 5/20/2022 at 6:11 am
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Brad Enjoy the climb, your getting near the top, be smart and safe. Love Mom and Dad
Posted by: Larry Shears on 5/22/2022 at 5:03 pm
Armchair traveling this ascent with you all! I can’t imagine what it must feel like to be so close! Keep hydrating, MAK!
Posted by: Jenn on 5/22/2022 at 11:42 am
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