RMI Expeditions Blog


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Spend an Extra Rest Day at Khumjung

Namaste from Khumjung. We are taking an extra day here, based on the wind forecast for the next few days. This way we don't find ourselves up high on Kyajo Ri in a bad spot. We did, regardless, go for a walk towards the pass that will take us tomorrow towards base camp; a nice way to spend the morning and continue to let the body work acclimatizing. A local momo feast (local Nepali dumpling) near our lodge wrapped up the morning, and we chilled for the rest of the day. Hopefully the excitement of the actual climb starts in a few hours! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Good luck team !!  Safe Climb!  Try to enjoy the beauty along with this challenge adventure thanks for the update and the photos.

Posted by: Theresa Greving on 11/3/2018 at 7:33 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Prepare to Move to High Camp

You do you muffin, you do you, is how I would describe today. We all enjoyed different activities to recharge our mind and body before we make our move uphill tomorrow. Two of us went scrambling on some not so quality rock, while others went up the rolling grass hills above Base Camp. Some enjoyed a relaxing day listening to music, reading books, making jewelry or braiding hair. This afternoon we all gathered to sort out a game plan for our climb on Sunday and for the handful of days after. We have to schedule for porters to come up and help us break down Base Camp before we head uphill. We are all rather excited for the coming days. We have been waiting for this moment to climb something for roughly two weeks, with one of those weeks spent at Base Camp. Tomorrow everyone will make their way to the High Camp at their leisure and settle in before we climb the next morning. Talk to you all at high camp, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Love you Glo!

Posted by: Michelle the Mom! on 11/2/2018 at 10:25 pm

Good luck and be safe. I love you all! And to Bridget… what can I say?

Posted by: Elías de Andrés Martos on 11/2/2018 at 8:52 am


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Ready for Kyajo Ri

Namaste from Khumjung! We are taking a rest day today in this beautiful village, with a true local feel and direct views of Ama Dablam. After arriving yesterday from Thame, we officially finished our trekking around Gokyo, and our minds are no set to climbing mode. We're spending the day chilling, prepacking, and reviewing a few things before heading up tomorrow towards Kyajo Ri. Stay tuned for our progress up the first of our climbing objectives! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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So excited for you all! The day has arrived. Be safe and have fun!
“Walk away quietly in any direction and taste the freedom of the mountaineer.”
―  John Muir

Posted by: Beverly on 11/2/2018 at 5:38 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Practice Fixed Roped Travel

We heard from our team members at high camp that the route has been fixed. They reported that that the route is a mixture of blue ice and snow. They have a fixed line all the way to the ridge. The ridge, however, is too dangerous to walk along due to poor snow quality. They are optimistic though that the team can make it onto the ridge and enjoy some beautiful views. We are all excited to get the chance to climb something. As for the rest of us today, we fixed our own rope in a gully outside of camp, that had some ice in it, to give the Nepali girls more practice before the real deal. They all did great, with one of them showing real potential in the mountains. Tomorrow we rest, to give our teammates that have been working so hard to put in a route, a well-deserved break. On Saturday the whole team will move up and try our hand. All the best, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Good luck and safe climbing!

Posted by: Michelle the mom on 11/2/2018 at 8:32 am

Good luck team!  Can’t wait to see some pictures.

Posted by: Shannon Smith on 11/1/2018 at 4:34 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Trek to 5,000 meters, Ready to Start Their Climb

Another great day in the mountains! We reached for the second time the altitude of 5000 meters in our acclimatizing trek, going over Renjo Pass. The views from the top of 4 of the 6 tallest mountains in the world, were astonishing and motivating. Descending to Thame was energizing as the air felt thicker. We're now ready to switch gears, and start focusing on our first objective! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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So excited for you all! Long awaited day has finally arrived!
“No synonym for God is so perfect as Beauty. Whether as seen carving the lines of the mountains with glaciers, or gathering matter into stars, or planning the movements of water, or gardening - still all is Beauty!”
―  John Muir

Posted by: Beverly on 11/1/2018 at 5:48 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Continue to Train and Acclimatize

After packing our packs, organizing our tents, and eating lunch, we were ready to head uphill. Unfortunately though, we have been stalled at Base Camp. Our team members at High Camp radioed down that they need more time and rope to fix the route. They said the route is a bit icy and not great snow, but they seem optimistic that we will be able to give it a whirl in a few days. Till then we will continuing hanging out at Base Camp, practicing more with the girls and going on hikes. It's a good thing it's so pretty here and one can easily occupy themselves. Happy Halloween! RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Well you’re really getting to know the place. Sounds like you’re going with the flow.

Posted by: Michelle the Mom on 10/31/2018 at 8:30 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Trek to the Base of Cho Oyu

Good evening! What a day we had... We trekked to the base of Cho Oyu, where the seldom expeditions that climb is south side set their Base Camp. Man we felt small! We also had the best views that any trekker can have of Everest and Lhotse together (without climbing any peak) from any trail in the Khumbu Region. But we had to work hard, as this was the team's first day above 5000m. An uneventful return, and we were enjoying a nice dinner at our lodge by the shore of Gokyo Lake. We're headed to bed, as another long day awaits tomorrow. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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What a beautiful photo. Very excited for you all and your continued forward (and upward) progress!
“Long, blue, spiky-edged shadows crept out across the snow-fields, while a rosy glow, at first scarce discernible, gradually deepened and suffused every mountain-top, flushing the glaciers and the harsh crags above them. This was the alpenglow, to me the most impressive of all the terrestrial manifestations of God. At the touch of this divine light, the mountains seemed to kindle to a rapt, religious consciousness, and stood hushed like devout worshippers waiting to be blessed.”
―  John Muir,  The Wild Muir: Twenty-Two of John Muir’s Greatest Adventures

Posted by: Beverly on 10/31/2018 at 5:34 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Rest And Train

Resting and training were the theme of today. We took time to practice using the ascenders and different techniques for descending the fixed line with the Nepali girls. They did a great job and are getting more excited for the climb ahead, as are the rest of the team. Rest days can seem long but the team is pretty creative in keeping busy. Some made jewelry, while others went to the big boulder, that we call our Nepali gym to work on abs and pull-ups. We ended the day with a delicious cherry cake for dessert. The cook has done an amazing job making us delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinners. Tomorrow we will find out from our team members at our high camp whether we move up or take another test day. Buenos noches, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Gloria,
We are checking the blogs everyday to keep up with this great adventure you are on.  Dana says if he was your age that’s where he would want to be!  He caught a salmon in your honor today.  Good luck with everything.  Hope you summit.  We love you!!!!!! 
Susan

Posted by: Susan Reid on 10/30/2018 at 5:57 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Arrive in Gokyo Village

Namaste! Another great day of terrible weather and awful landscapes... Just kidding. We are having an incredible time, as everyone's physiology is adapting seamlessly to the altitude of the Himalaya, and that allows for a better enjoyment of the trail, the views and cultural experience. We just arrived to our lodge in Gokyo at 4800m, and next to the Dudh Pokhari, a turquoise lake that bears the same name, and with Cho Oyu in the distance, the sixth tallest mountain of the world, a magical stay is guaranteed. That's all for now! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
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VERY Beautiful, thank you for sharing. Safe travels

Posted by: Brenda on 10/30/2018 at 4:08 pm

Everyone looking great! Scenery looks awesome. Enjoy!
“We are now in the mountains and they are in us, kindling enthusiasm, making every nerve quiver, filling every pore and cell of us.”
―  John Muir,  My First Summer in the Sierra

Posted by: Beverly on 10/30/2018 at 5:58 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Carry to High Camp

The team made a carry to our high camp at 15,400'. We will attempt to climb Edurne Peak in a few days. Tomorrow or perhaps the next day, three climbing Sherpa and two other team members will head back up to our high camp and begin putting up fixed line on the route. The entire route will be fixed from high camp. If they decide there is not enough rope or it is not possible, we will not climb. The team as a whole does not have enough experience to climb without the fixed line. The rest of the team will rest and do some training at basecamp tomorrow. Fingers crossed the weather remains good and the route can safely go. Namaste, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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