Alpamayo: Elias & Team Back in the Thicker Air of Base Camp

Greetings from Alpamayo BC! We initiated our descent this morning from high camp and retraced our steps back out of the kingdom of the ice and into the warm confines of base camp. We are excited to savor lower altitude air and the amazing food of our cook. Our plan is to head out tomorrow and get into town in the evening. We are all super proud of our climb, yet looking forward to telling our accounts in person to our loved ones, so stay tuned for our arrival tomorrow into town! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Summit!

Hola from C2... And we did it!!! We climbed and summited today what's arguably one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth. Brian, Tom and James climbed in style the super direct line that after nine pitches of consistent 75 degrees on hard névé and ice takes you to the airy top shy of 20,000ft. We woke up at midnight to a beautiful night, and after breaking trail for half hour to the bergschrund, we found ourselves doing what we came to do; swinging our tools into the frozen element of this wall that is the SW Face of Alpamayo. Right at dawn we were straddling the summit and while tired, the sense of accomplishment was as big as the effort we put forth. We earned every feet of the climb by swinging and kicking and pulling and pushing... Now we are in bed, after having enjoyed another meal prepared two days ago by our cook, which we carried up to reheat in our camp stoves; fried rice with beef and fries... At 18,000ft, that feels like cheating when we see other teams eat freeze-dried food. Did we say we care about style points? That's all for now, we will update you tomorrow of our plans for the last couple days. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Reach the Summit!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checked in this morning with the great news that he and 100% of his team reached the summit of Alpamayo. The team climbed strong and reached the top at 6:30 am local time. Elias reported very cold temperatures. They are back at camp resting now and will check in later today. Congratulations Team!
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To Elias and the entire Alpamayo team,

Congratulations on your successful summit attempt! I bet you will all sleep well tonight.

George and Colleen Mast

Posted by: George Mast on 7/17/2017 at 3:48 pm


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Move to Camp 2, Ready for Summit Attempt

Buenas tardes from Camp 2 on Alpamayo! We woke up with the sun today, and made the ascent to high camp in a mere three hours, leaving behind the maze that the east glacier of Alpamayo has become by now. Our porters came up sharp at 6 am to Camp 1 at the moraine from Base Camp, and brought us fresh banana pancakes cooked two hours prior by our cook Emilio. They helped us tear camp down, and clipped in to our ropes to head up. All of us together were happy to have beat the crowds and the sun that by our arrival before noon was already too hot. We are doing very well and we feel very positive about going for the summit tonight! The French Direct up the SW Face of Alpamayo awaits with it's 450m of steep ice. Stay tuned for our progress tomorrow. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Hello, Elias,

Once again, thank you for your posts and the beautiful photographs. Good luck to the team on your summit push! Please watch over each over.

George Mast

PS: Please tell Tom that Federer took Wimbledon.

Posted by: George Mast on 7/16/2017 at 9:11 pm


Alpamayo Expedition: Elias & Team Move to Camp 1

Good morning from Camp 1 on Alpamayo! There were several other teams at basecamp so we got an early start for our move uphill in order to get claim the prime real estate here at Moraine Camp (Camp 1). So here we are, all camped up, enjoying the views, and getting mentally ready for our move up to Camp 2 tomorrow. The weather continues to be perfect, our bodies are performing well, and all is pretty much lined up for us to have a good climb. That's all for now. We'll check in tomorrow. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team.
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Alpamayo Expedition: Elias & Team Enjoy a Rest Day

Good evening! We enjoyed a sunny rest day at Alpamayo Base Camp. The weather here is incredible, and we took a small hike to Arwaycocha Lake a few hundred feet above camp to stretch our legs before reviewing climbing techniques with our ropes and hardware in the vicinity of our tents. We are hoping to head to Camp 1 tomorrow morning. We are all doing great and excited to move uphill. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
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Alpamayo Expedition: Elias and Team Carry to Camp 1

Greetings again from Alpamayo Base Camp. We took advantage of the great weather we have and decided to hike up to Camp 1 and do a carry today. We will rest tomorrow instead and let our bodies acclimatize... but we have already reached 5,000 meters! We are all enjoying a good time here and besides the astonishing views, the highlight continues to be our cook Emilio's food; fresh trout with quinoa from his farm has been definitely the biggest hit so far. That's it for now! Stay tuned, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Reach Base Camp

Good evening from Alpamayo Base Camp. We have spent the last couple days hiking on the Santa Cruz trek to get here. We have had beautiful weather and incredible views that the towering peaks around us provide. Tomorrow our donkeys head home and we start the more serious part of the trip. Stay tuned to follow our progress in the beautiful and challenging peak! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Hike to Lake Churup

Hi from Huaraz! The team started its adventure in the Cordillera Blanca today with our classic hike up to Lake Churup at 4200m, just shy of Mt. Rainier's summit elevation. We had a beautiful day that prompted great views of the mountains. We had a leisurely afternoon, enjoyed a great team meal and arranged our duffels for tomorrow. We'll be writing next from our camp on our approach to Alpamayo basecamp tomorrow. Have a great night, Elías de Andres Martos and team
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Hello, Elias,

Thank you for the post. It looks like you all are headed into some spectacular country. Good luck to you, Tom and the rest of the team.

Best regards,

George Mast

Posted by: George Mast on 7/11/2017 at 4:07 pm

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