Entries By avery parrinello

Everyone arrived with all bags in tow. That is as much of a win as we can ask for on day one.

Today, we ventured out on a tour of Quito and La Mitad del Mundo (literally, The Middle of the World). It was a particularly sunny day, and we spent a little time enjoying the variety of flowers at El Museo de Intiñan, the indigenous equatorial museum.

From there, our tour heads to El Panecillo, a small hill just south of the old town. Panecillo basically translates to "little bread loaf" as it is just a small rise that affords a person a nice view of Quito. If you make an early morning trip here, you can usually see Cayambe, Antisana and/or Cotopaxi from atop the hill. In the afternoon, mounting clouds tend to obscure the view.

We, then, headed down into the old town to have a look around at some statues, historic buildings, and old churches. But perhaps more importantly, there was a quick stop for empanadas and ice cream. Much of culture can be absorbed through food and discovering the taste of fresh guanabana ice cream is certainly a cultural experience.

Today is just the beginning of what we all hope is a safe, successful climbing trip!

Dustin

RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Steve Gately and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Team spent a fun week on Mt. Rainier learning new mountaineering skills such as snow & ice anchors, crevasse rescue, ice climbing, fixed line travel, belaying and other technical skills needed to tackle the world's greatest peaks. The team spend their time training on the Cowlitz and Ingraham glaciers that surround Camp Muir and made it to Ingraham Flats at 11,200' to enjoy the incredible views of other peaks in the Cascade Range. 

Congratulations Team!

The Four Day Climb August 28 - 31 led by RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and Jack Delaney were unable to summit today.  Climbers reached 12,300, the top of Disappointment Cleaver, before deciding to turn back due to unfavorable route conditions and warm temperatures.  The teams were back to Camp Muir just after 7 am.  They took some time to repack before beginning their descent from Camp Muir back to Paradise. We expect the groups to be at Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

The Four Day Teams August 10 - 13 led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Avery Parrinello reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Clear skies and warm temps were enjoyed by the climbers.  Around 7:30 am the teams started their descent from the crater rim.  All teams will return to Camp Muir for a quick break before continuing the remaining 4.5 miles and 4,500' to Paradise.  They will conclude thier program with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Mike King and Avery Parrinello reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 4:30 am today. Mike reported 40 mph winds, clear skies, and a good climbing route. The team is in route to Camp Muir where they will take a well-deserved rest break, pack up and descend to Paradise. Then its back to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford, WA for burgers, cold drinks, and a little team celebration. 

After several days and lots of hands-on training, our Emmons seminar team successfully reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday. RMI Guide Avery Parrinello reported beautiful weather for the climb. The team enjoyed several days of great weather during their training days and ascent from camp to camp before their climb yesterday.

The team is currently on their descent from Camp Schurman back to Basecamp in Ashford where they will celebrate their successful summit. Congrats team!

Monday, June 20, 2022 - 7:37 pm PT

Final Dispatch! Final Jeopardy! 

The sound of Lisa the Basecamp Manager waking us up by saying “Planes are coming!” 

What is the greatest sound in the world?

Correct!

The team has never packed up camp so quickly. Too quickly it ended up because we played hurry up and wait for about three hours before our ticket to town arrived. It was worth the wait for hot showers, running water and flushing toilets. 

So to end our adventure together dear reader, here is a group photo of the team.

Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide Jak Delaney

Monday, June 20, 2022 - 8:39 a.m. PDT

So we did it, well almost. We’re right back where we began our journey but this time we are stuck here. I’m of course talking about Kahiltna International Airport. How did this happen? Let’s start at the beginning of our day.

BEEP BEEP BEEP. The 1:00 a.mm alarm goes off, the guides rub the sleep / snow out of their eyes. Oh wait, did you say snow? Yes, yes I did because the guides decided to roll the dice and open bivy instead of set up a tent for our “last” night out. Anyways not a big deal, snow brushes off and sleeping bags dry eventually.

The rest of the team quickly rallied and broke down camp and we headed out on the mushy trail. Slightly less mushy though thanks to a slight refreeze from the night. Thank goodness for that because we crossed a lot of snow bridges over crevasses. The walking was easy and the team was traveling well, until Heartbreak Hill, the final slope up to the airstrip. It’s just steep enough to be terrible and just shallow enough grade to last for what feels like forever.

Finally, finally we made it to the airstrip. Our time to get back to civilization was here! Except not, because we didn’t fly out. Now here’s how we got stuck. Clouds. Clouds everywhere. First clouds at the airstrip prevented them from flying, then clouds in Talkeetna, then more clouds at the airstrip, then clouds both places.

So as I write this we’ve missed our window for flying out today and await patiently for a break in the weather tomorrow. Let’s hope the next dispatch is a picture of us clinking glasses and celebrating in Talkeetna!

To be continued….

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed and the team

Sunday, June 18, 2022

Dun-dunana-dun-dun-dunnn (Imperial March music...please use your imagination)

We continued our migration down glacier from 14 Camp to the airstrip. Instead of a Flying V, we are in a Tromping I, roped together as always but this time it is very obvious as to why. The Kahiltna Glacier has melted down and broken up significantly since our last crossing. Weaving left and right, searching high and low for snow bridges that looked like they would support our weight. We finally make it the base of Ski Hill and decide to call it a day. The heat of the day has started to weaken the already soft snow and low and behold who do we see on the horizon??! It’s an RMI team headed uphill! Andy Bond and crew have just arrived at Camp 1. So we decide to spend the night with them to both let the snow and our bonds of friendship strengthen! Ends up there are mutual friends not only amongst the guides but also the teams! Let us rejoice! Tomorrow in the wee early hours of the morning we shall resume our march with refrozen snow and renewed strength in our quads.

We have the downhill mentality and the end is in sight (figuratively)!

Cheers,

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed and the team

Friday, June 17, 2022 10:41pm PT

Today we fled the thin air of 17 camp for the more tolerable altitude of a mere 14,000 feet. It might seem easy but descending was anything but that. The team was definitely still in a energy and hydration deficit from summit day. So on weak, sore and wobbly legs we made our way down the West Ridge, slithered our way down the fix lines and groaned, moaned and hobble down the final hill into camp. Everyone quickly scurried into their tents for some much deserved rest. A hearty meal of bacon mac & cheese was swallowed with gusto and then off to early bed. We still have thousands of feet and many miles before we make it to the airstrip.

Talkeetna here we come!

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team