Entries from Mt. McKinley
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday May 28, 2021 - 7:39pm PT
The winds and snow moved out for us today and we got to enjoy some sun and warmth in camp. We could still see winds moving quickly at times up above us on the west buttress, but it was nice to have pleasant conditions for a bit. We took the opportunity to build some truly monumental walls to protect against an expected wind event tomorrow, then refreshed and practiced our fixed line travel to prep for when the weather and conditions let us go higher.
Tomorrow is almost certainly a tent bound day, but the trend looks good for us going into next week. For now, we're happy to be acclimating and getting strong at 14,000', and to be within striking distance of our objective.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9500'
Friday, May 28, 2021 - 5:09pm PT
We had another stormy night here at the base of ski hill. We woke to clear skies and decided to try and move some food and fuel towards Kahiltna Pass and the turn up to 11,200’ camp. 30 minutes into the day the wind picked up and the loose snow started spinning. With some warm gloves and a few layers we leaned into the very consistent and very cold 15 mph wind and took it an hour at a time. Eventually we got to 9500’ which met the goal for the day. The ravens will dig up shallow caches so we dug a deep hole and buried our food and fuel. We beat feet down to camp and are currently enjoying some sun on the tents while that very consistent 15 mph wind spins snow everywhere.
We’ll see what we get tomorrow and a move to 11,200’ is planned.
RMI Guide Mike King & Team
Farmer Dave to Brother Tom….Remember You are Tough as Nails!!! Sing a little John Denver, that will always make things seem perfect!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/30/2021 at 8:56 am
Good luck to the whole team
Posted by: Cathy H on 5/29/2021 at 7:48 pm
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,300'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 10:37pm PT
An uncertain forecast greeted us this morning as we packed up to move to Camp 3. We ate breakfast in a windy snow storm, but in a stroke of luck the clouds lifted as we climbed away from camp. Our good fortune was tragically short lived. By the time we got to Windy Corner, the wind was gusting so hard our sleds were blowing sideways. Sharp crampons, good footwork, and strong legs got us through our obstacle. After picking up a few items from our cache, we pushed through two feet of fresh snow all the way to Camp 3, at 14,300 feet.
We built camp in a mild blizzard and quickly hopped into our sleeping bags. Today was a tough day. Days like these are when you really earn your chance to be on the mountain. We’re proud of how our team performed and got the job done.
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Go Heidi! Two feet of fresh. Brutal!
Posted by: Steve Christie on 5/28/2021 at 8:43 pm
Ooooh, I bet those sleeping bags felt good! Hope your weather improves for the next part of your climb!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/28/2021 at 7:30 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 9,600'
Thursday, May 27. 2021 - 8:48pm PT
We flew onto the glacier late yesterday and did little else but get camp set up and ate some dinner. By midnight there was a blizzard that moved in until 9 am. After rigging our sleds and packs the wind had died down to a dull roar and the sky turned blue. We packed up and headed out around 12:30 pm with the sun to help balance the cold breeze. The route down heartbreak hill and onto the Kahiltna glacier was straightforward but windy. The wind would not abate for the next 5 hours as we leaned into it and got to camp. Heavy packs and sleds have us happy to be eating dinner and getting ready to sleep.
We’ll see what this storm brings tomorrow, but for now our fully bellies and tired legs could care less.
Thanks for following along,
RMI Guide Mike King and Team
Hi Huw - I hope things are going well and you are enjoying this phase of the climb. Amazing to learn that birds will dig up shallow caches of food! Take care. Nigel.
Posted by: Nigel on 5/30/2021 at 6:20 am
Go well Rob and Co! Enjoy the climb and stay safe. Our very best wishes to you and all the 25th May team.
Posted by: Bill & Val Green on 5/29/2021 at 5:52 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 6:39pm PT
It sounded like rain drumming off the tent at a consistent staccato all night, into this morning. The problem was that there was frost in the tent and the temp was below zero. So was it rain? Nope. Graupel. Lots of graupel. As well as snow. And wind to move it. We had planned to rest anyways and that was perfect for today. We had a big bagel and smoked salmon brunch, then tucked back into tents to stay warm and dry.
The snow is anywhere from ankle to well over knee deep through camp. The wind have started to subside some this afternoon, but our world is still really white, with snow filtering down from the sky.
We'll do dinner and some warm tea and crawl into our sleeping bags to see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guide Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Hoping the storm passes and you have your days to move up and continue on safely. Keep the spirits up and enjoy every moment! Looking forward to the updates and we love you! - Katie & Sean
Posted by: Katie Baskin on 5/29/2021 at 8:07 am
Thank you for the opportunity to learn about graupel!! What crazy weather you have had. I am throwing all my weight behind good weather thoughts for you and your expeditions all.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/28/2021 at 3:05 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 2:13pm PT
Yesterday we did some training on rope travel techniques for up above 14k. The weather was clear and cold, with a chilly breeze.
Last night a true Denali storm came in with snow and wind, and we’ve been spending the morning digging out our tents, trying to stay warm, and hunkering down.
The storm is forecast to continue through Saturday, with 60 mph winds here at camp; needless to say, we’re not going up anytime soon. We’re also anticipating high avalanche hazard on the slopes above camp and the autobahn due to the new snow load and the wind transported slabs.
We’ll keep you posted on how this shakes out. For now, we are focusing our energy on defending our camp and staying safe.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Great job so far Nate! Good luck tackling the rest of the climb! Hope you’re having a great time.
Posted by: Steve Glassman on 6/2/2021 at 8:56 am
Hi Tom (Sweetness) Enjoy your down time and be safe honey!! Can’t wait to see you and hear all about your adventures ❤️❤️ Auntie Kel Kel
Posted by: Kelly Pozniak on 5/28/2021 at 1:38 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
The Denali Expedition May 25, 2021 led by RMI Guides Mike King, Alex Halliday and Abby Westling arrived in Anchorage on Tuesday, May 25th. The team made their way to Talkeenta with a stop for groceries and fresh food to fly with them onto the mountain. Once in Talkeetna they sorted and packed gear, met with the National Park Service and prepared to begin their adventure on Denali. The forecast for Wednesday evening looked to have a break in the weather that would allow them to fly to Kahiltna Base Camp. And sure enough, the team loaded up in the K2 Aviation Twin Otters and headed into the mountains around 5 pm local time.
Wishing all the team success and be safe, blue skies ahead. Rob stay warm
Posted by: Kleberg Tio on 5/28/2021 at 12:19 pm
Climb High Tom!! Climb Strong !! I’m with you in sprit brother!! All the Best Mike King and Team!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/28/2021 at 4:01 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
May 26, 2021 - 11:54 pm PT
We are happily reunited with all of our things at 14,000' Camp. We had a leisurely brunch before grabbing empty packs to drop back down and retrieve our cache at 13,500'. Laden back down with food, fuel, and snacks, we popped back up to camp in an easy hour. After a short siesta to discover what we'd hidden in that hole and go on a snacking binge, we threw our backs into building walls to protect our camp from what sounds like a bit of incoming weather. We're planning to take a rest day tomorrow, which lines up well with the weather and see what happens after that!
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team
Great work everyone!! Stay warm and stay safe! Jason and Doug, everyone here at work is rooting for you!
Posted by: Breanna Watkins on 5/28/2021 at 5:26 am
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 10:05 pm PT
Today we mastered the classic mountaineering skills of reading, napping and making breakfast last three hours. All part of a well rounded rest day.
It was sunny, but windy for most of the day so we spent our day hanging out in the tents and letting our bodies recover from the toil of the last few days.
Tomorrow we plan to move up to 14,000' Camp and get in position for the upper mountain.
We are watching updates Heidi tracking your progress one day at a time! Stay safe and sending love way up to your altitude!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/27/2021 at 7:52 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 12:36 am PT
It's been a wild day. Things were perfect this morning to move. We didn't rush out of camp, instead letting sun start to dry the frost from our tents before we packed them. The climb to 14,000' was pleasant all the way. There were some periods where a mild breeze cooled us, but in a way e were thankful for some respite from the heat of the sun. Once we got to 14,000' Camp, it got exciting. Just as we started to set up the first tents, we got hit with a blast of wind that was probably pushing 40 mph. Another was quick on its heels. And that was how it went - sudden strong blasts that weren't tied to hitting us from any one particular direction. It was a magnificent display of teamwork, as everybody came together to get tents up and then a wall built to provide some shelter from the gusts. We got a hot meal and are now deep in sleeping bags staying warm and drifting off to sleep. All in all, it was a great day and a great illustration of how Denali keeps you on your toes.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Sending positive thoughts to Cram from the CZ. You got this!
Posted by: Z on 5/29/2021 at 6:37 pm
Glad you got up there Marc! Wishing you calm and less freezing weather along the way! Felix has been learning a lot about Denali and always has questions about how big it is.
Love, Little Sis
Posted by: Sandi on 5/26/2021 at 2:56 pm
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Go, Cram, Go! Do it for the CZ. Wishing you good luck and safe travels.
Posted by: Z (Simsbury) on 5/30/2021 at 9:46 am
It seems that there are several teams @ 14, 000 camp 3. You started out I believe, as 2nd team. do you have to wait for team one to go to the peak first? Either way God speed.
Posted by: Carter Thoenes on 5/29/2021 at 12:24 pm
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