Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Team Ecuador is excited to announce that we reached the summit of Cayambe this morning at 7:30am. We woke up, or should I say got out of bed at 10:45pm to clear skies and warm temperatures. We began our ascent at exactly midnight and had great climbing conditions the entire way up. Having been on this mountain ten times I have never had a summit day this beautiful! Not a breath of wind, temperatures in the 30s and views that you rarely get to see.
The team climbed strong and performed really well, especially for reaching 19,000 feet six days after arriving in the country.
We were grateful to be finished early because as soon as we reached camp, the perfect weather that graced us up high took a 180 and began snowing, raining and sleeting on us. By the time we got to town, the downpour was so intense we couldn't hear each other at lunch because of the rain hitting the roof.
Now we are settled into the oldest hacienda in Ecuador and ready for a nap. We are relieved to have gotten the first big climb under our belts and look forward to Antisana in a couple days.
Stay tuned.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
Weather day here at Camp 1. The team got it's first experience with the Aconcagua wind last night. The wind builds above us in the Ameghino Col to the point it sounds like a large set of waves hitting shore. You then hear the wind racing down towards our camp, suddenly bracing in your tent, the poles flex and fabric gets bead blasted with little rocks and dust. An eerie calm follows only to hear the wind building up again. Now repeat for 16 hours.
Two down days in a row has the natives getting a little restless. Some will pace, some play cards and some will ask, "So this is mountaineering?"
Tomorrow we will get a late start to allow the wind to dissipate before our move to Camp 2. Despite the restless energy all team members are doing great and the guides couldn't be more pleased with how everyone is acclimating and working together. All our best to everyone back home!
"Estamos como queremos"
RMI Guide Mike King
Happy birthday, Dad! (Art)
Posted by: Alice on 1/9/2017 at 8:53 pm
Put up #4 A-sail and surf to Camp 2, boys…sounds spectacular! Be safe.
Posted by: Jimmy Mac on 1/9/2017 at 4:31 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Hello Everyone:
This is Casey Grom checking in on RMI's first 2017 Kilimanjaro Climb and Safari.
All is well here in Tanzania. Most of the team arrived late last night after some very long flights and thankfully so did all of our luggage.
It was a short and uneventful ride to our Lodge that is a little oasis tucked in between Arusha and Moshi and not so far from the base of Kilimanjaro.
The team had a quick but wonderful dinner and called it a night.
Check out our accommodations, the Arumeru Lodge!
Today we had a leisurely morning and had our first official meeting at 10am where we did a round of introductions and then discussed the program for the days ahead.
We spent the remainder of the day getting our gear packed up, exploring the grounds of our Lodge, which is incredibly peaceful and has monkeys and Dik Dik running around.
We wrapped up the evening with another delicious meal and plenty of friendly conversations. Everyone is in good spirits and excited about hitting the trail tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kilimanjaro Crew
Great adventure Jeff and Sean! Thank you Maureen for the updates, I will be sure to show Grandma Mac (mom) the photos when I get to the Beach Tomorrow. Truly enjoyable photos all the best Jeff and Sean! Cheers Todd
Posted by: Todd McCroskey on 1/13/2017 at 5:54 pm
Excited for you as we huddle in frigid NYC! Worried that we see no news yet of Tuesday the 10th. Hopefully you are sitting around camp at Machame Camp (9350). Hugs to you all!
Posted by: Sharon Hostler, Fran and Gerry Johnson on 1/10/2017 at 8:14 am
Logistics, logistics logistics! Today was an action packed day in the Andes as our crew assembled and packed gear in preparation for our trek tomorrow. We started the day in Mendoza, gathering our climbing permits and stuffing a van full of duffel bags. In the afternoon we headed for the hills, and unpacked and resorted our loads in the ski town of Penitentes, our launching point for the climb. It's been a long day, and the team is itching to hit the trail tomorrow. Looking forward to checking in from the Vacas Valley!
RMI Guides Mark Tucker & Pepper Dee
The team is wrapping up a successful rest day here at Aconcagua Camp 1, 16,400'. The guides know it was successful because while we know the team was restless and at times lacking for entertainment, no one came over and told us so. Light winds in camp after a gusty night, which left several people sleepless until the calm and warmth of the early afternoon.
We took the opportunity to send down trash and items carried up but deemed 'not necessary' for the climb with Mauricio, our Argentine guide.
Tonight we will dine on mashed potatoes and cheese burritos while we discuss the weather report and the expedition itinerary. Right now there is a weather window 1/11-13 with light summit winds when compared to days previous.
The team continues to stay strong with good appetites and getting sleep where they can! The evenings have provided spectacular heat lightning across the Vacas Valley as clouds build and are held at bay.
We might move up to Camp 2 tomorrow or burn a weather day depending on the wind. Regardless, thanks for following along and eat some fried chicken for us, preferably a Bojangles Cajun Fillet Chicken Biscuit with egg and cheese for those south of the Mason-Dixon Line.
RMI Guide Mike King
Happy Birthday Art. What a wonderful memory you will have of this special day. Enjoy your meal, even without the usual fare of cake and ice cream.
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 1/9/2017 at 5:07 am
Happy Birthday Artie from Anne and Bill, Barb and Garrett and Jeff and Debbie!
Posted by: Bill Fraumann on 1/8/2017 at 9:15 pm
Posted by: Mark Tucker, Pepper Dee
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Hola -
We are here in Mendoza, Argentina. All of our team and gear arrived with a few delays but that is to be expected.
It is absolutely pouring rain right now but we have no doubt it we be dry in the morning. We think it would be better to get this weather out of the way while we are dry and comfortable in our hotel.
We had a good team orientation meeting and an even better dinner here in the land of steak and Malbec red wine.
We will have an early rise tomorrow to take care of a bit more packing and once we have our Aconcagua climbing permits in hand we will head off toward the mountain, about a four hour drive.
All is well,
RMI Guides Mark Tucker & Pepper Dee
Good Luck and enjoy the climb Fish we miss you walking down the block with your pack #BlueTeam
Posted by: Mike Albrecht on 1/9/2017 at 6:25 pm
All your smiling faces are on Facebook. Have a safe climb and get a picture of El Pombero.
Posted by: Art Fish on 1/8/2017 at 5:46 pm
January 7, 2017
Hello friends and family!
This is Nick Hunt, reporting in from the high-altitude huts on Cayambe. I'm the co-leader of this trip, along with Adam Knoff, and I'm excited to be leading another trip down here in Ecuador with another great team!
We spent last night in the city of Otavalo, at a beautiful hacienda named La Casa Sol. This trip has been feeling a little more like a leisurely vacation so far, rather than a climbing expedition, and La Casa Sol didn't disappoint. Hot coffee and fresh eggs in the morning, beautiful rooms and a breathtaking view of the mountainous region around us. As nice as it was, though, the team has been getting antsy and everyone was more than ready for our move to the mountains today.
After a relaxing morning at the hacienda, we packed our bags and made one last stop in town: the Otavalo street market. This market is the largest of its kind in Ecuador and stretches on for miles with all sorts of crafts, textiles, spices, and souvenirs. It can be a bit of sensory overload at first, but we spent a few hours shopping for friends and families at home, then waved goodbye to the city and headed for the hills.
The road to Cayambe is a legit 4x4 road and after driving a few hours, the bus could go no further. We exited the bus, loaded our backpacks and finished the approach on foot. A little more than an hour of walking lead us up in to the clouds and to our home for the next few days at 15,000 feet above sea level. The clouds parted just enough for us to sneak a quick peak of our first serious objective before dinner.
Our plans for tonight are simple. We are going to spend the rest of the evening taking care of ourselves, getting a good meal in us, and preparing our packs for a full day of training on the glaciers tomorrow.
The level of excitement is growing as our first objective looms overhead. We'll check in tomorrow afternoon as we prep for our first big summit attempt of the trip. Stay tuned for updates!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Adam Knoff, and the rest of the ESS-Ecuador team
On The Map
Jimmy, How’s the air? Clean and thin I’ll bet! We know just how you feel, had about an inch of snow yesterday and temp dropped to mid 20’s. It shut everything down but back to normal now high 30’s lots of rain. How’s the knee holding up? Praying for safety and great climbs for you and your team. I guess you don’t use the term “break a leg” for mountain climbing so I’ll just say “ganbatte”! ( In Japanese it means, “do your best”) Love Craig and Jane
Posted by: Craig Lucas on 1/8/2017 at 6:18 pm
Hey Jimmy…..looks like an amazing adventure…continued prayer for safety and good weather…savor every moment…
Posted by: Terry on 1/8/2017 at 10:57 am
Posted by: Mike King, JM Gorum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
The team is back at Aconcagua Camp 1 after a successful carry day. Mike is currently fueling up for a nap with some Pringles and Tang. Most of the crew are a step ahead of him. We take our siestas quite seriously in the Southern Hemisphere.
We enjoyed perfect weather today on our carry, with just enough of a breeze to keep us cool, but not enough to even call it wind. On top of the weather's cooperation, we also found excellent route conditions. Firm snow made for quick travel, and gave us an opportunity to use some of the heavy, sharp objects that we've been lugging around.
On the way to Camp 2, climbers crest several ridges, each time gaining a slightly more complete picture of the Andes. I could pile on as many adjectives as I could think of, but I would still be unable to communicate the scale of the terrain. It is big out there.
Given the weather, we spent about an hour up at Camp 2. Taking in the views, securing our cache, and, you bet, napping. The trip down was quick, with sun softened snow and motivated climbers. Before they all went to sleep, the team sent their best to friends, family, and anyone else following along.
RMI Guides JM Gorum and Mike King
Happy to hear everything is going in your favour keep it up and be safe
Posted by: Mark and Helen walsh on 1/8/2017 at 3:20 pm
Rob, what brings you so high pilgrim ? Watch your top knot. Craig
Posted by: Craig Andersen on 1/8/2017 at 1:07 pm
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Good evening from Otavalo, Ecuador.Â
Today was a good day. It started as all the others have. Breakfast and coffee at the hotel, light rain on the streets and an eagerness to see something new. The exception was we left Quito.  It is easy to fall into the creature comforts of city life but we know that bigger and wilder places await outside of the country's capital.
Once loaded onto Victor's magic bus, we weaved our way through the maze of streets which eventually took us to the Pan-American Highway heading north. After two hours of driving we arrived at the foothills of a volcano called Fuya Fuya.  Even though it's altitude topped out at 14,300 feet, it still posed a worthy hike. Unfortunately the weather had it out for us. Just like yesterday, a soggy rain fell all around and the prospect of hiking for three hours up a slick mud trail didn't sound worth the benefits gained by going up 2,000 feet.Â
Much like yesterday though our team of determined climbers showed strong will so we stopped the van 5 km from the parking lot where our climb would have started and walked the road to our waiting van. This idea proved sound when five minutes after arriving the heavy skies opened up and soaked everything with a downpour no hiker would want to be in.Â
This is what Ecuador can do. So after Fuya Fuya we headed down into town for lunch and then moved 11 men and 20 duffel bags into our beautiful hacienda.
After a couple of hours settling in we gathered in the sun room, ordered some cervezas and listened as Nick taught everyone knots, hitches and bends.
The weather hasn't been perfect but we still seem to have fun times.
Tomorrow we visit the largest crafts market in Ecuador. Pray for sun.
Hasta Manana,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt, Adam Knoff and team
On The Map
We woke to the sounds of the park helicopter bringing in supplies and flying out garbage and human waste. Today was our move day to Aconcagua Camp 1, 16,400 feet. Since we had done a carry already the team was familiar with the terrain and difficult sections.
With warm tents and a light breeze the team is busy moving in and resting. We will sort gear for the carry to Camp 2 this evening and eat an early dinner since the shadow of the mountain hits our camp early.
Our view from camp includes the first part of tomorrow's route and it includes snow! You might be asking why the excitement? We will take solid snow over loose scree any day of the week. Everyone is doing well despite the new altitude. Love and well wishes back home!
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
KW
Bernie and I should have the Nordic trails all greased up for you upon your return from your luxury cruise. Better harden up.
JV
Posted by: Jan on 1/7/2017 at 5:27 am
Cayman,
Enjoy the Journey, Tunes, Reads and Company all the way to the top.
The Real Sven Affcock
Posted by: Sven Fleming on 1/6/2017 at 4:34 pm
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Sounds very exciting, not to mention awsome!!!! Congratulations!!!
Posted by: George on 1/11/2017 at 10:44 am
Congratulations, team! Quite an accomplishment!
Posted by: George Nimmo on 1/10/2017 at 10:25 am
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