Good morning! We're packing up as we speak, and are scheduled to fly back to Talkeetna in the next few hours. Unfortunately we can't report another summit from yesterday. We continued to have more snow through the early afternoon and our fears for avalanche danger were confirmed when the temps climbed up later in the day. We settled for just the approach to the lower
Pika, as we tested an incredibly reactive snowpack; while no climbing, that provided a super valuable safety learning opportunity for everyone.
That's it for now, our next post will be from civilization with some pics.
Best,
Rmi Guide
Elías deAndres Martos and Team
May 16th 2:06 am PT
Good morning from
Little Switzerland. We had an awesome day yesterday!!! We woke up to marginal weather and spent the morning mastering lead climbing techniques and tricks at the belay. As things stabilized, we broke again into groups and climbers took the lead and responsibility to guide us to Big Arapiles, both up and down; It was an incredible outing and Vanessa, Tyler, Kyle, John and Paul made us proud.
Our plan today may change, as we are receiving a ton of snow. We'll check back in later and let you know.
Standing by from the Pika Glacier,
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon, Andy Hildebrand, and team
May 15th 1:30 am PT
Good evening from
Pika Glacier camp. We are writing from the relative comfort of our posh tent, after a day of on and off fog, wind and snow. We're all in great spirits and hoping for the weather to clear to focus on our next objective. Enjoy a couple pictures of today's view from home. That's it for today!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
May 14, 2015, 1:45 am PT
Greetings from
Little Swiss camp!
We're "off rappel" for the day... and what a day! Full alpine experience. We climbed the route "Lost Marsupial" on The Throne, one of the MEGA CLASSICS in the area. We had A BLAST and everybody did a great job, but also had the opportunity to experience what alpine climbing is all about. Splitter granite on the crux pitches, snow over the upward traverses in between, and getting out of our comfort zones by climbing with a pack and mountaineering boots. Big dinner followed upon arrival to camp, following the eight full length rappels that took us off the wall, and allowed us to beat the storm that now we are under. We will keep you posted on our upcoming objectives. Best that's from the promised land of climbing that is Alaska.
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Sean Collon and team
May 12, 2015 10:15 pm PT
Team is ready for our first objective: tomorrow morning we will be switching to multi-pitch mode and conquer our first big route. We had a great day training on (and summiting) "
the Munchkin." We spent the day on its south ridge and east face rehearsing for steep snow and technical rock. Everyone is doing great and we all look forward to checking in with more accounts from the outstanding routes we are about to tackle.
Good evening!
RMI Guides Elías, Sean, Andy and the team.
May 11, 2015 11:00 pm PT
Greetings!
Warm temperatures, clear skies and pristine snow is what we enjoyed today. Our first full day in the
Pika entailed a thorough review of our different anchors, crevasse rescue systems and scenarios, and a tour of the glacier to check the approach to our upcoming routes. Keeping a close eye on the ravens, whom are after our kitchen and tents, we enjoyed a massive production of tortellini at dinner. This will fuel us for our first objective tomorrow, when we'll try our first summit while mastering transitions, protection and descents on rock and snow.
Best regards,
RMI Guides
Elias,
Andy, and
Sean
May 10, 2015, 9:28 pm PT
We woke today in Talkeetna to beautiful weather and were able to fly on to the
Pika Glacier before noon. We spent the day building the camp that we'll be calling home for the next week, and also had time for some avalanche education and training. For now, we are in and out of light clouds and snow, but things are relatively calm, temperatures are mild and all of us are excited to be in Little Switzerland after a weather day in Talkeetna. Fingers crossed for blue skies in the coming days!
RMI Guides Sean Collon, Elias de Andres Martos and Andy Hildebrand
Greetings from Talkeetna, Alaska!
We are wrapping up our first day of the
Alpine Skills Seminar. Everybody arrived on schedule to Anchorage yesterday, and a rainy drive took us to the gateway of the Alaska Range. As planned, we spent the morning getting ready with the pertinent logistics prior to loading the bush plane equipped with skies to take us to the glacier. As our appetite climbed for what we hoped to be the last served meal of the week, the thick clouds brought the rain (snow in the range) that would keep us grounded.
We took advantage of the delay, and practiced some skills at the K2 Hangar. We got familiar with our tents, reviewed knots and hitches and mastered crevasse self extrication to make the most of a wet afternoon. Our hopes are to fly tomorrow morning straight onto the Pika Glacier. We´ll keep you posted!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Way to go V!!!
Enjoy every minute, be safe and I will see you soon! 80 degrees is waiting for you :)
Love you,
Brett
Posted by: Brett on 5/16/2015 at 3:11 pm
Grandma and Grandpa say hi to Taylor and the group. Looks like fun, next time we would love to go with you. Stay safe.
Posted by: Stan & Ruth Briggs on 5/16/2015 at 2:54 pm
View All Comments