June 6, 2018
Wednesday, June 7, 2018 - 10:59 am PT
Nothing is easy about Denali. After two hard days of climbing and finally reaching the summit yesterday, we are currently hunkered down in our tents, avoiding the wind and spindrift that the mountain is throwing at us this morning. It is currently too cold and windy to safely pack up and climb down the exposed West Buttress. So we’re on standby, chilling out in our tents waiting for the wind to abate. Hopefully we’ll be able to bump camp down to lower altitude and warmer temps soon.
Tuesday, June 6, 2018 - 10:50 pm PT
Despite a less than ideal weather forecast, we awoke to clear skies and no winds. We fired up the stoves and woke our team. Muscles were weary after climbing for seven hours yesterday, but we couldn’t pass up this opportunity.
The weather stayed good all day and the route was in great shape. It was a hard day of climbing but we got to stand on the top of North America! We were ten hours round trip (high camp-summit-high camp). And now that we’ve eaten dinner and crawled in our tents, the temperature has plummeted, winds have increased, and snow is falling. Timing couldn’t have been better.
We will start our descent tomorrow…
On The Map
So proud of all of you! Please keep yourselves warm. Miss you guys, and can’t wait till you’re in Talkeetna. Shower Beer is everything. You’ll see.
Posted by: David Head on 6/7/2018 at 8:44 pm
Wow!!! How incredible!! Alex and Tom we are all super excited for your summit!! Must be incredible to see from the top!! Enjoy every moment and we miss you. Nicole
Posted by: nicole celona-jacobs on 6/7/2018 at 1:40 pm
June 5, 2018
Monday, June 4, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT
We woke to mostly clear skies, with some visible wind above us. With very cold temps we waited a little to let it warm up and to see if the winds abated. Temps did warm but the winds remain…not atrociously strong, but something to keep an eye on.
Leaving camp at 10:00, along with about 100 of our best climbing buddies, we headed up the “Autobahn” towards Denali Pass. The temps were cold and winds made it chillier. By the time we reached Denali Pass and turned the corner, the winds were in our face, colder and stronger than before. We pressed on, in the hopes that the winds would decrease. But as we gained more altitude, the winds kept increasing and getting colder; it was challenging to stay warm—especially our hands, toes, and fingers. So we turned around at the top of Zebra Rocks (~18,800’) and headed back to High Camp. We climbed for seven hours and got back to our tents cold and tired. We’ll check the weather forecast to see what our next move will be. Hopefully we will get another chance to go for the top.
On The Map
Champion effort! May you be well rested for another summit run and may she,the Mountain,help make it so. Many Blessings, Hujo and Katie.
Posted by: HUGH DE PENTHENY O KELLY on 6/6/2018 at 9:08 am
You fellas have fun up there. Maybe have Robby eat some more torts and ride him to the top like a rocket ship…. I don’t know, maybe??? Just think about the 8 cases of beer buried at base camp!
Posted by: Todd Hayes on 6/5/2018 at 8:28 pm
June 3, 2018
Sunday, June 3, 2018 - 2:00 PM PT
We woke this morning and looked up at the upper mountain to see a little bit of wind coming off of Denali Pass; something to keep an eye on, but nothing too concerning. Our stoves were stubborn to heat up at this altitude and with these cold temps, but soon they were firing away, working hard to melt our cook pots full of solid ice (which, just last night, were water).The winds of early morning transformed into a menacing lenticular cloud cap that refused to dissipate. We hung around on “stand by” for a few hours, hoping conditions would improve. That never happened and we decided that we would write this one off as a rest day. We’re hoping that tomorrow morning will present us with better climbing weather for a summit bid. Stay tuned.
On The Map
I’ve been following your incredible journey!
I’m hoping the weather cleared for your summit bid!
Can’t wait to hear/see (did you bring a camera? :) all about it once you’re home!
Enjoy the last few days with Mother Nature and your climbing pals!
Posted by: SHANNON REILLY on 6/5/2018 at 8:19 pm
Hey Mike, Roby, and Alan,
Please let your team member, Joseph know that his wife and kids wish him a Happy Birthday.
Wishing good luck, Tünde, Angela, és Hanna.
Posted by: Tünde Veis on 6/4/2018 at 4:08 pm
June 2, 2018
Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 8:30 pm PT
We woke to perfect weather so we fired up the stoves, had a hot breakfast and packed up camp. We were climbing before 9am, headed up toward the headwall en route to 17k camp. The weather was perfect and so were the views. We made it to camp in six hours. And then it took us another couple of hours to build camp, and another few on top of that for us to get dinner made (our stoves are rather anemic at this altitude).
If all goes well, we’ll try for the top tomorrow. We’ll see what the weather throws at us in the morning, but the forecast remains good through mid week.
On The Map
Heidi and I love you and miss you, Dave!
Hope the sun is shining and you are keeping as warm as you can. We know how much you love the snowy mountains.
Me and Heidi
Posted by: Michelle & Heidi on 6/3/2018 at 1:34 pm
Cheering you on from Peru, Tom, and Team Denali! Looking forward to the summit photos. Then, you ride your sleds back to the bottom, right? :) xox Patty
Posted by: Patty on 6/3/2018 at 11:43 am
Friday, June 1, 2018 - 5:01 PM PT
A good weather window appears to be forming right now, and lasting through the weekend. Our plan is to take advantage of the good weather and move camp to 17,000’ tomorrow and, hopefully, summit the following day. We’ll keep you posted with our progress.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
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Another great update - whew! Everyone is safe and weather is good!
We wish you all a safe summit and descent on Monday with a good climb to the 17,000’ camp tomorrow. Fingers remained crossed for continued clear weather to achieve all this in the next 48 hours!
Cheers from Larkspur, CA!
Posted by: Susan on 6/2/2018 at 3:45 pm
All rooting for a beautiful summit!
Lots of love from the hood in brooklyn.
Lulu Noto Garrick Elisa
Tommy and Alex big pasta monk dinner waiting in celebration and of course
Our cos wine to wash it down.
Posted by: Lulu and Noto on 6/2/2018 at 1:50 pm
May 31, 2018
Thursday, May 31, 2018 - 1:11 PM PT
We woke early this morning and fired up the stoves, intent on moving to high camp today. But as the morning progressed, lenticular clouds formed over the Alaska Range, clouds increased, and we could see winds coming off of the West Buttress above us . With a good weather forecast into next week, we decided that we’d sit this one out and try again tomorrow. We’re sitting in great shape and lined up for the upcoming goo weather window. And spending another night at 14,000’ Camp will make our team stronger for our bid up high.
Hopefully our next dispatch will come from High Camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Dave and Shane…So close!!!!!! I know you guys will Summit.!!! I hope everyone is well. We are preying for good weather and an easy climb back down!!! It looks beautiful. Thanks for the updates. Those of us at home love hearing the news. Travel safe. Love ya bunches. Mom and Ken
Posted by: Dean Peterson on 6/2/2018 at 9:57 am
You guys got this! Stay safe! We can’t wait to hear about your summit! We know you’re going to make it! We love you Alex and Tom!
Posted by: Casey & Nick on 6/2/2018 at 7:52 am
May 30, 2018
Wednesday, May 30, 2018 - 1:50 pm PT
Our team is taking another planned rest day today, the first multiple rest day stint of our trip. The weather at 14,200’ right now is chilly with very light snow. This unsettled weather is forecasted to last into tomorrow before clearer weather moves in through the weekend. We are hopeful the weather will allow us to move to high camp tomorrow so that we can take advantage of a potentially good weather window (Fri/Sat/Sun) for a summit attempt.
We’re all doing well, and optimistic that our chance to tag the top is right around the corner. Until then, we’ll be resting and getting stronger.
On The Map
Dave and Shane….. you guys are so close now. Great progress and great weather is seems.
May the Sun shine for you each day and the winds blow gentle.
Posted by: George Head on 5/31/2018 at 11:59 am
Dave and Shane…wow…almost there. I can’t believe you are almost at the summit. We can’t wait to hear ALL about this adventure. We hope you are all feeling well. Miss you to pieces. Have a great day!! Love, Mom and Ken
Posted by: Dean and Ken on 5/31/2018 at 7:01 am
May 29, 2018
Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:01 PM PT
Today is a rest day for our team after good long day yesterday establishing a cache at 17,200 ft. We woke early yesterday to a clear but bitterly cold morning (~ -20F), ate breakfast, packed our packs and launched. We were the first team to leave camp and the only team to continue all the way to High Camp (17,200’) to establish our cache. The weather and climbing conditions were excellent, and the views were unmatched.
Now we’re resting, acclimating, and getting stronger in preparation for our summit bid. The weather forecast looks promising and we will likely move to High Camp in the next day or two. We will keep you posted with the latest.
On The Map
OMG you are really getting up there. Luckily beautiful weather! Stay safe, and stay warm…..
Posted by: Marilyn Riede on 5/30/2018 at 9:42 am
What amazing luck with the weather and views! Thank you for this great update and we are happy to hear everyone is doing well! Fingers are crossed for continued great weather and a safe summit climb! Tom M, Myrna and Sheila are enjoying the updates! Be safe and we are sending big hugs!
Posted by: Susan on 5/30/2018 at 7:21 am
May 28, 2018
Monday, May 28th - 9:48 pm PST
Just a quick update: We had beautiful weather today and we took advantage of it by carrying up to 17,200’, our future high camp, to establish a cache. It was a long day with beautiful climbing. I’ll write more tomorrow as there is still a ton to do at camp and the sun is already behind the ridge.
On The Map
Keep on keeping on Tom! Ralph and I were chatting about your climb yesterday while we wandered around S.F. with a few other souls around for the weekend. Sending positive vibes and hopefully high pressure systems bringing stable weather for your trip to the summit and back down to the thick air afterwards. And remember, don’t get stuck with the Turkey tetrazini…blech.
Posted by: Michele on 5/29/2018 at 4:55 pm
Keep it up Alexander and team!!! Proud of you and miss you!
Posted by: Becca R on 5/29/2018 at 4:54 pm
May 27, 2018
Last night was chilly once again, but today the sun is out in full and has warmed us up. It’s a beautiful day on Denali today, with barely a breath of wind at 14,200’ (there is some visible wind up higher on the West Buttress), and partly cloudy skies.
We’re taking a “rest” day today, although it will be somewhat active. After a leisurely breakfast that rolled into brunch, we headed out to the Edge of the World, a dramatic rock outcrop at the far eastern edge of Genet Basin that looks down to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, some 5,000’ below.
Next we will be reviewing and practicing fixed rope travel in preparation for moving above our camp. And finally, before dinner, we will work on building snow walls to protect our tents and our kitchen from strong winds. All in all, a good day of active rest.
Tomorrow, weather permitting, we plan to establish a cache high on the West Buttress in order to have enough supplies available to us for our move to high camp. We’ll keep you posted.
Way to go Riemer!! Lots of good thoughts and vibes from us all :) Good luck from the boys and we’ll see you soon!
Posted by: Layla on 5/28/2018 at 3:02 pm
Hi Alex and Tom, Hope you are well and not too cold. All that snow makes me go brrr. Lots of rain here. And more to come(the remains of a tropical storm due from Wednesday on). Not much going on. Love you and miss you
Posted by: Pauline Reiher on 5/28/2018 at 2:12 pm