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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make Summit Attempt, Return to High Camp

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

The team tried to summit today, and as usual we performed like a well oiled machine. Unfortunately we weren’t able to make it to the top due to adverse and unexpected obstacles that again, the team handled exquisitely. We put in a track up to Denali pass and hope to make it up again in the coming days.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait for Weather Window

Thursday, June 17, 2021 1:33 pm PT

This morning we woke up to a foot of new snow and the winds have been blowing 30 mph all day, which is slightly unpleasant but what we expected. There is a lot of strategy in expedition climbing, and this plan is part of that. We got up to 17,000' camp yesterday knowing it would not be possible today, and now we are in position to take advantage of tomorrow’s supposed high pressure.

Send good thoughts our way for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT, Alan, Kirra and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Nicholas,

I’m reaching out because I feel that I’m not making a big enough impact in my current role and would like to discuss a potential career change.

Our mutual friend, Giannis, showed me your LinkedIn (very impressed) and suggested I reach out. Do you have 30 min over the next week to discuss?

Thanks,

Jrue

Posted by: Jrue Holiday on 6/18/2021 at 10:11 pm

Vano, when you shotgun a beer at the summit, have you thought about the pressure change and how that beer may just buss everywhere? Please get back to me

-Heater

Posted by: Heater on 6/18/2021 at 5:10 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Reach 17,000ft Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

Wednesday, June 16, 2021 - 8:29 pm PT

We made it to High Camp, 17,200' on Denali. It’s a little blustery but other than that all is good here. Keeping our fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

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Matt - Hopefully your next push will be the summit. Good luck and keep climbing. Best of weather and conditions so you can look down on Ross, Jason and Eli further down the glacier. Congratulations in advance! Gerard

Posted by: Gerard Crum on 6/17/2021 at 8:39 am


Denali Expedition: Rest Day for JT Schmitt & Team

Tuesday, June 15, 2021 - 4:50 pm PT

We are enjoying a nice sunny rest day at 14,000’ camp today after our carry to 17,000’ yesterday. We are waiting to see what the weather has in store before we make our next move. All is well here at camp!

RMI Guides JT, Kiira, Alan and the RMI team

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Go team go! Hoping for great weather and easy travels!

Posted by: Ellen on 6/16/2021 at 10:12 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Carry Gear to 17,000ft Camp

Monday, June 14, 2021 - 9:31 pm PT

Today we carried supplies and personal gear up to 17,000' Camp. The team performed amazingly for their first time on fixed lines and dealing with thousands of feet of exposure and running belays.

We floated past other teams, seemingly effortlessly as they cached lower on the West Buttress, but we were moving so efficiently and the day was perfectly clear and windless, so we decided to cache all the way at 17,000' Camp.

It’s now 8 o’clock in the evening and we are about to enjoy some dinner and a much deserved night of rest.

All the best from the team at 14,000' Camp.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

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Thinking of everyone as you prepare to summit! Stay safe and strong ! Enjoy the adventure !

Posted by: Ann VanO on 6/16/2021 at 8:44 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Rest Day

Sunday, June 13, 2021 - 3:34 pm PT

Today we enjoyed a full rest day at Denali 14K Camp. Everyone is feeling nice and dried out and rested. The weather is gorgeous and is supposedly going to be nice for us to carry above the fixed lines tomorrow!

Stay tuned,

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team

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We are sending positive thoughts to everyone for a successful climb to the summit!  Stay safe, strong and positive!

Posted by: Barb n John The Parents on 6/15/2021 at 8:52 pm

Great progress! The scene looks simply amazing. Be honest, how much “up your gas” have you taken so far? :) Good luck and be safe.
-Powder Hound

Posted by: Greg on 6/15/2021 at 2:43 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Back Carry and Settle into 14K Camp

Saturday, June 12. 2021 - 7:51 pm PT

Today we back carried to our cache at 13,500, which was a great way to get a little exercise. We now have all of our supplies up with us at 14 camp and are ready for a full rest day tomorrow!

The weather is beautiful, hot and sunny during the day, albeit quite cold at night. We truly are in the land of extremes. Our camp looks dialed and clean, our team is working as a well-oiled machine.

All the best from 14 camp and hope everyone is well!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team

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So enjoying watching your trek from afar.  Would take a bit of that coolness - quite hot and humid here in MO.

Posted by: Melody Reardon on 6/13/2021 at 9:01 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Move Up to 14K Camp

Friday, June 11, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT

Today we traded the damp snowy conditions of 11K Camp for the cold dry conditions of 14K Camp and it sure feels good! The team had a long heavy day moving from 11K but everyone performed as we are beginning to expect, strongly.

We had a great dinner of chicken and rice, and are now getting warm in our sleeping bags, feeling accomplished and happy to be up at Denali's 14K Camp.

Tomorrow we plan to back carry and improve camp.

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jack - Glad you and Nick and the crew are safe and still feeling strong. So sad to hear of those that had to be helicoptered out.  Really excited every time you ascend to the next camp. Look forward to watching your progress further north!

Posted by: Barb n John The Parents on 6/12/2021 at 6:31 pm

Nick, Jack and team - Keep strong! Enjoy the journey! Looks amazing! Thinking of you. - mom and dad.

Posted by: Nick's parents on 6/12/2021 at 11:06 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Move Gear above Camp

Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 4:56 pm PT

Today was not a super nice day, but it was nice enough! We cached additional food and supplies at 13,500 and felt great. This puts us in position to move to 14,000' Camp when we are ready and weather allows. It looks like the weather should be decent tomorrow before the next round of storms come in. Stay tuned to follow our progress tomorrow!!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and team

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Nick, you’ve always been an inspiration and role model, which is why I want to tell you that I will be taking my talents to Alabama. Roll Tide.

Posted by: Kool-Aid Mckinstry on 6/12/2021 at 4:02 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait Out the Weather at 11,000ft Camp

Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 9:40 pm PT

We woke up hoping to cache below 14,000 Camp, the mountain had other plans so we spent the day eating, reading, relaxing, and building a snow fort. Hopefully tomorrow the weather complies and we can move supplies up the mountain.

RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci

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