We're all checked in at the Hotel Colonial in Puebla. If you're counting, that's less than 10 hours after standing on the summit of Ixta!
We got up this morning at 2:30AM under clear skies and no moon. The view of the city lights from Amecameca to Mexico City was really cool. The guys made quick work of getting ready and we started just after 3:30. The talus field leading up to the Ayaloco glacier was our first challenge but my guiding partner Alejandro stepped up with local knowledge on the ever-shifting route. He plotted the course to the toe of the glacier without issue. After a quick transition to crampons we dispatched with the climb up the Ayaloco. Once we crested the ridge the wind whipped up and it was parka time for most of us. Our only hold up of the day came after we had put the crampons back in the pack to walk the 'Arista del Sol'. We hit an unexpected section of ice a few hundred feet below the summit plateau and had to transition back to the spikes. Other than that it was smooth sailing for us right to the summit. The wind calmed to a light breeze for our pictures up top and we found a sheltered spot for a nice long break just below the summit.
The way down to high camp was completed in three stretches and to my surprise there was very little grumbling as we down climbed the talus. Kudos boys. Having made such good time on the climb we were able to enjoy some extra breaks on the walk down from high camp. The icing on the cake was when we were met by our super-driver, Rogelio, with tortas, chips, sodas and cervesas back at the trail head.
He tortas were good but they're just the tip of the iceberg for we are in Puebla, home of many delicious foods. The team is waiting for me, it's dinner time!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
6:21 a.m. from the summit of Ixtaccihuatl:
Hey this is Seth calling from the top of Ixta. I am up here with everybody. There is very little wind and it was a smooth climb. The team is taking a bunch of photos and enjoying the views. You can see all of the volcanoes today: Nevado de Toluca, Pico de Orizaba, La Malinche, Sierra Negra…and Popo is also out. It is a beautiful cloudless day with no wind. [lots of background cheering from the team] We will check in again from high camp later today.
Congratulations Team!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Hello from high camp on Ixta! Everyone did great today, the tents are up and I'm about to start cooking dinner.
This morning we got up at 6:30 and had bacon and eggs for breakfast. After packing our gear we got a ride from our driver to La Joya, which is where the trail starts. It took us five hours to reach high camp with the big packs but we have plenty of time to relax before we go to the summit.
Hopefully the next time I check in we'll be standing on top of Ixta!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
We're on Ixta! Well we're actually at the Altzimoni Hut but we did get up to 14,600' on Ixta today. That means we set new altitude records for the whole team. That's always cool.
The day started with an 8 am pick up from La Malinche. Our fantastic driver, Rogelio, took us to the best breakfast in Mexico at the Hotel Mission Tlaxcala. Very nice.
Then we hit the market in the town of Amecameca for some last minute food and water before driving to the Altzimoni Hut. After dropping our gear we set out for a hike. We took the same route that we will follow tomorrow and I dropped some water at our high point. We'll pick that up on the way through on our way to high camp and I'll check in again from there.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
The first full day of the trip has been a blast. We started off with breakfast at the hotel in Mexico City. While we were eating the military honor guard raised the national flag in front of the presidential palace giving us quite the show.
After that we peeled out of town and headed for the mountains. On our way out we stopped to get some water and one of the guys found a soccer ball that he just had to have. So now we have a team soccer ball.
The drive was real smooth and we pulled into the cabanas at La Malinche before noon.
Once we moved in we set off for a hike. We ended up getting to about 13,700 feet on La Malinche and set a new altitude record for Dave!
We have just returned from the hike and we're all starving. Dinner is in 8 minutes so I've got to go!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Buenos noches from Mexico City. Everyone has arrived without too much incident and we just spent the evening getting to know each other. Our hotel is located right on the zocalo (historic center) in the city so there is tons of activity all around. We had a great dinner overlooking the square and now we're getting ready for a fairly early start tomorrow. Our next stop is La Malinche where we begin our acclimatization in earnest.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Hey everyone, this is JJ Justman with the Mexico Adventure team. We are happy to report that we are back at basecamp here on Orizaba. The mountain today, Orizaba, said no. It's always a little bit unfortunate. It's always a bummer when you don't summit. But we made it to within about 1,500 feet of the summit. Actually made it a good way on the glacier but we had rock hard, bulletproof ice. It's something I've never seen here before and pretty rare on all the mountains I've been on. We could hardly even penetrate our crampons. It was that firm. So my gut was telling me the obvious. Orizaba said no to reaching the top. It's something I never really share with my team before a summit climb, but I did have to let them know that while we were on Ixta, here on Orizaba, that same day unfortunately, a climber who was non-guided, slipped and fell. And she did not make it. So when you hear things like that, and you have the conditions that we had, it's a pretty easy decision to make. Even though it's disappointing not reaching the top, we are back down safe and sound and you know what, we can come back when Orizaba is in better shape, better conditions and give her another shot, but the team is real happy. We made the summit of Ixta, and that definitely still has us smiling and we're definitely glad to be down here. So we're gonna pack up camp and head back down to Dr. Reyes' and we'll have a good meal down there and definitely have a celebration. So thanks for tuning in. Everyone here says hello and we will hopefully see you on the mountain. Bye.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Hello RMI Blog,
This is JJ Justman. We are done resting and relaxing in the town of Puebla, and are now at our camp on Orizaba at 14,000’. A nice little spot everyone is guiding out our tents making sure they do not blow away in the wind. We do have a little bit of a breeze, but the weather is beautiful. They are calling for a bit of a cold front tonight so it might be chilly, but we are planning on waking up early and going for the summit of Orizaba tomorrow morning, most likely at 2 o’clock in the morning we will be walking on out.
The team is doing great, we are well rested, well fed, and we are looking forward to see what Orizaba has to offer. Stay tuned we will give you a call tomorrow to let you know how everyone is doing.
Everyone on the team says, “Hello!”
RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team
Its not just about climbing mountains. Mountain adventures, especially international adventures, provide an opportunity to experience the whole enchilada. Seeing that we are in Mexico...no pun intended. And speaking of enchiladas and Mexico...today the team spent the day enjoying the local culture of Puebla.
Everyone made the summit of Ixta yesterday. And everyone deserved a great day of rest, which mainly included enjoying the authentic cuisine of Puebla. I always said, "you've never eaten Mexican food, until you've eaten in Puebla".
For breakfast we enjoyed scrambled eggs covered in mole sauce. For lunch we devoured tacos pastor. And now, we are preparing for dinner at one of Puebla's famous restaurants, where we will sample all of the mole sauces that have made this region famous.
No, it's not all about climbing. However, tomorrow the team is looking forward to our next mountaineering objective... Pico de Orizaba.
Stay tuned...
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Hello RMI blog. This is JJ Justman. I am extremely happy to report that the entire team, 100%, got up Ixta this morning! We actually had an early day. We were on the summit early enough to watch the sunrise. We had just a gorgeous day to climb. Everyone's doing very, very well. Just was one heck of a team to climb. Lot of fun and I can't say enough great things about this group. So we are back at camp, we're going to get some hot drinks and then we're going to pack up camp. And we'll be heading to Puebla this evening. So we're certainly tired, we need a little hydration, a little food, but everyone is doing great. And I would like to pass the phone over to one of our team members they'd like to say something to those of you who are following our blog. Hey guys. This is TA Loeffler calling. Had an amazing morning climbing Ixta this morning with JJ and company. This climb, when you put together the two days of climbing with big loads to high camp and then getting up to the summit. Boy did we see a gorgeous sunrise! Popo in front, sending off a plume. And it's pretty surreal to get to the top of the 7th highest peak in North America. And I'm just really proud of everyone on the team. Hello to everyone out there in RMI land and it's great to share a summit with RMI once again.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
HI TA,
Congratulations on your summit!it is really cool that you made it to the top.Did you have a good time on the mountain? Looking forward to having you back for a visit again. Hooray for you from the grade fours at Bishop Abraham Elementary.
Heather and the grade four class
Posted by: Heather Courage on 10/25/2012 at 4:31 am
Looks like a great time was had by all….awesome pics - especially the smiles on the faces post the climb!
Posted by: Caskie on 1/17/2013 at 10:12 am
View All Comments