Denali Expedition: Jones and Team Return to Talkeetna

The May 24th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, and Blake Votilla flew off the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday and return to Talkeetna. According to Tyler, the team was planning to celebrate their climb at Talkeetna's Roadhouse. After 18 days of living in tents the team is happy to be back in the land of burgers, beer, showers, and mattresses. Congratulations climbers!

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Welcome back, Bob. I hope you getting busy planning your next beautiful adventure on this wild planet. Cheers to you and the team!

Posted by: Emily Jenson on 6/14/2016 at 1:58 pm

Congratulations to all of you.. Very Cool and I am sure extremely GRATIFYING !!!

Posted by: Mary Anne Kyburz-Ladue on 6/13/2016 at 9:02 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to Base Camp

June 11, 2016 - 11:57 pm PT Hi all, we are at Base Camp. Just when you think it's over it's not till the fat lady sings. We packed our camp for what what we had hoped was the last time early this morning. The crew as always on this trip was ready to roll early and we arrived at base camp at 8:30 this morning with lite snow and cloudy skies. With all our will we wished the fog and snow away. Our wish was only met after the planes has powered down for the day. A long day of anticipation of burgers, beer, and more was lost so we enjoyed each others company and reflected on our journey in the Alaska range. With the weather on the lower glacier clearing a bit this evening we're hopeful to see all the colors of the outer world we departed from 16 days ago. Hoping to smell the summer in the low lands and eat like kings tomorrow. Blow some good weather vibes our way! Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones & the team

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Congratulations Blake.  Nice.  Very Nice!

Posted by: Adelle on 6/13/2016 at 6:19 am

What a long, strange trip it’s been . . .

Posted by: Dad on 6/12/2016 at 1:09 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Back to Thick Air and Bacon

June 10, 2016 - 10:59 pm PT Waking up at 17K camp this morning was tough after yesterday's big day. We were happy though to be on the move again, back down the mountain to thicker air. Walking down the West Buttress was beautiful, and this time we were actually able to enjoy the knife ridge views. Taking in views is much easier walking down when you're only using half the physical effort as the way up. The mountain treated us with pleasant weather all the way to 11K Camp until we hit the storm layer, walked through some high winds and blowing snow and eventually below the storm to 7,800 camp. Now we're enjoying a cheese, bacon and bagel fry up celebration and looking forward to the final leg of our journey back to basecamp tomorrow! See you all soon and thanks for the support! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Still trying to keep a little vertical distance from reality.

Posted by: Dad on 6/12/2016 at 5:41 am

Wow descending almost 10,000 feet and through a snow storm layer—thats a long day! I hope you’re all holding up well on this last leg down to base camp!

Ongun I can’t wait to hear from you! sending you my hugs!
xoxo
Karina

Posted by: karina on 6/11/2016 at 9:29 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to High Camp after Summit Bid

June 9, 2016 - 10:38 pm PT Hello!!! We are all safe and sound back at our high camp after a long summit push. This morning we got out of the tents at the suns first rays to clear but windy weather. We were a bit nervous as the wind extended into the late morning but once we were tied in to the ropes around 10:30 the sun started to grace the slopes of Denali Pass and the wind let up a bit. We climbed smoothly up to the pass.Today was a chilly one, filled with managing our feet, hands, and faces against the pesky cold. Our bodies were spent as we finished Pig Hill and to our surprise the summit ridge was rather warm and welcoming. We took photos, embraced and congratulated each other on a strong effort. The crew made great time on the way down and we are grubbing on soup and ramen, looking forward to descending to more oxygen rich air. Time for a bit of rest for this tuckered out crew! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Congrats team
Very exciting and very thankful to hear you are heading down safe. Please be careful on your way down and cannot wait to hear the stories upon Dan and Eric’s return.
Thanks to the RMI guides for keeping our loved ones safe.
Karen

Posted by: karen Stewart on 6/11/2016 at 6:26 am

Congrats all! Now hurry down Mr. President Oxygen because I’m trying to plan your next expedition :-)

Posted by: First Lady Oxygen on 6/10/2016 at 8:56 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Reach the Summit of North America’s Highest Peak!

June 9, 2016 - 6:16 pm PT Hi Everybody - It's Tyler Jones and the RMI 4 Team. We are standing on the summit of Mt. McKinley, well now Denali. We are all doing well and we will give another shout when we get back to Camp. Thanks for your support and we will talk to you all soon. Ciao - RMI Guide Tyler Jones


RMI Guide Tyler Jones check in from the summit of Denali.

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Congratulations to Blake and everyone! Lei

Posted by: Lei on 6/10/2016 at 8:33 am

Congratulations team!!! I’m so happy and proud of you guys and hope you have an amazing feeling of accomplishment! Your strength, perseverance, patience and humility when needed carried you to the top! I’m celebrating your achievement here in NYC and hope you have a safe return down!

Ongun I can’t wait to see you and give such a big hug!!!! Mwah!

Posted by: Karina on 6/10/2016 at 6:07 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Rest at High Camp

June 8, 2016 - 2:25 p.m. PDT Hi from High Camp on Denali! We were in a holding pattern this morning as we had high winds and very cold temperatures. Now the day has warmed up and winds have died a bit, but we are sitting in a very thick cloud. The tents are warm as always with the sun's intense radiation shining through. So we sit and wait, snoozing, mixed with conversation, laughter and anticipation. When our window arrives we are in crouching tiger position, ready to launch on our summit push. RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

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Schlax,

Sorry to hear you are stuck at camp. Eric is keeping me informed about what that must be like. I imagine it’s more fun than the Builder, and less miserable than attending a rainy losing ND game.

Today I drove to North Lame (or some town nearby that looked exactly the same). It was 95° and smelled strongly of cows. I sat in a windowless conference room for 6 hours and then drove back. My coworkers made a big deal out of eating Rocky Mountain Oysters, which I think sounds like a good name for a local minor league team.

Remember, if you can’t climb because of the cold, use your artistic eye to find an ice cave ballroom.

Love,
Mary

Posted by: Mary on 6/9/2016 at 6:28 am

PULLING FOR YOU GUYS EVERY DAY. THE RMI POSTS ARE GREAT.
BE SAFE
SENDING BEST WISHES TO ENTIRE TEAM AND ESPECIALLY MY FAMILY DAN AND ERIC.

Posted by: Karen Stewart on 6/8/2016 at 8:22 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move Into 17K Camp

June 7, 2016 - 8:30 pm PT We got up this morning to blue skies and a promising forecast. The minute the Big Orange Ball (aka Bob number 2) shined on camp we were outta there, moving uphill. However, we were forced to heavily slow our roll as huge swirling snow plumes were blowing off the 16 ridge and the upper mountain was completely sheeted in wind blown snow. So we picnicked in one of the most beautiful spots in the world. The visibility was almost endless as we could see much of the range in sharp detail. We rested and snacked for over an hour before the winds started looking more and more friendly. Before we knew it, picnicking was over and as we were hopping onto the fixed lines. After the practice a few days before the team zipped to the top and met up with our buried stashes! Then it was on! Climbing the 16 ridge is absolutely breathtaking, and we earned it today. The stiff wind never really let up, but it did nothing to dampen spirits as we looked down 2,500 feet to 14K camp and beyond. Now that the ridge has been walked, and the tents pitched, the team looks to try and recover enough to make a stab at the summit in the morning! Let's just hope this wind blows itself out... RMI Guide Tyler Jones
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Wow congrats guys!! Sounds like such an exciting day! Stay safe on this last push to the top. I can only imagine the gorgeous views from where you are. Im so impressed with you all—what an adventure! Enjoy it!

Ongun I’m sending you all my hugs!Xoxo

Karina

Posted by: Karina on 6/8/2016 at 5:45 am

Summit dogs for everyone!

Posted by: Dad on 6/7/2016 at 9:48 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Resting at 14,000’ Camp

June 6, 2016 - 7:01 pm PT Today we woke to another gray cold morning! And we're well rested now after another 24 hours at 14 Camp. The forecast has been fickle but we forge on with a few laps around camp for the guys. There was a lot of packing, drying, and fidgeting with our equipment. We're preparing for a summit push . The team is excited and well prepared. With some weather on our side we will try to move to high camp at 17,200'! Now we eat, drink and sleep. Will be in touch tomorrow. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Psalm 121 -A Song of Ascents-

“I will lift up my eyes to the hills from whence comes my help. My help comes from the Lord . Who made heaven and earth. He will not allow your foot to be moved. “

The team remains in our thoughts and prayers. We know you are looking at the top of the “high one”.

Waiting patiently as you have in the cold and snow will make your ascent even more glorious.

Everyone is excited about your return!

“Success is the sum of small efforts day in and day out”  Robert Collier


Love,
Mom and Dad

 

 

 

 

Posted by: Carter Adams on 6/7/2016 at 6:56 pm

“In a sense everything that is exists to climb.  All evolution is a climbing towards a higher form.
Climbing for life as it reaches towards the consciousness, towards the spirit.  We have always
honored the high places because we sense them to be the homes of gods.  In the mountains there
is the promise of ..... something unexplainable.  A higher place of awareness, a spirit that soars.
So we climb… and in climbing there is more than a metaphor; there is a means of discovery.”

                                                                        —- anonymous


Thinking of you Blake….. I’m so excited for you !!!
Love, Mom

Posted by: Maria Votilla on 6/7/2016 at 7:11 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Learn About Storm Days

June 5, 2016 - 9:46 p.m. PDT A clear night allowed the radiant heat from yesterday to escape, meaning quite the cool and crisp morning was upon us. When temperatures drop well below zero as they did this morning, it is another level of cold. There is a threshold where the mouths of our insulated Nalgene bottles freeze over, and our 12-liter aluminum water pots in the kitchen become lined with a thick layer of ice all around. The clear morning lured some climbers and neighbors to break camp and begin a push up to high camp. Within a few hours though, the forecast proved accurate as Denali began to cap over and a storm develop. Light to moderate winds here at 14 camp, but still cold and no real warming yet with increasing snowfall intensity. The "nowcast" and short lived morning sun surely tricked those climbers as they were turned around just a thousand feet up by extreme cold and back in camp by noon. Only becoming stronger with continued acclimatization, and tall snow-brick walls fortifying the windward sides of our homestead, we are content with staying put. Our camp now sits in a wind eddy as gusts strong enough to bend trees push into our walls and curl over as we lay in the tents and nap. Nice to have spent a few days dialing in our camp! The team is ready and excited to make a move once the mountain allows, but only with a high safety margin and good style. For now though we'll keep kickin' it at camp: remodeling, relaxing, pancake eating, and cold hard chilling until the weather changes. Also worth noting was last nights impromptu trip to "The Edge of the World". A short walk across Genet Basin brought us to an amazing vista overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier, Mount Hunter and Foraker, and a large portion of the route we traveled in the past week. Evening light and periodic clearing made for a special view. Snow crystals flickered and glittered through the gaps of misty clouds floating 5,000' above the ominous cracks and towering walls of the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Learning how to stay busy during our first real "storm day" isn't so bad! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Stinger,

Waffles please! I know you just came for the waffles.

Good thing you’ve had Chicago training for extreme negative temperatures, powerful gusts of wind, and staying home and napping when you’re scheduled to work. I hope your beard is full enough now to keep you warm while giving you a nice sunglasses tan. The goggles do nothing!

Don’t stick your tongue to anything metal.

Jacket

Posted by: Jacket on 6/6/2016 at 8:29 pm

to Bob: Amelia and Chet think your trip is awesome and that you are crazy.  it sounds “so cool” and Uncle Bob is “the best”  can’t wait to talk to you when you get back.  dad is in boulder/denver and vail next week (you know why).  we are puling for you uncle bob.

Posted by: mark mullen on 6/6/2016 at 7:58 pm


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team - Rest Days are the Best Days

June 4, 2016 - 5:02 pm PT After yesterday's mission caching our summit kits at the top of the fixed lines, the crew is ready for a rest day. We went to bed last night to clear skies and low valley clouds rolling around Foraker and awoke to more perfect views above. Many of the slopes around camp are accruing ski tracks, and providing great entertainment! Today's breakfast was high class gourmet, with salmon and cream cheese bagels and a side of cheesy bacon hash browns. The fresh food has spirits high as we hope for the great weather to continue. Until then we'll continue to chill and watch skiers enjoy the fresh snow. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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You guys are moving impressively fast.  Keep listening to Tyler (especially about putting on your puffy pants before coming into the cook tent) and he will get you to the top! 

- Devin Smith (Tyler Jones Denali University, class of ‘15)

Posted by: Devin Smith on 6/6/2016 at 8:10 am

Cream Cheese,

Your ideas are intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.

When’s your next coffee break? While you are resting, I am staying very productive, and going to church. Watching skiers sounds fun; typical powder hounds.

Remember, if we can do it, so can you! What I’m saying is, I’ll give you the money to keep going. It seems like they’re feeding you well, but if you’re still hungry when you get back, we can go to Arby’s.

— Boo

Posted by: Mrs. Oxygen on 6/6/2016 at 12:15 am

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