Entries By eric frank
Posted by: Eric Frank, Jenny Konway
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
After our summit of Ixta, the team made the journey to the quaint Mexican town of Puebla. We spent today relaxing and soaking up the amenities of the city. The activities ranged from visiting the local artist quarter, seeing the town's oldest library, buying hand made pottery from local artists and catching an afternoon siesta to dodge the heat. We reconvened for dinner at one of the town's favorite restaurants and followed up our meal with some of the best ice cream Mexico has to offer. Currently the team is tucked in for the night, ready for another good night of sleep and looking forward to the final climb of the trip.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
What a jam packed 24 hours it has been! After a fitful night of rest at the Altzomoni Hut, the team packed up and made the climb up to our high camp at 15,300ft. Our packs weighed between 35-40 lbs and that always makes the terrain much more challenging. Regardless, the team climbed well and we were lounging in our tents by mid afternoon. Around 4 pm we roused everyone from their siestas and gathered together in the "Refugio Los Cien" to have some soup and quesadillas.
Not long after we finished eating, the first ping began. It sounded like a child was throwing small handfuls of gravel at the side of the refugio, but then the sound intensified. In a few minutes we were engulfed in a hail storm that lasted an hour. Pellets of ice, ranging from the size of a pencil eraser to a grape, covered the ground. Slowly the hail turned into snow and we all hustled out to our tents. Over the next three hours the storm turned into an epic thunder and lighting event, making us wonder if the climb would even be possible.
At 2 am this morning when the first alarm went off, everything had changed. The skies were clear, the weather warm, the wind was gone and only a few inches of snow on the ground remained to remind us of the previous evening.
The climb was flawless. I would say textbook, but it was better then textbook. We summited at 7:45 am under blue skies with small puffs of smoke from a local volcano to keep us company.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
On The Map
The stoves are whistling and the Mexican Volcanoes team is enjoying a well deserved rest in our new home for the night: the Altzomoni Hut. Today was partially a rest day and partially logistics day to get ourselves in position for the next climb.
We woke this morning up slightly sore, but proud of yesterday's accomplishment. After a few hours on the bus, we made a pit stop in the small city of AmecaMeca to grab lunch and some last minute groceries. From there we drove a winding mountain road back into the clouds.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
So great to hear you guys had success and reached the Top!! So Cool! All the best from your Canadian climbing buddy Dave K!
Posted by: Darcy M on 3/7/2019 at 2:39 pm
Round and round he goes, where he stops, nobody knows: thanks for the adventurous spirit, John. Your friends and family!
Posted by: Peg Wilson on 3/7/2019 at 7:03 am
Greetings! Yesterday, the March Mexico Volcanoes team arrived in the heart of Mexico City, after catching flights from various parts of the country. It is always a long day of travel, but we all managed to arrive without excessive delay or loss of bags. That is a big first victory that puts us in position to get out in the mountains as soon as possible.
The team met for a short chat last night before going to dinner. There is a lot of experience represented in the group and with a good weather forecast, we expect to have a fun and successful trip.
After an early departure this morning from Mexico City, the team arrived at La Malintzi around 11am. We did a quick gear sort, then headed uphill. The skies were clear and the air warm as we made our way up towards the summit. After about five hours of hiking, the team reached the summit of Malinche and was rewarded with sweeping views of the surrounding areas. A quick descent led us back to hot showers and a delicious dinner of grilled meats, fresh chips, and guacamole. We're all headed off to bed after a great day, looking forward to tomorrow's adventures.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Posted by: Eric Frank, Nick Scott, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 6,000'
Saturday, September 8, 2018 - 9:07 AM PT
RMI Assistant Guide Avery Parrinello checked in this morning from the base of the chimney's on the Fisher Chimney Route of Mt. Shuksan. He reported that the team decided to abandon the summit attempt there because of poor and deteriorating weather conditions that included heavy rain. The team will return to camp and dry off the best they can for the hike out tomorrow morning.
Sorry to hear about the poor weather! I imagine you all had fun
Posted by: Jaime on 9/9/2018 at 7:00 am
Regardless of summit or not, I had tons on fun! Thank you RMI!
Posted by: Rahim Charania on 9/8/2018 at 8:15 pm
RMI Guide Eric Frank led the Four Day Summit Climb August 23 - 26 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Eric reported windy conditions and cloud cap forming on the mountain. A low marine layer is sitting below Camp Muir. The team began their descent from the crater rim at 8:40 AM PT. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team decided to swap the smoky air of the North Cascades for the cleaner ocean air of Mt. Erie. The downside to the change is less significant peak objectives, but still quality rock climbing and rock movement training grounds. The team ended the program on a high note and under blue skies. Forecasts for the coming days in the North Cascades are predicting that the smoke will clear out and should provide ideal climbing conditions for climbs on Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, and in the Boston Basin.
RMI Guide Eric Frank reported in from the summit of their first peak: Sahale Mountain. Sahale requires a strenuous glaciated climb up the Quien Sabe Glacier and a 300' scramble up a 4th class rock pyramid. Eric reported that the wind changed direction last night and the wildfire smoke rolled back over them; which made for tough, smoky climbing. However, the team is happy with their first successful summit and ready for more.
Hey everybody, this is Eric Frank calling from the summit of Forbidden Peak. It's a few minutes after noon here, and we finally managed to get above the wildfire smoke. So we've just popped up above it and its nice cIean air here. We had a great climb this morning. We left from Camp around 5:30, and here we are on top two and a half hours later. We're going to enjoy a few more moments, and then get packed up to head down. We will call to check in later today and let you know that we're safely back in Camp. Thanks.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the Forbidden Peak summit in the North Cascades
The Four Day Summit Climb August 5 - 8 led by RMI Guide Eric Frank reached the summit around 7:15 AM this morning. Eric reported warm conditions with a light wind above 13,000' as the group ascended from Camp Muir to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed the views from the crater and began their descent from the crater rim around 8 AM. The team will return to Camp Muir and continue down to Paradise later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!
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Happy to hear this trip is going great for everyone! Dave Kestel your Rainier gang is proud of this accomplishment! Can’t wait for you to talk our ears off about it!
Posted by: Jodi Kirincich on 3/7/2019 at 1:30 pm
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