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Entries By jt schmitt

Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Carry to 10,000’

Friday May 20 - 10:38pm

Today we woke to another perfectly sunny windless day. The team moved strongly up to 10,000 feet where we cached gear to retrieve later.

After that we made short work of the descent, and are now back at camp 1, hoping to move up the mountain tomorrow!!

JT and the RMI team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Fly to the Glacier Settle in to Camp 1

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 12:35 am PT

Today the team woke up from a tumultuously excited slumber to bluebird skies and calm winds in Talkeetna, which apparently mirrored the conditions in the Alaska range. Due to our fastidious preparation the day before we stepped off the asphalt onto two full loaded Dehavilland Otters shortly after 830.

As the wheels left the tarmac we were treated to the most incredible flight into the Alaska Range I have ever experienced. It seemed as if we could see forever, and that’s because I’m pretty sure we could. The winds were so calm that we could fly through passes with granite and glaciers towering above the planes, seemingly no more than a wingspan away.

As the skis of the Otters came to a stop we were pleased to hear the sound of frozen crunchy snow beneath our boots. After a few hours of re packing and reviewing skills, we walked to Camp 1 under deep blue skies, wearing nothing but our sun hoodies and toothy grins.

Now we are settled into our sleeping bags, much like our camp is nestled in the immense beauty of the alaska range.

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Ken!  What amazing scenery!  Our best wishes to you and your team members for a safe and successful climb!  We’ll be following your progress.

Diane and John

Posted by: Diane and John Bertosa on 5/21/2022 at 11:11 am

What beautiful pictures!!  Must have been an amazing flight and glad to hear the walk to Camp 1 elicited more grins than groans (although one could not fault you for leaving those out of the blog!).  Thanks so much for posting!!

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/21/2022 at 3:41 am

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Organize Gear in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly!

Wednesday, May 18, 2022 - 11:19 pm PT

Here is the first dispatch from the third RMI Denali team! We are all packed up and ready to fly in the morning. Our team was efficient and prepared today as we organized all the necessary items for a Denali expedition. The weather is beautiful in Talkeetna and we are excited for the climb ahead. 

RMI guides Jackson Breen, Matias Francis, JT Schmitt and team. 

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They’ve got great guides!

Posted by: George Strait on 5/20/2022 at 2:16 pm

Looks like a strong team!!!

Posted by: Anna Budayr on 5/20/2022 at 7:35 am

Mt. Rainier: Weather Keeps May 14th Team at Camp Muir

Strong winds and about a foot of fresh snow prevent the Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Alex Halliday from leaving Camp Muir. Big spring storms and winter like weather are keeping all climbing teams from reaching the summit. 

The team will enjoy the stormy morning with a leisurely breakfast before starting their descent. We expect them to return to Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.

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Glad you’re staying safe! Enjoy the rest of your adventure, mountaineers! We look forward to hearing about the trip and seeing photos!

Posted by: Jane and Doug Green on 5/14/2022 at 9:48 am

So excited to watch your progress!  Stay safe and have a fabulous adventure!  Love from Michigan!

Posted by: Charlene Hatfield on 5/14/2022 at 8:34 am

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Return to Talkeetna, Heading Home

Yesterday we got to the air strip nice and early. We arrived at the Kahiltna Glacier air strip at 7 am after a long trip down from 17,000' Camp. Unfortunately the weather was not conducive to flying until 6:30 pm, but we made it off! The team was excited to get back to Talkeetna and enjoy hot showers and food. Now everyone is working their way back home. It’s been a successful Denali expedition and thanks so much for following along!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali team 

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Summit!

Sunday, June 20, 2021 - 8:23 pm PT

This afternoon around 2pm the team stood on top of Denali! After weeks of hard work we got the sweet reward of the top.

We were the first team to summit in at least four days, which made for a true Alaskan climbing experience. We broke trail for 7.5 hours to get to the top. Most of the permanent protection was buried, so we placed our own and put in the track to the top!

Starting early made it so we had the peak to ourselves and really got a true experience of a summit day on Denali!

Now we just have to descend from 17K Camp to the upper airstrip over the next couple days. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

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Congratulations to my my son, Alan Davis and to the rest of the team on your summit!  Dad couldn’t be more proud of you!  A wonderful Father’s Day gift to have given me!  Love you and safe travels to you and the team on your descent!

Posted by: Patrick Davis on 6/21/2021 at 1:03 pm

Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team, who summited Denali yesterday. Matt, you worked so hard training. In fact for this climb you started in 2020 only to have that trip canceled. Buddie, our sheltie, enjoyed his mountain climbing in Phoenix on your easy days of training. So glad your guides let you make a second attempt for the summit. And thank the guides for great up dates. Safe travel to the 6 of you down the mountain. Can’t wait to hear the stories.

Posted by: Mary and George Howell on 6/21/2021 at 12:07 pm

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Waiting at High Camp

Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 3:51 pm PT

Today we woke up to snow and wind. We are resting and acclimating today, hoping to climb tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make Summit Attempt, Return to High Camp

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

The team tried to summit today, and as usual we performed like a well oiled machine. Unfortunately we weren’t able to make it to the top due to adverse and unexpected obstacles that again, the team handled exquisitely. We put in a track up to Denali pass and hope to make it up again in the coming days.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Texas taking in oklahoma state

Kevin durant, kevin DURANT, OH KEVIN DURANT…..

Posted by: Digger Phelps on 6/20/2021 at 4:24 pm

Good luck, be safe, and thanks for taking us along!

Posted by: Joe Eley on 6/20/2021 at 4:08 am

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait for Weather Window

Thursday, June 17, 2021 1:33 pm PT

This morning we woke up to a foot of new snow and the winds have been blowing 30 mph all day, which is slightly unpleasant but what we expected. There is a lot of strategy in expedition climbing, and this plan is part of that. We got up to 17,000' camp yesterday knowing it would not be possible today, and now we are in position to take advantage of tomorrow’s supposed high pressure.

Send good thoughts our way for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT, Alan, Kirra and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Vano, when you shotgun a beer at the summit, have you thought about the pressure change and how that beer may just buss everywhere? Please get back to me


Posted by: Heater on 6/18/2021 at 5:10 am

Sending good thoughts!

Posted by: Ann on 6/17/2021 at 6:49 pm

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Reach 17,000ft Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

Wednesday, June 16, 2021 - 8:29 pm PT

We made it to High Camp, 17,200' on Denali. It’s a little blustery but other than that all is good here. Keeping our fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Matt - Hopefully your next push will be the summit. Good luck and keep climbing. Best of weather and conditions so you can look down on Ross, Jason and Eli further down the glacier. Congratulations in advance! Gerard

Posted by: Gerard Crum on 6/17/2021 at 8:39 am

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