Entries By pete van deventer
We finally made some big moves! Weather was perfect this morning, so we ate our first mountain breakfast and worked on getting our ropes, sleds, and packs rigged for travel. The first morning always takes a bit, between organizing things for the first time, breaking down camp, and all of the other chores like digging cache that have to get done. By noon we were walking, and from there, things couldn't have gone more smoothly. We made excellent time, rolling in to camp with tons of daylight left. We move into a nice camp that had been left, retrofitted it a bit, and then settled in to the
mountain routine: making water, dinner, and then more water. Our goal is to cache a load of food and fuel higher up tomorrow, probably just below 11,000', putting us in place to move camp up there the next day.
We'll let you know how it goes!
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and Team
It took us an extra try, but ultimately our patience prevailed and the very talented pilots of K2 Aviation were able to thread us through some funky clouds and get us in to
Kahiltna Base Camp. We made our first run at 12:30 PM and made it almost all the way before a bank of fog turned us back. We landed back in Talkeetna to heavy rain, took off our boots, and settled back in to our waiting game. Then at 5 PM there seemed to be a break and we got the green light. The flight in was spectacular as always, flying right through the rugged peaks and walls of the Alaska Range. Since we weren't in until evening, we decided to put up camp, make dinner, and spend the night here. Tomorrow we will hopefully have the conditions to move our camp and all of our gear to our Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill.
We are happily tucked into sleeping bags for our first night on the mountain, glad to finally be here!
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team
On The Map
Wednesday, May 23, 2018
Well, we have checked all of our boxes to take off, but we weren't able to track down flyable weather to get us in to
Base Camp on Denali. Fog rolled in first thing this morning on the glacier landing strip, and we spent the day on standby, waiting for it to clear. Instead, moisture continued to stream into the Alaska range, and rain came off and on to Talkeetna. With a lot of daylight up here this time of year, our flying window is long, and we stuck it out until 8pm, when we finally accepted another night in town and checked into the hotel again. What do you do on a standby day in Talkeetna? Nap in the hanger, download more movies, chat, and explore the curio shops on Main Street, ready to drop everything and run back to the hanger at a moment's notice should things clear. All of that is punctuated by frequent trips to the coffee shop. We'll enjoy another night in a bed and wake up tomorrow to see what the weather gives us. This is the game that we are playing in Alaska!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team
Our day in Talkeenta progressed at a pretty leisurely pace. We started off with our orientation at the National Park Service after a visit to the coffee shop, and followed that with brunch at the Talkeetna Roadhouse, lest old traditions fail. Then it was into gear: double checking everything we brought, sorting, and packing for the plane flight to
Kahiltna Base Camp. With our bags weighed and stacked, ready to be loaded into the Otters, we have done all we can do. It's in the hands of the pilots and weather now. We will head out to town for dinner, and hope to wake up to clear skies and flying weather!
We'll keep you posted,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Christina Dale reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver at 12,300'. The team turned due to unstable snow conditions. Pete reported mostly clear skies with a thin cap over the summit, and winds of about 20 mph from the north. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
The
Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Pete VanDeventer and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Pete reported winds of about 40 mph, but clear skies as they climbed above the marine layer. The team has started their descent and are en-route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Hannah McGowan led their Four Day Summit Climb teams August 29 - 1 September to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Pete reported light winds and clear skies. The teams enjoyed the views from the summit before starting their descent.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
The
Mt. Elbrus North Side expedition is a wrap. As I write, I am sitting in the Amsterdam airport, and the team is in the process of scattering to the winds; some will continue traveling, while others are headed home to family and friends. It's amazing that the trip is already over, as it flew by. We spent yesterday on a walking tour of the best cathedrals, gardens, and palaces of St. Petersburg. The sheer size and scale of St. Isaac's Cathedral was stunning, the luminous mosaics of the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood were fascinating, and the history of the founding of the city and derive during WWII were enlightening. We wandered through the Hermitage, as enthralled with the architecture and ornate rooms as we were with the collection of some of the world's finest art. Degas, Renoir, Michalangelo, Picasso, and so many more were on display. We finished up the trip with a delightful boat tour in the River Nieva, seeing St. Petersburg from the vantage that most in 1800 would have seen it, via the canals. Finally we gathered one last time at the Jerome for a last celebration dinner before we parted.
It's been a fantastic trip, with an smashing bunch of new friends. We had great weather, a perfect summit day, built a hut, and tried to become a bit more worldly along the way. So many thanks to this group of climbers. Mike and I had so much fun, and we look forward to crossing paths in the mountains again soon!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike Uchal
We said goodbye to
Elbrus Base Camp and our newly made friends yesterday morning and climbed back into the 4x4 sprinter van for the drive out to Kislovodsk, but not before putting another couple of hours into the hut, finishing the roof. What's left is some trim work and flooring. It was fun to leave knowing that we had left a small mark of our passing, and had helped in some small way.
The drive out was as exhilarating as the drive in, bouncing and grinding our way up the rough dirt track with the steep green slopes of the Caucasus just to the right of our wheels. Once we reached pavement everyone let out a collective breath and settled in. Once in Kislovodsk, we did what every climber does after a long expedition: took showers, shaved, and went looking for food and drink. Those comforts of town feel so much more pleasurable after being deprived of them for a little while. We made merry, celebrating one last night as a full team, and convincing the DJ at the restaurant to bring a little of home back by playing some Garth Brooks.
This morning we will part ways with a few of our team members as they head for home, and the rest of us head to St. Petersburg to spend a day exploring the art, architecture and culture of another great Russian city. We'll try to send some photos!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
With little to do today besides organize our gear for the next leg of our adventure, we might have wondered how we would occupy ourselves for a day in
Base Camp. The Cunninghams took care of that worry, organizing a barn raising of sorts to build a hut that our outfitter has been meaning to put together. With furring strips, floor boards, and siding located, we went to work, only slightly hampered by dodgy extension cords that didn't always provide enough power from the generator to run a drill. The activity kept everyone occupied, and just as we put up the last siding on the walls and were considering the roof, the clouds moved over and the rain started falling.
We've been resting in tents, staying dry since. Chances are this storm quits soon, as each one has throughout our expedition, and we'll enjoy a last night in base camp before returning to Kislovodsk early tomorrow. From there it will be in to St. Petersburg and the finale of our trip. We're looking forwards to showers and Shashlik (the local barbeque) tomorrow.
From Russia with love,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
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Go John Go! Go Raj Go! Hope you can feel the Pom Poms
Posted by: Sue Mamer on 5/27/2018 at 4:34 pm
Magnus! Awesome to read that you are on your way and that the weather is on your side!
Sending you lots of strength and hope you and the team will take you all the way up to the top.
Be safe and know we are following your progress! Björn reminds you! In Sweden blue skies and +25C every day :)
The plant team in Billes!
Posted by: Anne on 5/27/2018 at 5:09 am
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