Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: June 14th SUMMIT!

June 14, 2014

Posted by: Lindsay Mann, Josh Maggard, Ben Liken, Katrina Bloemsma, JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by JJ Justman and Lindsay Mann reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported great climbing conditions with winds of about 5 - 15 mph as they climbed above the clouds. The teams will spend some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!

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Congratulations Cory, Hope you enjoyed every minute.
We Love You, Mom and Dad

Posted by: Robert and Lori on 6/14/2014 at 9:11 am

Way to go Rob! Can’t wait to see the pictures.

Posted by: Bob Haley on 6/14/2014 at 8:23 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to Camp 1

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 13, 2014 - 8:22 pm PT With an early start, we headed out from Basecamp to Camp 1 at 7,700ft. We left camp at six this morning and traveled down the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The beginning portion is called Heartbreak Hill since it is downhill from Basecamp. This same hill is a heartbreaking uphill climb upon return to Basecamp after the climb. We made very good time as we joined the main Kahiltna Glacier and headed towards camp. Although it is not a big elevation gain day, it is a steady rise from the base of Heartbreak to Camp 1. We arrived in camp around 10:30 this morning and got ourselves dug in since the weather has been pretty touchy this season. Our plan, if the weather allows, is to carry some of our gear up towards Kahiltna Pass around 10,000 ft. We carried our entire load today (100lb+ per person). Now it is time to start caching gear up higher to make our travels more efficient and to help us with our acclimatization process. Good night! RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Team "The Ocho"

On The Map

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Bruce—You inspire me every time I am at Erik’s and this just tops the charts. You are in better shape than anyone I know. I wish you all the best for a successful climb. Kick some serious Denali butt! Thinking of you . . . Leah

Posted by: Leah Medway on 6/18/2014 at 10:30 am

Bruce,go for it,keep warm,love mom and dad

Posted by: Mom on 6/15/2014 at 8:40 am

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Reach Camp 1

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 13, 2014 - 9:40 pm PT Welcome! To the first of many blog installments for the June 10, 2014, RMI expedition to Denali. Our team first met a couple days ago in Anchorage and enjoyed a cramped van ride up to Talkeetna. There, we spent the following day packing and prepping for our bush flight in the midst of a shaky weather forecast. We went to bed on Wednesday night locked and loaded with our fingers crossed for blue skies in the a.m... As luck would have it our good friends at K2 Aviation were able to drop us off at Kahiltna Basecamp in a pair of Otter ski planes first thing in the morning! After building and moving in to our camp we spent the rest of the day making our final preparations for the trip. Today was the first real day of the expedition. We woke early and broke camp and packed up for our single-carry to Camp 1 at 7,800'. A single-carry means we are loaded down with all of the equipment, food, and fuel to sustain our expedition for 22 days... It rounds out to about 100lbs of gear per climber split between a sled and backpack. We had a couple of occasional breaks of clear skies but spent most of the day sheltered from the blazing sun by a thin layer of clouds and light snow flurries. While it might sound inclement, it actually kept temperatures from getting too warm and made for nice walking. We are all settled in at 7,800' for the night and are hoping to continue up tomorrow with another single-carry to 9,600' and Camp 2. We'll check in again and let ya'll know how it went... RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

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Happy Father’s Day Michael and to any other fathers with you! Your life lessons have been and continue to be incredible. Enjoy the journey! Love you and stay safe!!

Posted by: Mary Lou Quandt on 6/15/2014 at 7:15 am

Mike,
cycling class isn’t as fun without you! We are thinking of you daily!
Well wishes-Paige and Warren

Posted by: paige woodward on 6/14/2014 at 7:02 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Waits for a Weather Window

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 13, 2014 - 6:45 pm PT After caching food and gear on the ridge yesterday, we are back at our 14k camp waiting for a weather window to move up. The forecast is showing an improving trend in the next few days. For now we are waiting, passing the time by throwing the football around, playing ice axe horseshoes, and sport eating. We are, of course, anxious for the weather to improve, but spirits are high and the rest is only making us stronger. Well, that's all for now, we are keeping our fingers crossed for good weather. Thanks for following our progress. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

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I shall be in Arvin ,California on Monday ,June 16th….ELEVATION 449. Someone in this family has to stay grounded and out of the clouds…...MOM….always the voice of reason!
I will stay close to my phone so I don’t miss any important calls.

Happy Fathers Day to all of you Dads out there, following the expedition!!!!!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 6:27 pm

Hey John and UWR Team,

Monday, June 16, around noon, I should be at 14,505’ on Mt. Whitney for my annual trek. You may be on your summit push near that time, 20,237’. The sum is 34,742 feet. I will wave towards you! That is cruising altitude for most airliners. What a special coincidence, that is the day the Forest Service gave me my permit. Your Mother should have quite the day. Good luck to the UWR Team.

Love, Dad

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 4:32 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Rest and Re-Fuel

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 13, 2014 3:21pm PT Denali is a mountain of many moods. Yesterday, as we carried our cache to our highest point yet, she gave us a taste of moderate winds and blowing snow, showing a little irritation. Today, she seems more benign, with light winds, high clouds, and intermittent snow here in camp. The tents are warm and comforting, and we're all enjoying a well earned rest session. To that end, we started the morning with plenty of hot coffee, endless strips of crispy, delicious bacon, and the Tyler Jones specialty of blueberry pancakes that would give the best griddle cooks a serious run for their money. The perfectly browned hot cakes, the secrets of which TJ learned from his grandpa, just kept coming, and we all ate our fill until we couldn't stuff another one down. The remainder of the day will be dedicated to recuperation, re-hydration, and maximum relaxation. In fact, the main goal is to move as little as possible and save our energy for the climbing to come. Until then, we'll be standing by, waiting for the best window for our summit push. Thanks for all the positive vibes and keep'em coming! Cheers for now, check back tomorrow... Team No Troubles

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Dave, Although I believe you are on the mountain, I want some proof with some close-up pictures of you! Put them on this site so we can see them. I hope you’re staying warm. Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/15/2014 at 10:12 am

Hi Paul. I’m hoping that your journey is not harder than you imagined, and that your still enjoying yourself. Things are going good here. It was supposed to rain most of the weekend, but had some sun, so did some weeding. (BLAH!!!!) Just finished eating my “Sunday” night papa’s pizza. ( We’re breaking all kinds of rules when your gone. Haha!) Stay safe. We miss you. Alex & the dogs, say Happy Dad’s Day!!! Love Ronda, Al, Meeka (the dog who drank half my coffee this AM) and Max.

Posted by: Ronda Kinneberg on 6/14/2014 at 5:25 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Retrieve Cache

June 13, 2014

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 13, 2014 12:18am PT After a good night's rest the team hit the trail again, heading back to 9,700' feet to retrieve our cache. The weather was great and everyone enjoyed the cool temps and beautiful scenery. It was a great day to stretch the legs. Back at camp we rested a bit and then reviewed some basic techniques required for life on the upper mountain. Now reacquainted with our emergency ice axe skills and proficient cramponing, we are prepared to carry toward 14,000' Camp if the weather allows. Now it's off to bed to be ready for a big day tomorrow if we can catch a break on the weather. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

On The Map

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Happy Birthday Edd

Posted by: christine beach on 6/14/2014 at 10:02 am

Hey Jared and team, Keep up the good work! Watching you everyday on the blog-Stay strong and Im praying for great weather. We all Love you Mom and Dad :)

Posted by: Donna Schulz on 6/13/2014 at 10:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Climb and Cache

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 12, 2014 10:25pm PT After sitting watching the wind blow furiously for two days, we finally got the break we needed to climb up to the Rib and cache some gear. The trail breaking was deep, often between mid-calf and mid-thigh and required us to swap guides breaking trail every stretch. Conditions on the Rib itself were great. The wind had swept away most of the powder, leaving perfect Styrofoam snow- an ideal surface for cramponning. Eventually we found a cache location around 15,800'. The weather above us was windy and cold, but we were able to bury the gear and head downhill without getting punished by the weather. As we tuck into bed, the team has a content feeling that everything is in order and all we need is suitable weather to push for the summit. Thanks to everyone who has followed our progress. Much love and warm thoughts. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the UWR team

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That’s a lot of bagels. John, I told you that you would miss the Kings winning the Stanley Cup! It was a nail biter. Now I can fully concentrate on your team’s achievements. I’m very excited by your march to the top and am with you every step of the way. Everyone, continue to have fun and stay strong. Tante

Posted by: Lisa Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:46 pm

The photo of “stashin’ the cache” gives new meaning to the old fashioned term “icebox”!!!
I am loving the photos that you guys are sending us. They are really giving us a visual of all that you are experiencing. Although, the temperatures up there are beyond my comprehension! Stay strong, stay safe!!! Lots of love to all of you!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:10 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 13th - Update

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Reid, Pete Van Deventer, Sean Collon, Christina Dale, Andrew Kiefer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,600'

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Pete Van Deventer were turned at 12,600’ due to weather. The team climbed into a cap and reported low visibility, cold temperatures, snow showers a couple of inches of accumulation and light to moderate winds. The teams are en route Back to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon. Congratulations to Today's Teams.

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Will and Tim it was an honor to have attempted the summit of Rainier with you. Pete, I would follow your lead up any mountain my friend. You kept it cool and calm under all conditions, including me tugging at your rope at 12,000ft.

Posted by: charles on 6/18/2014 at 7:57 am

Good try Ted and friends. Weather can be the decider up on Rainier. The Top of the Cleaver is still high, and it is the crux of the route you were on. The mountain will always be there and I know you will go back. Hopefully, I can go with you again! Still a great adventure and a big accomplishment.
Dad

Posted by: Jim Daverman on 6/13/2014 at 4:28 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Locked and Loaded, Luggaged Lugged

June 12, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 12, 2014 - 9:47 pm PT Climbing in Alaska, so close to the Arctic circle is never an easy task. Formidable and imposing features surround the landscape we travel through. Climbing, especially on "The High One" presents the added challenge of high winds, low temperatures, and high altitude. Today, we awoke to one of these elements; low temperatures. It makes for a unique challenge when faced with the need to begin the days work. Forcing ones self to leave the warm cocoon you have been comfortably nestled in all night. We began our day with a warm dose of oatmeal and hot drinks, and soon took off towards the fixed lines that lay above our current camp at 14,000 feet, in Genet Basin. As an expedition this was our first time above our current camp. As we struck out from camp we welcomed the warmth of the sun on our backs. After climbing to the base of the fixed lines, we began our steepest climbing of the day. Travel was smooth and the reality of the climbing set in. From the top of the fixed lines we ran the ridge of the West Buttress and made efficient work to the base of "The Thumb," at 16,700'. We created a cache of food and some personal items needed for high camp and our summit attempt. From our cache we retraced our steps back to camp. The team made quick work of dinner and now are fast asleep. For now we wait and rest, ready to launch. All we need is a window and bang! We're off. Keep it locked in... RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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Jen - Way to go! Fixed lines - it’s getting real. I know you’re doing awesome. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back.

Posted by: Nicole on 6/13/2014 at 8:17 pm

Hi Will! I got your postcard of Denali yesterday! Such a sweet surprise - I’m praying for you and missing you! The a/c at the office is nothing compared to your frigid temps but know that I’m shivering with u and dreaming of the day I can go to Alaska w u! Remember the anchorage guy in the RV we met in the parking lot of lake Louise? Good mems! Luv u big time - da wife.

Posted by: Christine on 6/13/2014 at 9:26 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team on Mountain Time

June 12, 2014

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

June 12, 2014 - 9:02 pm PT RMI Team Haugen is at Kahiltna Basecamp. We departed just before 9:00 am from Talkeetna as the weather was clearing and Denali was looming in the distance. We have taken the day to organize our gear and get a plan together to tackle the lower glacier. Basecamp is in good shape with all of the new snowfall and we are excited to head out towards Camp 1 at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. We plan on leaving basecamp very early since it did get pretty warm during midday today. The adventure begins! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Bruce & Michael - You’re living the life you love & loving the life you live. GOOD LUCK to your entire team! xo Jen

Posted by: Jen Bush on 6/13/2014 at 6:17 pm

Dear Bruce and Michael,
It is great to see you “climbing” your dream. Sending you well wishes,
Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Damico on 6/13/2014 at 2:59 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: June 14th SUMMIT!

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to Camp 1

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Reach Camp 1

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Waits for a Weather Window

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Rest and Re-Fuel

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Retrieve Cache

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Climb and Cache

Mt. Rainier: June 13th - Update

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Locked and Loaded, Luggaged Lugged

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team on Mountain Time

On The Map

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