RMI Expeditions Blog

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Returns from Cayambe Climb

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Hey, this is Mike Walter calling on Tuesday the 25th of June. We are all at Chilcabamba Hacienda outside of Cotopaxi National Park. We spent two days at Cayambe, sleeping up above 15,000'. Yesterday we went out for our summit bid on Cayambe, we had a great day of climbing. The winds turned us around above 18,000'. We were within about 1,000' of the summit maybe 700' of the summit. But the winds, a cloud cap and some riming ice on our clothing turned us around. We are back at Chilcabamba resting and we'll head to Cotopaxi tomorrow to attempt that one. We are all doing well and enjoying our climbing here in Ecuador.

RMI Guide Mike Walter checks in from Ecuador after Cayambe climb.

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Mt. Rainier: June 25th Update

June 25, 2013

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Win Whittaker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,500'

The Five Day Summit Climbs June 21 - 25 led by Seth Waterfall and Win Whittaker were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams climbed to 10,500’ before deciding to turn around due to snow conditions and high winds. The Five Day Kautz Climb led by Adam Knoff moved up to their High Camp at the western edge of the Turtle snowfield between 9,400' - 10,500' yesterday. They will spend today training at the Castle. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Billy Nugent arrived at Inter Glacier yesterday afternoon. They will be moving to Camp Schurman today.

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 17K Camp

June 24, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Monday, June 24th, 2013 Only 3000 feet to go! We woke up around 4:30 this morning and packed up our 14k camp. We headed uphill towards the fixed lines and hit them as the sun began to beat down on us. It was a stark difference from the other day when it was ridiculously cold from the wind. We worked our way up the fixed lines and gained the ridge on top of the West Buttress. We picked up our cache as we followed the ridge towards 17k camp. By the time we got to camp we were plenty tired. We dug in deep to protect us from the big winds that can happen at 17,000 feet on De-gnarly. Dehydrated meals and hot chocolate in the tent... bed time! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I meant picture on the Rim…

Posted by: Stacy Turner on 6/26/2013 at 6:33 am

Awesome picture of you all on the summit! A much better view than the one I have in Falls Creek, PA. :-P
Can’t wait to see you on the summit Cindee.

Posted by: Stacy Turner on 6/26/2013 at 6:31 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day

June 24, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, June 24th, 2013 Today the team enjoyed a well deserved day of relaxation and gluttony. After three days of early starts we had a leisurely morning of coffee and breakfast burritos followed by some high intensity competitive napping. Unfortunately it was too close a match to declare a winner at this point, stay tuned for the sudden death nap-off during our next rest day. Before dinner we reviewed crampon techniques and discussed our carry to 13,200' tomorrow. Mac and Cheese with bacon for dinner should provide sufficient calories to fuel us for mañana. We have been lucky thus far with excellent weather and the forecast is looking just as good. Knock on wood, I sure hope that didn't jinx us. Thanks to friends and family for tuning in. RMI Guides Geoff, Robby, Pete, and our stellar team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mac and cheese with bacon?? Set another place, I’ll stop by.

I hope the good weather holds up for you guys.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/25/2013 at 8:45 am

Tommy, it’s awesome to hear you had a great day of rest! I hope you were able to find some special quiet time to journal and reflect in the amazing beauty that surrounds you. I was so happy to be able to see Brandon last night for prom. He was so handsome, just like his dad. It brought back special memories! I will be praying for the tough day ahead. I know how strong you are, though, and that gives me strength. I love you!
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 6/25/2013 at 7:21 am

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Mountaineering Training | Climber’s Perspective on Training for Rainier

June 24, 2013

Posted by:

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

I climbed Mt. Rainier just before my 57th birthday. I am from Boston and live at sea level, so the idea of climbing to 14,411’ was a bit daunting. Since I was climbing with my daughter, an RMI Guide, the pressure was on for me to bring my A game, if you can have such game at my age. For me, the only way to prepare for Rainier was to go hiking. As I am a 9-to-5-office worker, my options were a bit limited, but in general this was my plan. Eight weeks before my climb, I started my program. I did my best to go hiking at least one day per week. Most of my training was done in the White Mountains since it is a two-hour drive from where I live. I started by hiking Mt. Osceola, a five-mile, 2,100 vertical foot climb while carrying a light pack. From there I quickly moved up to Mt. Moosilauke, a seven and a half mile, 2,600 vertical foot climb. In between my weekend trips to the White Mountains, I would try and bike between fifteen and twenty miles a few times a week after work. In addition, three times per week I included a core workout. So that you do not get the wrong impression about my interests, I am also an avid sailboat racer. In the weeks leading up to my climb, I was trying to balance my sailing schedule and my work schedule with my training for the Mt. Rainier climb. After the first few hikes, I started hiking Mt. Lafayette, a beautiful hike located in Franconia Notch, New Hampshire. It is an eight-mile hike that climbs 3,600 feet. The first time I hiked Lafayatte I carried a light pack. The following week, I climbed Lafayette again. This time I filled old orange juice bottles with water and added them to my pack for additional weight. My next move was to add Little Haystack and Mt. Lincoln to my trip. This now created a loop where I could climb 4,400 feet while walking only nine miles. Coincidently, this is comparable to the climb up to Camp Muir. My next step was to add weight to my back and to do this loop two days in a row. Having successfully completed this I felt like I was ready to fly out west to make my final preparations. A few notes on my final preparations. Most of my hikes were in warm weather and having plenty of water was critical. In addition, occasional cramping in my legs and other muscles were an issue for me. In part the cramping was a fatigue issue, however, it was also a hydration and dietary issue. As I ate more salty snacks and drank sports drinks on my hikes, cramping became less of a problem. My last concern was the altitude. One of the challenges of climbing Mt. Rainier is the inability to acclimate. In my ideal world, I would have spent time doing some light hiking at altitude before my climb; however, that was not an option. Instead I was able to fly to Seattle a few days before my climb. I spent a day at Crystal Mountain, rode the gondola to the top of the mountain at 7,000 feet and did a light hike. The following day I went for great hike in the Tatoosh Range in Mt. Rainier National Park. The goal of these hikes was to get some light exercise, while keeping my legs fresh for the following day. As for my climb up Rainier; it was just Lindsay and me. We left Paradise around nine in the morning and motored up the snowfield, or at least in my mind we did. Then we ate, hydrated and went to “sleep” in the early evening. We woke up in the dark and started climbing. The weather was perfect and we reached the summit just in time to watch the sunrise. By late afternoon we were back at Paradise. In the end, I felt like my legs were ready for the challenge of the climb. However, I found the altitude to be the biggest challenge. For me, on summit day it was all about finding the rythmn between my climbing and breathing, being mentally tough, and enjoying the climb with my daughter. - Robert Mann _______ Robert Mann is an avid skier, hiker, and sailor who lives with his wife and family near Boston, MA.

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I am 57 and just Summited this week…on the 6 day skills course via the Paradise Glacier route. I tried last year with my son and did not make the summit. I had a whole year to think about it and there was no way I was to be denied. I trained harder, had a better feel for the exposure and was mentally 100%. I will be back again as well.

Posted by: Mark Livingston on 7/14/2013 at 6:16 pm

Being Robert Mann’s senior by 10 years I tried Mount Rainier last September at 68 years of age. I made it to the first rest area above Muir but decide to turn back when the guides said any turn back from that point on would cause everyone on my rope to turn back with me. I had no intention of wrecking my teams climb so I turned back to Muir. Looking back I still feel it was the right thing to do…no regrets and also a decision that was totally supported by the Guides. And as a PS, about 5 or 6 other people from other teams turned back with me. I was grateful for that as I didn’t want to be the only one to wimp out.

Robert’s experience is interesting because he got to do this with his daughter, a professional guide. He was, I’m sure, able to stop and rest when necessary. On a rope with 7 or 8 much younger people and guides who can do this climb in their sleep, the schedule became to aggressive for the “old guy’ in the group.

After the climb I joked with an RMI staffer that they should consider a senior citizen climb. Having read Robert’s story I think RMI might find a new market of older people who are fit enough to make Rainier’s summit if provided with individual guides or with a limited number of team members of similar vintage.

Last September’s climb was my first and last attempt at Rainier. I’m back to climbing the White Mountains of New Hampshire and just returned from a 4 day, 15 mile hike up and over Mount Washington.

Cograts to Robert Mann and to the RMI Marketing department, consider a special senior version of the 5 day climb. You might find a market in our aging population.

Regards to all,

Bob

Posted by: Robert French on 7/4/2013 at 7:21 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Settle into 11K Camp

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, June 23rd, 2013 Hello all, We're checking in from 11k! We woke at a more reasonable hour this morning to a centimeter or so of new snow, and crystal blue skies. There was nothing to do but eat a big breakfast, crash our camp, and bounce to 11,000 feet. Just over two hours later we rolled into camp, psyched to finally be setting up shop for a few days. We dug a big kitchen, got the tents all bomb proof, and enjoyed an afternoon lounging in (or hiding from) the sun. With a full rest day tomorrow, it was a relaxed evening, and we spectated as the rangers skied a few laps above camp. The group's competitive personalities are coming out, and tomorrow we have scheduled a competitive napping event. We'll let you know who the winners are! Until then, Happily resting at 11k. RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, et al.

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Hi Wyatt! It’s been raining since you left! The pictures of the mountain look beautiful. We really enjoy reading what your group is doing from this blog. Take Care and stay safe and strong. Love ya, Mom and Dad

Posted by: Marian Evenson on 6/24/2013 at 5:10 pm

Hugo ,we wish you a nice and safe journey! Enjoy your ride !
From your brother , Luis Heitor .

Posted by: Luis Heitor Picchioni on 6/24/2013 at 10:26 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, June 23rd, 2013 We woke up with a couple of inches of snow on the tents this morning. No storms or winds, just the friendly June kind of Denali snow. We had a very pleasant rest day. We checked in with the camp gossip and watched a few teams head up the fixed line towards 17k. Our plan is to head up to 17,000 ft and make a camp. We have really been doing a great job of sport eating and no one has had any problems with this altitude. We are all very excited because we do not drag any sleds up past this camp. RMI Summit Team 6 P.S. Lance wants Penny to know that he is keeping up with his dental hygiene. (But the rest of him has not washed in ten days! Also, Uchal says Happy 2nd Birthday Lulu!

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Hello Gregory Grasshopper! We all had a fun time in Austin, swimming in the Pedernales, eating, and catching up. We are thinking of you and hope all continues to go well. Midge and Pete say hi.

Love you,
Mum and Bubs

Posted by: Anne Sullivan on 6/24/2013 at 8:05 pm

Great photos and updates! Thank you, it really helps us at home feel more involved, and informed. Great progress and no more sleds. Yea! Glad to hear all are doing well and managing to have a bit of fun too. Message to Steve, love you and missing you, hope you are having a wonderful time.remember, take lots of pictures!

Posted by: Tania K on 6/24/2013 at 1:33 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Update

June 23, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Summit! The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by JJ Justman and Kel Rossiter stood on top just after 7:15 a.m. Snow and sometimes rain was falling on the summit and the teams are currently in a mountain cloud cap. Both teams recharged and refueled in the summit crater before starting their descent at 8:25. Although precipitation was falling, the guides reported pleasant climbing conditions and an excellent route. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

A big congrats Gautam!Gritty G! Proud of you.

Posted by: Bhaktha on 6/29/2013 at 9:16 am

Congratulations Gautam!!

Posted by: Mahadev on 6/26/2013 at 9:40 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Carry Heavy Loads to 9,600’ Camp

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Greetings from Pete, Geoff, Robby and Team, Under cool temperatures and partly sunny skies, we moved uphill again this morning from our camp at 7,600' to 9,600'. The slopes of Ski Hill offered up our first significant climb of the expedition given our full loads weighing down our packs and our sleds. After building camp at 9,600', we continued to lighten our loads and fill our bellies by feasting on soups and Tasty Bite delicacies, followed by some hot beverages and storytelling. Our team is feeling strong and weather looks accommodating for a move to 11,000' camp tomorrow morning, where we'll finally post up for some rest and acclimatization. RMI Guides Robby, Pete, and Geoff

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Aloha Gail,
IMUA, from Kihei Charter.
We are thinking of you and the entire team.
Safe climbing.
Aloha
Gene

Posted by: Gene on 6/26/2013 at 3:35 am

Guapo,
met someone this morning who has also climbed Rainer, and a few others;is climbing Denali in 2015 with his dad and brother. I got his name for you, he’d like to meet you!
I see you have a team member from Kihei!....I bet you wish you were feeling those temps instead, but the views where you are now? They really outshine Kihei!
We miss you and are following your progress. Lots of cheering coming from Facebook
Have a great climb tomorrow
Guapa

Posted by: marion on 6/23/2013 at 8:10 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 16,600’

June 23, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Movin' on up! We woke up early and set out to cache some gear up high. Even though the sun was not on us, we thought it was warm for 14k camp. We were wrong. As we set out towards the fixed ropes that allow us to climb the steep face up to 16,000 ft safely, a cold wind picked up and made us cold...like Denali cold! I think we needed it because we were getting a bit spoiled. Once we gained the ridge, we were out of the wind and in the sun and immediately life was better. We decided to make a cache a around 16,600' under a prominent rock feature called Washburn's Thumb. We cached some food and fuel for when we head up to our last camp at 17,000' in a couple of days. I was really impressed at how everyone did at the altitude and on the fixed lines. Go team! Rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lance’s little ones are off camping with the dinosaurs the next 3 days . BUt we will be thinking about you all and wish you warmer wind and fantastic next few days

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/24/2013 at 6:30 pm

Enjoy your day off, but I am sure you will find something to pass the time. This team likes to stay busy it seems. Tell Q the Bruins are at home tonight for game 6. They trail 3 to 2. Should be a great game 7 this week. Go Bruins!!

Posted by: George on 6/24/2013 at 5:05 am

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Returns from Cayambe Climb

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 25th Update

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Move to 17K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day

On The Map

Mountaineering Training | Climber’s Perspective on Training for Rainier

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Settle into 11K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Update

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Carry Heavy Loads to 9,600’ Camp

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 16,600’

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