RMI Expeditions Blog

Ecuador Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Prepare for Cotopaxi Summit

January 16, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 16,000'

The time spent relaxing at Chilcabamba was wonderful but like all good things came to an end. Fortunately for us, there will be more excitement to come as our adventure continues. We are about to make our move up to the Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi (over 16,000') where we hope to get a little nap in before launching for the summit very early tomorrow morning. The weather pattern has been promising and with a little luck we will all be taking hero pics and exchanging high fives on the summit! But we're not counting our chickens before the eggs hatch, Cotopaxi is a big mountain and deserves respect. Wish us luck! More on the alpine escapades of this intrepid group as our program continues... Stay with us! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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OOOhhhhh!! AAHHHHHH!!! May the Force Be With You! We’ll watch for Pix tomorrow!

Posted by: Deb on 1/17/2013 at 9:41 am

Best wishes as you venture on!
-Geoff

Posted by: Geoff on 1/16/2013 at 9:44 am

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Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team Summit Ixta!

January 16, 2013

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 17,340'

6:21 a.m. from the summit of Ixtaccihuatl: Hey this is Seth calling from the top of Ixta. I am up here with everybody. There is very little wind and it was a smooth climb. The team is taking a bunch of photos and enjoying the views. You can see all of the volcanoes today: Nevado de Toluca, Pico de Orizaba, La Malinche, Sierra Negra…and Popo is also out. It is a beautiful cloudless day with no wind. [lots of background cheering from the team] We will check in again from high camp later today. Congratulations Team! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Quite a day!! The extended family is following.. every one is psyched for the team!
Congratulations!!!

Posted by: Laura on 1/16/2013 at 4:52 pm

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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Rest at Chilcabama

January 15, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Whew! After several strenuous days, the team has been relaxing at Chilcabama, a traditional Ecuadorian farmhouse. The surrounding countryside is beautiful, with a knockout view of Cotopaxi. Our day has been spent on exploratory walks, extensive eating, pestering the resident llama, and gazing at Cotopaxi through the hotel's spyglass. Tomorrow we head up to the Cotopaxi hut for our next summit bid. Wish us luck! RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Katie Bono & Team

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Hi Mike and Kendra! Can’t wait to see all your pics and hear about your adventures. Be careful and enjoy! Aunt Linda

Posted by: Linda Grimes on 1/16/2013 at 2:30 pm

I also am glad to know you’re all safe and that you had a successful summit. Can’t wait to see the pictures. Have fun and come home safely.

Posted by: Cheryl on 1/16/2013 at 6:00 am

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Ecuador Seminar: Go With the Flow

January 15, 2013

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Yesterday we drove five hours south of Quito to Ecuador's highest mountain, Chimborazo. News from other local guides provided mixed information. We heard there was a bit of new snow on the route which contrary to popular belief actually makes the route safer. What we found was nothing of the sort. For many years the north side of Chimborazo has been melting making rockfall an increasing concern. Having a bad gut feeling I could not ignore, I spoke with the other guides and we decided climbing up with ten other climbers ahead of us was too risky on a route with substantial rock fall hazard. During the night two team members began having diarrhea and a guide threw up. I took this as a sign and began to reevaluate the situation. Over breakfast the guides laid out an alternative mountain that we felt would have a much better chance of success given the teams health and über challenging route on Chimborazo. A discussion was held and a difficult but good decision was made to abandon Chimborazo and go to Illiniza Sur. This will be a more technically challenging but safer and shorter climb. We are all a bit bummed to not be giving our main objective a shot but also psyched we are all still together. We leave the hostel tonight at eleven and will send word of the climb tomorrow. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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We are all watching your precarious adventures biting our nails from the coffee shop in Los Angeles. Worried sick that Clark will get a blister or lose his beauty sleep (he can’t afford to!). He said he was tired of walking the dog everyday but don’t you think this is a bit extreme, Clark?
Wishing you all safe passage home!
XO, from all of us here at sea level

Posted by: Ted Craig CJ on 1/16/2013 at 3:29 pm

Sorry to hear about the hardships but I had to go back to work today and that’s no fun either…haha I hope everyone feels better and you can all end the trip on a high note.

Posted by: Albert on 1/15/2013 at 3:33 pm

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Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team Ready for Ixta Summit Bid

January 15, 2013

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 14,750'

Hello from high camp on Ixta! Everyone did great today, the tents are up and I'm about to start cooking dinner. This morning we got up at 6:30 and had bacon and eggs for breakfast. After packing our gear we got a ride from our driver to La Joya, which is where the trail starts. It took us five hours to reach high camp with the big packs but we have plenty of time to relax before we go to the summit. Hopefully the next time I check in we'll be standing on top of Ixta! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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You’re making me tear up, Seth!
Soo thrilled!

Posted by: Laura on 1/16/2013 at 8:31 am

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Camp 2 Rest Day Gives Time for Reflection

January 15, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

We woke on our rest say today to another beautiful morning on the Stone Sentinel, feeling good at our Camp 2 altitude of 18,200'. Although clouds have slowly built and a light snow is falling, team morale is high and the collective attitude is positive and charged with anticipation of the move to come. Everyone continues to climb well, and we're all taking care to eat and drink enough for the hard days ahead. Rest days give time to think, and something that always comes to mind is the total experience of mountain climbing. A big part of that experience is being present in the moment, finding the rhythm of walking and breathing, seeing the splendor of nature all around and being able to appreciate it without the distractions that are all too present in most of the world. The team is definitely embracing the moment, soaking up the beauty and enjoying the journey through this high and wild place. While occasional thoughts may jump forward and higher to the summit of South America, we are perfectly content to enjoy a cup of coffee and the company of friends new and old on this well-earned rest day. Keep us in your thoughts as we push higher and higher the next few days. The weather looks promising, the team is strong, and we look forward to the challenge ahead! RMI Guides JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens and the Aconcagua team

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Hey Mike McHugh, what a beautiful and rare experience you are having. I look forward to talking with you about this climb when you return. Love, Uncle Mel

Posted by: Mel Schroeder on 1/16/2013 at 3:43 am

WOW

WOW Greg B you’re just about there. Have a good climb. Sure enjoy the daily comments and great pix. Makes a person almost wish we were there too. Wishing everyone success. Be safe. mom and dad

Posted by: Dawn on 1/15/2013 at 6:33 pm

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Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team at Altzimoni Hut on Ixta

January 14, 2013

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 12,000'

We're on Ixta! Well we're actually at the Altzimoni Hut but we did get up to 14,600' on Ixta today. That means we set new altitude records for the whole team. That's always cool. The day started with an 8 am pick up from La Malinche. Our fantastic driver, Rogelio, took us to the best breakfast in Mexico at the Hotel Mission Tlaxcala. Very nice. Then we hit the market in the town of Amecameca for some last minute food and water before driving to the Altzimoni Hut. After dropping our gear we set out for a hike. We took the same route that we will follow tomorrow and I dropped some water at our high point. We'll pick that up on the way through on our way to high camp and I'll check in again from there. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

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Congratulations Team El Futbol!
Gorgeous photos!
Dave..the SVA letter came.. all set!
Adios Amigos!

Posted by: Laura on 1/15/2013 at 6:49 am

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Summit Cayambe!

January 14, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 18,997'

Our preparations for high altitude complete, the team awoke a few minutes after midnight on Monday morning for our summit bid on Cayambe. The sky was cloudy, but calm- a hopeful sign given the hail and rain the afternoon prior. The first hour of climbing found us negotiating a long rocky stretch in big mountain boots. We transitioned to snowy slopes and the group moved steadily uphill in high spirits as the clouds gave way to a clear and starry night. At a break at ~17k, we caught the sunrise, as well as a glimpse of three climbers high up on the mountain. Several of us were amazed at the steepness of the slope they were ascending, only to discover shortly thereafter that that would be our route, as well! However, our group was more than up to the task, and everyone summitted after 7.5 hours en route. The weather on top was flawless(!), so we lounged around and took hero shots for an hour before heading down. The steep section was just as exciting on the descent, but the remainder of the route was easily accomplished by our crew. After arriving at the refugio, we quickly packed up our gear and hightailed it down the mountain to get to some food! Unfortunately, hightailing it only works so well when you have 36k of rough road and 6000' to descend! After eating, everyone was looking forward to seeing our lodging at Chilcabama. However, the travel gods felt differently, and the expected transit time stretched out longer and longer, as first rain (on our duffels on top of the van), then traffic, the construction, and finally dark, unmarked roads had their way with us. Finally, we arrived to Chilcabama, where hot showers, freshly-made soup, and fires in our in-room fireplaces awaited us. It was the perfect end to a very long day. Pictures to come pending wifi access! RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Katie Bono and Team

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Wow, I can’t even imagine these adventures. Hope all is well. Kendra, I can’t wait to hear about your experiences. Mike, I hope it is all you have dreamed it would be and then some.We cant wait to see pictures! Be safe,Debbie

Posted by: Debbie on 1/16/2013 at 4:24 pm

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Ecuador Seminar: Team Readies for Chimborazo Summit Bid

January 14, 2013

Posted by: Casey Grom, Adam Knoff

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 16,400'

Hello everyone. The team has traveled south and we have arrived at our last climbing objective, Chimborazo. It took us about five hours to drive here from Quito. This is the biggest mountain here in Ecuador and it stands proud at 20,700'. We have currently just downed our dinner and are getting ready for bed. Everyone is doing well and ready to climb so we can return home to our loved ones. I'm keeping it short as we will be getting up early for this one. We'll update tomorrow. RMI Guides Casey Grom, Adam Knoff and crew

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt,
We’re thinking of you and your team and praying that you all stay safe.
Love,
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Polly and Ed on 1/15/2013 at 7:17 am

Have a safe and rewarding climb.

Posted by: Albert on 1/14/2013 at 8:52 pm

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Mountaineering Training | The Triangle of Training Success

January 14, 2013

Posted by:

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

With the start of the a new year now is a good time to step back and take account of your training plan. Training for any sport requires a balance of different activities. Too much of one type of training can lead to over-stressing our bodies; too many different activities can lead to a dilution of focus. While a mountaineering training program will include many facets, it is important to never lose sight of the critical elements: 1. Aerobic Endurance Training: Longer sessions to increase the ability to go for a long time at a steady pace. This builds your training base. 2. Anaerobic Endurance: Shorter intense sessions to increase the ability to go for a short time at higher intensity. This gives you the range of exertion to accommodate different paces and exertion levels. 3. Strength Training: The ability of the muscles to support the pack weight, movement over challenging terrain and other tasks such as digging snow or performing an ice-axe arrest. These are the “meat and potatoes” of preparation for mountaineering. Try to make sure you are exercising all three on a weekly basis. - John Colver John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!

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RMI Expeditions Blog

Ecuador Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Prepare for Cotopaxi Summit

On The Map

Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team Summit Ixta!

On The Map

Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Rest at Chilcabama

Ecuador Seminar: Go With the Flow

Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team Ready for Ixta Summit Bid

On The Map

Aconcagua: Justman & Team Camp 2 Rest Day Gives Time for Reflection

On The Map

Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team at Altzimoni Hut on Ixta

On The Map

Ecuador Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Summit Cayambe!

On The Map

Ecuador Seminar: Team Readies for Chimborazo Summit Bid

Mountaineering Training | The Triangle of Training Success

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