RMI Expeditions Blog
Hola from Quito Ecuador,
Today began with two guides, three brothers and five individuals coming together for the first time for the
Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador. Most climbers flying into Quito arrive around midnight and don't get to the hotel until after 1am. With an 8 am orientation and team introduction, we were blessed to have a hearty breakfast, strong coffee and warm sunshine to get the guys awake. I can say guys because we are a team with no females. From past experience I can say it is usually helpful to have at least one lady keeping the men in check but judging from our first eight hours together, I have a gut feeling we should be generally well behaved.
After our breakfast and intro the team packed up in Angel's mini bus for a splendid three hour tour of some of Quito's main attractions.
First we visited the "Mitad Del Mundo" or Middle of the World, where we stood on the actual equator. Here we observed visual confirmation of the Coriolis effect, balanced an egg on a nail and watched as gravity played tricks on both our minds and bodies. I would like to say we also saw aliens zipping overhead time travel portals open but unfortunately that happened last week.
After we left the center of the earth, we headed into old town Quito where we visited a giant statue of the Virgin Mary, a three hundred year old Cathedral and the Presidential Palace. Having felt let down by absent aliens on the equator I was hoping for a brief chat with Rafael Correal, the country's President, as a consolation prize but we were told he was too busy. Go figure.....
After the tour we had a nice lunch, nap and gear check. All in all a pretty full day. Stay turned for tomorrow's dispatch because we will be climbing a mountain higher than any team member has climbed before!
Wishing everyone well back home.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team Ecuador
The team is resting today at
Plaza Argentina which is helping them acclimate for our climb. Most reported that they slept the best thus far, 30ish miles of walking will do that I guess.
Goals for the day included eating a fresh breakfast, sorting gear, doing some laundry, taking a hike and eating pizza, not to bad at 13,600'.
Their hike went out into a valley where Cerro Ibanez looms. The rocks and soil are an amazing crimson color and one gets the feeling like they could easily be on Mars.
Tomorrow we will carry gear and food to Camp 1 and make our first cache. Until then we are trying to stay out of the wind and sun.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
After two long days trekking through the Vacas Valley we rode mules across the river and our trail turned uphill into the Relinchos Valley as we gained 3000'+ to arrive at
Base Camp on Aconcagua. The Team was surprised at the amenities offered at Plaza Argentina including refreshments, Internet hotspots, showers and perhaps the biggest hit, plastic chairs to relax in.
These long expeditions don't have to be all pain and suffering, the early pioneers suffered plenty for all of us. We will take the remainder of the day to rest and re-hydrate after the hot & dusty trek. Some of the Team have showered and some are waiting for our 1st rest day on Tuesday. From here the trek is over and the climb begins, with preparing gear and group loads to carry to Camp 1.
A consistent comment from everyone is just how blue the sky is in contrast with the multicolored rock bands that form this section of the Andes. It looks like the ridge lines have been cut with an exacto knife.
We will check in on the rest day but for now everyone sends their best to friends and loved ones back home.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
The team is currently resting in the sweat lodges that are their tents. This camp is known for its windy conditions and without steep ridges and peaks to block the sun, escaping the wind means roasting like a Kenny Roger's chicken.
As we continue the trek to Base Camp the size of this valley only grows as the Vacas River gets closer to it's source.
After seeing
Aconcagua for the first time today, everyone is looking forward to the cold temperatures at Base Camp.  Tomorrow we finish the trek, here's to calm winds and strong backs for the team.
RMI Guide Mike King
While we won't make it until the Ball drops tonight, we will have a nice dinner and do a little celebrating with the mule drivers. Our
Aconcagua Team has arrived in camp after a hot day hiking with a nice breeze that made the heat tolerable. This first day is a lesson in patience. Picture walking six hours in the high desert covered in softballs. If your thinking, "not ideal" you'd be right, but this is our approach trail and our aching feet took a backseat to watching condors soar high above the neighboring Andean peaks.
The team is resting and rehydrating and wishes everyone back home a 'Feliz Anio Nuevo"!
RMI Guide Mike King
Our last night at Las Lenas we didn't use tents. After our asado we simply rolled pads out onto the ground and spent the night under the stars as they say. With the moon unable to be seen that night the star show was one of the best I've seen. The next morning we trekked the last four hours out of the Vacas Valley back to Los Penitentes. We meet the second
RMI Expedition lead by Mike King and JM Gorum getting their gear prepared for the walk into the Vacas Valley the following day. We stopped at the Estancia de Elias and ordered 40 Empanadas to go for the remainder of our drive back to Mendoza. Once we arrived to the hotel we all split, took the famed first shower after a long expedition and met in the hotel lobby at 8:30 to walk to dinner. We made reservations at a famous Italian restaurant in the city called Francesco's. The owner of the establishment Maria Teresa, pushing into her 90's still works at the restaurant making pasta from scratch. We all enjoyed a magnificent dinner and celebrated a wonderful and safe trip into the heart of the Andes and the
roof of South America. This will be the last blog of the trip. Thanks to everyone for following along. We had an amazing group of climbers and I look forward to hopefully climbing with all of them again in the future. Muchas Gracias, hasta luego!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
This is Mike King with the RMI December 28th
Aconcagua Expedition. We are currently in Penitentes relaxing and waiting for dinner to start. Everyone arrived with all their gear and the Team has already begun to bond and been cranking through tasks to get ready for the 3 day trek to Plaza Argentina. We have clear skies and hot weather in the forecast. This will be a short dispatch as we are at the hotel with wifi, so contact your loved ones here in Argentina and wish them a 'happy New Years and safe & successful climb'.
We won't be envious of your Seacrest-Times Square Ball Drop show since we'll be celebrating out under the most spectacular night sky ever taken in with authentic Argentine cowboys cooking the most delicious steaks anyone has had the pleasure of eating.
The Camp at Lenas is notorious for not allowing satellite phone coverage so if you do not see a dispatch, do not fret. Know that the group is well and currently experiencing the 'meat sweats' which can translate into 'meatmares' at bedtime. Check back for more great stories from Aconcagua.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
This morning we woke before the sun hit basecamp, had a simple breakfast of oatmeal and prepared our duffels once again to survive the journey on the back of a pack animal. The trek to
Las Leñas is a long one, taking around seven hours, most of which is in a hot, shadeless landscape. Upon our arrival we took a few minutes to arrange an area to sleep and then gathered around the fire the Arrieros prepared to cook our asado for the evening. We enjoyed carne and vegetables cooked over open flame along with a few bottles of Malbec that we had carried in to celebrate the trip. Tomorrow, four hours of trekking brings us out of the Vacas Valley and back to Los Penitentes where we will meet our transfer back to Mendoza!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
A little snow was falling after dinner last night but this morning the skies were clear. We began
breaking down camp and enjoying our last views from 18,000 ft. The team was excited for the thicker air of basecamp at 14,000ft. Thicker air at 14,000ft!!?? Well acclimatized after a long expedition the air at 14,000ft feels like we're at sea level as it's nice to finally be able to fill the lungs each breathe. Our decent went smooth without any hiccups and we were welcomed at Base Camp with sweet bread and juice by our staff. The team spent the afternoon reminiscing and revisiting memories of our trip. After a big dinner we were all ready for bed. Tomorrow we make the long trek back down the Vacas Valley to our first camp of the entire trip, Las Lénas, where we'll enjoy a carne asado prepared by our Arrieros and a night under the stars.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
The team is all back at
Camp II safe and sound. Today was a very demanding day. I was up at 2am this morning checking the weather and temperature every 30 minutes looking for clear skies and moderate temperatures. I woke the team up at 4:30am. An hour later we were off on our way. Attempting a summit from Camp II is an extremely ambitious endeavor and the pace needed to be kept in order to be successful would daunt even the fittest of athletes. We gave it our best try and despite valiant efforts our pace fell short of what was needed to climb safely. On top of that the recent wind and snow events created steep, firm slopes of wind deposited snow. Imagine a 6,000ft+ snow slide at 45 degrees. We encountered these slopes at roughly 21,500ft and decided the risk was not worth the reward! All in all a tough day, mentally and physically. But that's exactly why we take on adventures like these, to test ourselves mentally and physically. To me, any expedition that returns with climbers safe and sound is a success for me. You get used to days like this the longer your mountaineering career. It's important to remember that the substance of experience lies in the in betweens, not the ends. A lesson that us climbers have to learn quickly! We'll spend one more night here at Camp II then descend to basecamp tomorrow to get organized for our trek out of the Vacas Valley. We'll post a couple more blogs during our descent. As always thanks for following! What a wild ride it's been!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
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Darlene shared your photos and it looks gorgeous. I’ve been to Quito. Got bad case of food poisoning at a hotel there. Denny’s niece lived and worked there ten years and is married to a handsome Equidorian. Good climbing!
Posted by: Mary Jane stiles on 1/8/2017 at 2:38 pm
Sounds like you are having a terrific time, stay safe and have fun
Posted by: Darlene on 1/7/2017 at 10:31 am
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